Can I test my XM1 for colour accuracy?
 

Hello,

Sorry i don't mean to hog this forum but I have so many questions and you are all rather helpful!

I am not convinced that my Camera is showing colours properly. I have had it serviced recently and they changed the heads/drum assembly (and hopefully calibrated it) however all my footage seems to looks dull and lifeless. I think it should have more colour to it.

As the camera doesn't have a test signal built in and I don't have any fancy test pattern cards does anybody know how I might do a simple test to see if it is roughly ok?

Thanks in advance.

Alex

i do it by eye to be honest, but make sure saturation is turned up first, or do some boosting in post.

GL1 Device Control?
 

Umm, yeah. I was just wondering if there is any device control setting on the GL1, as I couldn't find one. I know the GL2 and the XL series cams have this feature, but I have been unable to find it on the GL1, so am I correct in assuming it simply doesn't have it? My situation is this. I use a Firestore FS-4 to record tapeless, but would like to use the Stop/Start button on the GL1 to initiate the Start/Stop on the FS-4. Without Device Control on the GL1, is this possible?

Sorry if this doesn't belong in this forum, but I thought this was the most fitting place to ask.

Thanks

Hi Brian,

Sorry, the GL1 and XL1 do not have device control. That feature came starting with the XL1s. So I'm afraid you are stuck with manually starting and stopping your Firestore unit with that camera.

-gb-

Cost Benifit of repairing GL1
 

Hi,
I have owned a used GL1 for over five years (I'm guessing the camera has almost 8 years of usage under its belt) I recently encountered massive amounts of artifacting and pixel shifting that seemed linked to motion (both camera motion and object motion). I also noticed that after recording, the tapes had a slight concave that had not previously existed. While the GL1 is my back up camera (my primary camera is a GY HD 100) I wanted to repair it or replace it promptly. I sent the GL1 to Canon and asked them to take a look at it and give me a repair cost estimate. The e-mailed me back and told me that a repair would cost about $600.00.

I have been very happy with my GL1 but I am wondering if $600 would be better spent upgrading. After 8 years can I expect the camera’s other parts to function reliably for another few years after a repair? Should I repair or should I upgrade to a GL2?

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

-Michael Anderson

Maybe save up some money and go for a maybe slight used GL2?

24P fr DVX100-Playback on a GL1?
 

Does anyone know if you take a tape shot on the DVX100 in 24P and put it in a GL1 for capturing into a computer, if it will work? Any problems with this?

Thanks!

Kevin

Yes. It will work. No problem. 1's and 0's.

The DVX inserts pulldown when it writes to tape, so the 24p will look like regular old 29.97i to the Canon.

is all dv cam capable of playing back 24p
do you have any loss in quality

Dv is DV is DV is DV is DV. The data format is the same no matter whether it was shot on a $4000 XL2 or a $300 ZR-25. NTSC DV is 30 fps interlaced, 720X480, @ 25mbps. It will play back on any DV camera, regardless of the frame rate, aspect ratio, etc. that it was shot at, and with zero loss of quality.

Cameras (like the DVX100 and XL2) that can shoot other frame rates and aspect ratios basically work by taking the 24p data and fitting it into a 60i stream, because that's all the DV specification allows. Since all DV is technically exactly the same as far as any camera or playback device is concerned, you can play it back on any camera, no matter where or how you shot it.

Used GL1 prices
 

Hoping this is the right place for this question.

What would you (folks) say is a decent price on a used GL1? I'm seeing them average $1000 on ebay. I found one locally for $1400. I haven't seen any used at any retail stores.

Doesn't the local one seem a bit high priced? If all other things were equal (extra equipment, usage hours, condition), what is a reasonable price?

I ask because I'm looking to get one, not sell one, by the way.

I don't know what the market rate is, but I wouldn't pay nickel over $800, and it would have to be in excellent condition.

Keep the price under $1K
 

I would suggest when buying a used GL1 that you keep your budget under $1000.00. I agree that if the camera itself is in excellent condition then $800.00 is a limit, but if accessories are being offered then pick them up to.

Chad

.
 

there two for sale locally where i am one at 900 one at 950 and thats in canadian dollars...
again based on actual condition its hard to juge but the one at 1400 unless its fully loaded with extras sounds high
concidering if you look around enough you can probably find an XL1 for about 17-1800 US
hope this helps

Thanks everyone
 

Just wanted to say thank you to everyone who replied to this thread. You guys really saved me a lot of money. I actually stumbled across a camera today on craigslist locally and after checking it out (ffwd, rwd, play, record, playback on tv, sound), i went ahead and purchased it for $400.

