Hello,

Some threads discuss the possibility of using the EX-3 with the Pilot, but has anyone used this combination successfully? The EX-3 is a bit on the heavy side for the Pilot, I guess, but in a setup with the IDX battery system and no extra accessories, it should be possible to achieve a useable (stable) rig?

Reading the different posts I´m still confused about the 10 lbs/4,5 kg load limit on the Pilot. Some say the battery and monitor is included in this limit, others insist they´re not. Can anyone elaborate? I don´t seem to find any info about this in the Pilot Manual.

If I choose to use the EX-3 (and the IDX battery system battery) with the Pilot, will I be able to add additional screw-on weights to optimize the inertia? If so how many of them, and where should I add these weights?

(I don´t plan to use a wireless system or a shotgun microphone on the EX-3. I´ll rather use an external recorder for sound when needed.)

It´s hard to understand the concept of stabilizers when you´re not able to see or handle the products yourself. I´m grateful for inputs that´ll enlighten me. Thank you.

Best,
Terje Rian

Some threads discuss the possibility of using the EX-3 with the Pilot, but has anyone used this combination successfully?
Yes, I've flown an EX3 on a Pilot.

Reading the different posts I´m still confused about the 10 lbs/4,5 kg load limit on the Pilot. Some say the battery and monitor is included in this limit, others insist they´re not. Can anyone elaborate?
Yes, it includes the Battery, but not the monitor. The battery is about 3/4 pound.

If I choose to use the EX-3 (and the IDX battery system battery) with the Pilot, will I be able to add additional screw-on weights to optimize the inertia? If so how many of them, and where should I add these weights?
Yes. Add two middle weights and 1 end weight to each end of the bottom crossbar. This gives good pan inertia. The weight of the IDX battery plus this number of screw on weights totals up to 2 pounds at the bottom. This means you have 8 pounds left for the top.

If you have a scale, it's nice to measure everything. In the U.S., they sell nice scales for this at the Post Office:
http://shop.usps.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10152&storeId=10001&categoryId=11823&productId=11049&langId=-1

If not, then if you are using the smaller EX3 battery, add the other 2 weights to the stage. You could even add more weights to the stage. They can be ordered here:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/552728-REG/Steadicam_801_7920_05_801_7920_05_Middle_Balance_Weight.html

If using the larger EX3 battery, then don't add any weights to the stage.

If you want to fly accessories on the EX3, don't use any battery in the EX3, use the IDX battery for everything. A fully charged IDX battery will power both the monitor and the EX3 for around 4 hours or more. You'll need to make a special cable for this. One end of the cable will use the 2.1mm connector supplied with the Pilot, the other end of the cable will need a special connector like this:
EXDC1 (http://www.vortexmedia.com/EXDC1/EXDC1_Adapter_Cable/EXDC1.html)

You may also want to use a tripod adapter, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-577-Connect-Adapter-Mounting/dp/B00009XV3M/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1223439599&sr=8-1
That will add to stage weight as well.

In any case, you'll want to remove the hood/eyepiece that covers the LCD monitor on the EX3. Also, you might need a slate if you are using 2-system sound.

Not quite sure why anyone wouldn't want to power the EX series from the rig...?

I would think it would always be beneficial to sub in the weights for the camera battery as they will have more inertial effect, plus you only have one battery to keep track of.

Most cameras this size are 7.2v which require a separate downconverter, I love that the EX series runs on the same voltage as the "pro style" batteries. It's about time.

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your knowlegde and experience, Mr. Gish. I agree with Mr. Papert, using the rig to power the camera seems to be the most practical solution (at least from my point of view).

The constant need to convert US pounds to kilograms makes understanding practical stabilizer issues a bit challenging, but I´m happy to hear that the EX-3 actually can fly using the Pilot, even if this only can happen in a "down-stripped" EX-3 version.

Having tried to balance and use a Magiqcam some years ago, I definitly want to go for a tried and tested stabilizer this time. A "large" group of users of a certain camera and stabilizer combination makes it reassuring to choose which stabilizer to buy.

As I understand, Mr. Gish, when you refer to the battery weight (3/4 pounds) you do refer to the IDX BATTERY, don´t you? I already own an electrical scale, but a slate is a good idea to buy. Thank you for the tip.

Does the Pilot come with all the weights needed to use the EX-3 or do I need to purchase additional weights?

