I ask because I'm down to a decision between the GT system from Varizoom and the Pilot. I like the design of the Pilot better, but since I'm in DV nowhere land and can't touchy feely, I need to rely on what I can read.

My cams are the Z1u and the V1u. Thanks in advance for info you can provide.

Mine's due soon, possibly by the end of next week. I'll put up some impressions after I've had a chance to work with it a bit.

The manual has also just been posted on Tiffen's site if you haven't seen it yet. It's at:

http://www.steadicam.com/pilot.html

It shows a lot more about some of the many adjustable settings in particular, which I found very impressive.

Mikko Wilson is probaly one of the most knowledgeable people on it here. If he doesn't pick up on this thread soon you might try PMing him about it.

Thanks Ted. I'll throw at DV tape at him or something.

The Pilot is the best system in its weight class, hands down. The arm is untouchable by any other manufacturer, and the adjustability and ability to increase inertia by adding the little Merlin weights to the ends of the sled is great.

I'm very enthusiastic about the Pilot, more so than the Flyer which was my previous favorite in this group of stabilizers. It flies like a perfectly scaled version of my big rig.

*picks up the DV tape from the floor as he rubs the small bump on his head* ... You could have at least used MiniDV! :)


I share Charles's sentiments on the Pilot .. and no, the Varizoom's don't even come close, not by a long shot!

I'll leave the general reviews of the production units to those who own them (and I wish I had the spare money for one to be honest) ... though I'll of course be happy to answer any questions about it.

- Mikko

I see in the manual that one can mount weights fore and aft on the top stage, which will greatly help with those flying little bitty cameras. Those were missing on the prototype but I'm pleased to see that they have been incorporated into the production model--don't think I can take credit for that but it was something I brought to their attention.

Charles,
Yup, threaded holes fore and after on the stage for weights. Very slick.

On the flip side, you can't screw then into the bottom of the post like the prototype. But the ends of the base alone is brilliant! Add the stage spots and it's VERY flexible.


- Mikko

Ive had my Pilot for a little bit now. hehe, even customer service had been surprised a had one when I called them about a bad AB mount.
When I got mine, I didnt yet have my Anton Bauer batteries, so i ran it without power to the lcd screen, just weighted. wroked great even in that setup. three of the the people involved in the shoot were all "artists", meaning film school students, who turned up their nose at the sight of it. A strange elitist attitude i did not expect or understand. within 3 hours of shooting, two or them (actors in this piece) were asking to try on the rig. By the time they viewed the final vut they were talking about the use of the pilot in the shoot with pride, as if it was their own idea. I loved it.
Had to send it in for repair once i got my batteries, as i had to power and the mount heated up within 2 min of the battery being on. They fixed it and had it sent back FAST. VERY helpful customer service. I have seen someone else post about getting instructional vhs with the unit, I only got a 3 page printout that was tough to get through. Once I had run the balancing procedures a few times though, it all made sense. Downside; Instructions contained no info on how to power the camera via sled or what to do with the power cord with nothing on the other end.
Now Ive got the battery on, and the Pilots lcd screen is a SUPER help for focus on the JVC HD-110u, aside from the fact that I can now run the rig on the proper side of my body-much easier on the back. before i had to try to see the flip lcd screen on the side of the camera, creating an akward position.
My JVC with AB mount is hitting about 8 1/4 pound, and though I need to re-balance it, I currently run all my weights off the front end f the sled. I still need to add the powertap-4pinXLR plate that will run cam power off the sled, but I think that will make the whole set right at 10 lbs. the telescoping post allows even the high weight cameras to have some distance from the gimbal. handy.
My first concern during the shoot was the director's wish to do stationary shots with the steadi. Even standing still without motion, breathing can transfer into the camera creating a constant shifting. During filming and on review i found it very obvious and distracting, but after cutting it together the static stuff worked as well as the dynamic movements. As inexperienced with the rig as I am, it felt more like watching scenes from Battlestar Galactica (intended, stylistic motion during Steadi shots) than the low end junk I though I had. Even walking backwards over an uneven dirt trail that curved, ladden with doggie land mines (I think I hit them all while recording) I managed usable material. This of course was before i saw someone walking forward with one aimed backwards past their shoulder.... DOH!
Well, there's my personal experience info. Judgement; 4000 VERY WELL SPENT. this is going to offer a quality and artistry to my work that most others in town have no interest in achieving.

