Set up your cam us usual making sure your live view is on 'Movie Display'.
1/ Switch into live view.
2/ Release the lens 'Push the button' and twist then lens 1-2mm until the live view turns off. You may need to turn the lens slightly more to stabilize the image. (you will see)
3/ Turn on live view.
5/ Using a bright object you will be able to get the ISO at 100 and shutter from 1/40 to 1/8000 then lock it off.
6/ I lit the sink and filmed the water and fast pans to test. It's dark here so I can't test outside yet but it works well.

Notes:
Works best with fast lens's. (Takes more light i.e the sun to force slower lens to shoot fast)
I find with fast shutter speed I get 50Htz light strobing. No control over aperture shows '00' as expected. Be careful not to drop your lens. I think you might be able to isolate the pin/pins on the lens to mimic this. If you cover pin 4 (near the step) it will stay on live view when you twist the lens.

James

I assume that this is for Canon EF lenses. Do you first set the aperture, before twisting the lens?

It would be cool if one could rig wires and a switch. It would make it easy to go between photo and video modes, and would help avoid dropped lenses!

Hi Jon, yes tested with ef lens. No aperture control, lens is wide open. Would work with adapter ring and Nikon lenses with manual aperture control.

I used tape on my contacts. If there is demand I sure someone will knock up a solution.

This has been discussed elsewhere on the Net, but I don't have my cam yet so I haven't played around with this yet.

However, I believe you can gain complete aperture control using a similar technique, but I make no warranty over your camera. Try at your own risk.

Anyway, go into aperture priority (or manual), set your aperture as desired, press and hold DOF preview, and while holding it, twist the 1-2mm like discussed in this thread to disconnect the contacts. The aperture remains where it was, but shows up as 00 still. Or at least that's what I understand.

Give it a try and let us know the results.

Give it a try and let us know the results.

Just tried it and it works exactly as you described, and is a reasonably quick way to set your desired aperture. The lens seems to hold solid enough in this position but I'd only use it in reasonably controlled situations where you didn't have to worry about the lens shifting anymore. Of course this also disables autofocus and image stabilization.

It's nice to know it can be done, but I really, really hate workarounds like this. It's just pathetic that we should have to jump through these kinds of hoops to make a professional tool work in a professional manner.

The sad thing is that Live View Exposure Simulation mode works exactly as the video recording function should; put it in manual and see exactly how every change affects your image as you make it... and then you hit record and watch it all go away, only to return immediately to where you want it as soon as you stop recording. If they would simply enable this mode to record video as is this would be a serious video tool; as it is now I'm not sure if I'll even keep the camera because of the lack of control, workarounds or not.

Is there HDMI output in "Live View Exposure Simulation mode"? If so, maybe we could settle for the 1080i image and gain the manual control & record to another device?

I read in another thread that the HDMI output goes down to 480 lines during video recording. It also has the on-screen menus.

Thats true but just don't hit record. Record the HDMI preview stream itself.

But I just remembered that the HDMI preview has the data overlay...

I don't see how the electronic "shutter" could be really operating at those very fast speeds.

Is there HDMI output in "Live View Exposure Simulation mode"? If so, maybe we could settle for the 1080i image and gain the manual control & record to another device?

I'm sure Canon has worked hard to not give us any high quality output.

I don't see how the electronic "shutter" could be really operating at those very fast speeds.The RED cams will have even more amazing electronic shutter speeds.

If the D90 and/or 5D MkII used the mechanical shutter for video, the on board mics would be completely unusable. If you watch/listen to the samples on the web, there's no shutter noise.

Someone needs to hack the firmware. Any genius hackers out there?!?

Obvious a massive undertaking, but we'd be EXTREMELY lucky to get a 25p firmware update out of Canon, much less any additional manual controls. The CHDK folks have done a tremendous job with DIGIC 3-based cams...

The thing with the 5dMkII is that the features are all there, it's not necessarily a matter of adding anything new, just changing when certain functions are live or deactivated...

...and slowing the capture to 24/25p would be a lot easier than speeding things up!

I don't see how the electronic "shutter" could be really operating at those very fast speeds.

How come? It's an electronic shutter, it can run at just about any speed you tell it to...

I'd be more impressed at a mechanical shutter running that fast since a 2degree shutter would sure have to be precise since your exposure would be off up to a full fstop if it was 1 degree off.

I think 1/8000th shutter = 1.35degree shutter at 30fps.

Maybe you mean the pixel readout rate?

Tiny test at 1/800 f2.2 50mm ef lens.

Canon 5D Mrk2 1/800 shutter f2.2 50mm iso 100 on Vimeo (http://www.vimeo.com/2425650)

That's interesting.

What will be the uses for a fast shutter? The "Saving Private Ryan effect"? Can it be used the other way - to lock in slow shutter?

I'm a little confused about something.