Didn't come with manuals (but i downloaded those already). I'm not sure what all was missing from the original oem equptment, but no original box. The camera seems to work great though, and the guy i got it from said he shot less then 20 hours on it.

Thanks again for saving me $1000 !

~ Lisa

I would look for a used Optura Xi, around $500. Has native 16:9, which the GL1 or GL2 don't have.

GL1 - Remove Built-in Mic?
 

Can the built-in microphone be removed or replaced on the GL1?

I'm sure you can google up some instructions on how to remove it, but I'm not sure I see why you'd want to. You could always just not use it and connect another mic to the 1/8" input (using a beachtek if necessary).

I don't think you're going to find anything through Google on how to remove it, but why would you want to anyway. Is it interefering with a matte box or some other lens attachment?

Actually, I was just hoping to replace it. The metal cage on mine is slightly damaged (mic still works though) and was hoping that there was a simple way to replace. No biggie though, just wanted to ask. After listening to some sound tests from onboard mic vs aftermarket, I think i'll just buy an aftermarket mic and not worry about the "ugly factor" of mine.

Thanks guys for your input.

Yeah, replacing it is a job for a Canon service center. Your best bet is the external mic anyway.

GL1 to Disneyland?
 

I'm taking a trip to Disneyland and Six Flags (in CA) in about 3 weeks. I've been debating on whether or not to take my GL1 with me. It is going to be a huge trip and a lot of fun (about 10-15 people in my group, 4 days). I'd love to get footage of the tip an compile a DVD or something for everyone.

I'm just worried about my precious camera. How delicate is it? Obviously I wouldnt want to take it on a ride, I don't think they'd let me anyways. But does it seem safe to take it at all? I could take my consumer miniDV (Panasonic) and I would feel safer, of course I would suffer less quality video.

What's your opinion, would you take your GL1 or GL2 with you to Disneyland?

The GL1 will be fine. On our 5 day stay at the Disney resort, I took my HD100 through Animal Kingdom and Epcot. Aside from being wore out by it, it was great. The GL is a lot lighter, more compact, and you can get a WA58 for about $100 for those wide shots. Make sure you have plenty of batteries and tapes.

By the way, I should have the shipping cost for your remote tonight. Sorry I haven't been able to get it to you sooner. Or would you like to just call it $5.95 and I'll cover the diff?

I worry too much?
 

I guess the camera should be fine as long as I keep my eyes on it and keep it out of the water right?

Where are you shipping that remote from? I thought it would be under $5

I'm shipping from Florida. The box should weigh in at 1LB, and I think that is like just under $5 3day select. But, my scale is on the fritz, so I'm not positive of the weight.

And yes, make sure you have a good waterproof bag for the camera. It does tend to rain after spending $60 to get into Disney. My bag was soaked, and the camera itself stayed fairly dry, but it was damp in the bag.

I carry my camera in a Kata camera case for when I need to put it away. And I carry a plastic bag in the case to put the case in when it starts to rain. My Sony FX1 survives just fine. I carry a tripod in a sling across my back so I can get into my own shots.

I have some amazing shots of my wife and I with various characters. The tripod makes the shots I take worth watching. No shakes. Besides, you can hand off your still camera for people to take your picture (we do that for people every time we go) but it is difficult to hand someone a movie camera and ask them to shoot your movie for you. Of course, I also volunteer to do that quite a bit.

I am happy to now live near Orlando so I can get full use out of my annual pass. We go quite often. I wonder if I could make some spare change shooting a family's vacation for them? Follow them everywhere and shoot them doing everything. I doubt Disney would let me if they knew what I was doing, but it would be an interesting thought. No?

Hey Steven- Since you have the pass, go to Animal Kingdom, and you can arrange for a VIP photo safari. It is about $50 a person, but they have a seasoned guide take you behind the scenes, where the regular tourists don't go.

I have thought about that. I figure I will wait until it gets a bit cooler so the animals are a bit more active. There are a few behind-the-scenes tours around the parks that interest me. I may even do the one on the Segway around Epcot one of these days. But for that I guess I would need a helmet cam.

Japanese GL1, what's it worth? Should I bother?
 

Hey guys, I've found a very low priced Japanese GL1, well I think $500 is low, only used lightly in a studio on a tripod, with decent accessories included, and I've downloaded the english manual. If I pick this up, it will be for a backup camera. So my first question is, has anyone ever seen or used one? I've heard of plenty of japanese VX1000s that people figure out fine. How much would you spend on a well maintained, lightly used setup like I've described? I'd appreciate any advice or helpful information.
-ben

2nd hand from Japan
 

Dear Ben,

I can find quite many Japanese 2nd hand computers, digital cameras and sometimes DV cams in Hong Kong. I bought a 2nd hand IBM computer and a Canon G1, the IBM computer is OK but the G1 is not too good since the red in the pictures is purple. I later exchange the G1 for a 2nd hand G3, which is working fine. Buying such stuff is like a gamble.