Charles, i dont believe they have holes on the top stage. i will double check when I get back to the office, but I think only the bottom has the weight holes. to my memory the top stage is taken up with the dovetail plate, minute adjustment knobs, and a video in on front and power out on back. Again, i MAY be mistaken

Damon,
nice review from real world action.

Perhaps as you get more familiar and do more real shooting you can continue your observations.

It's on my 2008 list of things to get (along with a 'few' other things) :-O
Don

I still need to add the powertap-4pinXLR plate that will run cam power off the sled, but I think that will make the whole set right at 10 lbs. the telescoping post allows even the high weight cameras to have some distance from the gimbal. handy.

Powertap to 4-pin XLR will be a cable, weight just a few ounces I'm sure. However you will need a stepdown from 12 to 7.2v to power your camera, I don't believe Tiffen is offering one but companies like Dolgin and Anton Bauer themselves do.


My first concern during the shoot was the director's wish to do stationary shots with the steadi. Even standing still without motion, breathing can transfer into the camera creating a constant shifting. During filming and on review i found it very obvious and distracting, but after cutting it together the static stuff worked as well as the dynamic movements.

Possible, but more likely the movement you are seeing is coming through your hands than breathing/chest moving/vest/arm.


Even walking backwards over an uneven dirt trail that curved, ladden with doggie land mines (I think I hit them all while recording) I managed usable material. This of course was before i saw someone walking forward with one aimed backwards past their shoulder.... DOH!

That's the Don Juan position, helpful for certain things but usually used as a last resort for most operators due to the fact that you can't easily see the actors and the monitor at the same time.

Charles, i dont believe they have holes on the top stage.

According to the manual linked in the first post, they do...definitely check to make sure you don't have a pre-release top stage!

You were right Charles. Mine is definately a different piece than is in the tech specs. The two page brochure however, has the plate that i have, without "end caps" to it, just sides. I think i will give them a call. Glad this was discussed, otherwise I'd have never known.

I'd like to ask anyone with experience in both the Pilot and Merlin(+armand vest) systems, which one would you recommend.

I could see the pilot being slightly more capable as a pure steadicam with it's LCD. But the versitility of being able to take the merlin off and fly hand-held is also appealing.

It occurs to me that Indicam's stabilizer is also known as the Pilot, a name that the company's owner, Terry Thompson, who is a very nice man (I spoke to him at great length about it when I was trying to decide what to buy), evidently chose for his design before Steadicam did. I find myself wishing that with respect to Terry, the name of this thread had been specified as referring to the Steadicam Pilot. There are probably other threads that this applies to as well.

Not to be blaming anyone, and it's probably too late to change it, but I feel it's unfortunate that Terry's product is being more or less marginalized by the simple reference to the Steadicam product as "The Pilot".

I hate to see that happen to such a nice guy who's made such a fine product at a very fair price.

I chose to buy a Steadicam Pilot, but had my budget restraints been just a little further south I'd be an owner of an Indicam Pilot right now, and I bet I'd be a very happy one.

I'd like to ask anyone with experience in both the Pilot and Merlin(+armand vest) systems, which one would you recommend.

I could see the pilot being slightly more capable as a pure steadicam with it's LCD. But the versitility of being able to take the merlin off and fly hand-held is also appealing.

I haven't got my Steadicam Pilot yet, but I think the main differences are, as you mentioned, the ability of the Merlin to be detached and used hand-held, the Pilot's LCD, and perhaps most significantly, its payload capacity (10 lbs for the Pilot vs 7 for the Merlin with its upgraded gimbal). The Merlin also enjoys a hefty price advantage ($2600 vs $3800 at B&H).

The vest and arm are the same in both cases, so those are really the only differences.

Mikko Wilson (geez...I'm starting to feel like his agent, I refer/defer to him so often...) has used both, and can give you more of the hands-on story.

Well, thanks. I'm trying to choose between the Varizoom and the Pilot. I may have a chance to try on some before the years out, but based on all I am reading, I'm leaning towards the Pilot. I hope production kicks up though, hate to wait a couple of months.

