I found out today is that if you want to lug it around with your or have a small one on your belt you can run the EX1 from a 12v lead acid car or marine battery. A fully charged deep cycle marine 12v battery should run the EX1 for about three months! All you do is cut the lead of of an old transformer (or buy a plug from Tandy/Radio Shack and put alligator/crocodile clips on the other end. You can get small lawn mower 12v batteries that are small enough to carry easily on your belt or in a back pack. This is not a bodged fix or work-around this is hidden deep in the manual if you look hard.

Where in the manual? I don't want to fry my EX1 and say "Well, I read on the internet that I could do it."
Clark

You need as always to make sure that there can be no surges and that it is fused against high current as a precaution. The point is that the power input takes 12v that is commonly available from many battery packs and not some weird amount like 6.8v that some things do. For safety this is what I do. From the 12v battery or power pack I go through the a Belkin ac anywhere box to get 115v out and then I plug the transformer (the Sony charger in this case) into that and then into the camera. That way all the protection and voltage regulators are in place.

A 12V battery is not 12V. Depending on the battery chemistry and state of charge it can be between 10V and 16V. It *might* be OK to run the camera off a different battery connected to the 12V DC input or might not. So far no one seems to have smoked a camera doing it. Your luck mightn't be so good.

The safest approach is to use a DC to DC inverter between the battery and the camera.

What about Tekkeon batteries? Surely they will work as you can set them up to 14 V. Used one with my HVX200 with no problems. Bound to work on an EX1.

http://www.tekkeon.com/site/products-mypowerall.php

Not sure if I am allowed to give a link to the product. If I shouldn't have I apologise.

Powering my EX1 with a 12v Anton Bauer, even though it reads 17 volts output, works fine. Your camera batteries are reading more than 12 volt as well.

See my blog about this @ http://web.mac.com/stevecahill/Steve_Cahills_Blog/Blog/Entries/2008/1/21_Sony_Charger_for_the_EX1_Autopsy.html

If you look at page 108 in the User Guide, it says the DC Low Voltage 1 can be from 11.5 volts to 17.0 volts. This suggests that a battery could be within this range and still be OK.

Many lead acid batteries are around 12.6 volts, so it seems reasonable to say that the voltage isn't too much for the camera. DC low voltage 2 is 11.0 to 14.0 volts. If 14 volts blew the camera due to too high a voltage, why allow a setting of 14.0 volts or 17.0 volts?

I have some 12 volt batteries that just after a charge show around 13.4 volts. However as I use them, the voltage drops slowly until around 11 volts and then starts to drop quickly.

On page 125 in the specifications is says that the camera requires 12 watts of power when recording. 12 volts x 1 amp = 12 watts.

Thus the amp hours of the battery should give you a rough idea for the operating time. For example, 7 amp hours = 7 hours of operation. In truth, it's going to be less, because amp hours measure to 50% of the fully charged voltage. Thus 50% of 12.6 volts = 6.3 volts, way too low for the camera. Depending on the battery, the running time should range from around (amp hours x 0.5) to (amp hours x 0.8).


It would be nice is Sony specified the external power current requirements and the SAFE DC voltage range.



Bob Diaz

If you look at page 108 in the User Guide, it says the DC Low Voltage 1 can be from 11.5 volts to 17.0 volts. This suggests that a battery could be within this range and still be OK.

Many lead acid batteries are around 12.6 volts, so it seems reasonable to say that the voltage isn't too much for the camera. DC low voltage 2 is 11.0 to 14.0 volts. If 14 volts blew the camera due to too high a voltage, why allow a setting of 14.0 volts or 17.0 volts?

I have some 12 volt batteries that just after a charge show around 13.4 volts. However as I use them, the voltage drops slowly until around 11 volts and then starts to drop quickly.

On page 125 in the specifications is says that the camera requires 12 watts of power when recording. 12 volts x 1 amp = 12 watts.

Thus the amp hours of the battery should give you a rough idea for the operating time. For example, 7 amp hours = 7 hours of operation. In truth, it's going to be less, because amp hours measure to 50% of the fully charged voltage. Thus 50% of 12.6 volts = 6.3 volts, way too low for the camera. Depending on the battery, the running time should range from around (amp hours x 0.5) to (amp hours x 0.8).


It would be nice is Sony specified the external power current requirements and the SAFE DC voltage range.



Bob Diaz

This is pretty much the same operating range than full size cameras (Betacams and the like). In the manual of my old Betacam, the input voltage can be anywhere in the range from 11 to 17 volts, so you can power it with a variety of sources like the (then) standard NP-1B Ni-Cd battery packs (12 V), a Li-Ion brick (14.4 V), a Ni-Cd battery belt (13.2 V), a lead-acid motorbike battery (12 V, cheap, big and heavy!).

