Hi all,

I am hoping to use the Nikon 80-200 f2.8 on the Z7 using a Nikon adapter made by Mike Tapa. (haven't bought the lens yet)

I realise though that there will be no focusing aid so I will have to relay on my eyes and judgment to get an absolute focus. Working with a telescope lens from a short distance with a shallow DOF might make focusing very difficult with nothing to relay on.
Does anyone have any idea how to solve this?

Thanks!

Ofer Levy
Nature photographer
http://www.oferlevyphotography.com

Measuring tape?

Measuring tape?

Great joke!!

Some serious advice would be appreciated...

Great joke!!

Some serious advice would be appreciated...

Well that´s what professional cinematographers have been using for the past 100 years and still do. Quite serious, I would say...

Well that´s what professional cinematographers have been using for the past 100 years and still do. Quite serious, I would say...

I am new to this business but somehow feel that there must be a more "modern" way than a measuring tape....(-:
I am going to make wildlife films - especially about birds, so a measuring tape is not an option....

Well, it wasn't meant as a joke. Still SLR camera lenses have mechanical focus rings that are very precise. If the focal distance on the lens says that it's in focus at 12 feet, then that's what's in focus. This is unlike servo-motor prosumer video lenses that just spin endlessly, making it difficult to reproduce precise focus distances.

Under some wildlife shooting scenarios, a measuring tape would be appropriate. For example, I am currently using a film camera to shoot birds on a feeder. I have measured out the precise distance from my lens to the feeder and set the focus based on the hash marks.

Won't work in every situation, obviously, but in some circumstances trusting a measuring tape is more reliable than trusting your eyes.

Well, it wasn't meant as a joke. Still SLR camera lenses have mechanical focus rings that are very precise. If the focal distance on the lens says that it's in focus at 12 feet, then that's what's in focus. This is unlike servo-motor prosumer video lenses that just spin endlessly, making it difficult to reproduce precise focus distances.

Under some wildlife shooting scenarios, a measuring tape would be appropriate. For example, I am currently using a film camera to shoot birds on a feeder. I have measured out the precise distance from my lens to the feeder and set the focus based on the hash marks.

Won't work in every situation, obviously, but in some circumstances trusting a measuring tape is more reliable than trusting your eyes.

Thanks for that Brian,

How about some kind of a small magnifying lens attached to the view finder and giving a much bigger image which makes it is easier to focus. SInce I also have the LCD I can use it for making the composition.
I realise that if there is really no way to get a perfect focus and I only relay on guessing - I am stuck with a camera which is totally useless for me...)-:

Thanks for that Brian,

How about some kind of a small magnifying lens attached to the view finder and giving a much bigger image which makes it is easier to focus. SInce I also have the LCD I can use it for making the composition.
I realise that if there is really no way to get a perfect focus and I only relay on guessing - I am stuck with a camera which is totally useless for me...)-:

You need to remember that the viewfinder is not optical, so magnifying that would just make the pixels larger. I guess you might be better off by using the lcd which has a greater pixel count together with the focus assist function.
Of course if there is a way for you to use an external hd monitor, that's obviously the way to go.

I have used a borrowed laser rangefinder before. It gives very accurate measurements. Just don't put the red dot near any animal's eye.

Thanks for your input so far guys!
I am not sure about the laser thing - looks a bit too complecated. An external HD LCD looks like a more interesting option for me. I have a Toshiba laptop with HD LCD - will this work?

Why not a 60" plasma? That should allow you to focus properly!

Why not a 60" plasma? That should allow you to focus properly!

I am not sure I appreciate this VERY clever humor. I need advice not clever comments.
Thank you.

Just practice really. On broadcast cameras it helps to turn the viewfinder peaking right up, not sure if these domestic cams have one though. You'll probably find it extra difficult to follow focus in progressive mode as the image blur makes it always look out of focus with moving targets.
Steve

They're rightm, and giving you the right answer, which is why the pseduo-sarcasm still persisted. Here are common ways to get focus:

a) Measuring tape (difficult for one man shoots) and setting marks on the ground and on the lens.

b) Use a good HD monitor on set that'll provide a sharp image and eye balling it.

c) If the Z7 has a 'zoom focus' button (not sure of the correct name), where it blows up the image so you can focus, use it. I'd suggest holding a 8"x11" sheet of paper with small 12-pt print on it where you want the focus - if you can get that in focus (eye balling it), you're in business. If the Z7 has a 'zoom focus' button, sounds like that'll be your best friend.

I use b) and c) when I shoot, and I shoot with a Nikon 35 lens on an HV20 - fully manual as well. It's been working so far. Having a good HD monitor on set is priceless.

Ofer,

Yes, to clarify my point, you need a high resolution monitor amd honestly, the bigger the better (at least as far as I'm concerned, as a side note, if you blow up an hd image on a really large screen, this will make any focus problems painfully obvious). There are professional lcds that allow you to zoom up in on an edge, like a digital slr will allow you to do, but I doubt these will be with in budget, so I don't think that will work. I'd be wary of laptop lcds, if you do go this route, adjust properly, but most laptop lcd screens wont be high enough resolution (do you know the res of yours off hand?). Also, there might be monitoring software (adobe onlocation?) that may allow you to zoom on an edge to focus.

To add on the various measuring tape comments, the reason why this is still used, is because it is the most accurate way to focus, giving that you have a lens with accurate focus scales on it. With a film camera, the optical viewfinder is just an apparent representation of an image, focus sharpness isn't exactly accurate.