And how did you connect the EX-3 to the monitor? Did you use composite? Or component? Is the video cable included with the Pilot? And what about the picture quality on the monitor itself. Will it accept the HD signal and down convert, or do I need to down convert inside the camera? The monitor should be good enough for framing at least, I guess? Owning a Panasonic LH-80 monitor I would of course rather use it, but the weight limit makes it impossible. (A larger stabilizer rig isn´t an option.)

A lot of question, Mr. Gish. I´m sorry for this. I really appreciate you sharing your experience and knowlegde. Maybe some of your answers here can be included in your valuable FAQ as well? Then you could just refer to the FAQ? A time saver...
:-)

Thank you for taking time.

Best,
Terje Rian

Not quite sure why anyone wouldn't want to power the EX series from the rig...?
Good question. If you're flying someone else's EX1/EX3 (like on a student film), then it might be easier to just use the camera battery. You and I know it's OK and doesn't hurt the camera, but others may worry. When I pitch myself to student films, I try to minimize intrusions into their normal process. Since student films usually plug sound into the camera, that's usually enough of a hurdle to get over without going into battery details.

If you own the EX1/EX3, then yes, powering from the pilot batteries can be a lot more convenient. But if you switch between steadicam and sticks frequently, then camera batteries could be better.

So this is more of a gray area for me.

If you are flying an EX3 and need some camera accessories (like wireless sound, shotgun, or on-camera lights), then there is no choice, as the weight with the camera battery and inertial weights will go over 10 pounds.

I would think it would always be beneficial to sub in the weights for the camera battery as they will have more inertial effect, ...
I'm a little confused about this. I usually fly with 2 pounds on the bottom and 8 pounds on top. The 2 pounds of bottom weight includes the battery and a total of 4 middle weights and 2 round end weights. 8 pounds of top weight will accommodate an EX3 with a battery. In fact, if it's the smaller battery, then you need to add more middle weights to the stage to get up to 8 pounds.

If I re-balance the weight to maybe 7 pounds on top and 3 pounds on the bottom, then pan inertia increases, but the stage moves significantly further up from the gimbal. Which would you favor in this kind of trade-off?

Most cameras this size are 7.2v which require a separate down converter, I love that the EX series runs on the same voltage as the "pro style" batteries. It's about time.
Yes. I wish they were all that way.

Oh, I forgot:

[QUOTE=Dave Gish;948158]

Yes. Add two middle weights and 1 end weight to each end of the bottom crossbar. This gives good pan inertia. The weight of the IDX battery plus this number of screw on weights totals up to 2 pounds at the bottom. This means you have 8 pounds left for the top.

But is your calculation of the bottom crossbar weight correct? I read somewhere that the screw on weights weigh:

Start weight 7.70 oz
Middle weight 6.25 oz
End weight 4.50 oz

According to you suggestion the screw on weights (4 x middel + 2 x end) will amount to a total of 34 oz (964 gr), and the IDX battery is stated as 18.3 oz (520 gr) according to the manufacturers web site. This will result in a total of 3.27 pounds on the bottom crossbar, not 2 pounds? Or am I mistaken? Maybe the Pilot can handle the weight anyway?

Thanks again.

Best,
Terje Rian

As I understand, Mr. Gish, when you refer to the battery weight (3/4 pounds) you do refer to the IDX BATTERY, don´t you?
Actually, the IDX and AA packs weigh almost exactly the same. The IDX Vlock mount may weigh a little more though.

Does the Pilot come with all the weights needed to use the EX-3 or do I need to purchase additional weights?
For the EX3, I would purchase 4 additional weights. For other cameras I would purchase 8 additional weights. I like to always keep close to 10 pounds of weight for more stability.

And how did you connect the EX-3 to the monitor? Did you use composite? Or component? Is the video cable included with the Pilot? And what about the picture quality on the monitor itself. Will it accept the HD signal and down convert, or do I need to down convert inside the camera? The monitor should be good enough for framing at least, I guess?
The Pilot monitor uses SD composite. The EX3 has a BNC connector on the right side for this. The Pilot has a BNC to RCA adapter and cable to get you started, but since this connector ends up sicking out right next to your left shoulder, it's better to get a custom cable with a right angle BNC connector.

Oh, I forgot:
Start weight 7.70 oz
Middle weight 6.25 oz
End weight 4.50 oz
No. I weighed the Middle weight at 4 oz. and the end weight at 2oz.

Thank you for your kind help, Mr. Gish. The best of luck to you and your on-going projects.

