Re: Daylight shooting in the woods
 

Charles. Thank you for your responses.

In the scene exercise, I had about 90 minutes to shoot it on my own. The green was mainly a problem with Andrew when I was trying to make it all match.

Our coastal sandhill vegetation includes a low sort of ground cover I believe called scaevola. It roams over the hummocks and ridges between the shrubs. It seems a very iridescent green. Amy's position was alongside a sandy path which was much wider near her and light coming off was purer. In retrospect, I probably could have added more contrast on Amy in editing.

As in all things, a little knowledge is dangerous. I did not know a lot then and probably not a lot more now.

Dvinfo and generous inputs from yourself and others have been very helpful over the years and much appreciated.

Re: Daylight shooting in the woods
 

Hi & thank you for these very interesting replies .

Hopefully I have now uploaded the correct pictures.

in 'seq4-2' no attempt at correcting the green hue in the face was made as the sequence was destined for heavy grading. Without grading, the young woman looks ill and even the off-white stripes on the t shirt look odd. Cam setting was superwide.

for 'jeunefemme_lys...' I checked the shooting log which says a 4kw ?? was used with 1/2 CTO and sunlight was bounced in with a large mirror. The cam setting was superwide and it's not yet graded, yet the green hue on skin is minimal.

My original point is that it isn't possible to use settings or filters to dial the green hue out of the skin, without skewing the vegetation. I'm going to be in a forest which is really not accessible to trucks, so this precludes going Charles' way and adding light , as in 'jeunefemme_lys' .

Bill suggested using make-up to correct. That's an interesting idea which I'll definitely try out.
Other suggestions include some portable LED,s on or near the cam - that might still work for medium shots (but nothing wider) and would also provide an eyelight. Maybe CTO on the LED might also help. But matching the takes will be a real problem.

Another solution I've considered is gold or gold/silver bounce, but the light under the dense forest canopy may be too diffuse.

Poor weather in France has delayed the shoot so I can't report back from the front.





http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/attachme..._lys_large.jpg

Re: Daylight shooting in the woods
 

I still maintain that white materials are going to be your best bet for "erasing" the green tint. Even if there is no direct sun to bounce a noticeable fill onto the subject, remember that the ground cover and bushes etc. don't have sun on them either, it's just the sheer amount of green surrounding them that adds up to a reflective surface. It wouldn't take nearly as much white to overpower. Lay out white sheets held in place with rocks, use snap-type bounces near the subject for closeups. Couldn't hurt to have some black also for negative fill (will also "erase" the ambient green). Passive fill is a particularly useful tool and I use it all the time.

Re: Daylight shooting in the woods
 

I always set the whitebalance in the woods where I am making my shots. Light there is green but you can balance it out when making a white balance. The same when handball players play on a blue or yellow floor - let som reflected light from the floor reach your white balance card and the wrong colour tone has gone.