I'd be really careful of what lens you buy for this as well. I'm not sure about the lens you mentioned here, but many of the lesser digital slr lenses out there fringe quite easily under high contrast conditions. I'm not sure why you need such a zoom range, but maybe a shorter range zoom would be a better comprise.

Thank you guys for the very useful advice!!

I will get an external monitor and am considering the Marshall
V-R70P-HDA 7" LCD Monitor.

I need a long zoom as I am hoping to film mostly birds. I do use hides but from my experience as a bird photographer I know I will need an effective zoom of about 500-1400 which is what the Nikon 80-200 mounted on the Z7 will give me.

I hope to post some footage in here soon.

Thanks all for your important input! Any other information would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!
Ofer Levy

Ofer, I would really not suggest getting this monitor, as both the viewfinder and lcd on the z7 has almost 3 times the resolution of this monitor (1,226,880 for the viewfinder, 921,600 for the lcd, vs 384000 for the marshall). Any way that you look at it, this monitor is going to be a downgrade from the cameras monitors, in terms of resolution, which is what you are looking for here.

I really think a software solution would be best for you, it would allow you to isolate a specific area like a hard edge or some texture detail and focus on that. If the camera has a zoom feature for the lcd display, then your problem is already solved.

Ofer, I would really not suggest getting this monitor, as both the viewfinder and lcd on the z7 has almost 3 times the resolution of this monitor (1,226,880 for the viewfinder, 921,600 for the lcd, vs 384000 for the marshall). Any way that you look at it, this monitor is going to be a downgrade from the cameras monitors, in terms of resolution, which is what you are looking for here.

I really think a software solution would be best for you, it would allow you to isolate a specific area like a hard edge or some texture detail and focus on that. If the camera has a zoom feature for the lcd display, then your problem is already solved.

Thanks Greg! I appreciate your great input which saves me a lot of money and frustration.
As you can tell I have almost no knowledge in this business but I have to start a major project in less than 2 months - making a doco about the Australian Bustard which is an amazing huge bird who lives in the Northern Territory. I am going to work with a researcher who spent 7 years of his life studying them for his PhD and from what he says it is an AMAZING story in a wild and beautiful place...
With your input and the input of other experienced filmmakers I know I will make it although I realise it won't be easy. When I started my bird photography career about 4 years ago I had similar silly questions posted in the various forums but it didn't take long before I got the stuff you can see on my website. Although filmmaking is way more difficult than still photography I see no reason why I won't get the same quality stuff in HD video. I always work in perfect light conditions so basically once I figured out the settings it should be more or less the same.
The rest is just practicing.
I am getting the Nikon adapter this week and will try it with the Nikon 80-200 f2.8 which was recommended by many JVC and Canon HD shooters. If I will have difficulties with focusing I will ask you guys to try and help me.
Cheers,

Ofer Levy http://www.oferlevyphotography.com

How about a laser measuring device. I am not sure of the name or what's it's called. But I have seen them on tv. You point it at a wall and it gives a reading of the distance in digital. I think real estate agents or architects/builders might be using this.

Of course, you realize that at times it might not work if the surface is glass, water or some reflective surface that confuses or diffuses the laser.

I remember now. I think I saw this in an Oprah show where he has this home improvement guy do a house make-over. He has this gadget and he wanted to measure the room. Maybe you should check out interior decorator folks.

Again, there might be some exceptions in its use (e.g. outdoor or with some surfaces, but it might be better than tape measure in some instances.

http://www.oferlevyphotography.com

Great stuff on your site! It'd be great if you shared your results here when you do use the Z7 for your work.

Great stuff on your site! It'd be great if you shared your results here when you do use the Z7 for your work.

Thanks Mel and Christopher!

I promise to post some footage as soon as I get all my stuff. It will take a few weeks.

Ofer.

Focus assist (digital enlargement of the centre of the viewfinder image as I know it) and the peaking functions, (I use colour red), work quite well for me with aerial image relayed long lenses on a Z1. The shallower depth-of-field of the long lens actually seems to help.

While physical measurement of the distance is most accurate, it will not be a practical option for filming our scrub turkey which will not be very co-operative in posing for photo opportunities.

I now know why you want your vehicle window mount.

With plenty of practice, I think you will find the LCD viewfinder, peaking and focus assist functions are handier than credit is given for them. You will have your dud shots of course but I would favour agile portability versus being tied up to a monitor on a cord.

You will need a good shade box or hood on the LCD though.

Focus assist (digital enlargement of the centre of the viewfinder image as I know it) and the peaking functions, (I use colour red), work quite well for me with aerial image relayed long lenses on a Z1.

Focus assist! That's what I was referring to earlier, thanks Bob. Yes, this is the way to 'eye-ball-it' more easily, which might be better if you need to get a shot in focus quickly at a location. It's a standard function in more than a few cameras, and I've used it with the Z1 as well. If you are content with it, then you're set - if you need more (laser rangerinder, external LCD) then you can always purchase those down the road.

I am hoping to use the Nikon 80-200 f2.8 on the Z7 using a Nikon adapter made by Mike Tapa. (haven't bought the lens yet)


Although you probably know this, you'll need a "non-G" lens with an aperture ring. So, the 80-200mm is a good choice but the venerable Nikon 70-200VR won't. This bums me out as I have a lot of good Nikon lenses that don't have an aperture ring.

Although you probably know this, you'll need a "non-G" lens with an aperture ring. So, the 80-200mm is a good choice but the venerable Nikon 70-200VR won't. This bums me out as I have a lot of good Nikon lenses that don't have an aperture ring.

Thanks Gints, I got the 80-200 f2.8 and should get it from B&H any day now.