Richard, thanks, I wish to order but need to find 2 V-mount batteries and a charger. Any recommendation?
I love the softbox you sell with the 600 - just what we need.

Francois, if you happen to be in Central Switzerland give me a call. I can show you my Coollights LED setup. I have three 600's with softboxes and two 256's.
I' located in Cham near Zug. You'll find me under augenblick dot net.

Peter

Thanks Francois for your interest. You might try globalmediapro.com, I know a lot of people choose that one and I've got a couple of them myself. They work fine. Otherwise a lot of the Bescor battery belt solutions are very economical but of course much larger and heavier so its a tradeoff between battery size and weight for price to get the more compact lithium types like those used for the V mount or AB mount kind.

Peter thanks for helping out like that. Peter is quite an LED expert as well so he can explain a lot about what you're seeing if you go by there.

Hi Richard

I didn't dare to mention globalmediapro here, but as a matter of fact I have all my LED600's run on batteries from them and they are perfect. 190Wh RED compatible that is.

Peter

Hi Peter, I know what you mean. ;-)

I'm sure this is a silly question, and sorry for going a bit off-topic here, but for the LED 256's I just ordered, I ordered the Sony L-Series adapter plate as the battery option. I'm assuming this is the battery I'm looking for (or it's 4400mAh cousin):

Sony | NP-F970 Info-Lithium Battery Pack | NPF970 | B&H Photo

And since I don't have any L-Series batteries, I'll need to get a charger for that as well. I have the EX1 which uses the BP-series batteries, and I'm assuming the charger for that isn't appropriate at all.

The battery is relatively inexpensive - compared to an AB or EX1 battery for example - any reason to use a third-party battery instead of Sony? Any recommendations from users of the LED 256 or other consumers of the L-Series battery that I might keep in mind?

Ryan, we have the NP-F970 battery and charger at a more affordable price. The rating is higher too 6000mah.

NP-F970 Sony Compatible Rechargeable Battery | L.A. Color Shop
BC-V500 / BC-V615 Sony Compatible Battery Charger | L.A. Color Shop

So much the better to get the 6 ah one from Taky. That would give you quite a bit more time.

Thanks much, Richard and Taky. Looks like the way to go.

Ryan, package already shipped. Thanks for shopping with us.

Richard, thanks for the Richard Andrewski approval stamps .. hehe :)

Thanks for the quick turnaround Taky. Looking forward to these and the 256's...

Taky, would you choose the 5600K version (of the LED256) for wedding use? (I'm a Comer 1800 user).

5600K is day light balance. If you use it indoor, video will come up very cool/blue. People in the video will look like dead body. So you will need to have some sort of CTO gel to lower the color temperature to be used indoor.

Galen, I am going to answer here, because I think Taky might give the wrong answer, based on my personal experience with daylight balanced lights and Tungsen. BTW I also use the Comer 1800s as well.
I picked up the 5600k versions of the Coolight 600 and 256.
The reason is that the lights come with 3 sets of gels, one being a 3200k tungsten filter.
The 5600k light has stronger output than the 3200k anyway, so I would have rather had a daylight light that I can use in front of large windows for mixed indoor lighting shoots and if needed gel to 3200k.

5600k will give you more options. 3200k will limit you to shooting pretty much indoors only, and if you wanted to gel to daylight, you will lose more light output from a light that already has less throw than a 5600k led light.

This is why many shooters prefer daylight balanced lights. More options.

Oh an BTW, the lights work great indoors.
I have been using them for a couple months now and love them.

Given the discussion here around the Coollights 600 and 256, I have a few questions about LEDs from CL, specifically the 600.

1. Are the LED lights considered "soft" like a flo, or are they hard like a tungsten light? Meaning if I want them to be soft will I need to put a softbox in front of them like I would with an open-face or fresnel?

2. I know that overall throw is the primary difference between the 600 flood and spot, but is there a "general rule of thumb" as to which might be better for someone to have in their kit over the other (kind of like having your lights at 5600k is a better rule of thumb even if you need 3200k since you can balance down to 3200k more easily)? I can see the flood being more "broad" and thus being a more interesting general purpose light, but perhaps having the spot with a softbox is almost the same, such that unless you have one of each you might as well just get the 600 in spot and a softbox for when you need it to disperse more broadly?