Well I know what you mean by "hate to wait a couple of months" , as I placed an order with Calumet for a Merlin+arm and vest back in October and never heard a thing. On a brighter note, B&H has them in stock and shipped me one the same day.

Well I know what you mean by "hate to wait a couple of months" , as I placed an order with Calumet for a Merlin+arm and vest back in October and never heard a thing. On a brighter note, B&H has them in stock and shipped me one the same day.

B&H also has the Steadicam Pilot in stock, in all three battery versions (AA, Anton Bauer and V-Mount) for $3800.

I spoke with Steadicam yesterday and learned I'll need to pick up the battery for what ever version I might purchase. I seams that the AB battery's with quick charger is going to run me around 900.00 bucks. Hows that for an 'addon' hehe. I couldn't see buying 9 AA's each time. That's a little crazy. I'm wondering if I could get a battery that would run the new Frezzi light I'm going to buy?

Steven,
if you're getting a Frezzi then get it with the Power Tap connection that way whether you use ABs or IDX batteies you'll be able to power it right off the mounting plate. there's a power tap recepticle on them.
Be aware though that you'll need at least 2 batteries regardless of which you choose.
The Pilot look's as though it balances out with the AB Dionic 90s (great batteries) or the IDX7 battery which is 71W so a light pulling 35 wats will only give you 2 hours which may seem like enough but 'what if'... the ABs are of course 90W and again it's the old 'what if' thing. Don't forget the charger also. A 2 battey AB charger is about $600 and the IDX charger is about the same.
I agree the AA system is fine if all you want to do is power the LCD but if you're looking to power a light (and even the camera with the power converter AB has) then you need real batteries.
Don

Since you are already looking at their light, you might want to look at purchasing a package deal from Frezzi, who also make batteries and have a 100wh Li-Io battery that comes in either AB mount or V-Lock:

http://www.frezzi.com/lithium-ion_camera_power_&_lighting_packages.htm

It may seem like a harsh step to have to invest into pro batteries with their associated cost, but once you are set up powering everything off a single battery, your life gets MUCH easier. Having to keep track of multiple batteries running various components greatly increases the chances of having something go down on you at the wrong moment, particularly nasty if there is a once-in-a-lifetime event going on in front of the camera.

It would be nice if there was a 3rd party interested in making dummy battery modules with the stepdown to 7.2v inside, I know Tiffen has no interest in it and the other existing solutions are bulky. The Dolgin box appears to work well but it would be a pain to have to mount it up on the top stage somewhere.

This is the package the dude at Frezz talked me into, I may have to figure out some more stuff. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/403383-REG/Frezzolini_91603_MRFKIC_U_Micro_Fill_Dimmer.html

Just trying to figure out my master plan.

I would probably want to at least power the light if that is something that is possible. The light on the kit above is about 1.5 lbs so the weight is not too much. I was just thinking when I was putting this kit together that, hey, it would be neato, keen, rad, dynomite if I could kill two birds with one stone.

Steven,
if you're getting a Frezzi then get it with the Power Tap connection that way whether you use ABs or IDX batteies you'll be able to power it right off the mounting plate. there's a power tap recepticle on them.
Be aware though that you'll need at least 2 batteries regardless of which you choose.
The Pilot look's as though it balances out with the AB Dionic 90s (great batteries) or the IDX7 battery which is 71W so a light pulling 35 wats will only give you 2 hours which may seem like enough but 'what if'... the ABs are of course 90W and again it's the old 'what if' thing. Don't forget the charger also. A 2 battey AB charger is about $600 and the IDX charger is about the same.
I agree the AA system is fine if all you want to do is power the LCD but if you're looking to power a light (and even the camera with the power converter AB has) then you need real batteries.
Don


Yeah Don, I was going to get at least two batteries, Thanks for the direction. My wife was asking, why don't they just have a universal battery for everthing. At that point I started singing 'We are the World' from the 80s and wanted to know why our cars can't run on human kindness. But that's just a lack of coffee talking.

Get the battery that powers the rig and at least the light, down the road you can always add on the camera power box from Dolgin if you find you need it.

I'm going to Dallas Tx at the end of this month, going to call around and see if I can demo one there. It is time to let the fingers do the calling.