The only matter about this is if the 12 V DC input of the camera is self regulated, as is the 4-pin XLR of full size cameras. If it is, then you can plug in a battery in the range of 12 to 14.4 volts safely. If not... well, those who have made the experiment probably would had fried their cameras in just a few minutes.

That said, keep in mind that most of the circuits in the camera don't operate at 12 volts! Everything in this camera is digital electronics (apart from the motors of the lens), and all integrated and digital circuits are probably operated at 5 V or 3.3 V, maybe even less, in order to avoid overheating and to reduce power consumption. So there must be a power regulator between the 12 V input and the electronics in order to feed all those delicate and expensive circuits with a completely stable DC.

PS: Bob, I think what these Low Voltage settings mean is to tell the camera at what voltage she must start to worry for the battery being empty (and tell it to you). As there are a lot of battery types you can plug into, you must tell her what voltage is effectively a "low voltage". For example, when I used NP-1B batteries on my Betacam the Low Voltage alarm triggered up at 11.3 V, when the battery was at about 10% of his charge. But if I used a 13.2 NiCd belt, the correct Low Voltage alarm should be set to 12.4 volts in order to be triggered at the same 10% of charge. Also note that the voltage relative to the charge depends on the kind of battery (Ni-Cd, Ni-MH, Li-Ion, lead acid, etc.).

Hi David,

While the manual does not directly say, an external DC voltage of 17 volts is OK, I used the low voltage settings as a way to infer that it is. My thinking here is that if 17 volts fried the camera, why allow a setting of 17 volts in the menu as a "low voltage setting"?

You're right about the camera using a much lower voltage to operate. Most of the digital logic I work with uses 5 volts and lower. In my classes at the collage where I teach, we use a microprocessor that operates from 2.2 volts up to 5.5 volts. Many voltage regulators can handle 1 amp with only a heatsink and don't require an external transistor.

Sincerely,

Bob Diaz

Powering my EX1 with a 12v Anton Bauer, even though it reads 17 volts output, works fine. Your camera batteries are reading more than 12 volt as well.

See my blog about this @ http://web.mac.com/stevecahill/Steve_Cahills_Blog/Blog/Entries/2008/1/21_Sony_Charger_for_the_EX1_Autopsy.html

Sorry to ask, but just to be sure (as I want to do the same mod as you did on your EX1 charger), can you confirm the polarity of the XLR, camera side and charger side ?
standard for 12 Volt is XLR 4, is it ?

Many thanks.

ps : good tutorial on your blog. thanks.

The camera center pin is positive, you can wire the XLR like this.

PIN 1 NEGATIVE
PIN 2 is unconnected
PIN 3 is unconnected
PIN 4 POSITIVE

Make sure you check all your wiring with a voltmeter before you connect to the camera. MAKE sure that the voltage going to the camera center pin is POSITIVE!

many thanks.

Glad I found this post! With more people trying it, and no reported fried EX1's (touch wood), it seems like the EX1 indeed behaves like any ENG camera with a 12VDC in, just with a different connector. I just wish Sony acknowledged that by simply making a barrel-to-XLR4 accessory cable.

Speaking of which, does anyone know how this powering scheme lives with Sony's warranty? Has anyone called and asked? :-)
There is no need to open or mod neither the camera nor the charger, it's just the power cable. Also, I've never heard of warranty concerns when using custom Dolgin or NRG Research camcorder power adapters.

Many thanks to Steve Cahill and Sebastien Thomas, who researched all the necessary information.

Just taken delivery of XLR to EX1 cables from PAG. Connected L95 battery to the EX1 and get a reading of 16volts. All is working well.

I bought into this system several years ago for powering my portable DAT recorders:
http://www.ecocharge.com/batteries_ec90.html

and I've done Steve's mod on my charger adding the XLR-4 pigtail. So, I can now switch between the 4-pin XLR's of either the Sony charger or the EcoCharge batteries.

Also, does anybody know this answer: If you are running off of an external battery source and it drops below the Sony's minimum requirement, will the camera switch over to the internal battery without a problem?

We Found that there is already a cable made that will allow you to use a external power supply.
http://www.vortexmedia.com/EXDC1/EXDC1_Adapter_Cable/EXDC1.html

We have used this cable with Antonbauer batteries and a 4pin professional pwoer supply.

Works great! Check it out.

Or a trip to Radio Shack and the Blog article @
http://web.mac.com/stevecahill/Steve_Cahills_Blog/Blog/Entries/2008/1/21_Sony_Charger_for_the_EX1_Autopsy.html


Vortex is a good solution.

Would just like to report that my studio configuration has been powering 3 EX1's for two months now with no issues. I ended up using laptop power supplies, reasoning that if it's good enough for a computer, it should be graceful enough for the EX1. At $75 (vs. $25 for a regular modern power supply) I figured it was worth the peace of mind.