Regards,

Kenneth

FWIW: there is an internal setting on NTSC GL1s for North America or Japan. Changing it requires the RM-95 Remote Commander modified to provide service adjustment features.

GL1 wont power up
 

I cant get a Gl1 to turn on. Either in camera or VCR mode. It is not in LOCK. Batteries are fully charged. Any ideas?

It needs to be sent in to Canon Factory Service in Jamesburg, NJ.

Canon Factory Service
100 Jamesburg Road
Jamesburg, NJ 08831
tel: 732-521-7007

Try power supply?
 

Did you try connecting the camera to the power supply rather than batteries?

True, try a different power source, if that doesn't work, follow the godfather's advice.

we dont have a way to power direct to the camera... only a charger for the batteries.

Isnt there a way to take it locally instead of sending it out and waiting forever to get it back?

Need Help Opening a GL1
 

A friend has a GL1 that has a problem with the tape transport controls.

In VCR Mode, the tape transport controls do not work, but the transport does work while capturing.

I believe this is a problem with the ribbon cable, specifically, at the connection in the handle to the group of switches.

I have found where the ribbon cable from the handle area plugs into a connector on the right side of the GL1.

I have not been able to disassemble to handle to get to the other end of this ribbon cable.



Don posted this previously:

Actually, the stock mic is fairly good for a build-in mic. Problem is no mic is going to sound very good if more than a few feet from the talent, and more direcitonal mics reduce potentially unwanted sound from the sides. The stock mic is stereo with a cardoid pattern 45 degrees to left and right of center, so pick up is fairly wide.

Getting to the mic capsules is a substantial undertaking. It goes something like:
remove bottom cover (6 screws)
remove left cover (6 screws)
remove top cover (3 screws)
remove the "U" cover (red plastic around LCD pivot)
remove handle unit (8 screws)
Then you disassemble the handle unit
remove excessory shoe sprint
remove a cable protector plat at back of handel (2 screws)
separate handle top and bottom (7 screws)
Working on the handle top
remove accessory shoe (2 screws)
remove one screw from a connector CN453 to remove the mic unit.

Note that the screws are various sizes and types, so be careful to keep them in order and in the proper locations.

You can order a service manual from Canon parts with photos, etc. that might help in the process



I have successfully removed the bottom cover.

I have not been able to remove the left cover. I have located and removed the six screws and a seventh under the transport cover. But the cover seems to be held down near the mode control dial.

I have found three screws for the top rear (dark color) top cover.

Any help will be appreciated.

Just to be sure, the left cover is on the left as you look into the lens. It contains the tape tramsport door. It also includes the 5-conductor ribbon cable from the start/stop/standby/lock switch in the left cover.

Three screws are to the front of the camcorder (one by the mic jack, one on top and one under.)

and three to the rear (one above the IEEE1394 jack, on under the tape door, and one by the earphone jack)

Dear Don,

Thank you for the additional information.

I was using the wrong frame of reference. I was thinking left meant the LCD viewer side, thinking of a frame of reference as one would hold the camera with the lens pointing forward. I will adjust my thinking.

I have been able to loosen, but not remove the LCD side cover, and have been able to completely remove the transport side cover. The LCD side cover appears to be held down near the mode control dial. I expect that this will be solved when I am able to remove the top rear cover (a dark plastic part).

I have not been able to remove the top rear cover, in my terminology this is a dark plastic part, that the EVF slides into.

I do not have the camera in front of me at this time, but I remember removing a screw near the IEEE1394 jack and one under the tape door. I do not remember removing one by the earphone jack. I will check on this as soon as I get home tonight.

I really appreciate your assistance. I expect that the switch block to ribbon cable connection is the problem.


Is the "Top Cover" the dark plastic part at the rear of the camera, the part that the EVF slides into?

How does one remove the red plastic "U" cover?

Don, I really appreciate your assistance.

Dear Don,

Just to be clear, here is my progress. I will use your terminology.

The bottom cover has been removed.

The left cover, the transport cover has been removed.
(Three screws are to the front of the camcorder (one by the mic jack, one on top and one under.

And three to the rear (one above the IEEE1394 jack, one under the tape door, and one by the earphone jack)

Now I have removed the top cover, a white piece of plastic directly under the front middle of the handle, in other words, the white piece of plastic on the body of the camera, directly under the photo button on the handle?

I have the handle loose, but not completely apart from the rest of the camera. How do you separate the top half of the handle from the bottom half in order to get to the switch block?

Don, I want to thank you again for your assistance. I would not have made it this far without you.