I called Frezzi today and this is what they recommended;


2- FLB-100 100WH 1.9 lbs lithium-ion batteries
1-FLC-2 Dual Channel Simulations charger with auto ac voltage select for worldwide operation
1-MFIC-PT Dimmer Mini Fill with 4 ' PT cable
1-LS-21A Mounting stud with shoe mount to hold dimmer light to camera
1-Custom Adapter 1 Male PT to 2 Female PT connectors for LCD & Light

The kit is a little bit on the high side price wise, but I guess sunshine isn't cheap.

Here is a somewhat cheesy, but very informative clip on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3PgqKF6ugY
Can't wait to get mine.

Here is a somewhat cheesy, but very informative clip on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3PgqKF6ugY
Can't wait to get mine.

LOL! That is hilarious! Thanks for the link Nick!


"While operating the pilot, you may notice that the arm ... is awsome!" HAHAHAHA!!!

- Mikko

But it is awesome -)

Here is a somewhat cheesy, but very informative clip on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3PgqKF6ugY
Can't wait to get mine.

Besides the cheese, it was very informative and quite entertaining. I like the clear illustrations of the basic Steadicam principles. Much better than trying to figure it out based off of a description in a book!

Kind of reminded me of an episode of "Bill Nye: The Science Guy."

I thought it was a great video myself--seeing the effects of various types of balance as an animated clip was surreal, but I think very informative.

I've looked on the Tiffen site for the EFP training DVD that the YouTube clip says is newly released and can't find it. Google didn't help much either. Anyone know where I can buy it? My Steadicam Pilot arrives soon and it would be great to have the DVD.

Thanks

Knowing the regular update speed of the Tiffen website, I'd guess it'll be up there .. oh, next year sometime. Just give them a call and ask them for the link or where to buy it.

- Mikko

LOL! That is hilarious! Thanks for the link Nick!


"While operating the pilot, you may notice that the arm ... is awsome!" HAHAHAHA!!!

- Mikko

Yeah Mikko, Tiffen actually emailed me that link. I laughed a lot when I watched it. Funny stuff.


I did the deed by the way. I ordered it, also ordered that light kit from Frizzi. Time for a new learning curve. Thanks for all the help folks.


Hey Don, I'll be flying through Chicago next Thursday, if I get stuck up there, I'll be knockin on the door.

Steven,
2 things. First with the weather around here it could happen!

Second, you'd have to knock, my door bell hasn't worked in 15 years. I get around to it 1 of these days!
OO
\_/
Don

Just got the pilot yesterday, and apparently I have to get some roadies now, that case is quite the bulky.

As most, I received a VHS tape, actually two of them, and then I looked at my media setup and, well, I'll have to wait to see it. hehe.

My initial impression is that I'm happy with the craftmanship. The location and precision is really nice. The arm is, well AWESOME!!!. Ok that's a joke for those who have seen the youtube video. I'll tinker with it more next week or so.

I was less impressed with the literature. They need to really rethink how it is written. There should also be a 'in the box' list, because I have three holes for weights, but only received two weights. It took me a while to find the screws to attach the camera. And they are tiny, I would see the screw setup as one of the weakest parts of the rig. I mean, if I lose that little screw, well, I'm screwed. I hope to get a couple more screws from steadicam. I've already called steadicam and asked about it. They will call me back with a price list on the screw, hmm...

So, we'll see. I'm happy with it so far, once I get it all rigged up, I hope to do some nature stuff as a part of my training. Thanks again.


And Don, Midway is one of the hottest airports I've ever been in. Man, turn on the AC!. :}

Steven,
I was poking around the Steadicam site and there's a PDF on the assembly and setup of the Pilot. Is the written stuff you got the same? I thought it was pretty good information but then I might be wrong ;-)

BTW, at Midway they probably forgot to open the windows :-O

I actually don't like Midway but frankly the fares are usually a lot less than O'Hare-of course O'hare is 20 minutes from my house and Midway is about an hour. Maybe that's why I don't like Midway as much. :-(

Have fun with the Pilot and never drink before you "fly" it!

OO
\_/

Don

I found the Pilot's instructions to be a bit lacking too. It makes no mention of:

-The purpose of the thin velcro strap that's attached to the upper part of the vest. I've been using (with considerable awkwardness) it to prevent the arm from flapping around when the sled is off. Is that what it's intended for? I've also had some success with trapping the unloaded arm behind my right elbow.