Best,
Terje Ran

Dave, regarding the battery issue. One of the things that seems to have become a "non-issue" with the digital video generation is a unified power source. It's not impossible for one to be carrying four different batteries on a shooting setup (for sticks work, say, camera battery, one onboard monitor with up to two (!) batteries on back, wireless mike receivers with AA's or 9 volt internally etc). With Steadicam, obviously no onboard monitor but add in the battery at the bottom. The problem with all of this is that each will go down at a different time and most of them are not easily monitored.

I came up in Steadicam when a single battery powered everything, which caused plenty of mischief for 24v cameras (we had to use step-up inverters that were prone to failure, not good times). The PRO was the first system to use 3 batteries that allowed true 24v operation plus a dedicated battery for video taps/transmitters that kept that path clear from interference from the camera motor. That's no longer as much of an issue with modern film cameras and now most rigs use 2 matched batteries. For 12v video, it's more than possible to use a single battery in terms of power (for counterweight purposes, 2 is usually better and it doubles the runtime).

Even when I was shooting EFP style with Betacams, we had the wireless receivers and onboard light plugged in to the camera body so all were powering off the brick on the back.

So you can imagine that I find it confusing that so many people now shoot with multiple batteries. It's just that much more to keep up with mentally. If you are shooting with a Steadicam, you aren't monitoring audio with headphones so how do you know that the wireless receiver(s) hasn't died? If you are on sticks and using the onboard monitor to compose, will you remember to check the status of the batteries regularly so it doesn't die in the middle of the take? Maybe it's just considered part of the acceptable scheme of things now, but in the world I've been in for many years, it's considered a serious screwup to have the battery die in the middle of a take. I can only imagine that for event or wedding shooters, it's even worse.

Anyway, as far as students being prickly about their cameras being powered by outboard sources; the EX batteries are 14.4v, the Steadicam battery is 14.4v. The only other factor is polarity, which is easy to check with a meter and can't change once the cable is built. Part of the deal with working with students is that they are in the process of being educated, and powering their camera from external sources is something that shouldn't be scary. We've been doing that with much more expensive cameras for many years.

About the shuffling of weights possible without the battery--I was just suggesting that losing the internal battery will allow you to replace that mass with the Pilot weights at the back of the stage, which are further spread out and more easily tunable.

Most cameras this size are 7.2v which require a separate downconverter,

Hey Charles, not to hijack a thread but where would i find such a downconverter? Im guessing it'd have to be a small light weight one..

My Pilot is currently sitting at DHL waiting for customs to clear it.. all i've gotta do is pay tax and customs charges. Cant wait to pick her up!

I came up in Steadicam when a single battery powered everything, ...
Even when I was shooting EFP style with Betacams, we had the wireless receivers and onboard light plugged in to the camera body so all were powering off the brick on the back.

So you can imagine that I find it confusing that so many people now shoot with multiple batteries. It's just that much more to keep up with mentally.
Hi Charles,
As always, I appreciate your experience and expert advice, and I hope one day to work at some sort of professional level. The closer I get to that, the more I like it. Do you still get jacked up after shooting something good? Like even though you're tired, you're just wired (in a good sort of way) and you can't go to sleep? Does that rush wear off?

Yes, I would love it if everything was powered by one battery, like you do with a real movie camera. In the mean time, I have to deal with different batteries, but actually only 2 types:
1) AAs
2) Camera Batteries
My Pilot-AA, Sennheiser G2-100 wireless system, and Fostex FR-2LE field sound recorder all use AAs. My AA chargers are fast (1 hour), and there are 16 charging slots, so it's not that bad.

If you are shooting with a Steadicam, you aren't monitoring audio with headphones so how do you know that the wireless receiver(s) hasn't died?
The wireless has a battery indicator which helps, and two AA rechargeables last around 8 hours, so it's not that bad. The real issue is wireless drop-out, so even if the guy editing the project doesn't want to deal with manually syncing 2-system sound, I like to get the field sound recorder in the sound loop as backup. In other words, the lav or boom mics run wired/wireless into the sound recorder, and then from there runs wireless to the camera. The sound guy monitors what's going into the field recorder, so you know you have good sound there. If there's no drop out, then the field recorder sound is never used. If there is drop out, then they only have to line up the affected clips, and they can use the bad wireless sound as a reference to line things up, so a slate isn't necessary. I also have a slate, and have used full 2-system sound when the editor doesn't mind lining everything up manually, and the director likes slating scenes anyway.

The field sound recorder also has a battery indicator, and 4 AAs last 4 hours of continuous recording, so that's not too bad to deal with.

