I burned a GL2 hot swapping directly to my computer. Canon fixed it under warranty but I got really paranoid about connecting it after the repair. Shutting the computer down to connect the camera was a real pain. I then purchased a Canopus ADVC100 and discovered that the 4 pin FW connector on the front was not a pass thru. I connected the Canopus 6 pin to the computer 6 pin with the power off on it and the computer. Now I just turn the Canopus and the camera off to make the 4 pin to 4 pin connection. Never had a problem since.

Just an observation: IIRC USB also supplies power and I have never heard of anyone having problems hot swapping USB devices.

Regards,
Jerry

Jerry - I guess using the Canopus ADVC100 would be like me using the Kramer Firewire Isolator - it's far from ideal rebooting the computer every time you wish to connect the camera.

Bit of info on the Kramer PT-1FW - (Spark-Guard Pro DV Line Protector)

The Kramer PT-1FW is a tiny device - installed between two cables - that solves a huge problem in DV studios (or in any other professional or home DV application). Often - when connecting a "live" DV source to a receptor - an electrical potential difference or any other element creating high voltage (such as ESD or a live chassis) may cause permanent damage to one or both of the connected devices.


This high voltage may be seen as a spark occurring at the instant of connection, or may not be seen at all, but nevertheless it can result in costly damage. The PT-1FW is installed between two cables; does not need a power supply; and suppresses all transient high voltages down to the permitted level. It is a "life-saver" for studios and other DV applications using the 6 pin Firewire connector.

That's apparently how I blew my HDV firewire--fumbling to plug the cable in, I touched it upside down. It is easier to do than you'd think. I'd have to say I'm now a believer.

Some FireWire PCI cards use a spare floppy drive power connector to source their pass-through power. All I had to do is disconnect that to disable power out the 6-pin port.

(Of course, now I can't recharge my iPod through FireWire anymore, but it's a minor inconvenience compared to potentially buring out the HD100.)

Both the Kramer line protector--
Bit of info on the Kramer PT-1FW - (Spark-Guard Pro DV Line Protector)http://www.kramerelectronics.com/indexes/item.asp?name=PT-1FW


--and the port isolator mentioned by Carlos--

http://www.abelcine.com/store/product.php?productid=11112&cat=252&page=1


sound like handy things to have even if you are consistently following JVC's instructions for connecting Firewire.

But they are different devices (and different prices) and I'm horrible with engineering so I don't understand which is more appropriate/desirable. Can anybody give a little info on these?

I also could not easily find a place from which to order the Kramer in the U.S.

Both the Kramer line protector--http://www.kramerelectronics.com/indexes/item.asp?name=PT-1FW


--and the port isolator mentioned by Carlos--

http://www.abelcine.com/store/product.php?productid=11112&cat=252&page=1


sound like handy things to have even if you are consistently following JVC's instructions for connecting Firewire.

But they are different devices (and different prices) and I'm horrible with engineering so I don't understand which is more appropriate/desirable. Can anybody give a little info on these?

I also could not easily find a place from which to order the Kramer in the U.S.

I'm not sure the port isolator would do the job (it sounds to me like it only tackles power and not static or earth potential differences - hence it is a six pin device). Kramer (who make broadcast equipment like routers and switchers) seem to have better technology built in to actually inhibit any transients. No doubt they are more expensive :-(

The Kramer PT 1FW was about £70 - pricey but when considering the cost of what it is protecting, money well spent I reckon.

I actually ordered one of the Kramer spark-guard boxes a few months ago. I think it was from B & H.

It didn't work. It didn't seem to pass the signal. I called Kramer about it and left a message; got a return call left on my voice mail and it was garbled and impossible to hear.

I have not had time to contact Kramer again and find out what was going on--I just returned it because apparently (maybe) the thing doesn't work with HDV HD signals--only DV stuff.

That's really only a guess, but you may want to watch out for this if you buy one and you are using an HD100.

i'm always flipping that DV to HDV switch while the camera is ON. And I plug the firewire into the camera with the camera OFF but the computer ON.

No problems so far.

i'm always flipping that DV to HDV switch while the camera is ON. And I plug the firewire into the camera with the camera OFF but the computer ON.

