I've watched the growth of DSLR with a combination of real interest and curiosity, amazement, admiration for those who do it well, and fret -- fret over all the potential pitfalls. A year ago, I went the XF300/100 route and am very happy with that.

Still, I am really thinking of getting a first DSLR camera at least to dabble with -- at first just on my own, but then perhaps to add into the wedding mix -- (not for the ceremony yet, where audio/focus/long roll all pose lots of challenges to someone without a big crew), but mainly for bridal prep, setting shots, rings, photo shoot, etc.

I'm wondering if folks could weigh in on the best starter video DSLR -- all around -- in the Canon line... 60D ? T3i? 7D?

And, given that, could you recommend 2 starter lenses (again, just for getting feet wet and experimenting). 50 mm prime? Canon 17-55? Tokina 11-16? Any thoughts would be very helpful. Looking to stay around 2K for this initial feet-wet experiment, including the couple lenses if possible. Mainly monopod and glidecam 1000 shots, by the way, to start.

If it helps, my sample reel (with the XF300/100) is below, just in case it helps to see my style:

2011 HD Montage | Timothy Bakland Videography on Vimeo

I thank you -- any and all -- for weighing in.

price wise , the t2i is still the best choice since the basic features are all there and you got MagicLantern to fiddle with. If budget is a bit stretchable, T3i offers a little more, but nothing that could change your life versus T2i.

The GH2 give a lot better, but it is almost wice the price.
Since the camera body is only30% of the equation, you need to carefully study the complete rig pricing, because lense, shoulder rig, and others accessories can make a huge difference.

A nice little 'starter' package would be a 600D, Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8, and a Sigma 30mm f/1.4. You could even add a super-wide to that for those amazing steadycam shots - something along the lines of the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 or the Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5.

Hmmmm... the 60D vs. the T3i. Any thoughts?

And thanks guys for the help all ready.

Giroud is dead on, bodies come and go but glass you buy for a lifetime.

I just got a Nikon D5100 to add to my Gh1s. I got the Nikon because of the 2X crop of the GHs, making indoors kinda tough using the GHs. I ordered it with with the 18-55 kit lens and am doing my comparison testing this weekend. Already I have seen the crop factor work both against, and then for, the GH1s.

My suggestion would be start with the kit lens for a couple of days of playing around, then look into investing in the glass you feel you need. You will probably find you want that wide zoom, but the 50mm might be too much lens, depending on where you want to use it. You also could find out like I did last night, 55 isn't quite enough, for some situations.

Good luck and welcome to "the dark side", as some around here might consider DSLR shooting. :-)

Thank you, Chip and all.

Very helpful. It sounds like you are plugging the T3i for starter (if it can be afforded over the T2i). Would I miss the controls of the 60D (for video-sake)? That is, is the couple hundred bucks more for the 60D worth it for video sake?

The T3i/600D is $300 cheaper than the 60D but still has manual audio control & the articulated LCD screen. It also has the excellent HD 3X crop mode which effectively gives you a telephoto zoom for free. The money that you save on the camera will enable you to buy a Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM lens & still stay within budget. Use a monopod rather than a shoulder rig & get a cheap but useable loupe like this one LCD viewfinder loupes for Canon EOS 60D 600D rebel T3i | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-viewfinder-loupes-Canon-EOS-60D-600D-rebel-T3i-/140591452131?pt=US_Viewfinders_Eyecups&hash=item20bbe74fe3#ht_2121wt_1165) (because of the articulated screen of the T3i you need a loupe that mounts on a frame secured by a tripod screw)

Thank you, Nigel. I'm with you on the T3i -- that argument makes sense. But would the expensive canon lens you mentioned be as good as getting a couple somewhat cheaper lenses and including a prime in there?

Magic Lantern is now available for the t3i/600d - I've loaded it and are playing now - looks sweet!

I am not sure if or how this might translate to Canon but as I was looking at Nikons the "guy" in me LOVED the buttons all over the place on the D7000. The D5100 seemed kinda "whimpy" after you looked at the D7000. I then read two back to back reviews on Amazon that extolled the virtues of the D7000 and then point bank said "but the complexity can be overwhelming to the more novice shooter". I heeded that advice and this D5100 is still complex enough, even though I thought I knew something from using my GH1s.

Very nice show sampler!

I agree with others here. I just started with DSLR myself and chose the 600D mainly because of the flip screen (it is very handy!) Even with the flip screen I can attach a viewfinder for working outdoors. You don't need any screws for the viewfinder as someone else here suggested (at least mine doesn't).

As others have said, the body is only one small component of the price. The lenses are where the $ must be spent. The faster the better. Don't waste your money on anything slower or smaller aperture than f/2.8 unless you add lighting.

I am fortunate that there is a place in town here where I can rent some Canon primes. I recently tried the Canon 16-35 f/2.8 and I would have to say this is one of the most versatile "video" lenses to mount up with a crop sensor camera like the 600D.

