Hd100 Died In Middle Of Shoot
 

ok, two hours ago our cam went dead. On set we had the cam already running. after sweating it out teasing the 4 small kids arranged on set look in a certain way i noticed the cam blinking Low Voltage. I then asked my grip to replace the battery. After placing the new battery i powered her up. Then nuthin. I thot i didnt place it right. I removed and replaced it. still nuthin. I attached the charger/adapter cord to power direct from the mains. Still nuthin.

Anyone has this same experience? Is there a fuse somewhere inside we can reset?

Geez. Good thing we were location shooting near our studio facility i had a back up SD camera for replacement.

Any suggestions or ideas as to what can make this happen to a seemingly robust camera?


Ted

Were there any alarm sounds or blinking tally lamps when you turn the switch on?

Tim,

Nuthin. no warnings whatsoever. I had my tech guys open her up and found out we blew a fuse. as of now her guts are all over the table.
We jumpered the contacts and she came back to life. I'm considering upping the amp of the fuse a little bit. Is this advicable?

Ted

Under most circumstances, your house, your car, your Nuclear Submarine, your HD100, this is usually a BAD idea. If something is causing a surge, probably better to figure out what that "something" is rather than bulking up the fuse capacity. Take it to Gerrysonic.

What's the location of that fuse anyway?

Brian,

John was the one who operated on her, hes the video cam surgeon. Gerysonic is the audio whiz guy. I had my hunch that the battery i replaced caused the surge . I charged it last night using a third party charger. That must have been it. He removed the blown fuse already. man its so tiny. Using a caliper, its 3mm long and 1.5mm wide.

Ted

Ted.


If the miniature fuse you took out is a wire type fuse in an enclosure, glass or whatever, sometimes it is just one of those things. There is not much difference between passing a heavy load and going open circuit.

The weather up your way is likely fairly warm all the time, indoors with lights, being powered up for a few hours?

The camera, which is a hot beast at the best of times, may have got hot enough that a normal initial surge as capactors and things in the power management of the camera sucked up a good drink of power off the new battery, might have been enough to send an already hot fuse over the edge.

Some wire fuses also work-harden from expanding and contracting with normal operating heat and can become a bit thin due to cracking and then blow across that narrower resistive section.

All my comments mean nothing if the fuse is some sort of new solid state technology.


Well and truly off-topic. - Up your way, do some of the more remote traditional villagers make do with a live .22 rifle bullet when their automobile fuses blow. It gets very interesting when the fuseholder tangs become resistive due to corrosion and the rim of the bullet warms up.

The old 1983 Toyota Dyna BU20?? trucks had their fuses up near the windscreen. One old traditional fellow in our far north decided to use a bullet. It was common practice, nice new shiny copper = good conductor, problem solved unless the wires burnt due to a short circuit.

No one thought about the heat of a resistive connection cooking off the round until it eventually exploded and put a big circle crack in the glass.

Bob,

Thats soo funny about them villagers using bullets! Hahaha! In my younger years when i shot weddings with VHS, my grip would always open the fuse box in the bride's house, and we would find all sorts of wierd jumper fuse contraptions, our own guys would sometimes use the foil in cigarette packs! But i knew of one guy who got careless not checkin the load capacity of his client that it shorted and BURNED DOWN the house!!

Back to topic, the fuse is solid state at 3.15a. Theres a big sign on the motherboard that says REPLACE WITH SAME FUSE... so i guess i'll just use same value fuse. I glad this didnt happen when i was in mid -air the day before shooting an aerial shot of beach resorts.

Ted

I was a Fireman for a long time, and we used to see people put a copper penny rather than replace one of the old glass fuses. A fuse box full of pennies. Not so great.

Ted, I think you should try the .22 bullet for your replacement fuse. Your camera would then be like one of those James Bond cameras that can actually shoot bad guys.

Hahahaha! Sounds cool! anyway, the end to this story is that i got may camera in one piece this morning, the surgeon sewed her back up with a new fuse. Now to reschedule the postponed shoot.

