Setting up the Steadicam Merlin for the Canon XHA1 - Tutorial
 

I finally made a video tutorial that I think should help folks set up the Steadicam Merlin for use with the Canon XHA1.

I used the HV30 to shoot this, since the A1 was being used in the shot.
http://exposureroom.com/members/skum...633f8cc8f4e87/

Hi Shiv,

I was excited to see your video posting.... I sometimes need some inspiration to get my Merlin out of the bag and onto my cam.
I appreciate your efforts and sharing... the tut was well produced.

Not meaning to 'rock the boat' (no pun intended)..... BUT.... when I saw your tut using 4 bottom weights I thought this might work 'better' than my settings (5 bottom wieght + 1 end weight) however after removing one of my bottom weights and trying it I really struggled to get it balanced!

I spent quite a bit of time twisting those fine trim adjusters.....
then .... I gave up !!

Adding one extra bottom weight (back to 5 + 1 end weight)
it balanced easily again !!

I do get some pendulum swing though.... and havent really spent a huge amount of time since I got it practising.

Any comments on this would be appreciated.

Shawn

EDIT: EDIT : EDIT : EDIT

Sorry, my mistake I see you used :
1 STARTER weight + 4 MID weights + 1 END weight (starter, end weights are smaller than MID weights)
I will try that now.... and report back.

Shawn








Nice video....

Hi Shiv.....

I'm back after a few minutes of testing...... well my report is as follows:
That configuration really works well.
Easy to balance and seemingly less pendulum.
1 STARTER + 4 MID + 1 END weights works very well.

Thanks for your help, I will leave this as my XH-A1 Merlin config.

Well done !

Shawn

Shawn,

Glad to hear it works well for you!

Honestly, since you can see clearly in the video that, that combination has no pendulum effect (which from the number of people I've helped on this is the biggest problem) I was simply going to say, "Look at the video" :).

thanks Shiv,

It's nice to see a tutorial like that!

I fiddle around and fiddle around and get there eventually but it's good to see your settings and exactly how you did it. I would rather see the adjustment than the result - it gives me more confidence that I'm on the right track

looks good Shiv,
I used to use a very similar setup and the only thing about that setup i noticed was slight vibrations in my footage. I managed to get rid of them by realising it was due to no g-platz screw being used.
I was fine for a while and then out of nowhere vibrations started to appear in my footage.
So i then tried using the N hole instead of I and trimmed extremely down to the bottom of the trimmer. this places the a1 on the merlin balanced but in a position which allows for the g platz to be pressing against the lens hood (with your setup, in hole I, the gplatz would be pressing up against one of the rings on the lens.
Its what worked for me. I also found it to be slightly more comfortable for holding the merlin as your arms dont need to be streatched out as far.

Ger,

You can blanace the Merlin (with the A1) in a hundred sifferent ways. The most important part is that you have the rig just slightly bottom heavy and that is achieved with the settings I showed (the position of the spars, the weights and the 2 turns out from lightly seated for the gimbal).

The trimming and things are just that "trimming" :).

So you idea about using the N hole instead of the I hole is probably better if you have a vibration issue because you're correct about the I hole and the g-platz screw hitting up against the Iris ring.

I've personally not had vibration issues because I use rubber pads between the Mounting plate and the A1 and that's really to do with what I think is a flawed design of the A1. See this picture
http://exposureroom.com/members/skum...54099d0a54760/

But the combination of the N hole and g-platz screw is a good one too.

Another problem I've been having is the mounting screw coming loose no matter how hard i tighten it.
I overcame that with double sided sticky taping the dovetail plate to the canon as well as screwing the screw in.
And also if you do use the g-platz screw its very easy to loose it. I have some thread attached to mine and the merlin just in case.

There certainly are a few little design flaws but nothing that would cause me to go with any other product.

Truly nice video.

I take it, the A1 with the Wide Angle Lens is just too heavy for the Merlin?

