LED on camera lights
 

im trying to decide on a on-camera LED light; the 2 that I have in mind are the SWIT LED lights (http://www.swit-battery.com/swit2006...ductdetail.asp) and the Litepanel Micro (http://www.s131567196.onlinehome.us/products/micro.asp)

Anyone have any suggestions?

For us Canon XL owners, one advantage of the Varizoom S-2010F is that we can use our camera batteries as a dual-purpose source:

http://www.dv.com/reviews/reviews_it...leId=196602658

Whichever LED you buy, another plus is using it indoors as a catch light - works great to get that sparkle in the actor's eye, and you can dim the illumination when up close on a tight shot.

Regards, Michael

Guy's,
I have not really ventured into taping in areas of low light. However, i am wanting to arm myself with a tool or two for when the time comes. So basically I have never looked into the lights much. My question is are LED pretty much the best method for lighting subjects for all on camera shoemount type lights?

Also, how far does the light project onto a subject?

I ask this because Friday night I am planning to tape my neighbors band as favor for him and learning experience for me and need to get something fairly fast.

We own and sometimes use this model (bought almost a year ago):

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Light_and.html

If the dimmable Litepanel Micro came out back then, I certainly would have bought that instead!

Check out this video from Guy Cochran's DVestore:

http://www.dvcreators.net/products/l...movieframe.htm

Our Bescor light, with a "small" battery pack can weigh a ton after a few minutes of shooting.

Best,

--JA
www.madjavaproductions.com

Guy,

No, tunsten lights are more suitable than LEDs if you need lots of light (say 50-100 watts) for a reasonable price. It's difficult to say how far a light projects on a subject due to a myriad of variables including camera sensitivity, camera gain setting, aperture/iris, shutter speed, subject movement, camera movement, subject texture/geometry/color, etc. Generally speaking, if you're shooting an event with human subjects that are much more than 10 feet, you'll be pushing beyond the limits of most LED lights - translation, you'll need to turn up the camera gain to 12 or 18db and get noise (snow) in your picture.

Good luck, Michael

I have read so many pros and cons on all types of lights I am really confused. I am now trying to find a consistent performer (on camera). Cost will not be a major factor.

If you know any safe consitent lights I would appreciate some feedback.

RE: Gain -- I am planning to use the gain. But I hop that I can limit that as much as possible. This gig takes place at the Horse track between races. I have not seen the setting "with this shoot in mind". I have been there and recall it fairly well. The band will be located on a small stage with a large glass window 60' or so in the background. Behind the glass is the finish line of a Thourabred Horse track. There will be some back light and the stage will also have some lighting. I am looking for something that just enhance the subject from about 10 feet away.

...But this purchase is not just for this shoot. I also need a good indoor light for general purposes.

Take a look at: http://www.zylight.com

These are pricey, but the engineering looks good to me.

The backlighting may require tight shots with your 20X lens and red stage lights may require color correction in post (or you can tweak the presets). You're lucky to be operating within 10 feet for a stage performance - you may squeak by with LEDs for this gig depending on the specifics.

Assuming we're talking about gun-and-run on-camera lighting, for general purpose work you'll still want to invest in some beefier light/s (key/fill) around 100 watts. And if you're using diffusion, grids, gels, etc, you'll wish you had more light. But if you're only doing on-the-fly talking head, close up interviews, you could get by with less light.

As mentioned before, even when you have powered lights, a battery-powered on-camera LED light still makes a nice catch light.

Have fun, Michael