Frame / Panel reflector kits
 

Just wanted to plug my favorite lighting tool - the Photoflex frame/panel reflector kit (or anything similar)

The main reasons I love it:

• easy setup to diffuse direct overhead sunlight
• it's a pleasure to shoot with the sun behind the subject, nice for models in the street or park and especially nice for weddings with a gorgeous picture window behind the wedding couple
• easy light fill for large groups or full length shots
• simple way to bounce back light into a scene in low light

Originally, I got it for shooting acting and modeling headshots (photography), but it's so gee whiz great I started using it for wedding/event videography and short films. It is the most used item in my kit, especially for outdoor shots. And it looks fairly elegant so it's easier to convince people to use it for nice venues, and it's large enough that you can just set it and go.

Hey Michael - Thanks for the post. As luck would have it, I was just about to post a query, as I'm trying to figure out an affordable butterfly/overhead setup. I don't want or need one of those 20x20' rigs, on the other hand the one you linked to seems to be vertical only (what if I want to cut the sunlight on a group of people?) and uses only 1 stand.

I had thought about making my own frame (PVC tubing + RipStop Nylon) and maybe around 6x8' to cover group shots. But for the life of me, I can't figure out a way to support it between 2 stands and get it so I can swivel it in different sun conditions. This pic is what I am using as a model.

"I can't figure out a way to support it between 2 stands and get it so I can swivel it in different sun conditions. This pic is what I am using as a model."

Jack...

If you're building it out of PVC, then what about using a 4-way connector at the pivot point, then making an "axle" that slips over the top of the C-Stand at a right angle (so that the axle is in a horizontal position), and slips nicely into the 4-way connector?

Also, keep in mind that PVC isn't really that stiff. So you'll probably have to do some cross-bracing on the longer of the two dimensions. Otherwise the ripstop won't have enough tension to keep from flapping around too much.

The only other problem, at least for where I live, is wind. Even a 4' x 4' reflector can be a little tough for one person to control at times. One solution is a lot of sandbags and sand, at least for where I live, is fairly abundant.

:-)

You'll need a Main/T-Clamp.

Here are the links for the full setup:
Photoflex Frame / Panel (aluminum version)
Photoflex Medium Light Stand
Main/T-Clamp

You know, this site (as I've said before) and you guys are outstanding! Never do I ask a question without getting a quick and cogent answer. I took the time to look more closely at the Photoflex web site and saw that they also make a 77x77" frame (perfect) and my flipping between websites, I was able to come up with my own "kit" from B&H

- Photoflex 77x77" frame
- Photoflex 77x77" crossbar
- Translucent 77x77" fabric
- Black/White 77x77" cover (I have lots of gold and silver)
- (2) Main/T-clamps
- Photoflex bag

$337.40 before shipping. Just what I want - not worth my time to make something that may or may not work.

As Dean pointed out, Hawaii has lots of wind. The trade winds make 15mph constant wind a reality almost the whole year. I consider it a blessing as it keeps us comfortable, but reflectors can be a pain. I've thought that a white screen might be a good diffuser that would be a bit less prone to wind effects. Does anyone know where to find white screen/porous fabric that is strong? There is sun blocking black screen that is woven with extra threads compared to regular insect screen, but it only comes in black. Any ideas?

Maybe you could try Organza. It's tough, stiff, and cheap.

Marcus,

Rose Brand, I use their NY store however they have an LA one as well.
http://www.rosebrand.com/A_Com/showp...ectGroup_ID=36

Check out the 60" ¼ Stop Silk (Chiffon), FR it comes in black or white also check out the 72" Cinenet, FR (Bobbinette) or one of the wider widths. It also comes in black or white.

By your description I think the white ¼ stop silk chiffon might be the ticket.

Bill

Organza looks a bit light for my desires, but maybe doubled it would work. I really hate out-of-control highlights in video since I think exposure latitude is probably video's biggest flaw. I really want to knock down highlights a full f-stop and that is what the black screen I already have does. I checked out Rose Brand and they have a vast assortment of exactly what we are talking about. They even have a "film and video sample card" that has all sorts of scrims of black, white, and temperature lowering/raising screens and fabrics. I bookmarked them and I'm probably going to call them when the store is open.

