Question on interlacing
 

Hi, I am a fairly new user who likes to shoot in frame mode instead of interlacing.

Am I right in thinking that easy recording mode will only allow you to record as the interlaced version?

If so, once the footage is imported into premiere, I cant get ti to de-interlace!! The footage looks really bad with fuzzy lines etc.

Can someone kindly point me into the right direction? Thanks!

Pixel aspect ratio
 

Can anyone tell me what the pixel aspect ratio is, when shooting electronic anamorphic on the Xl1s? 1.2?

Anamorphic 16x9 question
 

Hello all and please pardon me if I am hashing over old territory here.

As the XL1 has an electronic viewfinder, then you are certainly susceptible to other than WYSIWYG, correct?

I am shooting a project in anamorphic 16x9, PAL, over here in Thailand. I have never used this function on an XL1 before, and I am seeing a few things in post that perhaps somebody can easily clarify.

On my computer screen and television monitor, I am seeing the edge of the boom. On my Sony MiniDV player, I am not seeing anything. Is the 16x9 still somewhat cropped, or are you displaying everything it captured?

Its not a huge issue as its such a small piece of boom, I can crop it out and do a minor stretch, but if I don't neeed to, then why bother and take chances with the image.

Any information, answers or suggestions would be appreciated.

Regards,
David Fisher
A~T~8 Productions
Bangkok, Thailand

The EVF is not not a production monitor by any stretch of the imagination. It does not show everything the camera is seeing as you have just discovered.

According to Vegas:

1,2121 NTSC
1,4568 PAL

XL1 / XL1S Matching
 

All,

I am going to be shooting an relatively dark bar scene with my XL1. Since time is short, I am considering renting a second camera to speed the process.

My question is can I rent an XL1S? Will they match enough in a lower-light situation? Or should I try to find an XL1?

Thanks in advance.

Input into XL1 from Sennheiser 100
 

You can call Sennheiser and get the adapter you are looking for. It is a 1/8 inch female to two RCA plugs. It will cost you $2.80 plus $3.50 in priority shipping. Don't talk to their sales department, they are absolutely clueless! Go straight to technical support and ask for Jason. Phone - 860-434-9190.

The cord is about 5 inches long.

In my experience (I own both cameras) the XL1s performs better in low light. You can match the color and exposure, but the XL1 will always show more noise (grain). If they need to match exactly, get another XL1.

Anamorphic lens not compatible with Xl1?
 

hello-

I'm fairly new to the game, but i'm gaining interest fast. I thought I might upgrade to a better camera than my sony handycam, the choices were pretty clear; Xl1 or maybe dvx100. Originally the Xl1 was my first choice, but then I heard somewhere that there are no 16:9 anamorphic lenses campatible with the xl1, just the 16:9 mode. (which simply crops?) Is this statement true?

Thanks

-Alex

Or You Can To Radio Shack.
 

I got my adapters at Radio Shack. However, the Sennheiser unit is well priced.

it isn't true. the xl-1 is able to be used with anamorphic adapters. optex has something like that or you can theoretically add any lense to it that has anamorphic attachment or is native anamorphic, that has nothing to do with the xl-1 (you could theoreticallly use a anamorphic adapter and the internal 16/9 to get ~2.35:1 image

I believe you will find some caveats WRT anamorphic adaptors on the XL-1. There's a fair amount of vignetting as you are adapating a smaller lens. Century said they were working on another model for the XL-1(s) but not sure if it was ever released, and it was VERY expensive. Of course anamorphic adaptors have lots of limitations even under the best circumstances.

However, read the article in American Cinematographer about "28 Days Later". They shot with the XL-1s and printed to 35mm film. They cropped the footage in post and didn't use anamorphic adaptors. I saw this film in a theatre and was very impressed with the quality. They used PAL cameras however which offer somewhat higher resolution.

shutter speed
 

what is an ideal sutter speed to be shooting at for typical shots. And do people/networks preffer a specific f stop.

shooting with:

16X
3X
EOS 35-350

thanks

The usual shutter speed for NTSC video is 1/60 of a second, it coincides with the number of fields per second. The aperture used will be determined by the amount of light in the scene. Use the zebra bars and adjust the aperture until the bars are almost gone. View the video and look for highlights with no detail. If the video is unsatisfactory, repeat the exercise, adjusting the aperture to suit you taste.