Ted.


We had an uncool moment here this morning on a shoot for a small feature with the HD100 / Mini35.

The owner put a DR100 on the camera. Went to power up - sulking. Pressed record - nothing. Pulled off the new stuff, rebooted the camera and --- no furthur problem ----possibly our mismanagement of the firestore controls within the HD100 but no time left to troubleshoot.

I was immediately compelled to think of your blown fuse. Otherwise, there may be something electrically bad down at the location.

There's been too many redhead bulbs blowing and the Sony HVR-Z1 which has been used on some behind-the-scenes, suddenly forgot it has manual focus, then on the next boot-up now doesn't know it has autofocus. The switch does not do anything.

There must be a bad magnetism running along this few degrees of longitude all the way to Bohol from Perth.

Bob,

Just to get you up to speed on the another thing, I'll post on the thread about my adapter the new results using Wayne Kinney's adapter achromat. You might consider using his on your set up. Or, find an equivalent. More details on the other thread. -just to put in briefly, the difference is very significant. No wonder a lot of users claim the SGpro is the sharpest edge to edge among the bunch.
Take a look at the other thread. I dont want to start another, -or should I? -regarding the achromats ideal for DIY adapters?

so you never said, what side at least is the fuse on ? or is it located in the rear of the camera in the battery mount area ? I take it that the fuse was socketed right ? I've changed them. in fact one would hope they would put a spare fuse in the camera like sure does on their FP series mixer. spare mounted right next to the active one... smart !

Ted


Wayne's lens is probably worth a good look at for a EX1 to Mini35 hack. Edge softness was observable with the Century lenses I have been using even with the 4+ as hard back as I can go with remounting the optics or trimming off some of the threaded shoulder.

The Century can't be too bad because I have been using the 58mm which goes way back to PD150 experiements. A 77mm filter mount might optically be a big ask of it.

Interestingly, the element diameters of the P+S direct relay lens for the JVC and the larger diameter dioptre which goes on front of the lens-in-camera types are smaller than I anticipated.

The front element in both is concave, not convex on its front surface, a totally different design approach it seems. The JVC relay comes with a rear cover cap which bears the trade mark of Scneider-Kreuznach.

Back on topic - the DR100 >> HD100 would not work issue is apparently my misamanagement. The menu setting for the 1394 configaration for the DR100 must be included in a save to a scene file otherwise the camera reboots to the wrong setting next time around.

The owner has been working off the factory defaults and has not ventured into the scene file system and I am so far not with the camera enbough to learn it properly without disrupting a shoot.

Steve,

The location of the fuse is right behind the plastic wall where the battery is mounted. My Cuzn Tech guy had to open the camera apart to get to that area. And no, it wasnt socketed and theres no spare. Good thing is that his electronic repair shop had a lot of stuff, including this really tiny fuse. the sharpened lead end of your pencil is bigger than it.

My guess is, worse case scenario is to jumper the contacts for those without access to these fuses and can open the cam in the field.


Ted

thanks. really dumb not to socket the fuse as it would then be field serviceable to skilled people. guess the next question is, if he replaced the fuse with a standard one, maybe getting a polyfuse ( self healing ) would make for a better repair. if it pops, let it cool off for a minute or two, and you are back up. I would not recommend jumping a fuse unless you are 100% certain there is nothing else wrong. that fuse is protecting everything else. better to burn a .05$ fuse then fry a board. given how small I know it is now, soldering wires onto the pads to add an external fuse is pretty much near impossible. even if you made the connection, flexing the wires would sooner or later rip the copper off of the PCB.

JVC GY-HD100 Fuse Question
 

Thanks so much for the info thus far on here!