Ger,

I agree there are a few little design flaws. Personally, I'd like a larger grip and the grip should have a lip that extend (from the top edge) all around the grip so one doesn't have to squeeze the grip so hard all the time. With the lip the weight of the Camera and Merlin assembly will really come on the top of your fist without really having to hold on tight.

Brad,
Thanks. I'm not sure but I guess it is because that lens is quite heavy and the A1 is very close of the weight limit of the Merlin. But I believe the new all metal gimbal may be able to handle the extra weight.

I recently got the red-eye .65 WA adaptor to compliment the rig.

Its just about light enough to use.
The only weight i have left over is a starter weight as opposed to a mid, with this adaptor on.

But it works well. A little concaving which can be fixed in post, although i like the look.
You cannot zoom too much through either, focus hunts too much.

Ger,

You probably already know this but I thought I should mention it. The wider the focal length the smoother the footage looks. So when using a Merlin kind of stabilizer I wouldn't zoom in at all.
I’ve tried zooming in (stock lens) and the footage looks terrible (compared to when shot wide).

So that would mean the WA weighs mid weight - starter weight?

I think the adaptor weighs 100gms,
whatever that is in terms of merlin weights.
I've found to have one starter (or finisher, but it looks ugly) left over is about right.

Its worth mentioning alright Shiv. I wouldn't, and cant anyway with this adaptor, use zoom. As a general rule, i never do anyway, except for the odd very slow one. Or quick one to reframe and cut out later.
But thats the difference between a wide angle adaptor and a wide angle lens. One allows you to, the other doesent. If you dont need to why pay the extra €2000 aprrox extra for one that allows full zoom through. At least thats my perception from what I've read up on the subject from the guys on this site.
For merlin use, i believe there is only 2 options. One from Century Optics, and one fom redeye.

I hear you about the grip Shiv, would be nice not to have to squeeze so hard.
So how long can you operate the merlin/A1 for without tiring?
After quite a bit of regular use im up to about 20mins (ish) easily.

I think you guys may be talking about two different ideas--(correct me if I am wrong)--Shiv, you are suggesting not to shoot with the Merlin at anything other than full wide angle while Ger is talking about zooming within a shot...?

The Merlin is designed to be stable at tighter focal lengths and it can be quite beautiful to shoot this way. It does require an ever-lighter touch, and focus can begin to become an issue but telephoto shots are certainly possible. I encourage all stabilizer users to practice these as it is helpful for wider shots as well.

The classic X exercise (where you place an X at the end of a hallway or on a wall in a large room, and slowly walk towards it and away from it keeping the X in the middle of your screen) is great for this. With the longer lenses it becomes more challenging. However, after practicing for a while with a long lens, do a pass at wide angle and should be noticeable how much better and more accurate your operating will have become just in that short a time.

These sort of drills, while much more boring than running around chasing people, dogs etc. with the rig, are absolutely critical to nailing down the basic skills of operating a stabilizer.

Charles,

It would be great to see an article a new article, entitled something like, "Ten Drills to Practice Basic Steadicam Skills."

I think such an article would be very helpful to the many of us looking at the Steadicam as a newly asffordable option.

Just like a baseball player has certain fudamentals that must be practiced, what are similar fundamentals for steadicam work and what are some drills to practice them.

You mention the x on the wall and practice at mild telephoto.

How about horizon, how should it be seen in the picture and what is a drill to practice.

I don't know what the basics are (thus the request for the article), but some possible things might be:
1. Changing direction (L-R, R-L) while holding an actor.
2. Lead on a moving actor
3. Adjusting to unanticipated movements, and ways to do it.
4. Stairs
5. Sitting to Standing, Standing to Sitting
6. Tilt Down and Tilt Up
7. Moving, hold, move again (same or different direction)
8. Keeping proper frame on differnt shots (closup, close, two-shot, etc.)

I don't know how accurate my list is, but it's the idea.

Again, this is not an article to replace what is learned at a workshop. Rather, it is a basic outline of the fundamental steadicam skills and some simple drills to practice to improve them.

