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-   -   New LED Lights (https://www.dvinfo.net/forum/photon-management/48532-new-led-lights.html)

Gints Klimanis September 27th, 2005 07:13 PM

Are there any LED bulbs that approach the brightness of a 100W incancdescent ? I'd just like to try these out as a porch light.
The only bulb-type product I've found at the 100W level is
the non-flashing "obstruction" bulb (138 wrhite LEDs for $60) at the bottomof this page :

Daniel Lam October 6th, 2005 11:32 AM

LED Light
In Tokyo, I came across several LED Video lights last May. Bought DLL-630 wiith dimmable 63 LEDs and shoe mount. Color temp is daylight white approx. 5600K. Luminosity is about 120lux, equivalent to 20-25W of halogen with B3 filter.

Good point is one spare battery of my PD170 can be attached to power the light. They have one for DVX-100A. Price in Japan was almost USD350. It is now available at http://www.digitalquest.co.jp. Good for interview subjects.

Nathan Rodger November 1st, 2005 08:54 AM


Originally Posted by Giroud Francois

finished my 2nd led lamp.
here some pictures

leds alone

how they are distributed on the heatsink

2 views of the finished model.

I just receive the power driver allowing variable illumination (0-100%)
it works very well.

Very cool little project mate - any vids of w/o and with the Luxeon LED array as lighting? Just want to guage its effectiveness and if they are too 'hot'. I've got quite a few Luxeons flashlights that blow away incandescants - but are VERY 'hot' and focused light sources.. .Not really suitable for flood purposes due to the focusing reflectors.

Cheers, Nathan.

Chiayi Fun December 22nd, 2005 01:55 PM


I am "tmtcman"

this is my DIY led lamp

Charles Hodgson January 24th, 2006 08:13 AM

Wiring Digram
What an excellent project!

Would it be possible to give a wiring diagram for this lamp. Especially the eight leds (series/parallel), driver & dimmer. Components are expensive and would not want to stuff it up.


Charles Hodgson February 21st, 2006 03:50 PM

Wiring Diagram
I know asked this some time back but I would really appreciate if I could get a wiring diagram for Giroud's light project featured in this topic.

Giroud Francois February 22nd, 2006 12:32 PM

that is easy. Each luxeon led has 4 square soldering pad.
they are labelled + or - to indicate polarity.
the goal is to wire the led in a way it matches the voltage and the power you intend to use.
each led need about 3.5 to 3.7V, so if you plan to use li-ion elements, you can put as much led in serie (connect a + pad to the - of next led. you end up with a string of led with + and - at each end of the string).
In my project i plan 14.4 V power (4x li-ion cell in serie), so i put 4 leds in serie but you can do the same with 7.2V (2 leds- 2 cells) , 10.8V (3 leds- 3 cells).
each led is eating about 350mA (while a regular li-ion cell can provide 2000mA, so you get the capacity, about 4 hours of light).
When leds are put in series, the serie still sucks 350mA, because it is the voltage who increases.

As the driver i use is able to drive 700mA (2x350), i build 2 series of 4 leds and put them in parallel (that mean, you put together, the + of each string and do the same for the - extremities).
Then you got a total of 8 leds, but you would have 2x2 (4) or 2x3 (6) , it is the same, only the voltage you supply will change.

for example if you plan to go leaded battery, with only 12 V you will be limited to 3 leds in series (10.8 Volt fits 12V , while 14.4 will not).

So if you need a lot of leds, you get the choice to increase voltage and put more leds in series (but the driver is limited to around 30V), or increase the current drive of the module (they exist in 350, 700 and 1000 mA, allowing to put 1,2 or 3 led (or serie of led) in parallel)

the problem is you need to eat the mAmps provided by the driver.
if you purchase a 700mA driver, you will have to put at least 2 leds in parallel, else you got the led (expecting 350mA) feeded (fed ?) with 700mA, and it will overheat and burn (leds are very finnicky with the current provided).

the wiring itself depends the way you dispose the leds on the support (prefferably an Alu plate that can help to coold down the led, but each led being self cooled, so , in theory you would not really need to add supplemental heatsink or its size does not really matter).
get the leds disposed the way they should be and rotates them in a way you can have a + pad from a led closer to a - pad of the next led. This way the lenght of wiring is kept to minimum.
keep in mind too, where the power wire will connect (from the side, top , center of plate) so you can organize the pad and leds correctly.
this way you can build a lamp that is like a ring aroud the camera lens, or a simple plate, or many leds with long wire you can you can use as as many point of light. (mounting some with lens to have a focused light source, or in a ping-pong ball to have a diffuse source.
it looks a bit tricky , but it is really simple.