Buying XL1S at WEVA??
 

We will be purchasing a Canon XL1S within the next 2 weeks. Does anyone know if there will be a significant discount at the WEVA Convention (Wedding Event & Videographers Association) in Las Vegas at the end of the month vs. buying online (probably B & H.....currently $3539 +s/h)?

What about accessories? lighting? audio? at WEVA.

You might save $100 or so, but not much more.

Using ~1/60 will probably give the most video-like look.

Ideal shutter is what gives you the image effect/look/feel you want. The shutter spped is a compromise with aperture, gain, and the control you have over scene lighting.

Single Pixel Artifact
 

When I play back footage recorded from my XL1 there appears to be a one pixel white dot in the upper right of the shot (as reference: just below and to the left of the ten second digit if viewed with the display on). The artifact is always in the same place and is unaffected by zoom or focus, so I know it isn't the lens. I've ruled out media as well since the same tape was used on a Sony camera with no such artifact.

I've dusted the areas where the lens meets the body, but this does nothing. Does anyone know what could cause this?

Thanks from the new guy.

It could be a hot or dead CCD pixel. Just a guess.

Cleaning XL-1/GL-1
 

Couple of questions.....

Using head cleaning tapes on the XL-1 and GL-1....

....how often?

I realize they can damage heads, but when horizontal lines interrupt an important shoot, you don't know until it's over.

Experiences from users?



OK....we've got 2 XL-1's and 3 GL-1's and somebody ran a wet cleaning cassette (Sony) through these cameras a number of times after they were acclimated to a dry cleaning cassette (Panasonic/Canon).

So.....stripes over video everywhere.

Do I need to send these in to Canon to be cleanedcorrectly or is there a way I can handle it myself?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I've never had a problem using different brands (wet/dry) of cleaning tapes. Repeated use of cleaning tapes can damage the heads, so I would send them off to Canon for a professional cleaning.

It is still a good idea to send the camera yearly to Canon. Besides the cleaning you can have any firmware upgrades done plus the important head alignment.

I don't think you should get bad captured images either way. There's something wrong there.

In the green box mode, the camera won't let you set movie mode in the menu, so it's normally interlaced. (I'm talking XL-1).
Green box mode is generally to be avoided. Best to use manual mode and get to grips with all components: shutter speed, aperture, white balance, gain... it's not as hard as it sounds, while filming you only change one variable most of the time. And then there is focus of course & zoom.... We should be born octopusses....

Perhaps specify exactly what's wrong with your footage and what equipment you use and maybe post a screen shot, then often the wizards on this forum will scoot to the rescue.

Batteries question
 

Hi all,I need to know if is possible to use the xm1/xm2 batteries on my xl1 camera.
Thanks in advance,Maurizio.

I use same batteries on GL1 and XL1 with no problem. You can check battery numbers listed in the manuals to be sure.

Vignetting only appears in NLE
 

Dear forum:
I have a weird problem. Let me first run through my set up.

I have shot a lot of tapes of auditions using my XL1S PAL using the standard 16x Servo lens. I have mounted a Cavision Matte box. The matte box is only expanded by 1/3 of its full capacity. I have a UV filter screwed onto the lens. I have recorded in green easy mode since it is only auditions. I also used a Sony video monitor.

Here is the problem. When I capture the footage in my NLE (iMovie since I just need to capture and export the clips to iDVD, I don't use FCP3), there are some vignetting in all 4 corners. It is worst in the top corners. And I only see it when I have capture it. I didn't see it on the video monitor (800 lines), so I am very spooked. I used a couple of Home Depot spot lamps with a 200W tungsten as light.

Also when I shoot wide shots i.e. wide angle I don't see the vignetting, it only appears when I zoom. I have previously used this camera set up and haven't seen any vignetting.

Anyone who has any suggestions? I will be using my camera in 1 month to shot my short film, and I can't have any surprises.

Computer screen viewer in iMovie underscans, shows the complete image. Your 800 line video monitor overscans (crops), as all monitors do. It's just the difference between computer and NTSC video.

You can purchase production monitors that have switchable underscan. But this can be a pricey feature. You customer will never see the vignetting, because his monitor (TV) will overscan also.

