Someone's comments in another thread got me thinking about this. Could people share their tips and techniques for handholding camcorders? I'm often frustrated with the results from my VX2000 because, evidently, I'm just a shaky kind of person. What kinds of things do people do (aside from sticks, monopods, shoulder mounts and the like) to achieve stable handheld shots?

I'm all for leaning against something solid in most situations. As long as there isn't too much movement, find something to lean against- it will help to steady your shots.

This is some of the stuff I try to do to stabilize my shots (XM2)..
But, It usually depends on what kind of shot I´m trying to use.

1. - Keep my elbow sticked to my body most of the time.

2.- When I use the viewfinder, my head works as support.

3.- When possible I lean my back to anything that can hold me.

4. - When not in specific use (focus, etc)... my left hand helps holding the front of the camera just below the lens, but then I got to balance the force of the two arms not to jiggle the shot.

5. -Depending on the shot.. y use the handle, it works beautifully, but is limited to a few kind of shots.

6. - When In need to walk, I just walk different... I probably look like a dork... but it helps a lot... I´ts like stealth mode.. I couldn´t explain in words.. but after a while my knees hurt.

7.- Before shooting I do some transcendental meditation, and ask the Gods to let my body become a tripod. To get a steadycam I need to sacrifice a small animal.

Keith and Frederico made very good points. It is all about using your environment to your advantage, but here is a good way to look at it:
In order to make the shot steady, you have to make the camera steady. Normally this is done with a tripod. So you want to turn yourself into a tripod. This may sound dumb, but its how I do it. Think to yourself, "If I were a tripod, how would I hold the camera?"
The first step is to get a firm foundation. Basically, you only have two of the necessary three legs, so create the third. Leaning against a wall is a great way to accomplish this. For lower shots, kneel down with your knees apart, while sitting on your feet - each knee plus your feet equals three points of contact with the ground. If you're sitting down, brace your elbows on your knees and hold the camcorder to your eye. I'm sure you've got the idea by now, just remember to establish a "three legged" approach to your shots.
Another good stabilizing method is to pull your elbows into your chest like Frederico said. People have a natural tendancy to shoot with elbows out to the sides because its more comfortable. It also puts all the camera weight onto your elbows which tend to act like little spring hinges. By tucking them in, tight to your chest/body, you are using your entire body (much more rigid construction) to stabilize the shot.

Take a couple of relaxed deep breaths, exhale 30% and don't breathe, keep both eyes open, but look only through your right one, now squeeze gently but firmly.....

Hold on, that is for a different kind of shooting :-) :-)

I like to hold cams with the bottom of the cam resting in the palm of my hand and the LCD facing up. (visual guide: karate chop yourself in the stomach and then put the camcorder in that hand, that's how I hold it)

I like it better because in that position, my arm acts naturally as a stabilizer and it's less fatiguing - especially if I'm doing a lot of standing. Plus I can get fairly stable pans with my waist, while my wrist makes smaller correcting adjustments. If I walk steadily, I can get some decent dolly in/out shots, once again with my wrist and elbow making smaller correcting adjustments. Or some very short crane up/down shots.

I also like to wear my backpack on my chest using the same method. I get a little more stability that way when I gently rest my hand on the backpack.

Actually, now that I think of it, the only time I hold cams the way they're designed to be held is when I'm testing them out in a store ...

I hold my XM2 with the right hand in the strap, but the left hand holding the barrel for focus and stability.

Aaron

for most bmx videos i find that when following something a fisheye lens makes the steadiness job alot easier, especially since you have to go fast enough to keep up with the rider.

Tai Chi, anyone?

I'm new to this, but I think it has a lot to do with where your focus is. If you're really paying attention to and are interested in your subject, your senses aren't so confused about what to do , where to go. Set your body up as you must, but don't think about YOU too much, stay with your subject, your body movement will follow....This means knowing your camcorder well, the controls, as well as the weight and dimensions. Once that stuff is internalized, your camcorder is more an extension of you, and it's not so weird or awkward. So carry the sucker around with you, in your hand, and shoot all manner of movement. Then playback, and make yourself noxious, you and you're body will want to correct and be as it needs to be. Although I've never flown a plane or a helicopter, I liken it to something akin to that, where you aren't paying attention to the controls themselves, you're engaged with where you're going. Forgive me if my sense of flying is way off, but that's where my imagination tends towards.

Good thread, by the way.

While stable handheld shots are your goal, using tripods is the only way to get a truly stable shot.