-The purpose of the fabric loop attached to the lower end of the upper arm (I haven't got a clue there).

Also:

-The fact that the operator in the manual is wearing a black shirt which manages to heavily obscure the details of how the likewise black vest is attached seems like a glaring oversight.

-The manual suggests we read the "Dynamic Primer" document on the Steadicam site, but it's not there. I found it elsewhere by googling it.

-The battery compartment retaining clamp (mine's a AA version) is not explained. It took some time to figure out that it's retained by simple bent-metal friction through a wing nut on the side of the compartment, which looks just like the wing nut on the other side of the compartment that locks it onto the sled rail.

-Interesting to note that Steven Davis received two VHS tapes, presumably with tutorials. I received only one DVD, which contains only the informative/humorous "it's awesome" video that's on the site. Useful, but if there's more info on the tapes, I'd sure like to see them.

-What is the mysterious empty compartment in the middle of the backpack for? The Merlin?

-And yes, the "backpack" is huge, with a lot of apparently wasted space. Very secure no doubt, and not a big issue for me, but it would seem that a more compact design might easily be achievable.

-On the other hand, the cutout for the sled forces you to change the position of the battery/monitor rod position to a default, more or less centered spot. It means I can't leave the sled where I balance it for use, so I have to rebalance it more or less from scratch every time. It would seem they could have made the cutout more accomodating there, particularly given the apparently overlarge space it already contains.

BUT....enough whining...

I LOVE THE DARN THING ANYWAY!!!

It's a *superb* piece of gear, hands down. I'm gaining skill with it quickly, and the good aspects (smoothness, multi-adjustability, and the overall sense of quality, refinement and design maturity) far outweigh my little list of quibbles above. Way far...

-The purpose of the thin velcro strap that's attached to the upper part of the vest. I've been using (with considerable awkwardness) it to prevent the arm from flapping around when the sled is off. Is that what it's intended for? I've also had some success with trapping the unloaded arm behind my right elbow.

Yes, that's what the strap is for. And yes, the elbow trick is also common practice.

-The purpose of the fabric loop attached to the lower end of the upper arm (I haven't got a clue there).

Use it to hang the arm (by the loop) from stand when docked.

-Interesting to note that Steven Davis received two VHS tapes, presumably with tutorials. I received only one DVD, which contains only the informative/humorous "it's awesome" video that's on the site. Useful, but if there's more info on the tapes, I'd sure like to see them.

The 2 VHS tapes where probabaly PAL and NTSC versions of the SK2 training video that was/is also shipped with Flyers. A lot more information on actually operating compared to the "awsome" video which is more of a "this is how it works" type thing.

-What is the mysterious empty compartment in the middle of the backpack for? The Merlin?

Yup.



- Mikko

I didn't even know I was getting a case (insert couldn't touchy feely prior to buying comment here) and I was going to buy a pelican to put it in. I agree, I think the case could have been designed better. I'm a big hard case person, but so be it, I have a case.

And the main part I was missing might still be in the instructions, but I was trying to find the screw to put the camera to the sled, that was annoying finding it.

I haven't looked at the vhs tapes, I'll have to find my vcr. hehe.

I called Tiffen yesterday and spoke to a real nice guy named Mike.

I learned that I didn't get all the manuals I was supposed to get. He's going to check on a solution for me, as well as getting the dvd training video.

I also discussed the need to have my bogen quick release plate work with the rig since in events that I do, I need to switch from rig to rig sometimes, in seconds even. So I'll probably end up going to a machine shop and have them fasion an aluminum block of sorts that will bridge the gap between my bogen quick release mount and the pilot sled. Hmm, wonder how much that will cost.

And yeah, I asked for a few more screws.

Depending on the particular model of Bogen quick release you own, something like this (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/241139-REG/Bogen_Manfrotto_577_577_Quick_Release_Adapter.html) should set you up without having to go to a machinist. Not all of their plates have corresponding dovetail receivers, hopefully yours will.

Depending on the particular model of Bogen quick release you own, something like this (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/241139-REG/Bogen_Manfrotto_577_577_Quick_Release_Adapter.html) should set you up without having to go to a machinist. Not all of their plates have corresponding dovetail receivers, hopefully yours will.