Maybe it's just considered part of the acceptable scheme of things now, but in the world I've been in for many years, it's considered a serious screwup to have the battery die in the middle of a take. I can only imagine that for event or wedding shooters, it's even worse.
I've never seen it happen, so I would to think it would be considered a screw-up, not sure how serious. People do tend to be aware of the camera battery indicator.

Anyway, as far as students being prickly about their cameras being powered by outboard sources; the EX batteries are 14.4v, the Steadicam battery is 14.4v. The only other factor is polarity, which is easy to check with a meter and can't change once the cable is built. Part of the deal with working with students is that they are in the process of being educated, and powering their camera from external sources is something that shouldn't be scary. We've been doing that with much more expensive cameras for many years.
To be honest, I've never tried to convince them not to use the camera battery. Most of time, sound is a much bigger issue. A lot of people are used to running sound into the camera, and then back out of the camera again for monitoring. So if I can get them to change their whole setup so that I fly without being tethered, that's enough of an accomplishment, and I don't bother about the battery. But this year I may have a project with people I've worked with already, so then I would give that a try. I have bought the special right-angle Sony power connector, so I can make a custom a cable whenever I need it.

Do you still get jacked up after shooting something good? Like even though you're tired, you're just wired (in a good sort of way) and you can't go to sleep? Does that rush wear off?

Well...it's not quite what it was, certainly as far as operating. I do get that from working as a DP or director though. I'd have to think about the last time I got really jazzed from doing a Steadicam shot...

Hearing about your power requirements makes me think more about possible solutions. What are the total number of voltages that might be required from any given shooting scenario? I count 12v (aka 14.4v) for the EX's, onboard lights/monitor, 7.2v for cameras and 3v for audio components. Anything else? Some wireless receivers take 9v, right?

Hearing about your power requirements makes me think more about possible solutions. What are the total number of voltages that might be required from any given shooting scenario? I count 12v (aka 14.4v) for the EX's, onboard lights/monitor, 7.2v for cameras and 3v for audio components. Anything else? Some wireless receivers take 9v, right?
Yep. Lectrosonics uses 9v, Sennheiser uses 2 AAs. Cameras use Li/Ion packs with either 2 or 4 cells internally. Each Li/Ion cell is 3.6v. I haven't used enough on-camera lights to know what voltages these use, but I figure these are probably covered by 7.2v, 9v, or 12v.

Thanks Dave.

Back to the more immediate subject at hand--one thing about the 10lb limit on the Pilot is that the science of spring uniformity amongst arms is not an exact one. Some Pilot arms will take a bit more, hopefully none will take less (!). The additional weights make it easy to learn what the exact capacity of your rig is, just keep loading it up until the arm is fully maxed out in lift and starts to droop below horizontal, and that is your nominal max capacity. It is possible to go more in a pinch but you have to start holding the arm up which can be tiring. Significantly more than the stated capacity, and you start to risk strain on the gimbal and other components. But it's well worth finding out the load bearing of your own rig rather than taking 10 lbs to be the exact number, you might actually be able to sneak that extra weight or wireless receiver onboard after all!

To be short and to the point... Is there any reason I should consider the Flyer over the Pilot for my EX3 and/or EX1 rig?

I use a Senheisser ME64 and/or 1 Evolution Wireless receiver to pull sound from my sound person, or sometimes 2 Evolution Wireless receivers if my sound person is running it all.

I shoot run and gun on documentaries with subjects who are comfortable around our tiny crew - we work with them long term. I'd like to own a rig that I can wear for hours at a time if that's possible, and am looking to buy something soon - with plenty of time to practice before our next project begins this coming summer.

Does anyone know of anyplace in the Denver/Boulder area to test these rigs out?

And thanks for your great reviews Charles and Dave!

Zac

Zachary, your main and really only reason to buy a Flyer over a Pilot is if you need the additional weight capacity that the Flyer allows. From a performance level they are essentially the same, although I personally prefer the design of the Pilot sled and the ability to add the included weights around the sled.

To be short and to the point... Is there any reason I should consider the Flyer over the Pilot for my EX3 and/or EX1 rig?
If you stay under 10 pounds, then the Pilot is better (IMHO).

With the Pilot IDX battery and some weights on the bottom for better pan inertia, this essentially limits you to 8 pounds. If you keep the EX3 stock lens, remove the EX3 LCD hood, and power the EX3 from the Pilot sled (i.e. no EX3 battery), then you'll be able to fly 2 Sennheiser G100 wireless receivers no problem. You could probably even throw a small light on there somewhere (again, powered from the IDX sled batts).