3. I have a 455 PMD from CL and love it - and was thinking of getting another. However, I'm wondering now if I wouldn't be better served getting the LED 600 instead. Can someone help me understand why I might use a flo vs. and LED and vice-versa? I imagine this might be related to question #1 above.

4. Michael, Richard, and others that understand the LED offerings from CL - other than the previously-mentioned use of fresnels to throw cookie patterns on the wall with the necessary softness that you can't get from essentially a multi-lighted panel like an LED, when would you see yourself needing a tungsten light kit instead of the LEDs? Basically I have a 3-light Arri 650W open-face kit that I'd love not to have to haul around to make sure that I have enough lighting for interviews, small narrative lighting, etc. Am I mistaken thinking that I can replace that kit entirely with something like my 455PMD (4-bank Coollights flo - with both 5600k and 2900k bulbs), 2x LED 256's, and say an LED 600 or two (yet to be purchased)? Where might I find myself unpleasantly surprised if I got rid of the Arri kit and went 100% flo and LED? I do still have 2 650W CL fresnel's so I won't be truly 100% tungsten-free, but you understand what I'm saying...


Thanks again for all the help! I can't imagine what I'd be doing with lighting and filmmaking without your guys' help on this board... :)

1). LEDs fall in between flos and tungsten / hmi fresnel type instruments in terms of hardness. Its a big source comprised of a bunch of miniature spotlights. Each spotlight puts out a hard light, but is too weak by itself to do much. Together they form a useful light but also one with a big surface area so it doesn't render cookies well but it is more hard and has more throw than a flo for sure.

2). Flood by itself isn't as soft and the flood or spot in the softbox, thats why we did that attachment. Regarding the comments on point 1 above, you have to soften up either a flood or a spot further if you like soft light.

3). They all have their place. You can't use a flo as easily in some places where power may be an issue like in a car, or a cave. LEDs are super efficient and can operate easily off of DC power without more help other than a battery. Flos may be better and more economical for use in a studio for example for lighting a cyc. LEDs would be horribly expensive for lighting a large cyc. So they both have their uses and strong points as well as points for improvement.

4). Hard to say. You have some people out there that love tungsten and won't give it up for various reasons. That type of person maybe wouldn't like fluorescent or LEDs either. You already have our CL-455PMD and you like the results so you don't seem to fall in that category. I'd say that if you like the flo, but there are times it seems too big or it just doesn't work as well (man on the street interview, etc.) then you'd love the LEDs for where they are strong. I'll try to think of other things and repost later.

Thanks for the response, Richard. Helpful as always. A couple of follow-ups:

2. So for a hair/accent light a spot would be a better choice, but for a key light the flood might be the one to look for? Any reason that the spot with a softbox wouldn't make as decent a key light vs. a flood with the softbox? I noticed also on your site that you only have an option for the LED 600 5600k in spot configuration - are you currently out of the flood 5600k?

3. Noted - this makes sense, thanks for the clarification.

2). Yes the spots are probably better hair lights although since the floods are still pretty hard, they can work as well. I generally recommend spots for use with the softbox because they're more powerful and can provide more light to make it through the diffusion. The floods will work too but are a bit weaker out of the softbox. So the softbox and a spot are a great key. With the dimmer you can turn it down if its too powerful for some reason.

We are currently out of floods, they went quick but hopefully will have some more soon.

Richard - much thanks for the reply. There is a sale at the end o this relentless questioning, I promise. :)

So it sounds like the spot is the way to get especially as you're out of 5600k floods anyway.

I have two softboxes for your 650 fresnels - are they the same as the LED softboxes and if so, do you sell the speed ring attachment for the LED lights independently so I can just pick up one of those and use my existing softboxes?

Ryan the speed ring is built into the LED600s Softbox.
It's super easy to setup, as it simply unfolds and pops open, then you just slide it over the light with the supplied accessory holder.

I must say it's truly a very creative design.

Thanks, Michael - good to know. I'll plan to pick up the softbox when I pick up one of the LED 600's.