I chopped the power terminals, soldered XLR4's, and that goes into a junction box, and about 150 ft. inside the wall and out to the cameras, over a custom-terminated snake that carries HD-SDI, intercom, tally and power; originally an A/V snake, I used a pair of balanced audio cables (a total of 6 conductors) to carry the power, which satisfied TIA requirements for load vs. gauge handling. In the end, the cameras are getting about 14V and are happy.

The power connector is called EIAJ class IV, or EIAJ-04. Philmore makes them, P/N 255 and 2559.

I'd like to thank Sebastien Thomas and Michael Stevens for being the first on the line with their EX1's, to discover this handy and scarcely documented feature of the cameras.

Would just like to report that my studio configuration has been powering 3 EX1's for two months now with no issues. I ended up using laptop power supplies, reasoning that if it's good enough for a computer, it should be graceful enough for the EX1. At $75 (vs. $25 for a regular modern power supply) I figured it was worth the peace of mind.

I chopped the power terminals, soldered XLR4's, and that goes into a junction box, and about 150 ft. inside the wall and out to the cameras, over a custom-terminated snake that carries HD-SDI, intercom, tally and power; originally an A/V snake, I used a pair of balanced audio cables (a total of 6 conductors) to carry the power, which satisfied TIA requirements for load vs. gauge handling. In the end, the cameras are getting about 14V and are happy.

The power connector is called EIAJ class IV, or EIAJ-04. Philmore makes them, P/N 255 and 2559.

I'd like to thank Sebastien Thomas and Michael Stevens for being the first on the line with their EX1's, to discover this handy and scarcely documented feature of the cameras.

Drew,

Which laptop power supplies?

How long do they operate before they need a recharge?

How are you recharging them?

John

A very elegant solution to power either the cam, or some accessories (like a field monitor, light, or the NanoFlash for that matter), is this:

http://www.tekkeon.com/downloads/dtasht_MP3450.pdf

However, with the above battery or with my PAG 100Wh brick, I'm equally at lost:

How to fix them to the tripod?


With all those smaller cams, an underneath cage systems (for batteries, HDD's, and what-not) are available. However, with the EX1? Or the EX1 on a rail system, holding Letus and/or some matte box? A small cage is out of question!

How would you attach a battery like the Tekkeon, or an adapter like PAGlock, to your tripod so that it's elegant, safe, and you're not literally attached yourself by wearing it at your belt?

Any suggestions welcome!

We use the Zacuto rail system which has a AB or V-Lock battery option. This is an expensive option though.
I have a reel of industrial Velcro which can be used to lock anything with a flat surface to just about anything else with a flat surface. Other option is to use tool clips (very cheap) to clip things onto tripod legs. Example of tool clips here:
Auto Parts Wholesalers - Terry Tool Clips (http://norma.net.au/terry-tool-clips.html)
Pretty certain you can buy them anywhere. You can use them to clip a small aluminium plate onto tripod legs and then the velcro to lock all manner of things onto the plate.

What I call industrial Velcro is 3M Dual Lock SJ 355 D. You can buy it from Radio Spares PN 458-7321. Be warned this stuff really locks tight. Not terribly cheap but a reel goes a long way.

Thanks Bob; my problem is that in this relatively young and shallow market where I live, it's quite difficult to source this kind of stuff.

But I guess the general idea is clear: a light-weight plate clamped to the tripod's leg, and pretty much anything velcro'ed to it!

I just thought about a poor man's solution: do you think I could just hang the PAGlok (with belt clip) on the stick that you use to level the Mannfrotto 503 head? Did anyone try that?

I'm afraid that the mass of the 100Wh brick dangling underneath the head could make my shots unstable...

Thanks Bob; my problem is that in this relatively young and shallow market where I live, it's quite difficult to source this kind of stuff.

But I guess the general idea is clear: a light-weight plate clamped to the tripod's leg, and pretty much anything velcro'ed to it!

How about from eBay - France?


Dual lock SJ 355 D marque 3 M boite de 10 m en vente sur eBay.fr (fin le 21-Sep-08 08:47:02 Paris) (http://cgi.ebay.fr/Dual-lock--SJ-355-D-marque-3-M-boite-de-10-m_W0QQitemZ380063198991QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20080911?IMSfp=TL080911132001r23234)

or Belgium?:

eBay.be: Dual lock SJ 355 D marque 3 M au mètre (object 270246217298 eindtijd 11-okt-08 09:16:57 CEST) (http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/Dual-lock-SJ-355-D-marque-3-M-au-metre_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ270246217298)

John

I just thought about a poor man's solution: do you think I could just hang the PAGlok (with belt clip) on the stick that you use to level the Mannfrotto 503 head? Did anyone try that?