With a DSLR it's very important to have good camera stabilization (shoulder support, mono/tripod). With a heavy lens like the one above then you need to think about counterbalancing. Recently I added a 5 pound ankle weight bag to the back of my shoulder rig to balance the camera, rode videomic, and heavy lens. With the counterweight on my back I was able to shoot steadily all day long.

Hope this helps!

Thank you, Nigel. I'm with you on the T3i -- that argument makes sense. But would the expensive canon lens you mentioned be as good as getting a couple somewhat cheaper lenses and including a prime in there?When I bought my Canon 600D I went cheap & bought the Tamron 17-50mm F/2.8 VC instead of the Canon 17-55mm F/2.8 IS as it was half the price of the Canon lens. I returned the Tamron the next day as it was so inferior to a decent Canon lens. The IS was really noisy, the AF was slow, the focus & zoom rings rotate the wrong way, you need to slide the switch from AF to MF when manually focusing or you fight the AF motor. There were probably other things that bugged me that I don't recall now but the Canon lens is just so much better that it is easily worth the money even if it did cost more than the camera. This lens is very good & would likely qualify for Canon's 'L' designation if it were not an EF-S lens. With the 3X HD crop mode of the T3i/600D you can do almost all your shooting with this one lens. If you need something for really low light the Canon 50mm F/1.8 is really cheap although plastic with an awkward focus ring.

I am fortunate that there is a place in town here where I can rent some Canon primes. I recently tried the Canon 16-35 f/2.8 and I would have to say this is one of the most versatile "video" lenses to mount up with a crop sensor camera like the 600D.I have this lens & the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM lens which I would choose over the 16-35mm any day on a crop mode camera. The 16-35mm is great on a full frame 5D Mk II but compared to the EF-S lens it has a shorter zoom range & lacks IS plus it costs 50% more.

No doubt the Canon 17-55 IS is a great lens, but in my opinion it is better to save some room in your budget for other lenses. For the same price as the Canon 17-55, you can get the Tamron 17-50 (non-VC version, which is sharper) and a Tamron 70-200 or a Tokina 11-16.

The Tamron 17-50 is a great lens - read some reviews on the web and you'll see it is a favorite amongst those more budget conscious shooters.

As others have said, the one essential accessory is a viewfinder of some kind - this will not only help you to see the screen in bright daylight, but also give you an extra point of contact with the camera for extra stability.

Thank you, guys. Lots to consider here. I definitely see the plus of having a very good quality multi-use lens. Lots to think about. Like I said, I'll start simple and just get my feet wet with work on my own, and see where it takes me. Sounds like, if I am able to afford it, the T3i with the Canon 17-55 plus a prime would not be a bad way to start.

John -- your suggestion is certainly tempting, too. Like I said, lots to consider.

Any thougts on the Canon T3? It only shoots 720 but from what I read, some of our colleagues shoot in 720? It is less than $ 600 brand new. Really debating Nikon d3100 vs t3.

Pros D3100 shoots 1080, Cons I would have to invest on Nikon lenses. T3, Pros affordable, wife has Canon lens at my disposal. cons 720 only.

I was this close to buying the GH1 but somebody beat me to it on Craigslist.

Your insights greatly appreciated.

Magic Lantern is now available for the t3i/600d - I've loaded it and are playing now - looks sweet!

Hi John,
Have you tried monitoring audio through the mini USB using Magiclantern? From what I've read, this is not yet available on the T3i. I currently have a T2i and have the ability to do this. I am considering an upgrade but will not unless I can monitor audio on headphones.

Hi John,
Have you tried monitoring audio through the mini USB using Magiclantern? From what I've read, this is not yet available on the T3i. I currently have a T2i and have the ability to do this. I am considering an upgrade but will not unless I can monitor audio on headphones.

Hi Brian, nope - I don't have any usb headphones. The audio level meters are working with ML - but personally I would never use a DSLR for audio - I use a variety of mics hooked into a Zoom H4n for sound.

Noel, if you want a GH1 that is non-hackable I have one in the classifieds, along with a Sigma 30mm f/1.4, adpater, and other stuff. I shoot four of these cameras in 720p and I am absolutely loving it. I know 1080p is better, etc, but 720p handles so well on the timeline. I edit four lines at a time with little trouble. Very smooth.

I have 3 GH1s and 2 GH2s, and am trying to raise funds for a zoom lens, hence the equipment sale.

My first lens was Tamron 17-50 f2.8 VC. No complaint picture-wise, in fact I reckon its one of the sharpest zoom lens I've seen. But the focus rings fail.. I cringed everytime I rotate it.. its just not smooth enough. If you have budget, I'll vote for Canon 17-55 f2.8.

Even with that lens alone could get you started playing around with the DSLR. If you want something else.. try the nifty-fifty 50mm f1.8 or if you're brave shooting the speeches with DSLR, get 85mm f1.8 or 135mm f2.0 then you'll get to see how sharp DSLR images could really get with these lenses. :)

Noel, if you want a GH1 that is non-hackable I have one in the classifieds, along with a Sigma 30mm f/1.4, adpater, and other stuff. I shoot four of these cameras in 720p and I am absolutely loving it. I know 1080p is better, etc, but 720p handles so well on the timeline. I edit four lines at a time with little trouble. Very smooth.

