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"painfully slow servo zoom and... non-functioning auto focus"
The latest issue of EventDv magazine had a review of the HVX200. It liked the camera, but said it has a "painfully slow zoom servo and almost non-functioning auto-focus. For all practical purposes, the auto-focus doesn't function if you zoom in or out during a shot."
Comments from users? Also, is the transition between one P2 card to the next seamless, or is there any sort of gap in recording? |
from all reports, the transition from card to card is seemless...
as for the zoom focus, this can be turned on or off in the menu. the DVX also has this... It seems they havent tweaked the settings or someone tweked the settings and didnt reset them before the "review"considering teh resolutions were talking abotu, autofocus in prgressive mode is about 1/3 the speed of interlaced... again, teh DVX is also affected by this.. |
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Where is this "zoom focus"? Not in the menus which I just reviewed in the book...
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I set both both zoom and focus on manual.
I don't use the zoom button often and find it's a lot quicker to frame a shot with the manual zoom control. And I generally don't trust autofocus and manually focus all shots. |
Doesn't this camera have the same limitation as some of the others like the DVX and the XL series in that it only has one motor for both functions. Therefore, you can't zoom and focus at the same time.
Just curious since that would explain the statement made by the magazine. -gb- |
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The servo also jumps between 0 and about 5%...you can't really feather it all the way off or on. It's a cheap servo. Apparently someone at Panasonic (name omitted to protect the honest) admitted as much in a burst of candor. It's pretty clear, given the upcoming new mid-price cameras to be released, that an advance marketing decision was made to not build the 200 so good that it'd cannibalize the more expensive models. |
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The HVX takes about three to three and a half seconds to zoom from full wide angle to 13x zoom. From 4.2 to 55mm takes a bit over three seconds at its fastest speed.
Of course, you can disable the servo and execute a "snap zoom" from full wide to full tele, or back, in about 1/10th of a second. Do either of those sound "painfully slow"? |
I read in one thread that you have to turn the zoomring a lot to go from wide to to max. zoom, can you elaborate on that? Is it different than other cams?
Bye the way I received your great HVX book :-))) |
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Now, the focus ring, that's different, yes you have to turn the focus ring a lot further than you do with other cameras. Quote:
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That's why JVC offers its b&w/colored-peaking "focus assist" mode, and user-dialable peaking. That's why Sony & Canon both have full-screen magnified focus assist. And why the HVX has peaking, a magnified focus assist window, and an accurate distance readout. Use the combination of tools and you'll do just fine. But if you want to just gauge focus by using the LCD by itself, you'll be sorely disappointed by the results, with all of these cameras. |
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I LOVE the manual zoom on this camera! For the price range, I think it's fantastic.
I've found that by turning off the auto-zoom and holding the lens barrel with my right hand by the microphone support, four fingers down the right side, thumb around the post and on the zoom ring, then the left hand thumb and forefinger on the zoom ring, I can get a very nice controlled fast or slow zoom. If I'm hand-held, I also steady the camera against my body, and also can focus nicely with the left hand. It also helps to keep the fingers tightly on the zoom ring, to eliminate inadvertent muscle twitches. With three fingers from both hands on the zoom ring, I can get nice, controlled, fast or slow and ramped zooms that fit the action and composition perfectly. |
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The question is -- is it enough to make a difference? No, not really, I've shot with 'em side-by-side and while the Sony's LCD is better in broad daylight, it's still nowhere near up to the task of being used by itself to determine proper focus. It's like you need fifty bucks to buy something; the HVX's LCD gives you $10, the Sony gives you $12. Yes $12 is better than $10, but you still aren't anywhere near being able to afford the thing you want. So you still need focus assist, you still need to check in with one-touch-autofocus, etc. You absolutely have to use peaking or you don't stand a chance. And that is true of all these cameras. Try the Canon's viewfinder for example. Or the JVC's. You'll quickly understand that it is simply not possible to work with these LCDs like we used to on standard-def. You have to use other focus assist tools, the LCDs by themselves are nowhere near adequate for the task. |
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