I guess if you throw a heavy lens on the EX3, you might go over 10 pounds, but I'm not really sure how much these weigh. If you want to be sure, buy a 10 pound U.S. Postal scale for $40 and weigh everything.
http://shop.usps.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10152&storeId=10001&categoryId=11823&productId=41901&langId=-1
I use one of these and it helps a lot when figuring weight.

The Pilot is definately lighter, so it'll be more comfortable to wear for run & gun stuff.

If you are still unsure, you could take the 2-day workshop before you buy:
http://www.thesteadicamworkshops.com/programs2Day.shtml
http://www.thesteadicamworkshops.com/schedule.shtml
They provide both Pilot and Flyer rigs for you to train on.

From a performance level they are essentially the same, although I personally prefer the design of the Pilot sled and the ability to add the included weights around the sled.
The Pilot also has the advantage of moving the whole lower crossbar forward or back - great for dynamic balance.

Which brings me to something I've been thinking about for a while.

Why doesn't Steadicam just scale the Pilot design up for more weight?

Same simple cross-bar design. Bigger sled post. Bigger screw-on weights. G-50 arm. LX vest. Charge $15K. Lift 30 pounds. Perfect for the RED One.

This wouldn't be as nice as the Archer or Clipper, but it would probably cut a lot into ActionCam and Glidecam sales. Make it a lot easier for new operators to get started.

Call it the Ace...

Dave:

It is safe to say that the basic design of the Pilot which allows for dynamic balancing is much better than the Flyer and this is well known by our friends at Tiffen--expect changes in the Flyer in the future.

The concept of a migrating bottom section goes back a long, long time--see this page (http://www.steadicamforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=187) for the original SK prototype that goes back to the early 90's. Ironically the production SK did not allow for the lower bar to be slid back and forth to facilitate dynamic balance...!

RED sleds are complicated. It doesn't take much to get that camera over 30 lbs unfortunately. Many people don't have lightweight bracketry for it and often have to use it with the "wrong" lenses that are way too heavy. I think that the proposed Scarlet configurations will introduce some really interesting small stabilizer possibilities.

Thank you both -

I sent a note to Peter about the two-day workshops. I saw he offered one in my area last year and am hoping that he'll have another here in the Rockies in 2009. He thinks it's going to happen. I'll shoot for another if not...

I think the Pilot is the way to go from all you say. It gets me in the game flying the cameras I own at a price that's reasonable. The only other lens I'd put on the EX3 to fly would be the upcoming EX-specific wide angle lens that Sony is going to be releasing. I'm sure I can stay under 10lbs. I'm looking forward to getting my rig.

I think the Pilot is the way to go from all you say. It gets me in the game flying the cameras I own at a price that's reasonable. The only other lens I'd put on the EX3 to fly would be the upcoming EX-specific wide angle lens that Sony is going to be releasing.
For the EX3, you'll probably want the Pilot-VLB package that comes with 2 IDX V-lock batteries and charger. BH has it for $4300.
Steadicam | Pilot-VLB Camera Stabilization System | PILOT-VLB (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/536219-REG/Steadicam_PILOT_VLB_Pilot_VLB_Camera_Stabilization_System.html)
For most cameras, I believe the Pilot-AA package it sufficient, but with the EX3 and 2 wireless receivers, you'll likely need to power the EX3 from the sled to save the weight of the EX3 battery. The IDX batts that come with the Pilot VLB are much better for this. You'll also need a power cable with a 2.1mm barrel connector on one end and a right-angle yellow EX1/EX3 power connector on the other. I got the yellow EX1/EX3 power connector from this cable
EXDC1 (http://www.vortexmedia.com/EXDC1/EXDC1_Adapter_Cable/EXDC1.html)
and the Pilot comes with a 2.1mm barrel connector, so you can make a custom cable out of these. Make sure you check the polarity with a meter before you plug it in. The center pin/hole is positive. The right angle is important because the "DC IN" connector on the EX3 is on the right side, and a regular (non-right-angle) connector will stick out near your left cheek.

Also, you'll need an analog composite video signal for the 5.8" monitor on the Pilot's sled. I got this from the "MONITOR OUT" connector, also on the right side of the EX3, so a right angle BNC connector would be best for that as well.