I totally get that I can set aperture, press DOF preview, twist lens to disconnect contacts, then flash light into the lens and lock exposure. That all makes sense to me.

Where I'm getting lost is how you control shutter speed? I thought the cam worked in a limited range, like 1/30 to 1/125? I also thought the camera would be tweaking both iso and shutter speed.

From the description on vimeo, it almost sounded like you were somehow locking down ISO, then able to set shutter speed? How (exactly)?

Or maybe I'm just missing something. But it seems like you've gone beyond spec. How do you know you were actually at 1/8000? I mean the footage looks like a high shutter, but I'm wondering if that is really just 1/125 or something?

Makes sense to me. in bright light, ISO is 100 and shutter speed increases. in dim light, shutter speed decreases until 1/30th and then ISO kicks in as needed up to 3200.

Now the question is is there any way to check what settings are in use? does it tell you what your ISO and shutter are at?

Seems like if you point the camera at a bright light and it is able to expose correctly for it without any ND filtration. Then that's probably your verification that the camera can go past 1/125th shutter. Otherwise, if ISO 100 and 1/125th shutter is the most the camera can do to cut exposure, daylight exteriors would be pretty blown out all the time.

Bill, once you get the ISO to 100 the wheel adjusts the shutter speed. It depends on the amount of light available to what speeds you get.

Its easy to see what I mean when you try it out. That shot on Vimeo was taken at 1/800.

What you can't do is try and hold the ISO at 200 or anything other than ISO 100 and adjust the shutter speed beyond the normal limits.

Hope that makes a little more sense.

Noah, you get all info on screen as usual and when you half press the shutter. The only thing missing is the aperture display '00', but as we set this before lens rotation we know what it is.

Oh, really? thats great! So really all someone needs to do is build a lens cap with a built in dimmable LED. Something like that could even be calibrated so all you have to do is set the led, and unlock and lock exposure while lens cap is on, and start shooting :) .

while shooting, there is an exposure compensation option, right? as you adjust that, does the iso/shutter readout change?

still a bit of a pain that you have to be in iso100 if you want a "normal" 1/60th shutter. itd be great if it changed iso up to 800 before going from 1/60 to an open shutter. oh well

Oh, really? thats great! So really all someone needs to do is build a lens cap with a built in dimmable LED. Something like that could even be calibrated so all you have to do is set the led, and unlock and lock exposure while lens cap is on, and start shooting :) .


There is one. It's made for small video cameras only... It would be great to have a larger one designed for the larger diameter of still lenses, up to 88mm.

You can find it at lytecap for the Canon HV20/HV30 HDV (http://lytecap.blogspot.com)

You can't use a fast shutter without making the video look like crap. ND filters are still going to be necessary.
On the little cams the point of the light is the lens to open up and not increase gain. At least that's how its done on Canon camcorders.
I just picked up my 5DII. I'm psyched.

You can't use a fast shutter without making the video look like crap.

My son just completed a promotional rugby video (DVX) with a moderately fast shutter, and the result was perfect. With fast cuts, driving music, lots of action and short bits of interview, it worked well with just the right amount of judder.

BTW, one trick he used was to render to 24p with the action shots captured in 30p for a 25% overcranked slo-mo. It didn't look slow. It just looked cool.

See, the 30p limitation won't be all bad. ;)

I just picked up my 5DII. I'm psyched.

Congrats!

Picked up my camera last night. Don't really have much to report except on fast lenses the camera would boost ISO instead of going below f2 (on a 85 1.2). I'm trying to not get angry dealing with the pettiness of Canon's restrictions on control.
We haven't talked about CF cards. I'm using the inexpensive Ridata 16GB 233X UDMA. So far no problems. I'll try their 36GB next.

Here's a video they're arguing about on DPReview:

Re: 5D MKII Videos shot in daylight please: Canon EOS-1D / 1Ds / 5D Forum: Digital Photography Review (http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1032&message=30235209)

They don't like the choppiness, but the shutter speed is too high.

It doesn't seem that the max shutter speed documented is accurate. A guy in the dpreview thread said he tried his 300/2.8 and the camera chose 1/320. I've noticed the camera wants to set shutter at 1/focal length.

I've started testing non-Canon lenses and the increased control makes me happy.

The good news may be that this situation is so messed up that Canon has to make some changes.

The good news may be that this situation is so messed up that Canon has to make some changes.
Canon needs to provide better control, unless their goal is to sell Nikon lenses. And they need to do 25p, if they want the camera to do well in Europe. Let's hope they do 24p as well. Blu-ray doesn't do 30p...

Resolution Frame rate
1920x1080 59.94-i, 50-i
1920x1080 24-p, 23.976-p
1440x1080 59.94-i, 50-i
1440x1080 24-p, 23.976-p
1280x720 59.94-p, 50-p
1280x720 24-p, 23.976-p
720x480 59.94-i
720x576 50-i

Here's a pretty good first outing with the 5DII: :)

Lynx on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/2418304?pg=embed&sec=2418304)

The lynx film really shows the strengths and challenges for this camera. The strengths being the great pictures in natural light and the lens options. The challenges being the limited frame rate for slo-mo and trying to maintain focus. I saw at least one exposure change mid scene.