Charles Hodgson February 22nd, 2006 07:06 PM

Thanks heaps. I really appreciate your help and information.

Charlie Collias March 6th, 2006 08:15 AM

Hi Guys,

Very interesting project, Giroud. I would like you all to check out what we will be announcing at NAB (Booth #C9410) this year. Surf over to http://www.zylight.com and check out the Z50.

Our palm sized LED light can change from 3200K white light to 5600K white light at the push of a button. It also has as creative color mode where the light can output any color of the rainbow. There are two presets for storing your favorite color and there is an on-board dimmer. You can attach any 3" accessory you have (Dedo, Arri) to the front of the light with our adapter plate.

Its a flexible little light and I invite you to read through the web site to view many picture and see what is coming out at the end of April. You can also add yourself to our mailing list.

LED's are changing the way people light everyday. Soft, even light output (on some models) give a subtle quality that not a lot of lights can deliver. Combine that "look" with the reliability and ruggedness and its no wonder why DIY guys are building them. Very exciting stuff.

Thanks for reading.

Patrick King March 6th, 2006 09:01 AM

OK Charlie,

No free plug without the details.

What will it cost?
When is it available?
What is the light output (what does that 22w equate to in luminence)?

Looks very promising. Tell us more!

Charlie Collias March 6th, 2006 09:52 AM

You right Patrick. No free rides so here you go. There is no output lost in either 3200 or 5600k mode. Runs off of AC or Anton Bauer PowerTap connector. Weighs 11 oz.

Very wide, useable area of light. Our product takes more of the usable light output and distributes it over a wider area. To accomplish that, you need to produce a lot of light and the LED's we use do that. There are no lenses and still its very bright and wide. The best way to put it is that its not a narrow beam but a wide, uniform, full light. There are NO hotspots or deadspots which some LED lights produce. Just shine them on a white wall and see for yourself.

Cost is still being hammered out. Lights will be available for sale on our web site and possibly at the show at the end of April. Light output is close to a 20-25 watt light. Photometrics have not been done yet but very soon.

Again, our light has a lot of usable output over a wider area than any other LED source. If your subject is 2-3' in front of the camera, its great. Two person interview, bring it on. It's not necessarily a "camera light" either. Put it on a stand, clamp it to a door, suction cup it to a window and add some color. You will be really surprised at the quality and quantity of light. Product shots take on a new look. A quick slash on a backdrop is easy with this. Don't run for gels but just turn a dial on the back of the light and find the color you or your client wants.

Patrick, come by and see us in NAB. I look forward to giving you a demo!

Patrick King March 6th, 2006 12:18 PM


Thanks for the additional info. I'm very interested in acquiring an LED light or two and yours sounds pretty useful.

I didn't read the first time that you're a Tourist or I wouldn't have been such a smart aleck. We like to welcome new folks here, not scare them away. You did a great job of providing additional info though and I'm sure I won't be the only member to benefit from it. Thanks for the quick response.

I wish I could attend NAB, but this pesky work thing has me nailed down. I'll keep checking your website though!

Charlie Collias March 6th, 2006 05:48 PM

No problem, Patrick.

I wish you could get your hands on one to see it. Check back to the website often beacuse we are putting things up everyday. Mostly pictures so people can get a good idea of what it can do.

They will be for sale at the end of April. Thanks!

Hey. Ive been updated to "New Boot"!

Marc Ries March 6th, 2006 06:05 PM


Originally Posted by Charlie Collias
You right Patrick. No free rides so here you go.

Strategically missing was a price estimate, which makes me think of the saying, "If you need to ask, you probably can't afford it".

We need some outfit like Peltz to make a caving multi-LED light with a cold-shoe attachment at affordable prices...

Jack D. Hubbard March 6th, 2006 06:49 PM

Hi Charlie:

What connectors do you use. Can use a 4-pin adapter to go into a 12 volt nrg belt?

Would really like to hear a ball park price from you.


Jack Hubbard

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