Another observation: In addition to not having zebra stripes, the LCD display is very high contrast (at least to me) and there's no adjustment for it other than the brightness of the backlight - highlights look clipped on the LCD even when they're not really clipped in the video. I think they do that so that the LCD is more visible in bright lighting (outdoors), but it means that without zebra stripes, the usefulness of manual exposure might be somewhat limited unless you happen to be using an external monitor while shooting (assuming the camera outputs video during record mode, which I don't know if it does).

I made some changes to my setup:

I added an Azden SGM-X shotgun mic. I picked that mic because it is one of the smallest shot gun mics and has the right connector (mini plug, no XLR). Also, the shock mount fits into the mini-shoe by filing off a tiny amount (about 1mm on each side) of the plastic holder. Since the shock mount has a rubber suspension, handling noise from touching/operating the camcorder is not an issue anymore as the rubber suspension absorbs these vibrations very effectively. I still use the AT Pro24 stereo mic when I need a stereo signal. Both mics give excellent audio.

I also added a Hoodman HD-300 16x9 LCD hood which is fantastic! Shooting in bright day light is finally not a problem anymore. I highly recommend the Hoodman.

A kept the Cokin Series A filter holder (poor man's matte box) and added a few filters. I think the size of the Cokin Series A is perfect for the cam, so I'll def keep it. I might add a second modular hood.

Overall, I am very happy with the setup.

Chris,

When I push the photo button halfway in Tv mode all I get is a flashing red icon indicating that it's not in photo recording mode. I don't see any indication of the f/stop setting. Any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong?

Thanks,
Paul

Nevermind....
 

I had to enable the still photo capability while in movie mode. Thanks for the great tip!!

Wouldn't the gun mic be blocking your zoom controls? How do you get around using the zoom then, via the remote?

I can still access the zoom controls, no problems, but I am thinking about mounting the remote on the fluid head's pan bar.

That'll be a perfect choice. However, the infrared LED on the remote, has to be aligned with the LCD (sensor) for it to work properly. I remember someone has "hacked" an infra-red to work on a small tubing (or is it?) and work flawlessly, no matter where the infrared LED is facing. But that was another camera!

I'm still rigging up my RODE VideoMic onto my HF-10. Oh by the way, mine's the 25p version.

The problem with the remote is that the zoom has only one (fixed) speed, so I prefer the control on the camcorder.

"Hacking" the remote so it works no matter if there is a line of sight to the lcd screen where the sensor is located is a great idea! Do you know where I can find that thread? I think it would be simple to attach a fiber optics cable to the remote and connect it to the sensor.

Look in the HV20 threads, there should be some pictures and ideas for a remote hack in there! Basically a short digital optical cable, one end on remote, other on camera... bingo!

So I'm ready to shoot my documentary :-)

Would you recommend that I shoot in 1920x1080 or in 1440x1080 if the documentary is intended for film festivals? My editing suite is Final Cut Express 4, which I believe doesn't support full 1920, or am I missing something? It seems that the 1920 mode of the HF10 is interpolating between pixel (so it's not native 1920), so the native resolution isn't any better than 1440. So my question, I guess, is:

Is 1440x1080 a high enough resolution for film festivals?

Thanks!

Anyone notice screen lag on HF10/100 LCD Viewfinder?
 

I've had my HF100 for about a week and am generally very happy with it. But my camera has a very noticeable screen lag - probably .1-.2 seconds. At 1st, I thought it was the image stabilizer. But it persisted with the IS turned off. For handheld shooting it wasn't much of a problem, but when shooting telephoto on a tripod, it was impossible to make tiny movements b/c I wouldn't get any feedback until after I started the move. Is this just my camera or is this some sort of processing latency effecting the LCD?

FCE 4 has not given me any problems at 1920x1080 / FXP mode at any frame rate. It seems to be truly native 1920, but if you look too closely, then you're probably going to see some of the encoding losses.

I don't know. But if they accept HDV sourced videos, then they already do accept it.

My HF10 has the same annoying time lag. I first thought it is the image stabilization, but as you pointed out, it's now.

Here's what I use. 37-52mm stepup ring, 52mm UV filter, and Hama hood for 52mm (clamps over 52mm filter ring. Ordered from B&H photo). If I can successfully attach a photo, that is what is shown.

It does block the Instant Autofocus sensor but regular autofocus works, just be aware it may take a second or so.

I find this to be a very effective hood for the lens built into the camera. Any wide angle or telephoto aux lenses will likely require their own hoods. And with this cam I consider a hood absolutely necessary.

Bruce -- that's a sexy looking camcorder you have there! ;-)

What lcd hood is that? I have the Hoodman 16:9, but this one seems to be different.