I've just bought my GL2 and now have my eyes set on getting some kind of light...

the cuter VL3, or the VL-10Li?

what do the masses say? are there any other lighting system - short of a studio lighting kit? (in a wedding video context).

It depends on how much light you'll need. The VL3 can give you just enough punch to light a face or two for a close head shot. The VL10 throws a bit more light and runs off of a BP battery independently of the camera. It can be very handy due to that independence.

Neither are powerful enough to really light a wider scene.

Once I tried to go into a bar to film something and everything was fine until I shined that Vl10 on everyone - suddenly it all stopped and I got the impression they thought cops or news media was there or something. It attracted a little too much attention for my taste. :) So there is something to be said for a more low-profile light. Frankly I'd get both, and a huge halogen light that plugs into a wall outlet that actually will light a whole room too.

My friend is still mad at me for shining the VL-10 in his face for an interview...

I had the same problems. They either provide too little or too much light. I now have oput a very thin white fabric in front of the Vl10 and it not only spreads the light better it also helps to keep your friends ;-)

I'm also looking at buying a light(s) for my GL2. I need something for a wedding reception. I always find that the lighting on the dance floor is too low to get quality footage. Is the on camera light the best way to go? And is the Canon vl-3 and/or vl10li the best, or are there other good options/products?

From the discussion here, it sounds like one needs both vl-3 and vl-10li?

I'm too considering an upgrade for my VL3. It's good, but only 3watt. Ken is correct. It does close work - forget about background. Used in conjunction with Manual Focus - you should be doing this already - you/I can get some "better" results.

When the project 2allows=££££", I'm really thinking the PagLight 6kit. It's got Barn doors and other options. Plus I believe some diffsuing filters. Drawbacks? NiCad. You can read the spec here at: http://www.paguk.com/paglightc6.htm .

The really nice thing with this system I suppose one coud detach it from the cammie and weither you or an assistant could "wave" it about. The price over here isn't that extravagant, so a smallish project could pay for this piece of kit.

The other thing I haven't as yet ask Pag, is the option of connecting a battery belt. Oh yes you can have it with its own supplied/included 20watt OR go up a step to the 30 watt.

Any good?

Grazie

Im one also condidering a GL3, though generally looking to learn about lighting. Im stunned by the range and cost of professional lighting. I did notice that my indoor household light bulbs give off a particularly unpleasant orange glow on film, that i suppose could be 'warming' should one desire that effect. However a cheaper bulb from the pound shop gives a daylight glow, and looks so much better. Can a similar principle not be applied to hand style torches or using halogen lamps for ameteur/ makeshift lighting? Is there a special type of bulb that one can use that produces a better light? Or filters?

<<<-- Originally posted by Michael Connor : Im one also condidering a GL3, though generally looking to learn about lighting. Im stunned by the range and cost of professional lighting. I did notice that my indoor household light bulbs give off a particularly unpleasant orange glow on film, that i suppose could be 'warming' should one desire that effect. However a cheaper bulb from the pound shop gives a daylight glow, and looks so much better. Can a similar principle not be applied to hand style torches or using halogen lamps for ameteur/ makeshift lighting? Is there a special type of bulb that one can use that produces a better light? Or filters? -->>>

good question

ive since been told that the halogen floodlamps you can buy very cheaply run at the correct colour temperature, and indeed do the job of more expensive lights??! All i need is some filter paper or a screen apparently.

When I've had to use halogen work lights, they've been better bounced off some polystyrene sheets. Either that or build a frame and attach some Lee diffuser material. You can clamp this about two foot from the lamp. A "Magic Arm" from Manfrotto is a great piece of kit for holding things like this. It's great for clamping small lamps as well (or mics - practically anything around the set.There's no point in sticking some "scrim" just over the lamp itself. It'll get very hot and it won't have the big enough area to diffuse properly.
Another useful source of cheap but effective lighting is the IKEA stores.
They've got a range of small MR16 halogen spots that can clamp on shelves etc and provide a great little kicker or backlight.
If you can get to IKEA, see if they've got the ISBRYTARE lamp in stock. It's a 50watt halogen projector lamp with gobos, dichroic filters and a lens. You can throw shapes onto the background - there's even a window gobo, which really gives the effect of light coming through a window frame. You can even cut your own shapes as required.
There really are lots of reasonably priced lighting solutions out there if you know where to look. Happy hunting!

Robin.

Thankyou, this is excellent. I saw the amazing impact gobos can have at a seminar at the wembley video forum. With regard to the halogens and polystyrene, do you mean using a big sheet of it as a reflector (as oposed to shining it direct)?

Michael ,
I meant that you should bounce the light off the poly. You might have to construct something to hold it, or lean it against something .
Robin