Frequently I have to shoot out of a moving vehicle or hand-hold for long periods while sitting or standing.

If I can, the way I do it is to flip the LCD viewfinder (PD150) back against the body so I can see it. Then I hold the camera like a log sort of up against my chest with my arms squeezed inwards but not rigid. My left arm cradles the lens, the right, the butt of the camera.

That way I can hold the camera for a fairly long time because I don't have all that weight out in front of my body. When in a vehicle, I can slide my arms up and down and allow friction with my chest to dampen their motion while they counter the dips and bumps my butt follows as is sits in the vehicle.

If I need to operate the zoom in this position, I can put an L-bracket to good use by exending it to the rear of the camera and placing my StealthZoom on it.

The downside? The tendency to tilt the camera in or out which causes the image to, well, tilt. But once I do it for a few minutes, I get the hang of it fairly well.

The control is good enough that last year, when I needed to dolly along a school property for about a half-mile, I was able to kneel in the passenger seat of my van while it was driven steadily along the street. While it isn't as good as if I had laid down track and pushed a dolly along, it was more than acceptable.

Personally, I think the layout of these cameras is all wrong. Their long dimension should be vertical so we can hold them in close.

I never hand-hold my cameras. Whenever they start whining about not knowing what to do I just slap 'em and tell them to act like adults.

Actually, we had a thread last year on this topic, and it's a good topic to feature.

I think that Shawn's "tai chi" remarks are right-on. Unlike the 15-20 lb shoulder brick crowd we're generally working with lightweight and low mass cams. Concentration on the goal rather than the mechanics are everything in creating steadier hand shots.

I generally hold my GL2 and DVX100 lower and closer to, and centered at, my midsection with the camera cradled in my palms (similar to Michael's method). I manipulate the main zoom rocker with my right thumb. On occasion I will hold the camera from the top handle. Holding the camera lower keeps it closer to my body's center of gravity (a more stable place), keeps good circulation in my arms (they stay below my heart), and applies more and better-coordinated muscle groups to the job. It also allows me to brace my elbows against my torso for better static handheld shots.

But I think it's far more important to find a method that seems reasonably comfortable to you and then practice as much as possible. Like any other physical task that requires dexterity you must train your nerves and muscles to do the job and then keep them in condition.

Which brings me to perhaps the point that I believe is most essential; get in reasonably good shape and stay that way. Aside from helping to maintain your general health and spirits, good physical condition is essential for stamina and coordination.

Do a search, all I use is the Mighty Wondercam Mini Rover. It's the best $50 you have ever spent.

OH, the other approach I use is to hire a younger cameraperson.

I think handhold can be quite effective, especially in franatic
situations like a riot / war etc. But, most pro's seem to take
the camer "handhold" by placing it on their shoulder!
This does allow them to give it a bit more lively feel, but not
have it jump all over the place. Sometimes they also have two
handles below the camera to handle it better and also
stabalize it a bit futher. I'm gonna see if I can make something
myself for the XL1S, would be nice to have.

B&H seems to have such a thing (note: I haven't tested it, so
I don't know how well this works or doesn't!). Check it out here (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=229479&is=REG&BI=155).

There is also a less expensive version from Varizoom here (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=206346&is=REG&BI=155).
I imagine it will be harder to hold with only one hand(le) though.

According to most manufacturers, it seems that consumers want smaller and lighter camcorders. And that gives shaky handheld shots! A bigger and heavier one is easier to hold and operate.

After fifteen years with a low-end consumer camcorder, I ended up using the tripod ALL the time. I've come to hate my handheld shots, and the Digital Image Stabiliser doesn't help much. It's a bit better with a wide-angle adapter over the lens.

But one way to develop the right posture and move for handheld shots is to practice with... a BOWL OF HOT SOUP!
You can't shake that without getting burnt! And it demands the same kind of moves to maintain proper horizontal stability.
So the next time you go to a Chinese Buffet, go back and forth from the buffet to your table with your Won-Ton soup and try different postures!!!

For handheld I use the marzpak™. Now I hang on, shoot and
have fun while the marzpak does the "work".

http://www.marztech.com

PS I am affiliated with the company ;)

For me I can handhold a 20 pound shoulder mount camera rock solid, but I have a more difficult time with the lightweight "handycam" type cameras. Most of the above suggestions are good, especially keeping elbows in. I also take a deep breath and exhale slowly while shooting. If you have to breath in, you usually get a camera motion. Of course the number one thing is to shoot at a wide angle. The minute you zoom in, you're screwed for a solid hand held shot. Best thing to do is get some kind of shoulder mount, as Beasleigh suggested, if you need to do a lot of handheld work.