No problems so far.

You're playin' with fire! (pun intended)

Hi, I really recomend turning all off. I own a PowerMac G5 and it has blown not only a canopus ADVC100 but also my JVCHD100, BE really careful with macs!!

You're playin' with fire! (pun intended)

Thanks. I'm gonna change my evil ways...

The one that surprises me the most is the dv/hdv switch. Wouldn't think that'd be damaging...

Some responses here say the port isolator solves the issue, cuts the power rendering it equivilant to a 4 pin. Others are saying, no, even with the port isolator you still need to shut both down.

Which is it?

I ain't buyin' it. Can you zorch stuff? Oh yeah! Have I? First time I turned on my new G5, I felt the static discharge leave my finger and poof. No mac. But only for a few minutes. Whatever flipped, flopped. SO I was fine. Whew.

I wonder - out loud - if it isn't all about static discharge - and NOT hot-swapping. If you can set your Jeep on fire (http://youtube.com/watch?v=b3x-8tj49ac) at a gas station w/ static, surely you can zorch your camera - but who is wondering if this blonde had her car running while fueling? Did she plug the filler neck in upside down?

Maybe....but I bet each of you zorched your gear another way, and just assumed it was hot swapping. I'm willing to sit corrected, but...zzzzaaaapp!

Jeff

Just so I'm not corrected, the original post lost it's meaning in my reply. Hot swapping w/ a particular camera that has particular issues - sure. I'll buy that. But not generally.

I have not had time to contact Kramer again and find out what was going on--I just returned it because apparently (maybe) the thing doesn't work with HDV HD signals--only DV stuff.

That's really only a guess, but you may want to watch out for this if you buy one and you are using an HD100.


Anybody else back this up? I haven't used an HDV signal with the Kramer box yet but I won't be happy if this can't, for whatever reason, pass a HDV signal...Carl - does this ring any bells?

Would sleep mode in the mac constitute a full powering off?

Anybody else back this up? I haven't used an HDV signal with the Kramer box yet but I won't be happy if this can't, for whatever reason, pass a HDV signal...Carl - does this ring any bells?

Would sleep mode in the mac constitute a full powering off?

I'm not a Mac user, so I don't know. Can a Mac owner answer this question?

Dave and Carl,

When I put my mac to sleep mode the firewire drive that's getting power from the bus goes off as well. So, I'd say sleep mode is the same as powering off (at least on the firewire side). One weird thing, I thought that my mac killed the HD100 firewire port. I plugged the HD100 to a WinXP machine and it worked. It's FW port still doesn't work on the mac (the mac powers other devices fine). Go figure! I just ordered a port isolator to remove my anxeity.

George

Cheers George. Be handy if Sleep mode was fine...it only takes a second to spring back to life.
Thanks.

I'm going to ask this naively, because I'm praying to God this isn't the case. I've tried connecting my HD100 to my Windows computer, a Mac laptop, and an IMac. None of the system recognize the camera. I've tried with a 4 to 6 and a 6 to 6 and neither of those work. Do I have a blown port? If so, how much does it cost to get repaired and how long does the process take?

Edit: Is there anyway I can test it to make sure whether or not it's blown?

I'm going to ask this naively, because I'm praying to God this isn't the case. I've tried connecting my HD100 to my Windows computer, a Mac laptop, and an IMac. None of the system recognize the camera. I've tried with a 4 to 6 and a 6 to 6 and neither of those work. Do I have a blown port? If so, how much does it cost to get repaired and how long does the process take?

Edit: Is there anyway I can test it to make sure whether or not it's blown?

Have you called JVC support? (See sticky at top of forum for instructions)

Carl, yes. But it's after hours and I'll have to wait until tomorrow morning. In the meantime, I'm enjoying a minor coronary.

My Sony DSR-11 has a little label on it that says "DO NOT hot-swap firewire" -- I made the label because one of the first things I did with it was to burn out the firewire chip.

Firewire has never been reliably hot-swapable see:

http://www.wiebetech.com/pressreleases/FireWirePortFailures.htm

http://lowendmac.com/misc/03/0421.html

Hey Peter, you're from Lewisburg? I'm from Schuylkill County myself.

