wich filters to take along? ND/polarize/gradient
hi,
I am taking my canon xh A1 with me on a documentary project in cambodia. I was wondering wich filters I should buy as I dont own any for the moment. guess an UV is necessary and maybe an ND too? wich one do you own and recommand to me? guess i will go for a normal cheap french flag/and no mattbox... greetz |
ND grads are the most useful for video, to control the contrast on scenics with lots of sky etc. If you take one then a .6 soft edge would be best, or if you can also get a .9 hard edge. Polarisers can look nice but don't over-use it or it can look OTT. Never use UVs myself. LEE filters are great, the whole system works well.
Have fun over there! Steve |
I use a French flag, generally in studio or office situations where a backlight may be a little low and give me a hit in the lens. I got a clamp-on one from Filmtools. The camera has no 1/4" thread on top, so you can't use the standard kind that goes in the 1/4" hole. I don't use polarizers, but keep a clear protective filter on all the time and use an ND .3 on occasion.
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ND you need it, just a good screw on one, like B&W mrc 72mm 4x (102M)
No life without it. |
Hasn't the XHA1 got ND filter switch? Cams like the Sony Z1 etc. have ND OFF, 1 and 2, with 2 being about 4-6 stops - enough for any conditions short of solar eclipses! Better than putting NDs on front of lens, which can help induce flare.
Steve |
The built in ND filter is pretty good for most conditions. I mainly shoot air shows and use 50i and TV mode set at 1/120th with manual db set to 0. Even on really bright days the 1/32 ND filter is enough to keep the aperture around its sweet spot. The 1/32 does darken the final results slightly compared to the 1/6.
Mark |
Firstly, I never go anywhere with mine without something on the lens, aside from the lens cap. In the studio, I'd let the good glass go naked but out in the world, I want the protection and more.
Out in sunlight, I almost always use a polarizer. When I shoot race cars at night I'll put a clear one on for protection. I have a UV/Haze filter that I almost never use. If I was going to Cambodia, I'd bring all the ones I own (4) because they're not very big. I'd also want to get another of whatever filter I'd be using most often. For example, if I shot mostly using a polarizer and an elephant snuck into my tent and ate it, I'd want another to replace it so that the look of everything I shot out of doors would be consistent. What you bring with you should be what you normally shoot with so that you don't end up wishing you'd brought it. |
Steve, yes the camera has the usual 2 ND internal filters, but lots of people use an additonal one in bright sunlight so you can open up more.
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Hi Annie,
Just depends on the scene. Hard edge are really only useable if the scene has a fairly straight line in it, ie a flat-topped hill with sky behind or a horizon, as otherwise you tend to notice it on parts of the scene that stick up into the ND section. Soft edge is a much more gradual transition. I think the other thing is you tend to use higher ND and hard-edge more when you're trying to make an effect with the grad, ie making a sky look menacing, whereas the soft-edge, low range grads (ie soft .3ND) will just help lower the contrast range. I know some folks will carry a whole set, .3, .6 and .9 soft and hard, but 6 filters in the field seems a bit excessive to me (not to mention expensive), so I always travel with .6 soft and .6 or .9 hard. Steve |
Hi Steve - thanks. Having never really got into landscape photography, I guessed that was probably the logic. I'll start with a .6 soft, then add others later. I already have a Cokin filter holder and a polariser, and they work ok as long as I'm not using the full wide angle. What I really need is time to use them!
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hi,
thanks everybody. guess I decided to take the normal ND and a gradient.6. was also convinced of taken the UV after sseing the film on the thread what not to da with a 2 week old A1.... grtz |
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