I'll second the Marzpak, it's the best money i ever spent. You actually get more for your dollar on this one. Superb workmanship and great customer service. The rig really works.

For a low cost and hands only I had mentioned the mini Rover., The mini rover is a grip that allows you to add a mic and /or a receiver as well as maintain a steady grip on the camera.

With the mini rover held to your chest, your upper arms and elbows are locked into your upperbody. The only way the camera can shake is if your whole body shakes. The camera moves in concert with your whole upper body and you can reduce even a heaving ship or bumpy jeep ride to a controlled roll.

For $450 you can have the whole enchilada, the MarzPak and the Mini Rover.

For an extra few bucks the MarPak has an add on fanny pak that will hold 8 cold ones and two king cans , one on either side.
You can strap a whole lot of gear to that puppy and carry it in comfort.

Like I said , this thread has been repeated more than a few times. Using search will open up a lot of info. It's easier to search than type in all of the same info every few weeks.

> 6. - When In need to walk, I just walk different...
> I probably look like a dork... but it helps a lot...
> I´ts like stealth mode.. I couldn´t explain in words..
> but after a while my knees hurt.

Oh this really rings a bell with me. My knees now *always* hurt after I shoot with my PDX10, I seem to be walking in a way that put's a lot of strain on my knees and lower back. Perhaps that is subject matter for another thread but I still would like to ask... anybody here have experience dealing with the knee pain?

All the time but it has nothing to do with the way I walk holding a video camera.
If your kness hurt doing the Groucho walk loosen up a little but remember walking like that for an extended period of time is not really how our legs were made to work. Keep your shots shorter OR you might need to look into some sort of vested stabilising device.

Don

i went through this a few weeks ago, i got a new camera (dvx-100a) and the shots were beautiful but shaky.

everyone told me to get a mini-rover but i resisted, i finally got one and i wouldn't give it up for anything.

there is that stupid looking thing you were on your back and the camera dangles over your head, but a steadi shot isn't worth looking that stupid :)

matthew

Mathew
The Marzpak's beauty is in the eye of the beholder. The workmanship is fantastic and the rig looks very professional, it also works a damn site better then any of those shoulder mounts. The braces with the dual arms mounted at arms length are nothing but a cool looking backbreaker.

That was the best value I've seen so far as video gear goes.

I believe it was me that turned you onto the Rover and now you tell me I look stupid. Oh well. I forgive you. (My Mum taught me how to use guilt :)))

FWIW, I know that Marzpak, or a similar cable suspension device, is rather popular with full-size camera operators. In their case I believe that the attraction is principally that of load redistribution.

"In their case I believe that the attraction is principally that of load redistribution."

It puts the load on your hips.

I´ll mention three reasons why I might use handheld.

1. - Sometimes I might just want to blend in with the tourists... The XM-2 VX2000 or whatever allready looks to big... Even a MiniRover will make you stand out too much. But still I want to get the best shot possible.

2. - Sometimes I might be "The Tourist".. I still want to get a great shot. And probably I won´t be packing a tripod to haul around. I´m a very light travel tourist.

3. - Handheld shots are an artistic option, the same as a travelling or a crane... When used right they can be very powerfull.. but just because it´s a handheld shot it doesn´t mean it has to be "shaky" like lot of wannabe Dogma style I´ve seen around.

How about a helmet cam fastened to a set of glasses?

i think a helmet cam, or better yet a full size camera on a football helmet would look more stylish, would get all of those people with the marzipan thingie jealous!

matthew

Two and a half years old, but still an excellent thread. Stuck.

One way to get some reasonable smooth handheld shot is by eating some bananas. ;-)

Regards
Leigh

I think I mentioned this before somewhere relating to the PD150?

I find I don't use the palm strap a lot. I have this sense that my sweaty palm will somehow contaminate the tape in its bay underneath.

I tend to use the camera with a modified Bolex H16 hand hold, left thumb under the carry handle, index and third working the zoom rocker, fourth and fifth working the focus and zoom rings, right palm beneath with fingers forward to work the focus and zoom ring if not already using the fingers of the left hand.

It takes a weird pivoting on the heel of the palm and a contortion to button on and off with the right fifth fingertip.

The fact that I am both left-handed and right-handed, am one of the minority with wrong eye dominance for lefthandedness (also forced to righthandedness in school on risk of a painful rap across the knuckles with a ruler edge) and a musician, may be a factor in this unorthodox method.

