Yes the increased sharpness is probably more a factor of the glass and the much larger sensor on the F900.

Native 1080 in 24p will be sharper than 720p, it's not only a matter of lens difference. But given the cheapest native 1080 capable of 24p is the F900, I don't even feel bad for not having a 1080 progressive camera.

Stephen, how was the detail adjusted in this shot? This is the kind of stuff I sometimes do, filmic look is not a priority to me in this situations. So, if you're shooting shows and stuff where the video look is natural, how do you set the detail level?

1080p will be bigger than 720p but not necessarily sharper. The potential for a sharper image is there.

John: your'e right; I can't do much about the sensor size, but my glass on the HDCAM was in the neighborhood of $25K, street price, and the glass on the HD100, is, maybe $800.

I've asked my dealer to get in a 13x3.5 lens for testing and possible purchase. I'll report back then.

Over and out.

There's no really such thing as 1080p, but 1080 in 24p, 25p and 30p. The 1080p term gives the wrong impression and or would mean 1080 60p or 50p which doesn't exist. Just out of curiosity

I used the warm scene file (a T.Dashwood recipe) which I believe is detail set to -3 (off the top of my head).

How about this shotClick here for wmv by our friend Pete over at VidProstudios


Where do you think the detail is set to on this shot? It could easily pass for super 16, I think.

BTW: Pete said this was his very first shot. He pulled the camera out of the box and shot this on "out of box" defaults.

1080(p)rogressive (ie 1920x1080) as opposed to 1080(i)nterlaced (ie 1440x1080)....

Thanks for pointing that out amigo..

Hey Stephen, nothing personal, it's just that people use 1080p loosely when it actually doesn't exist. 720p means 720 60/50p and anything in between or in other words that it’s available in full. 1920x1080 is only available in 24p, 25p, 30p and interlaced. When you are talking about let's say 1280x720 in 24p, you normally wouldn't say 720p. 1080p doesn't exist, at least yet. I'm not sure I'm making any sense here, but I know you know what I’m talking about. I was just pointing it out of curiosity to others, because as I said 1080p is used so loosely. 1080p is not the same thing as 1080 progressive, even though many think it is

By the way are those clips shot in 30p and with the stock lens?

You're absolutely right Micheal, my oversight. Anyway, those shots were taken 24p with the stock lens. I think the stock lens is much maligned. Take a look at the pan down the neck of the guitar. You can see the grain in the wood on the fret board as the camera moves down the neck. The 1280x720 CCD's are providing the incredible resolution as the camera is in motion. This is a feather in the cap of JVC because full resolution CCD's are what make the camera have such great detail in static as well as motion shots.

JVC gambled on the 2 CCD per block solution but it is worth it when you see the results of retained resolution when the camera is in motion. Now that the SSE has been "tamed" to a large degree and people are starting to see the quality of the camera's image, I believe we'll see more adopters of ProHD. Don't You?

Something I keep seeing people throw out there is HDV has trouble with action type shots. Since the HD100 samples fewer frames I'd guess it would be better than the others.

I just saw the lacrosse footage -- it does seem a little "Gladiator-ish" at times... but that may have been the shutter speed. Anybody have thoughts on this topic?

Also - do you know if the promos at http://www.vidprostudios.com are HD100?

^

Wise words my friend.

What footage?

The lacrosse footage Stephen linked to.
http://www.vidprostudios.com/media/R...20Lacrosse.wmv

I agree. I wouldn't turn it off completely (unless you are doing a 35mm blowup - make sure you test first!!!)
MIN is as low as I would ever go, or the softness level may exceed what you can pull back by adding detail in post. Just make sure you are using a good HD monitor when establishing your ideal detail setting.
I've gone as high as +4 for high-contrast "bleach-bypass" style looks and as low as MIN for candlelit romantic scenes. My general suggested compromise setting is -6 or -7. You will still have enough edge enhancement that any image will look sharp, but not so much that it stands out as "video."