A 2/3" Red Scarlet with a 35mm mount, a follow focus and a big monitor - if that package existed yet - would have been ideal. You would be able to control everything, get nice long shots and have a better chance at keeping focus - not that tracking a moving lynx would be easy even then. And with 120 fps, the slo-mo would have been silky smooth.

But that camera setup isn't available yet at any price, let alone $2,700 sans lens. A similar RED ONE package is available today, but at nearly 10x the price - and it doesn't do 120 fps.

I just put my name on the waiting list for the 5D MkII at a small, local camera store. Hopefully, they get their shipment soon. I like a good challenge!

A 2/3" Red Scarlet with a 35mm mount, a follow focus and a big monitor - if that package existed yet - would have been ideal.

Somehow, I think there is a great possibly that you would have never gotten the shot had you had to have hauled around a monitor with a camera mounted on rails with a follow focus! Although, if you could have, I'm sure it would have looked great. :)

Somehow, I think there is a great possibly that you would have never gotten the shot had you had to have hauled around a monitor with a camera mounted on rails with a follow focus! Although, if you could have, I'm sure it would have looked great. :)

Too true!

Tonight I was thinking about the film, "The Spanish Prisoner." The 5D is the perfect high-quality stealth video camera for the undercover Japanese tourist. A RED ONE on rails just wouldn't cut it!

Even with no physical first/second curtain, there is a limit to how fast the sensor can be read. I can't imagine it can go faster than 1/1000 sec. and probably more like 1/400 as a limit. I'm guessing part of it is camera is not reporting reality.

Recording with the cam as much as is could - I don´t trust the displayed values eighter.

Using the (*) exposure lock, it even displays wrong apertures!!!
I just tried it on my 50mm f1,4 - and the cam displayed f2.0 when wide open and vice versa!

The displayed values are at least not reliable!
And I the feeling that shutter values are complete nonsense - you get even longer shutters than 1/30!!!
Gives you the impression that it diaplays just what it would use if you took a photo during video.

You are right about longer shutter speeds than 1/30. I believe 1/20 is the lowest it can do. It will let you dial values even lower (up to 30 second long shutter) but it won't make any exposure difference in video mode.

It still does not make much sense. It may be slowing down the framerate to allow longer exposures.

I really have not taken the time to measure but I believe the shutter values are accurate down to 1/30 at least.

Gives you the impression that it diaplays just what it would use if you took a photo during video.

Is this find totally accurate?

Check this thread for a shutter analysis. Watch the video to see the results:
http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/canon-eos-5d-mk-ii-hd/140073-5d-mark-ii-shutter-exposed.html

We didn't test 30fps or lower, but posted our findings for 1/40 to 1/500.

In summary
* 1/40 and 1/50 yield 1/45 or so.
* 1/60, 1/80, and 1/100 all yield 1/80, with the 1/100 setting becoming artificially darker.
* 1/125, 1/250 and 1/500 were accurate.

All tested with a Nikon lens at 100 ISO.

You are right about longer shutter speeds than 1/30. I believe 1/20 is the lowest it can do. It will let you dial values even lower (up to 30 second long shutter) but it won't make any exposure difference in video mode.
With 30p, an exposure longer than 1/30s is impossible.
It still does not make much sense. It may be slowing down the framerate to allow longer exposures.
No it doesn´t, audio & movements clearly show that.

Just took the time to do some quick tests. I don't have any charts here so I just printed something. Its only meant to demonstrate exposure with different shutter values.

There is something strange is going on for sure. It must be manipulating the framerate or the values are wrong. I did not try any movement test. One other possible explanation is that past 1/30 it only adjusts gain.

ISO value remained at 3200.

You might be right about only manipulating gain. From my tests of 1/60, 1/80 and 1/100, the smear is the same for all three, but the gain varies.

One other possible explanation is that past 1/30 it only adjusts gain.

ISO value remained at 3200.


The LCD display only shows up to 3200, but according to the instruction manual (page 123):


For movie shooting, the ISO speed is set automatically. ISO 100 is set as standard, then it can increase up to ISO 6400 (expandable to H1: 12800) for low-light conditions.


When you enable ISO expansion and shoot in low light, you'll see that the image brightens even more (as the LCD shows slower than 1/30 speed) but becomes noisy.

If the LCD shows around 1/15, it's 6400.
If it's 1/8, it's 12800 (if ISO expansion is on).
But the actual shutter speed is 1/30.

Anything above 3200 becomes noisy, so I try to keep my shutter speed (indicated on the LCD) not dip below 1/30 (by underexposing using the exposure compensation dial).