XH-A1 Questions... issues...
 

hello!

I have the A1. I shoot 90% skateboarding. I have a few questions on issues I was curious if anyone else has some solutions or ideas.

1. The record lamp on the front of the camera that shows you are recording. Is there a way to turn that off? Police don't really like that....

2. I am about to purchase a century optics fisheye but I am wondering about how the fisheye will effect not only the wide screen picture but also since the AF sensors are right next to the lens and the bayonet adapter will cover this... I assume to just use manual focus but skateboarding distance changes.. So I kind of need auto focus.. Is there a good setting that gives me a larger focal point?

3. Does anyone on else seem to the issue of the viewfinder (eye piece & LCD) even though everything looks bright enough the footage is darker when captured? (Unfortunately I am not the most experienced. but I am learning)

4. Is there a way to record a mic & a line level? One to channel 1 and the other to channel 2? for backups. or can I use the ambient on ch 1. and line or mic on ch 2?

5. A good recommendation for an on camera light? Frezzi is a little out of my price range. $250-300 is about my max.

6. A good book or tutorial on understanding shutter speeds & how to mix that with the iris?


Thank you for anyone that helps me out.

reztilb@gmail.com

-bryan

1. Custom Function Menu > Item 17 (Tally Lamp) > Position 2 (Off).

2. Camera Setup Menu > AF Mode > Normal AF (provides AF if the sensor is blocked).

3. Display Setup Menu > CVF Setup and LCD Setup. Match the viewfinders to an external monitor.

4. Sorry no.

5. See our Photon Management forum for extensive discussions on this subject.

6. This web site. Search, browse, read, ask and learn. Hope this helps,

I think you can turn off the light, maybe in the custom settings? Look through the manual and you can probably find that.

The wide angle adapter may cover the external quick focus sensor, but it won't affect the internal one, so it should be OK.

You do not use the viewfinder or LCD to set exposure. That's what the zebras are for. But it helps if you have your VF properly adjusted to color bars. However, if you're shooting outdoors and crank up the brightness, that will screw you up. Learn to use the zebras properly.

Check B&H for on camera lights. There are some in that general price range.

It's best to not shoot at a non-standard shutter speed (1/48 for 24fps, 1/60 for 30fps, and 1/50 for PAL interlace, 1/25 for 25p) unless you're after a specific effect. A slower speed will cause blurring and strobing, a higher speed will cause other effects, such as a fan blade spinning backwards.

Best thing to do before you shoot much is set up the camera on a tripod and spend a few hours going through the manual and making sure you have good knowledge of everything.

Check out the Vidleds

http://vidled.com/products.html

thanks a lot! that really helps!

Not directly, but if you have external sources (e.g., an external mic and a line-level input) you could put an attenuator on the high level source to bring it down to mic level.

You will have to capture the ambient sound with an external mic, not the internal mic.

I'm a newbie as far as zebras. How do you properly adjust your VF to color bars so that the captured footage is not darker than what you see on the VF or LCD?

There's a tutorial on the web someplace about how to adjust a monitor. Maybe somebody can post the link; I don't remember where it is.

Read the manual about setting zebras and set them to about 80%. When you get zebras on skin highlights, you're close to a decent exposure, all other things being equal.

Even with a properly adjusted viewfinder, you can't trust it under all conditions, and never the LCD. The viewfinder can be a little bit of a guide when it's adjusted right, but that's all.

Thanks! I appreciate your help.

Hereyago--I found the link. This is accurate info:

http://www.videouniversity.com/tvbars2.htm

I just checked out the link. It is very helpful. Thank you!

It's fairly easy with a high res black and white viewfinder all the larger cameras have to adjust it properly so you can be fairly confident of good exposure. The little color ones are not so easy, but you can get close.

Even so, you need to learn to use the zebras. The zebras are nothing more than a graphic readout from a reflective light meter. Most 2/3" chip cameras of the past came with zebras set at 75=78%, so you couldn't screw up. However, all the new cameras make them adjustable. You can set them at 100%, and down under 70% I think. If your zebras are at 100%, that means a white object will give you a zebra reading. In most cases that is not the best way to use them. I keep mine at 75%, which is a pretty close reading off caucasian skin tones, green grass, pastel colored shirts, Kodak gray cards, etc. I get zebras on the keylight side of a face, or off a shirt, etc., I know I'm in the ballpark. In my early days of video I used a light meter I calibrated to the camera, and you might want to try that; however, you can zoom in with the camera and take reflective readings from different areas of your shot, as long as you remember that it's a reflective reading and therefore dark colors are going to try to make you overexpose and light ones may make you underexpose--ie., the meter is a guide only and you have to gain some experience to make it work for you all the time under all circumstances. It takes practice.

Sample footage of the Century .3x Ultra Fisheye and standard Fisheye available here. Click on the samples tab to watch live video.

http://www.schneideroptics.com/ecomm...=1385&IID=6221

http://www.schneideroptics.com/ecomm...=1385&IID=6222

Ryan Avery
Regional Sales Representative
Schneider Optics