About all this firewire subject, i can afirm that JVC released a service bulletin in order to change the 6 pin IEEE plug for a improved one, which avoids REVERSE insertion of the DV cable. A great number of damaged Firewire ic's (integrated circuits) was due to wrong insertion of the cable. I've seen some ic's with a hole in it!
Despite this measure, for better protection, is always better to power-off the camera before inserting the cable.

Regards

Love to get one
Been trying to order one for weeks from Firewire Depot every time i email them, to they come back with still waiting for them to be shipped to them
does anybody know if there is another place to get one.
went online found a place called Capture Integration the firewire port isolator
almost looks the same as the one at firewire depot the price was double
but that was ok, but when i called the place to order the sales persons
this firewire was for Still Cameras only
So if anybody knows where to get one
please email me.
Thanks
Joe

Sorry i repeated my thread

Order my port isolator today
they got them in stock today
Joe

Is this firewire connecting a concern with the HD200 cameras?
On a recent shoot, I used the firewire to transfer time code data from a Sony DVCAM to my camera. I always shut mine off, although I didn't see any mention of doing this in the manual. Sometimes the Sony was on, sometimes off. Should both cameras have always been off when connecting the firewire?

Hi Glen
Yes firewire is an issue with 6 pin firewires.They give a warning in your user manual.
you should always turn off all devices when connecting or disconnecting devices. or take the risk of a fried firewire ports
I just bought from (FIREWIRE DEPOT) a 1394a 8 inch port isolator
this will help with problem

Joe

I have a Buffalo 500GB DriveStation Duo which has both 4 and 6 pin firewire connectors. The 4 pin is connected permanently to my laptop. The drive is turned on and off as needed and never hot swapped.

Would it be ok to connect the spare 6 pin on the drive (see http://www.buffalotech.com/images/products/duo-back-lg.jpg for a picture) to my HD111E and then switch both devices on?

This way I could keep my laptop on all the time and I am not technically hot swapping. Maybe I could also get a power isolated lead (anybody know where I can get one in the UK?) to help isolate the power.

I have a Buffalo 500GB DriveStation Duo which has both 4 and 6 pin firewire connectors. The 4 pin is connected permanently to my laptop. The drive is turned on and off as needed and never hot swapped.

Would it be ok to connect the spare 6 pin on the drive (see http://www.buffalotech.com/images/products/duo-back-lg.jpg for a picture) to my HD111E and then switch both devices on?

This way I could keep my laptop on all the time and I am not technically hot swapping. Maybe I could also get a power isolated lead (anybody know where I can get one in the UK?) to help isolate the power.
I can't see how this wouldn't work. Might require a bit of experimenting with a multimeter to ensure all power and data is isolated when the drive is off.

I'm really interested in an answer to this. I'd do a similar thing with my firewire drive if this is an option.

I fried my JVC HD100, it cost $2800 to fix because it's the main board that's fried. Thank god for insurance. Any suggestions on where to rent a 720p deck in Australia in the meantime? I have some footage of a concert I did for free but I don't want to spend $300+ to capture footage of a concert I shot for free.

Will,
Maybe others can help as I don't have a 720p camera. I'm pretty sure most sony 1080i HDV cameras will also playback 720p footage, but I don't think it will output them through firewire (according to the manuals) - only composite/s-video as SD. Might be worth trying if you can get your hands on a sony HDV, but I don't like your chances.

Like I say, maybe others can help..

I had a little JY-HD10, Was working great (you can see a clip made with it here: www.sighter.com) BlackEnd...

When I finished that shoot I went on a location to start capturing the shoot on a little iMac (the new one). When I aproach the Firewire Cable to my external HD I got this powerfull sparcks!! with smoke and everything coming out of the external HD.... (The cam busted. Would cost more to repair than what it cost)

later I learned that any electronical equipement you have to link together HAS to be on the same Wall AC outlet.. The tech at my service repair told me that even if the outlets are in the same room it doesnt mean that they are on the exact same phase and if you get to link equipement via Firewire it is extremely risky to do so if they are not connected on the same wall outlet.