Re: Vignetting only appears in NLE
 

<<<-- Originally posted by Thomas Berg Petersen : I will be using my camera in 1 month to shot my short film, and I can't have any surprises. -->>>

Yeah, you really do need to check your footage on an underscanning monitor, or in your NLE which shows the full frame. I learned the hard way that the VX-2000/PD-150 LCD screen and viewfinder don't show the entire frame. I gather this is true for most (if not all) prosumer camcorders. If your movie is going to be digitally projected or printed to film the chances are that the full frame will show, so you have to be extra careful.

One thing which I've found really useful is a little shareware program called BTV Pro. You can use a PowerBook as a monitor by connecting it to your camera via firewire. It will show you the full video frame (and also do some other cool things like capturing video for tapeless recording). It can also display anamorphic 16:9 in the correct proportion.

buyer beware and information needed.
 

I am new to this forum and reside in San Diego, CA. Any ideas onthe best place to buy the XL1s? I see it on ebay for around $3500.00. I almost bought it on Amazon, but it appears I was very close to becoming a victim of fraud. Someone saying they just bought it and they needed to sell it and they wanted to ESCROW it through www.escrow1st.com. After some careful research, I found out the website had been created a week ago (www.NetworkSolutions.com) and none of the information added up, the site was not secure (https:). Anyhow, when I started calling them out on it, they suddnely vanished only to reurn as a new Amazon merchant (The new email is registered at www.escrow1st.com). I had a friend email and inquire and the same story was given to the T.

Anyway, I was this close to finally getting the XL1s. Anyone have any suggestions for a San Diego wannabe filmaker? It is retailing for $4100.00 at the stores here. Anyone? Bueller? Fry?

Run, don't walk, to my Sponsors page and be sure to read my post at the top of this forum's index called Where to Buy the XL1S. Hope this helps,

XL1s Lens compatible???
 

Canon made a Hi-8 camera that preceded the XL1, that had interchangeable lenses.

It can been seen at the site:
http://161.58.152.172/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=5031066&Product_Code=CANL2

The pictures not quite clear, but is the mount compatible with the XL1s? Just saw someone selling the camcorder in local press and wondering if the 3x lens with it is compatible.

Thanks!

It is not compatable, to the best of my knowledge.

XL1s Dealer in Chicago.
 

The only place in Chicago that I know where you can try out the XL1s before you buy it is at Helix Camera & Video

HELIX
310 SOUTH RACINE
CHICAGO IL 60607
312 421-2804

www.helixphoto.com

Hope this helps out a few of you guys looking for the XL1s in Illinois.

New Viewfinder extension from Optex
 

I was surfing around on the Optex website and came across this accessory for the XL-1 Color Viewfinder. Has anyone seen one of these units installed on an XL-1? What are the Pros and Cons of such and attachment? Should one just go ahead and invest in the FU-1000 monochrome viewfinder as opposed to the viewfinder extension setup?

See link: OpTex XL1S Extension Viewfinder

Would like to hear back if anyone has info.
Dennis

odd XL1 behaviour
 

I had one of my XL1's sitting for a while. I turned it on, and nothing happened, except the viewfinder started blinking off and on. Just flashing a whitish screen. No power went to any of the camera at all. I put a new, charged battery (guess that one was near dead when I put it in), and it powered up fine.

Has this happened to anyone else?

Never heard of that before... sounds like a near-death battery going through some final spasms.

Those batteries will normally discharge over the course of a month. After about a month or so they are seriously expended and will need to be recharged before use.

If the battery was really old there is no telling how much capacity remained.

P.S. Don't forget about replacing the button too.

Nothing is wrong. You are getting an interlaced image which is
looking jagged on a computer screen whenever something is
moving in the frame or the camera itself is moving. I'd shoot with
frame mode if I was you. If you really want to shoot interlaced
and later de-interlace I don't think Premiere's standard
de-interlace routines will suffice (as you have found out). Do
a search on this site with words like deinterlace or interlacing
and you'll quickly find tips on how to get rid of that.

XL1 not recognizing tape - help!
 

I'm a student, and completely new to the XL1, I just got my hands on it today to tape a project. Unforunetally, the camera won't recognize any of my tapes. They fit into the bay just fine, but no timecode shows up on my readouts, and the red blinking "no tape" icon still appears.

I've tried 4 different Fujifilm miniDV tapes.
I'm up against a deadline here, anyone know what's going on?

Thanks.

Okay, problem solved. I didn't realize you had to push the bay door in before the other door. Newb panic over.