This handhold favours an angled crossbody posture with the camera and I tend to use the LCD viewfinder more than the eyepiece.

When handholding in an aircraft, I tend to support the bottom of the lens hood wit the heel of the left hand, use left thumb and fingers index and middle for the zoom and focus and palm of right hand under the rear base and battery with right 5th finger to button on and off.

I don't use the eyepiece viewfinder when being agile-portable as this tends to introduce a rear anchor point. Any movement of the camera provoked by vertical motion of the aircraft has a radial element introduced by this rear anchorage, whereas when using the LCD, the movment remains more parallel and you can stay closer on the shot.

The arms partially extend in this position tend to work parallel and absorb some roughness somewhat like a steadycam. It helps to add a little mass to the baseplate of the camera with the tripod mount bolt hole, as much as is comfortable to hold over a long period in thatposition and also not so heavy as to become a hazard.

The camera in an aircraft should also be restrained with a stout lanyard fastened to the airframe to pull it up short before it can incapacate the pilot if things becomes exciting and momentarily uncontrolled. This is also a good move in motor vehicles working off-road.

Brace your elbows into your chest and put one or both hands far out on the lens. This also works for using big binoculars.

Bob, can you point me in the direction of the Bolex H16 hand hold? Haven't been able to find what you're referring to. I do nearly all my doc work handheld for a number of reasons and arm fatigue - especially with the heavier Canon XH A1 - is always an issue. Have been searching for just the right type of support that will allow me to keep the camera in my hands but can help "carry the load".

Larry.

The Bolex "handhold" I refer to is a method of holding, not an actual piece of hardware. I'm sorry if my careless use of words had misled you.

I am left-handed but also a bit crosswired to righthandedness, so my way of handing right-handed cameras is a workaround.

The Bolex does have a handgrip, but it is a pistol style grip and run trigger which fits underneath the camera on the tripod grip. This style of grip would be useless on the XL.

My method is a sort of left-handed way of using the camera which I carried over to using a CP16 handheld after the Bolex.

The Bolex has a palm strap but this is high on the very top of the camera body.

I carry the modern cameras around by the overhead handle by the left hand with the lens facing backwards, then swing it up and around onto my rght shoulder, use right hand onto the normal grip.

I don't think this is unusual but my firm supporting grip is with the left hand on the camera from overhead, not with the right on the normal grip handle.

This is an awkward posture to look at but conserves my right elbow and wrist joints which get a bit sore (age and arthritis) from the constant twisting action one adopts to keep the camera horizon correct.

I keep my right hand for manual lens adjustments and supporting grip of the normal handgrip but not always under the palmstrap.

Finger 4 or 5 of the left hand I use to press the top run button. Thumb goes under the overhead carry handle and fingers 1 and 2 stay over the top in a firm grip and correct the horizon.

I recently had a bit of a play with a JVC HD100/Mini35 combination. The owner has also fitted P+S Technik's added adjustable arms and handgrips. They look like a set of mutated bicycle handlebars.

I looked at them initially with some suspicion but found in short time they were very useful. The left arm and its handgrip can be lowered to rest on centre chest, the right arm and its handgrip can double as the normal right hand hand grip.

In combination with the left-hand overhand grip on top of the camera body, I can use the thing all day and remain steady and it doesn't kill my right arm joints.

The handlebars can also be used as an impromtu tripod at groundlevel or on a higher uneven surface like a sandbag wall as the arms can be adjusted in many arrangements.

With the JVC HD100 you have to be careful as the battery on the back ends up carrying some of the mechanical load if you tilt the camera up to steeply.

That's what I like about the XL and its side mount for the battery, out of harms way.

I have seen other similar style of add-on handlebars. I think there is one published from time to time on top of the main portal to this site for one of the sponsors. Spider brace I think it is called.

If this is as adjustable as the P+S, it would be a very useful means of reducing arm fatigue.

Zoom out to as wide an angle as you can without distorting the image. If you need to, get a wide angle adapter.

Brace your elbows against your body, use the viewfinder and make all pans by pivoting from the waist, rather than using your arms.

Use your body to move in and out rather than the zoom.

Walk as if you're holding a very hot, very full cup of coffee.

I use this recipe for superior handheld shots /

1 Draught Glas
2 Redbulls
2 tots Read Heart Rum (approved by the heart foundation )
2 Bioplus tablets.

Herman.