i'm using the hoodman 300 right now. the strap closest to the camera has to be stretched a little further to accomodate the swingout hinge, but it's wrapped on tight and very stable. a must when using the lcd and shooting outdoors during the day.

Henry,

Can you read my post on 24F SD and let me know in this thread?

Thanks bro.

hey matt... just saw your post here. i already replied in your thread.

you can capture 24f sd footage to a 60i timeline using 2:3 pulldown, and export to tape on any 60i deck.

i'm using the hoodman 300 right now. the strap closest to the camera has to be stretched a little further to accomodate the swingout hinge, but it's wrapped on tight and very stable. a must when using the lcd and shooting outdoors during the day.

Thanks, I'll order an H300.

Just a note on attachments.
There's no way to attach a stud to put a light or monitor on it. Hot shoe only. You could clamp something to the vertical part of the top grip, but the grip itself is chock full of controls, so you can't clamp to it.

The mic holder seems to be 7/8" -- it's smaller than a sony holder, but bigger than a sennheiser shotgun. Time to get out the gaffers tape.

Check out K-Tek's adapter. It's basically a cylinder that inserts into the microphone holder with a 3/8" screw on the end that you can then extend with any number of grip gadgets. The trick is figuring out the size. I emailed K-Tek and they didn't know. The dimensions aren't listed on the K-Tek website, but I found the diameters here: http://www.thebroadcastshop.com/sales/show.asp?subcat2=86&lbl=Shotgun%20Mounts%2C%20Windscreens%20%26%20Accessories . If the inside dimension of the XH-A1 holder is about 7/8", then it looks like the K-BWJ (.85") is the closest fit. My camera should come in next week and I'll probably get one to check out.

JP

You're talking about the daylight vs. tungsten WB switch. Agreed. This is shaping up to be my single biggest complaint about the XH. It's an important switch that has definitely been put in the wrong place. There is a work-around however. Dial in a custom WB setting for Preset Position A of 3200 degrees Kelvin. Then dial in a custom WB setting for Preset Position B of 5600 degrees Kelvin. Problem solved... you've now successfully relocated the daylight / tungsten switch where it belongs, at the expense of giving up the custom WB settings.

Thankfully there's very little else to find fault with.
Chris, could you please elaborate on this method? I can't figure out how to K-dial anything for a Preset Positions:(

You're right. Was I hallucinating when I wrote that? Maybe.

You can use warm cards or other-color bounce cards to cheat the preset positions into the colors you want; and the default Daylight and Tungsten settings can be tweaked up or down by several steps... although I have no idea how many degrees Kelvin each step represents. We'll have to find out.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that the (K) Color Temp is a separate function unto itself & useful for example, if one knows the Kelvin Temperature such as studio lighting, etc. you can just dial it in & does not change default values for the daylight & Tungsten selections.

On page 62, it states there's auto white, indoor & outdoor, 2 manual modes (A&B) & color temperature setting (based on Kelvin degrees) which says is in 100 degree increments.

Bill