I'm afraid that the mass of the 100Wh brick dangling underneath the head could make my shots unstable...

I use a Manfrotto 3146 in between the legs of my tripod. When I put someting heavy in it, it adds stability to my tripod.

Bogen / Manfrotto | 3146 Tripod Utility Apron | 3146 | B&H Photo (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5400-REG/Bogen_Manfrotto_3146_3146_Tripod_Utility_Apron.html#)

It is also known as the Manfrotto 166

Manfrotto 166 Utility Apron Support - fotoSENSE (http://www.fotosense.co.uk/manfrotto-166-utility-apron-support.html)

John

I use a Manfrotto 3146 in between the legs of my tripod. When I put someting heavy in it, it adds stability to my tripod.

John

Yes, lowering the COG and adding some weight can be advantageous - but I was hesitant about anything actually dangling from the center column.

Yes, lowering the COG and adding some weight can be advantageous - but I was hesitant about anything actually dangling from the center column.

Before I got the apron I used to use a sock filled with ball bearings dangling from the center of the tripod. It actually worked well, but didn't look very professional.

The other thing I like about the Manfrotto apron is that it has three compartments.

John

Thanks John - your sock got me convinced... ;)

Hi,

trying to answer an old question of this thread :

if you have both the inside battery + the power plug connected you will use the power plug as source.
If the power plug get out or energy, the internal battery will be used immediately, without poweroff of the camera.

At least, this is my experience.

Drew,
Which laptop power supplies?
How long do they operate before they need a recharge?
How are you recharging them?

Not sure what you mean, John, I'm not using batteries in this setup, the power supplies run the cameras indefinitely. If taken to the field, batteries are used and charged the OEM way. With this setup, I also had no need to modify (butcher ;-) the OEM charger/adaptor.

I used Edac (http://www.edacpower.com/) supplies, obtained through a reseller in UT that I was completely dissatisfied with; I just had to follow up on everything 6 times, and they still messed up the order. The products work fine, though.

A very elegant solution to power either the cam, or some accessories (like a field monitor, light, or the NanoFlash for that matter), is this:

http://www.tekkeon.com/downloads/dtasht_MP3450.pdf

However, with the above battery or with my PAG 100Wh brick, I'm equally at lost:

How to fix them to the tripod?


With all those smaller cams, an underneath cage systems (for batteries, HDD's, and what-not) are available. However, with the EX1? Or the EX1 on a rail system, holding Letus and/or some matte box? A small cage is out of question!

How would you attach a battery like the Tekkeon, or an adapter like PAGlock, to your tripod so that it's elegant, safe, and you're not literally attached yourself by wearing it at your belt?

Any suggestions welcome!

We now offer the Swit Charger TC400 EX1 (http://dolgin.net/Battery_Charger_TC400-EX.htm) battery with a D-Tap connector. Fits in EX1 where original battery BP-U60 goes.

Not sure what you mean, John, I'm not using batteries in this setup, the power supplies run the cameras indefinitely. If taken to the field, batteries are used and charged the OEM way. With this setup, I also had no need to modify (butcher ;-) the OEM charger/adaptor.

I used Edac (http://www.edacpower.com/) supplies, obtained through a reseller in UT that I was completely dissatisfied with; I just had to follow up on everything 6 times, and they still messed up the order. The products work fine, though.

Drew,

I thought you meant internal laptop power supplies that you also used in the field after they were charged. You meant external laptop power supplies with modified plugs for studio use on AC power that were cheaper than the Sony BC-U1 that goes for around $120 each.

You say the EDAC laptop power supplies worked well.

1. Which model?

2. Have you measured the actual output voltage?

Thanks,

John

Uh, do they make laptops with internal power supplies anymore?? I haven't seen one in a decade. If they do, let me know, I'm actually on the lookout...

I used Edac EA1060A-57 and ED1050A-120, which supply 15V and 14V respectively, to compensate for the really long cable runs. Upon measuring, the head end voltage was a bit higher than rated, and the cameras got around 14.1V. So I'd recommend 12V and 13V supplies.

Indeed, the Edacs were cheaper than the BC-U1, but the main point was about voltage compensation, and getting from the DC Out wire to the camera. The units are buried in a machine room rack, and the camera now gets one neat cable. Perhaps a couple of photos would clarify: the patch panel is in the machine room, and on the camera you can see the end of a camera cable, which splits into 2 HD-SDI, intercom, tally, and power.

What did you use for your tally light?

I was on the verge of building one myself, but opted for a Datavideo unit.

Are you still with TNT, Ted? Impressive work.

Yes, all by myself (very lonely here!). Started the company about four years ago - nearly time to update the site with more recent and current jobs. Thanks, though!