Filters
 

If at all possible, using filters during production is usually the best course of action. Certain filters can be achieved in post without much difference, ie. warming filters but other fiters can make a large difference in shooting. With this camera I have been experimenting with some softening filters and diffusion filters and have been able to reduce some hilight problems caused by the lower latitude. Trying to achieve that in post would be impossible as once it is recorded to the tape the section is already blown out. Your best bet is to figure out what filters you would use and then experiment with them on this camera in various situations and also try to achieve them in post with raw footage. You may find certain filters work better in different situtations. But as a I stated, filters in production are always better than post filters.

Mark Jervis

Thanks
 

Thanks for the quick answer....it is the 52mm filters which are to be used for this camera right ??

Filters
 

Right, 52mm. If you need any advice on what filters to use or what certain ones do please let me know.

Mark Jervis

Filter?
 

I have been shooting with my hd10 since January. I still haven't picked up any filters for it. I know I should use an ND filter, but which one is best for this camera. Brand / Stops/ Type. Any help would be great.
Cheers
Darrin

A variety is best. That way you can adapt to differant conditions. Check what a good on line retailer has to offer as far as a multi pack, maybe .3 .6 .9 at a price that works for you.
Also do a search in this HD1/10 forum for ND/ND filter or variable ND. You should get some good ideas.

Thanks
 

Thanks Ken :)

Get 2 circular polarizers and when you rotate them you'll get a variable ND filter from no effect to almost full black- give it a try!

Try to ND down to F8 or F5.6 but try not to go lower if possible. This cam loves light!

I've used the 2-polarizer trick. It's convenient, but I like the result from using a polarizer alone or in combination with a .3 or .6 ND filter better.

If it's very bright, I use the .6 ND and polarizer, or if medium bright .3 ND and polarizer, and so on. Basically what I try for, is to get the combination of partial polarization and ND that gets me near 1/60 shutter speed at the preferred aperture.

I find I can overdo it with the polarizer though. Rather than turn it down to the darkest, I try for something halfway between its maximum and minimum effect.

It helps to turn on exposure lock before adjusting the polarizer ring.

With practice, you can achieve a 100% improvement in exposure latitude.

Interesting Tom. I have never tried to E lock befor adjusting variable polarizer. Whats the therory behind that? I guess it keeps the cam from trying to compensate while adjusting? I can't believe I never tried it that way befor.
I have found that with shutter locked a 1/60 then adjusting ND/pola's down, that exposure doesn't fluxuate, but it can be tricky if the light levels change too much. Are you managing to get steady 1/60th with E locked and adjustable pola?

As you noted, E-locking the exposure before rotating the polarizer ring keeps the cam from trying to compensate, making it easier to judge the result.

And no, I'm not managing to get total assurance of 1/60th unless I lock in shutter priority.

After adjusting the polarizer ring with exposure locked, I unlock the exposure and may choose aperture priority along with ND and polarizer, toggling exposure modes to get an estimate of what the final shutter speed would be arrived at, and hopefully as close to 1/60th as possible. If the shutter speed deviates after that while panning or the light level changes, so be it.