If someone outthere have a more technical approach to explain this come forward, I just learned that and maybe I am not explaining it perfectly with my "Quebec" accent... hehe

Maybe a lot of you outthere already knew that but this is for those like me who didn't...

-Sighter

Too bad people are still learning this the hard way. I know somebody who fried several firewire hard drives in the early days because he believed them when they said they were hot-swappable. I came from the old "scssi" Avid days and learned then to always power down things before unplugging, so I've avoided this problem. Manufacturers should put something in the manuals that says to power down first, I think.

The hardware can handle it. Follow the instructions. Don't hotswap. If JVC tells you don't do it, and then you do it and you break it, now who's fault is that?

If it gets your goose that much, then buy a 6pin to 6pin that doesn't pass power.

It's JVC's fault. Telling someone not to hotswap is not enough. It's another in a long line of examples of cameras manufacturers that don't care enough to actually try their gear before mass release.

Call me paranoid, but it's ok, I am.

Is there any advantage to be gained from using and isolator on BOTH ends of the equation? i.e. isolator into cam, into firewirecable ,into isolator, into computer.

And what about the ferrous core magnets attached to the firewire cable. The manual wants them as close to the inputs as possible.

It just dawned on my that Sony's betacam sp PVW video decks will blow a fuse if the unit is powered up and one plugs the remote TBC unit either in or unplugs it. So I guess the firewire issue actually has precedence in earlier video decks.

So I take back my prior sentiment almost completely.

Call me paranoid, but it's ok, I am.

Is there any advantage to be gained from using and isolator on BOTH ends of the equation? i.e. isolator into cam, into firewirecable ,into isolator, into computer.

There is no advantage - once the power is isolated it is isolated. I would advise turning off the power regardless.

Thanks John!

Then what about the ferrous core magnets. Should the isolator go at the computer end or camera, or is there any difference?

There is already a large sign posted (by me) at the editing desk...."POWER DOWN DUMBA**" I need these kind of reminders or I get sloppy.

Thanks John!

Then what about the ferrous core magnets. Should the isolator go at the computer end or camera, or is there any difference?

There is already a large sign posted (by me) at the editing desk...."POWER DOWN DUMBA**" I need these kind of reminders or I get sloppy.

I have firewire cables with and without the magnets. The magnets that came with the JVC Camera seemed particularly pointless as they weren't wide enough to loop the cable through - if you can't loop the cable then they won't work. The cables that came with magnets have them at both ends.

Run off battery and use a decent surge protector /power filter on all your PC and hifi gear. Use your isolator and follow the protocol (the idea of the isolator is actually to give you hot swap capability but I wouldn't risk it). That should keep everything clean and safe.

All the firewire cables I've seen have magnetic suppressors at both ends. The point of the magnets is NOT to suppress shorts, but, rather to suppress RF interference. They won't do squat to save your firewire bus from a short.

Ahhh thanks John, I thought I was having a bad day when I tried looping the cords through tiny core's

Ive got a couple of firewirecords without magnets (unless they are built into the flat housing) so Ill go to my Bundles n More guy and get some good ones. Still gotta find one of these isolators, two if one for my laptop as well....

We just blew the port on our GY-HD100 with a Firestore. With these units, we are plugging and unplugging constantly. The operator may not have noticed the camera was on. I just have no idea.

Is there a cable M/M out there without the voltage pin active? Would that work. The port isolators here look like M/F adaptors.

o.k., I think I may have blown one of my ports. One of my GY-HD 100's doesnt connect via Firewire anymore. How much is the fix?

Randy

$1995 , I paid $1395 couple weeks ago after the discount .good luck

$2,000!!!??? are you kidding me? Well I guess im using tape. I cant pay that. I was going to get a on board HD but not now. Thanks.

[QUOTE=Randy Johnson;802612]$2,000!!!??? are you kidding me?

the same thing i said until i got the discount .

Im not worried about my home system, I planned on getting the Firestores next year. Im more worried about blowing the port in field. If got that cable would that eliminate the poetential for that problem? I can get a 4 pin Firewire card for my home editing system too if it will help. So this is from the power in the computer? or the camera? or both?