Same Low Level
 

See my earlier post in this section titled low audio MA-100. I too have been fustrated trying to find out what is going on. It is difficult to know if there is a problem or not since I haven't heard back from anyone with an MA-100. Your issue however, does sound exactly like the one I am experiencing. I tried plugging into the oncamera mini jack to see if I was still getting the same loss characteristics - but the test was inconclusive - maybe 3db of loss vs the 6db of loss when going through the MA-100. I still need to get an adapter to try plugging directly into the RCA jacks -will do that tomorrow.

The MA-100 apparently eats 6db in the conversion since the spec's say it is adding 6db of gain (and associated noise). The solution might be a BeachTek DXA-8 but it lists at almost $400. It would be able to boost the signal and provide better S/N. Let me know if you resolve your problem. Good luck.

Spoken audio at 20 feet from the mic, any mic short of a large parabolic, will be low, unless the mic has a lot of internal gain. Condensor shotgun mics do have internal amplifiers with different amounts of gain dsepending onthe brand and model. Keep in mind that shotgun mics are not telescopic, they just reject sound fron the sides and rear.

FWIW, the Azden mic has a substantially higher internal impedance (~680 ohms per their web site) than other quality shotgun mics. Thus even for the same open circuit output sensitivity it will have lower net output into the MA100 than a mic with an impedance of, say 200 ohms which is typicla of high quality shotguns.

The input impedance of the MA100 is ~600 ohms

Mystery Solved (sort of)
 

I tested all audio inputs with an ecm 44B - it is a bit better when plugging into the mini plug used for the on board mic but still down about 3db.

The solution I ended up with is using a wireless Mic (Sony UWP) which provides lots of level to work with. Apparently the condensor mic just doesn't provide enough for my XL1 without using a preamp of some sort. The Sony works great and I don't have to jack up my on camera level much to get the level I need - keeping the camera amp "noise" to a minimum.

Just curious, has anyone had any luck using a wired lav mic without going through an active mixer or other type of preamp? If so, what kind are you using?

FWIW, the SM58 and SCM-44B have sensitivities on the order of -54 dBv/PA (rather loud speach), while shotguns like the AT-897 and Senn MKE300 are about12 dB more sensitive, and the ME66 about 25 dB more senstitive.

Most wireless mic receivers also have a rather high output level relative to mics like he SM58.

Battery Holder and the MA100
 

The battery holder on my XL1 has the tips of the guides broke off on the left side (looking at it) on both the top and bottom. Don't exactly know how this happened. The battery stays in place but loosely thus causing it to intermittantly turn off and on the camera. This is especially a problem when hand holding.

Anyone ever have this happen to them and how did they fix it?

Then I go to hook up a CH-910 to the MA100 for the first time but after much poking around and several phone calls I realize I am missing the belt clip which fits between the two.

Anybody have another easy homemade solution to adhering the CH-910 to the MA100 until the $3.50 back-ordered item from Canon arrives??

Many thanks in advance.

Velcro works pretty well. Can be a pain to remove though once you get the replacement in. No idea about the battery problem though. Sounds like a toughie.

Well, I got a nice surprise today. The back-ordered belt clip from Canon which was supposed to available in mid-July arrived today. One day after I placed the order!

I hope all of my future Canon orders get here that quick.

Repairing a MA100?
 

Hi,
One of the students in school brought in one of our XL1's
when they couldn't record sound.

I've tested it and the MA100 is not outputting
any signal.

My question is
a) Is it possible to take apart the MA100?
I've removed all the screws but it still doesn't come apart.
b) If it is possible to access the insides, would it be possible to
repair whatever's broken/come loose?

It does come apart, I've done it. You have to separate it from the pad as well. Not much that is user repairable inside, it is mostly surface mounted components, It may be that a wire has come loose.

Thanks Don.. = )

MA 100 tab
 

I know this has been previously discussed but I can't seem to find it in the archives. Is there any possibilty of repairing the "tab' on the MA 100 that slips into the back of the XL1? I took the screw out thinking the part was replaceable but it seems as if the entire MA 100 must be replaced if this piece breaks. Please, say it ain't so!!

Next question is how do you guys deal with the MA 100 when it's loaded down with the dual battery rig and a wireless transmitter? My mistake was when I had the Nebtek 5" monitor on an offset off the hotshoe. It became top heavy and unstable. So when I placed the XL down on a surface it rolled and broke off the MA 100 tab. I was way too tired from many days of hand held as well.

Any ideas on fabricating a metal piece to replace the plastic tab?

Is the MA 200 a more robust, sturdy design in that area??

Many thanks!

I usually mount it on a tripod when I set it down.

I would have done that but it was in my car resting on the seat when it tumbled over. A definite result of overtiredness and stupidity.

I've not broken one before but suggested a repair to someone who did, and he reported it to work nicely.

-- Glue the broken piece with Crazy Glue (super glue or cyanoacrylate). Note that Crazy Glue says "instant" but the bond actually takes time to come to full strength.
-- After the glue sets for an hour, carefully use a Dremel tool to hollow out the tab and the adjacent MA-100 body. Have the hollowed-out "trench" extend about a half-inch or more along the MA-100 body. Doesn't have to be too deep. The trench shouldn't be too smooth as you want the roughened surface available to be gripped by the epoxy glue.
-- Drop-in a roughened piece of steel about 1/16" thick into the hollowed-out trench. This will take the stress normally borne by the plastic tab. If you can't find an appropriate strip of steel, you can substitute three or four pieces of high-carbon piano wire about 1/16" thick.
-- Encase the steel with slow-set epoxy, the kind that takes 24 hours to cure. Don't use the five-minute type as it's too soft. You want something that will cure hard.

You should end up with a repair that has the same shape as the original plastic tab but has a steel core surrounded by very tough epoxy. Take your time and work carefully with the dremel to avoid gouging the MA-100 or breaking the piece you're trying to fix.

Good luck!
Dean Sensui
Base Two Productions

Did you say you have mic set for audio 1 in the menu?
I only have luck setting it to "line" in the menu and then mic under the door.
smitty