I found the fuse on my HD-100 after my camera stopped working. Does anyone know where to purchase another one? All I can find on the internet is glass fuses, but what is needed is solid state (i guess???). Maybe a different search term besides solid state would help? SOC T3.15a 72v, which is whats written on the fuse, doesn't come up in searches... )-:

while a good local electronics supply place might have one... the obvious answer is call JVC and talk to their service parts dept. postage will cost more then the part, might as well order 2.

question - is it soldered or socketed ? I've got a FP33 with a mini square fuse which is changeable.

Call JVC?
 

I'm not sure JVC would mail me the part...but it is worth the shot. I'm hoping it's socketed because I pulled it out already! :-O It seemed to slide out and back in smoothly so I'm hopeful...

I'm also going to try to call my local electronics stores tomorrow.

Here's some pics:

http://seastage.com/images/IMG_0087.JPG

http://seastage.com/images/IMG_0083.JPG

It's the thing in the bottom right in the pics.

Thanks for the warning Ted, that's a spare to get and add to my "Harley saddle bags" before it's needed!

I don't see any reason they wouldn't let you buy one as long as you talk to the service parts dept. I've bought numerous parts for sony cameras : beta Sp, Hi8 pro & consumer, DAT by contacting their central NA parts service center in Kansas city. no reason to think JVC is nay different, you want the part, find its number, call & order. they sell to repair shops, you cash is just as good. at worst, you might need a local repair place order it for you. I'm sure they will take care of you.

BTW, which board was the fuse on ? the back one behind the battery mount ?

Yikes Mine Just Died too
 

My HD100 has barely been used - yea I know I should have sold it years ago. So finally today I get it out to check it out for an upcomming project and I get the low voltage message and it powered off. Put on a freshly charged battery and nothing. Tried direct power still nothing. This is just great now i own a 5000 dollar door stop. Anybody know if this is common. I swear i didn't do anything wrong. So I can try to replace the fuse I suppose that might work - any sources for the fuse? thanks Everyone for any suggestions.

just reseat the power adaptor if you have a A/B or V mount plate. sounds like cruddy contacts.

Yike minie just died too
 

Nah I'm only using the regular stock batteries. And batteries and direct connection not working. I've seen multiple posts about the fuse issue. What I cannot understand is why so unreliable. I have only used this like 50 hours total and it was in mint condition. In any case i need to get it working so I can sell it - I wonder what its worth its the original hd100 not upgraded to (a)

Just remember to take the bullet out before you board your next flight, otherwise you will find yourself on Guantanamo Bay! ;-)

Part# Fuse for a JVC GY HD-100
 

I got the part number and the fuse is on it's way! I'll update you all with the results.

Part#NMFZ020-3RI5X-S (Fuse for a JVC GY HD-100)

Their parts dept. number to order it is:
800-582-5825
option 2

Just a quick note on the service my JVC dealer provided when my HD-200 went down the day before a big shoot.

My local dealer did not have a 200 or 250 in stock, so he contacted his JVC rep to see what could be done. I had a 250 loaner in my hands by 11:00 A.M. the next morning, kept it for a week, and had my repaired camera back by the time I had to return the loaner.

To each his own, but this is why I don't buy on eBay. My dealer will usually match B&H (I know - there may be less expensive sources, but when I'm dropping anything north of $5k, I want to make sure I deal with a reputable source).

This wasn't intended to be a hijack, but since I'm the first to start bitching about poor customer service, I thought I should also throw some kudos around for the excellent service I received when I really, really needed it.

Best ~ Lee

Recieved fuse from parts dept - but how to replace it?
 

any idea on how to replace it? i pulled the old one out but not sure that the reverse is how to install. does it need to be soldered i wonder?

John,

How did you take out the dead one? its soldered and SOOOOOOOOOO tiny.

Yeah, you need a special solder for it.

Ted

Fuse replacement
 

I pulled the fuse out and it looks like some of the fuse came with it. But i have no idea how to replace such a smal fuse or even if the fuse was ever bad. I wish people would follow up on this.

Anybody know if their replacement fuse worked
 

Did it work - did you have to solder it? Anyone?