As Michael said (Thanks Michael!), its a different design than the other softboxes and requires a different speedring. We wanted something new, fresh and easy to setup as well to go along with the whole idea behind these fixtures which is to make everything as portable and compact as possible. So the "speed softbox" is just that, fast to setup without the rods of the older style "studio" softbox.

Yeah, I'm not a fan of the rods, honestly. I always make sure to wear my glasses when I'm fiddling with those because I have visions of those things snapping up and nailing me in the face. "It's all fun and games until someone loses an eye...". :)

Thanks, Richard.

Are you ever going to make a Sony BP battery mount, for the EX batteries? I would really love this!

Was just shooting with a 600 this weekend - something I'm noticing is that LED panels can't be compared directly with either fluorescent or incandescent in terms of 'hardness' as they really combine aspects of both. You get a reasonably diffuse light which is flattering to faces, similar to a flo - but you also get hard specular highlights which tend to highlight oil, sweat, etc on your subject's face. Haven't tried the softbox yet but an opal over the panel definitely smoothes out the highlights.

I didn't have any plans to make the BP adapter at this time but you never know in the future if its popular enough and enough call for it we may do. The mold fees are really high for this kind of thing so there has to be a lot of call for it to pay that back.

Evan - what's an "opal"? Are you talking about the diffuser that ships with the LED 256?

Hi:

Opal is a very common grade of diffusion.

Dan

battery voltage
 

Hi,

I got some LED600 fixtures from CoolLights and I'm wondering about which battery to choose. I've seen you guys using the NP-970 style batteries but that only gives 7.2 volts and the lights need 10-24v. This might be a silly question but how can the lights operate from a smaller voltage supply? Any advice here, Richard?

Thanks,
Zsolt

Hi Zsolt,

That's the LED 256 that runs on that particular battery. It's not meant for the LED 600 at all. You need either a lead acid type battery belt like some that Bescor makes, or in general any battery solution that provides a standard 4 pin XLR output.

An AB mount type or a V lock type is another choice but you need the interface we sell to go with either of those. I don't generally recommend that someone buy those though unless they already happen to have some for their camcorder. Its a tradeoff of size/weight for cost basically as those AB or V types are quite a bit more expensive.

BTW Richard, what should the runtime be on the LED256 with Sony 950 or 970 battery.
I ask because mine are draining pretty fast.

I was getting about 90 minutes with the Sony batteries on the LED256.

Dan

90 minutes or so is about right.

filters
 

Can someone tell me what do the full,1/2,1/4 factors mean in the filter namings? In particular, I'm interested in how many stops of light do they cut down from the overall output of a source.

Thanks,
Zsolt

According to Rosco International a full CTO filter is 1.1 stop loss, 1/8 CTO is .1 stop loss, etc... Next to their sample images is a spectral chart icon which tells you the amount of light absorbed from each filter.

The 1/4 minus green is about .3 stop loss. The 1/2 minus green is about .5 stop loss. Yes, the full CTO is about 1 stop loss.

Jem Schofield at thec47.com has posted a gearbox video episode with the led 600 (spotlight, flood, and flood with softbox) here. It helps illustrate the differences.

theC47: learn... camera » lighting » audio » post » tech - gearbox - MessingAround

In this link, here demonstrates the Sunlight Supply Tek-lights, a flo solution cheaper than the kinoflos.
theC47: learn... camera » lighting » audio » post » tech - gearbox - Feeling GreenPt.3

Yeah, Jem is a fan, super prolific in his VLOG and has a lot of our equipment. I think he's done at least 5 or 6 segments on Cool Lights equipment alone. Thanks to Jem and to Allan for posting those links.

I'm looking to compliment my existing MicroPro light for talking head interviews. I'm thinking of buying 2 600 coollights (1 spot and 1 flood). Using Flood as my keylight, Spot as a fill, and MicroPro as a backlight. Would that be the best option?

John:

I have the two 600s, one spot, one flood as the basis of my travel/interview kit. The Coollights LED256 would be the superior and logical choice as your third light in the kit. In that way, you would know that the color rendition and balance between all three lights would be pretty much the same. Mixing manufacturers may find that the Coollights 5mm LEDs render colors differently than the LEDs in your MicroPro.

The LED 600s rock and the LED 256 is a dream of a light. Small, powerful, simple to use. I really, really love my Coollights, they have changed the way I light.

Dan