B+W is the filter brand sold by Schneider. They are made in Germany of high quality glass. Most of them are made with German brass rings. In many cases, the brass prevents binding -- that is the threads run smoothly, unlike aluminum. (In a few markets, the ring may be made out of an alloy other than brass, but if the filter is bought in a major market from a major seller, such as B&H, the ring is brass.)

The brass can be put on tight, but once the pressure is off the threads, it runs free. Aluminum binds all along the threads, like sandpaper rubbing together.

In the past I have always used the standard aluminum (and some are better than others) aluminum ring filters. For my XH-A1 I bought a B+W UV 010 MRC (multi resistant coating). The threads do run noticeably differently.

One thing, the brass is heavier than the aluminum. I also have a Century UV filter, in a sturdy aluminum ring, and it works fine, but the brass ring is noticeably different.

The little filter wrenches are also helpful.

Regarding using temperature, it is heat that will cause the outer ring to expand more than the inner ring will and loosen the connection.

Generally, though, I believe it is the binding of the aluminum that causes the greatest bond when the filter is screwed in tight.

The B+W brass is especially nice for step-up rings... though the B+W brass rings cost 2-3 times what an aluminum step-up ring costs. Howeve, the aluminum filter against an aluminum step-up ring is especially prone to binding.

Shiv I use a Hoya UV filter with my A1 never had a problem but don't use a letus if you use your letus with that filter again try putting the filter on the letus first.

Alan

Eric,

I'm pretty sure when I put the UV filter on it was seated just tight. It's mounting an adapter that makes it overly tight. But yes, a wrench is a must in my kit.

Alan, I don't believe the filter is at fault. In my mind it's the combination of a filter with an adapter (and possibly an aluminum ring rather than brass).

Jack, thank you for the details and information.

Shiv.

Again, going back to my roots as an equipment tech in the semiconductor industry, I recommend using heat on the outer surface or, cold on the inner surface.

We used to have many issues with stainless screws getting bound up in aluminum pieces. We would use a combination of component freeze spray to really contract the screw, along with squirting isopropyl alcohol to lubricate and provide evaporative cooling to break them loose. Even then, we weren't always successful because they'd been subjected to the heat and by products of sputtering aluminum onto wafers. But that method gave us the highest success rate.

The brass threads are a good idea. Sounds like I'll have to look for the B+W filters next time.

-gb-