You'll also want to order extra weights for the Pilot. Tiffen should really supply these with the Pilot. Anyway, you'll want to buy 8 of these at $6 each:
Steadicam | 801-7920-05 Middle Balance Weight with | 801-7920-05 (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/552728-REG/Steadicam_801_7920_05_801_7920_05_Middle_Balance_Weight.html)
You'll use more of these with the EX1 than the EX3.

You'll also need a stand for balancing. A regular lighting stand will work, but the SteadiStand is smaller and lighter:
Steadicam | 601-7910 SteadiSTAND for Merlin | 601-7910 | B&H (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/422581-REG/Steadicam_601_7910_601_7910_SteadiSTAND_for_Merlin.html)

More Pilot info here (if you haven't seen it already):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2shQVbvVwQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3PgqKF6ugY
http://www.dvinfo.net/articles/camsupport/steadicampilot1.php
http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/stabilizers-steadicam-etc/115235-steadicam-pilot-getting-started-q.html

Also, you'll need an analog composite video signal for the 5.8" monitor on the Pilot's sled. I got this from the "MONITOR OUT" connector, also on the right side of the EX3, so a right angle BNC connector would be best for that as well.


Excellent info Dave! Much appreciated. I was wondering about which of the many offerings at B&H was the right package.

Is there any reason to try and make the monitor on the sled an HD monitor rather than SD? What I'm learning from all the reading I'm doing on these threads, is that when flying, I'm going to need to use a pretty large depth of field, and keep my focus fixed rather than try and mess with it or my focal length, right? Is that why an SD monitor is sufficient?

It's not practical to "mess with" the focus while flying, you have to set it at a given distance and work within the depth of field (unless you have access to a wireless lens control system, the cheapest of which currently available cost as much as the Pilot).

The Steadicam monitors are intended for framing purposes only, and are quite adequate for that purpose. Unlike most affordable HD LCD's they are designed to be "daylight viewable".

Got it. It is as I thought, and it makes perfect sense. Thanks.

bump........

I'm now signed up for the Pilot/Flyer workshop in San Francisco March 13th and 14th. Any others from DV-Info?

Thinking of adding a Letus Elite to my EX3 rig too. Not sure if anybody is flying those, but I know it takes me out of the pilot running and puts me right into a flyer!

Thinking of adding a Letus Elite to my EX3 rig too. Not sure if anybody is flying those, but I know it takes me out of the pilot running and puts me right into a Flyer!
Combining a lens adapter with a Steadicam is not trivial. Besides the $7K the Flyer LE, using a lens adapter on a steadicam will also require another $4K-$5K for a decent wireless follow-focus system, and an experienced assistant cameraman to run it.

My opinion: Flying with a lens adapter doesn't seem to make sense for most people.

If you have a serious project with experienced crew and a some amount of budget, then you'll probably want to rent a RED One or better. Since the Flyer won't support most RED One configurations, you'll need a bigger steadicam rig to fly it. Steadicam rigs that can support most RED One configurations cost $36K and up. You can start off buying a used Steadicam rig, but these are not cheap either, and you'll still need to buy the other required accessories (Wireless Follow-Focus, Wireless Video Transmitter, Wireless Video monitors, Video Down-converter, lightweight rails, etc). This course tends to lead to a large investment ($50K-$100K), which generally aligns with being a full-time steadicam operator for hire. Alternatively, you could just hire a Steadicam Operator.

If you are experimenting with film making, and have an inexperienced crew, then using a Steadicam with a lens adapter is probably more hassle than its worth. People have inter cut footage using a lens adapter on sticks with footage using no lens adapter on a steadicam, and with well designed shots and lighting, it works out pretty well.

More info here:
http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/stabilizers-steadicam-etc/140598-best-recommended-steadicam-xh-a1-letus35-elite-dof-adapter.html

There's a new budget WFF system coming soon for under $1000US hopefully. Hocus Products (http://hocusproducts.com/) Basic, but it should work for single channel well.

Don't discount the Flyer-LE's capacity to use the RED though :) It's a nominal 8.6Kg load, but most go well over. Mine does almost 12Kg, easily enough for a reasonable RED package for Steadicam use.

Thanks Dave. Good point well made. My production company is working on its second feature length documenatry and pitching a third that we've got in pre-production. While not inexperienced, we are still rather fresh and eager to make our Direct Cinema style films more cinematic.

Using a steadycam for part of our observational shooting is one step in that direction. I'm adding a Letus adapter to our quiver as well, but really for beauty shots and the occasional casual interview we do. From what you say, I don't think flying the Letus will jive with our style. We try to move quickly and light, with a small crew. I think the footage we get from both separately will cut together beautifully.