Yeah Charles, I have that, one of the issues with it is the turning of the lock knob. sitting that between a camera and the camera mount for the stablizer isn't going to allow the knob to turn. So I need to get some space between the two.

Ah, got it!

That should be an extremely inexpensive plate to have made, and if you wanted to avoid even that, you could replace the knob with a hex head screw (which would require a tool every time you changed from sticks to Steadicam), or try using fender washers between the quick release and your dovetail plate. While this will make the connection a bit vulnerable to vibration as you are effectively reducing the surface area between the two plates, you can wedge in a bunch of additional washers around the sides (held in with tape as needed) to provide additional support. Not all that sexy, but certainly inexpensive as they can be found at most hardware stores.

Steven
How about a small hex wrench and readjust the position of the locking lever. I had to do that when I set my QR577 on my DVMultiRig.
I don't remember the size but it's small.

Otherwise the QR plate might kind of be hanging up in space.

Don

The Hex wrench sound's inexpensive, and after the price of the pilot, that's music to my ears. I'll have to operate on my fig rig (which has the plate and such) and see how that goes.

I found the Pilot's instructions to be a bit lacking too. It makes no mention of:.

Hey Ted, what cable are you using to connect your camera video out to the pilot's video on on the camera mount? I called BH and they told me to use my Z1's component out, but this leaves me with two dangling unused wires.

Hey Ted, what cable are you using to connect your camera video out to the pilot's video on on the camera mount? I called BH and they told me to use my Z1's component out, but this leaves me with two dangling unused wires.

And a picture that's all red, blue or green, I imagine!

Component is hi-def only and always requires all three cables, so you can't use it with the Pilot's SD monitor. Does the Z1 have a composite output (usually a yellow RCA jack)? That should do the trick.

The HVX200 has one that runs all the time, even when you're shooting HD. So I connected the black RCA cable that came with the Pilot between the camera's composite output and the Pilot stage's input. It's not hi-def of course, but it works fine.

And a picture that's all red, blue or green, I imagine!

Component is hi-def only and always requires all three cables, so you can't use it with the Pilot's SD monitor. Does the Z1 have a composite output (usually a yellow RCA jack)? That should do the trick.

The HVX200 has one that runs all the time, even when you're shooting HD. So I connected the black RCA cable that came with the Pilot between the camera's composite output and the Pilot stage's input. It's not hi-def of course, but it works fine.

Using a single compoenent signal into a composite input would be a B&W image .. the "Y" channel would give you a clean usable B&W picture, the "Cb" or "Cr" channels would give yous something rather unusable. - But the signals themselves are all B&W, only when you combine them in the right way, do you actually get any color.

Component can be SD or HD - depending on the source. For example BETACAM-SP (been around for YEARS as *the* de-facto standard for SD TV production) is an analog compoenent format. Most (all?) of these smaller cameras can output either HD or SD compoenent when in HD mode (and SD compoenent only when in SD mode). In fact, in general it's very rare to find a device that is HD compoenent only and can't be switched to SD compoenent.

The Z1 uses a 4-conductor 3.5mm jack for Composite Video & Stereo Audio output. You need a special cable that comes with the camera that gives you the RCA output (and this will in deed leave you with the audio connectors hanging loose). Note that the composite output isn't active when the component output is in use. - This is also the case for the HVX200 - the Composite output is disabled as soon as you connect a cable to the compoenent output.

- Mikko

Using a single compoenent signal into a composite input would be a B&W image .. the "Y" channel would give you a clean usable B&W picture, the "Cb" or "Cr" channels would give yous something rather unusable. - But the signals themselves are all B&W, only when you combine them in the right way, do you actually get any color.
- Mikko

Mikko, then is it worth my while to get a cable that will patch the output of my component Y, Cb, Cr back into one RCA cable to get the three combined? Or should I just use composite? Thanks for the time. I'm referencing page 52 of the Z1u manual.

Man...you get corrected fast around here : )

Thanks for the info.

No hard feelings I hope Ted. :-)


Steven; no combibing the components into a composite signal requires active processing, it's a bit more than just adapting the wires together.
Just use the composite output.

- Mikko