iMovie handles broken timecode just fine. It ignores the unrecorded part and picks up again with the next sequence.

Since there is no problem with i-movie and broken code, as per the previous response, here is an experiment. When you replace the record tape in the camera, go into the menus for timecode. You will find "regen" as one of the choices available. Make regen the active. Then, play back the last portion of the tape just before the end of the recording and stop. You don't have to be at the last frame, just don't lose any important material. Now try recording and see if the code picks up where it left off.

This has done it
 

Thanks Jeff

That's sorted it out.

I remembered I had been creating my new sequences to have 'no field dominance', needed in order to suit some footage I'd previsously shot that wobbled with 'lower field dominance'...

...I have remade the sequences with lower field dominance and this has sorted out the jpeg's. The wobbly footage, I have reverted back to lower field dominance and de-interlaced, which sorted out the wobble.

Technology eh?

Cheers again Jeff

Simon

The memory stick reader
 

I guess this is an appropriate forum for this question. My memory stick reader (for the vx2000) does not seem to work. I have installed the driver on a Mac, following the instructions. When I insert a Memory Stick, i get a Memory Stick icon that upon clicking provides me with two files (DCIM and MISC). DCIM opens to another file that then opens to the to the original two files (DCIM and MISC) etc. ad infinitum. MISC opens to a PC (AUTPRINT.BAK) file that I cannot access. Any ideas? Sony gave me the runaround.

I don't plan to take many stills, but it's a matter of principal, dammit! I want everything to work!

Thank you for any help.

Marcello

Hmm...Try reading a friends memory stick to see if you get the same problem. If it works correctly, then the problem is your memory stick itself.

Format the memory stick and try again.

*Note* This will ERASE ALL CONTENT ON THE STICK! Be careful, maybe you should make a copy of the content in a folder on your desktop just incase.

I guess the main point is, your memory stick reader is working (or at least it seems) the problem could be your memory stick...

Good luck

Are you using OS X? i never had any problems with the reader and i didnt install any drivers in OSX. i just plugged it into the USB port and insert the memory stick. image capture on the mac automatically launches and im good to go allowing me to DL any or all pix etc.

I don't think you really need drivers with OSX or 9.2x. However I've never used the Sony reader, I have a "Dazzle" reader that accepts memory sticks, compact flash, PC cards, SD cards, etc. and it works fine without having to install any drivers. Sometimes I've needed to reboot with the card already in the reader for it to appear however...

Newer Macs don't seem to have this bug, Marcello, but you are not alone. I was unable to load jpeg files into my G3 running 8.6, until I..... Well, here is a tutorial I put together on the dilemma:

Those of you who use a PC need read no farther. This brief lesson is regarding loading images to a memory stick for use in Sony cameras, such as the PD150 and the VX2000. This is a piece of cake for the PC folks who can use the software that comes with the Sony cameras, but unfortunately the software is not Mac compatible. When we try to upload images to the stick, they appear in the Mac, but will not load from within the camera. As many Mac users have discovered, the solution to this problem is not readily available on the Net.

I wanted to be able to place SMPTE color bars on the beginning of a tape, ala normal professional style shooting, and of course, the supplied camera bars are usable but do not contain some of the information that is useful for setting up a monitor in the field, or, in a post edit bay. Plus, there are times when it would be handy to be able to create a custom matte to be able to actually make the composite on the shoot, much like a matte painting. Anyway, I finally have the answer to the problem, thanks to a software called Graphic Converter from www.lemkesoft.com If you want to load accurate color bars to a memory stick, you should also download the free app, Test Pattern Maker from www.syntheticaperature.com. There are a lot of color bars floating around, and many of them are bogus. You can really make yourself crazy if you set up a monitor to incorrect color bars, and then wonder why your tapes all look weird. If you are curious about the bars you are using, import them to Photoshop and take a look at them, refering to the Info tab. You may find some strange levels. Anyway, once you have these two applications in your Mac, here is what you do:

With Test Pattern Maker, create the standard bars you wish to use, but be sure to make them 640X480 size, as those are the only dimensions you can import to the memory stick. You can make more than one set of bars, if you wish. One can be 0 setup and another 7.5. This opens up another discussion, and its your decision.

Next, open the newly created bars file in Graphic Converter. All you need to do is "save a copy" in the JPEG format pulldown. Be certain to give the copy a new name that is consistent with the files in the stick, such as, DSC00075. When asked, save at maximum quality. That's all there is to it. Unfortunately, you won't be able to get an icon with the file, even if you select that option. Maybe someone who is more computer savy than myself can figure that one out.

Now, to copy to the memory stick, simply drag and drop the new file to the memory stick in the folder which contains your still photos (that is, if you didn't save it directly from the Graphic Converter app). An important note; there must already be at least one saved photo in the file folder, otherwise there will be no folder. So if your memory stick is empty, take a still picture with your camera to create the folder, and you will be good to go.

Remember, you can create other graphics to import to the stick for compositing in the field, such as a "range finder." Sure, you could probably do it in post, but sometimes its just more fun to see the final composite when you shoot it. And often more helpful. You can also create a custom title which you can composite over the scene at the shoot. Since you can see the actual title at the shoot, you may think up ways to have your subjects interact with the title. Be sure to refer to the operating manual for tips on using chroma key or luma key stills for use with the memory stick.

I hope this brings back a smile to some Mac owners who have been cursing the Sony techs for their obvious snub.

Marcello, I hope this helps. Be sure to pay attention to the note about already having a photo on the stik.

shooting in 4x3, editing into a 16:9 movie. tips?
 

with an xl1s, if i shoot in 4x3 with the guidelines on, how do you go about cutting to "create" a 16:9 movie? i will be using final cut pro. is there a specific fcp effect that will do this for me effortlessly? thanks!

Yes, there is a filter in FCP 3 that lets you mask to any of a number of cinematic aspect ratios.

thanks for the tip, ken. can you point the way? i'm looking through all the effects but can't seem to find one related to what i want done...

scratch that... found it under FXScript DVE's. thanks again, ken!

Alternately, you can create your own mask and apply it to your sequence easily. Our own Rob Lohman has an excellent page featuring calculators and masks for this purpose.

<<<-- Our own Rob Lohman has an excellent page featuring calculators and masks for this purpose. -->>>

that is indeed an awesome tool! thanks!

don't forget that your monitor will definitely be a factor in whatever video editing you do. ever try running final cut pro using 1024x768? NOT PRETTY!