I have 3 GH1s and 2 GH2s, and am trying to raise funds for a zoom lens, hence the equipment sale.

Thanks for the offer Jeff. I decided to trade in my VX2100 at a local camera store. I am getting $ 700 for it which will land me a t2i.

Cheers

Camera is gone. Good luck, I just can't imagine going without an ariticulating screen. The t2i doesn't have one, am I right? Nice cam, just a bit outdated ergonomically, I would think, but it shoots great images. I have an acquaintance and all she complains about is the screen on her camera, I think she has the t2i, but I might be wrong.

Camera is gone. Good luck, I just can't imagine going without an ariticulating screen. The t2i doesn't have one, am I right? Nice cam, just a bit outdated ergonomically, I would think, but it shoots great images. I have an acquaintance and all she complains about is the screen on her camera, I think she has the t2i, but I might be wrong.

I got rid of my T2i bc I got spoiled with the articulating viewfinder of the 60D. I use the 60D more than my 7D just bc of that viewfinder.

If I wasn't committed to the GH2 thing, I would jump on a 60d in a heartbeat. Great camera.

This won't be very helpful, but looking at your sample-reel i fail to see what you will gain from getting a DSLR! Your work is artistically stunning already.

That's very kind, Jordan. Thank you.

Here's the thing. I'm not looking to make any major stylistic changes (that's part of why I posted the show-reel, to see if folks thought some supplementing of dslr could help/add.

I've just been so drawn to the look of what I see in some of the best DSLR (not overkill by any means -- where the whole thing becomes about changing depth of field constantly, etc.), but to use judiciously and for creating beautiful shots.

So... I thank you again for the kind words and for everyone else who has helped out and chimed in on good advice. I settled on the t3i 600D with a Canon 17-55 lens and a Canon 1.4 50mm. That should be plenty ample for what I have in mind to start. Test shots look gorgeous. Now I've got a real dilemma on my hands. How to use this new thing without jumping too quickly in over my head...

This won't be very helpful, but looking at your sample-reel i fail to see what you will gain from getting a DSLR! Your work is artistically stunning already.


I was reading through all the replies and was waiting for someone to say this.

Tim, I agree with Jordan. You've got some absolutely stunning footage that would rival any of a DSLR, with a less-problematic video camera.

Nevertheless, it sounds like you've jumped pretty quick on some choices. You'll be taken care of with that gear, but now need to see if DSLR shooting's your cup of tea. Good luck.

The years 2008-2012 will go down in history as the "the years of limited panning", because any panning with a DSLR beyond snails pace is pure garbage.

If you study the wedding highlights videos of the top DSLR people, all scenes with fast moving camera movements are either slowed down from 60p (losing their filmic qualities), or they were panned at a snail's pace and sped up (again, no filmic qualities). Most of the top shots using DSLR's don't pan at all.

This is still a transition phase, and most people won't admit that the DSLRs limit freedom hugely.

Many shops use HDV prosumer cams when they have to do jib or crane shots.

It's because of that point, Jeff, (and, by the way, I'm sure that will inspire some good healthy debate among the DSLR-ers on this forum), but it's because of the limitations of the DSLR (if indeed there are, and there must be, yes), that I am only going to dabble at first and mix in.

I really do value the ability to "play" and be spontaneous with my shots (XF300 is great with that, especially with the iris ring and zoom ring right next to each other). Yes, I try not to zoom too much because I know that is "out" these days, but I still do like those quick, spontaneous movements. So... if I can't do that comfortably on the DSLR, (yet to be seen), then I'll really only by using the DSLR for beautiful setting shots, glidecam and glidetrack.

The years 2008-2012 will go down in history as the "the years of limited panning", because any panning with a DSLR beyond snails pace is pure garbage.

If you study the wedding highlights videos of the top DSLR people, all scenes with fast moving camera movements are either slowed down from 60p (losing their filmic qualities), or they were panned at a snail's pace and sped up (again, no filmic qualities). Most of the top shots using DSLR's don't pan at all.

This is still a transition phase, and most people won't admit that the DSLRs limit freedom hugely.

The ugly panning has nothing to do with the HDSLR's. You can pan a DSLR at exactly the same speed as any other camera that shoots 24p/25p (which is most prosumer cams these days), or a film camera for that matter.

Shoot at the appropriate shutterspeed, and you'll never have problems with too much or too little motion blur if you are shooting properly. It's only when you start panning wildly that you get problems.

Regarding rolling shutter, I've never ever seen it on any reasonably paced pan I've shot (ie any pan that I would actually include in a wedding video). The only time I see it appear is when I do a whip pan to quickly frame up a new subject, and I know I'm going to cut around that pan in post anyway.

The DSLR's are less forgiving of crappy camera work. If you don't follow some of the basic fundamentals of cinematography, (stabilise your camera; 180 degree rule; 7-second pans from one side of the frame to the other, etc) then they will expose your flaws. And if you are breaking these rules, regardless of what camera you use, I think you deserve to have your flaws exposed.