Oh, and then it would be great to read an article about working with someone to guide you, warn you, stop you, etc. What the mechanics are and perhaps some stories about good experiences and some others (hopefully not too many) about steadicam duos gone wrong.

And if SAG goes on strike, I would like you to write a book:

"Documentary Steadicam: Perfection on the Fly"

...or some such title.

The book will detail how to take the traditional steadicam techniques used to create the planned, rehearsed and beautifully executed shots and apply them to the fast-moving, improvisational documentary world.

And how are traditional steadicam techniques adapted to this different style of shooting.

The focus is on the block-style HDV/HD camera mounted on the Steadicam Pilot, with a special chapter on handheld techniques, perhaps with the Merlin that can also go on the Pilot arm.

Of course there will be a chapter on safety in unfamiliar environments, with a list of definite don't do's, with workarounds suggested.

There will be a chapter on effective use of the steadicam on the documentary, and also what is not effective and a waste of time.

There will be a chapter on how to use a steadicam for shots that don't look like steadicam... presuming that in a documentary situation you want a variety of looks, but don't have the luxury of time to set-up a tripod, a jib, a hi-hat, etc.

Of course, there's a lot more you can cover, but that's the idea.

I will buy the first copy. Don't forget the steadicam documentary gag real DVD... basically a collection of POV steadicam shots where operators ran into unexpected situations, like trees and big drop offs.

For the cover, to show how the once big budget studio technique is now out in the field for everyone (and as an homage, to boot):
Garrett Brown is running in the jungle, leading an attacking lion. He is wearing a giant steadicam rig and flying a Chapman studio crab dolly with a Panavision camera on it, with you the operator, sitting with your eye glued to the viewfinder.

Please, put up a link, so we can pre-order.

Well I wasn't really Charles, I got a little off topic talking about WA Adaptors for general shooting.
But now that you mention it I do intend to try using the merlin at various focal lenghts over the next few jobs to see how I get on.
I had considered before bringing my A1 remote control to perform some zooms while shooting.

But if this is to work out it will have to be done without my .65 redeye attached.

Charles,

You're correct in understanding what I said. I didn't know about the X exercize but when I first got my Merlin I tried a bunch of things and one of them was something similar and it didn't look like telephoto shots would be usable at all.

Rather than an article I'd love to see footage by you made using a Merlin, Charles. I think that would be a treat for all of us!

Actually Shiv, I had some test footage up at one time with the Merlin and the HV20 when I first got it and it was pretty mediocre...I believe that the gimbal on my Merlin is not-so-great and keep meaning to pick up the metal one to give it a fair shot. I don't really use the Merlin much so it's not a priority. Even the concepts are the same and the skill of operating is pretty translatable from the big rig to this, the smallest one, the specifics of using just your thumb and forefinger to control the inertial forces is something that I would still need to practice quite a bit for best results. It's fun watching Garrett wield the Merlin though, he's an absolute wiz at it (terrible pun, sorry).

Jack, regarding articles/videos etc., I've long tossed around the idea of an instructional video (actually a series of them) but there's a lot of time and work involved.

Just curious, what do you use for the rubber pads? I was thinking maybe cut-out sections from a bike tire tube, but that may be to thin?

I'm excited to watch your video, but I have to leave to film in 20 minutes so I have to check it out later.

Charles,

That's a realy pitty! I've found that using a heavier camera is easier (at least for me). I have the HV30 and XHA1 and the HV20 seems to go all over the place :). As in I have to keep my finger on the gimbal constantly to keep it from rotating. And the slightest breeze causes it to shift. With the A1 I have far less "trouble".

Travis,

The rubber I use is a bit harder than the tube of a cycle tyre. I've cut rubber matsinto small pieces and I use two layers. These two layers are just slightly higher than the air gap you get and so when you tighten up the tripod plate (or merlin plate) it tends to squeeze it in.

I found soft rubber didn't help. These mats I mention are kitchen mats and such, they are rubber, but they are firm/hard. If you can imagine thin foot mats, its kind of like that.