I thought of something for the frame. PVC is too flexible for getting good tension, but it is easy to find connectors. Wood is harder to make instant connectors that are reversible, but it is stiff. Perhaps PVC pipes with wood dowels stuck inside for stiffness are a good DIY compromise?

I wish there were collapsible scrim frames like the circular/oval folding reflectors. I need something really portable and a bunch of PVC parts can be a mess. I always lose one.

Marcus....

I made a 3' x 6' scrim using aluminum tubing as a frame. That came out quite stiff and is easily disassembled.

For a larger frame I'd use 1"x3" wood (probably lightweight pine or similar) and create joints that are easily slipped together using aluminum pins.

If you need help I got some pretty good tools at hand. I'm going to have to build a frame for a green screen soon.

I made the 4’x4’ frame in this photo with ½” EMT electrical conduit.
http://cinebydesign.net/film/set-test.jpg

There are two ways to do it, one is to cut the conduit to length and make a 90º bend in it.
The second is to buy the bends pre-made then cut the conduit to length.
The advantage here is you can change lengths at will. I attached the frame pieces together with regular EMT connectors with the exception that I replaced the screws with set screws that sit below the connector when tightened. This eliminates a “catching” problem and looks better. In the middle of the two uprights I drilled a ¼ “ hole and bent two washers to conform to the circumference of the conduit. I also made a pair of 5/8” pins.
A ¼ “ bolt goes through a washer from the inside of the frame, another washer on the outside of the frame then in to the 5/8” pin. When the pin is tightened it squeezes evenly around the frame. Use your favorite stands and gripheads.

You know have a sturdy light weight frame for lager sizes just use larger conduit.

Bill

Wow Bill, that's pretty nifty looking! Sure would like to see a detail of the bolt/washers/pin connection. Also, how are you holding your diffusion in place? Can't quite tell from the pic.

Your wish is... well you know the rest. :-)
As you can now see I make my own elastic cords and use s-hooks to hold the diffusion.

Bill

So that looks like a 5/8" spud coming off the frame.

Do you use c-stands with grip heads and just chuck it in, or do you use some specialty clamp on a light stand?

****************************
For those not familiar, the 5/8" spud is manufactured by Lowel, Mathews, and perhaps others. Readily available from lighting suppliers.

Seth,

I use a 2 1/2" grip head on a lightstand and just chuck it in.

Bill

Bill,

"I also made a pair of 5/8” pins."

Now I have to get a lathe! This video hobby is getting out of hand. Oh, wait, it's my job too...

Dean,

I wouldn't mind getting together and seeing how you've created your gear. It's hard to find people in the between zone above amateur but without the big budget. Most of the guys I know doing shorts aren't as into the technology and tools of the trade as myself.


I'm thinking of making one of the conduit models like Bill's, only larger, since I have some 3/4" conduit left over from another project. I've thought of something like that before, but I couldn't come up with an easy way of hanging and adjusting it. Thanks for the ideas!

I just realized something. Half the savings in making things myself is from the reduced need for shipping. I've bought some equipment where the shipping costs almost as much as the gear itself. Of course, that is amplified by my location.

Yeah, I was kind of wondering about that too. A 5/8" stud with 1/4" female thread is only $5 (see pic), but I guess if you've got a lathe lying around, and the skills, and the will.....

Well let's see I needed them on a Saturday and it was Friday so I order them from B&H and they ship on Monday I'm in a one day zone from NYC so they arrive on Tuesday afternoon hmm a little late I'm afraid.
Or since I have 5/8' aluminum rod already I can make half a dozen in less than an hour, hey look I have them when I need them wow!

Now I realize not everybody has a lathe and machining skills, however I do.
I also keep some the Avenger pins around I just got caught short, now I could have taken them from something else but that goes against my personality make up so I made my own.

Now you do not have to wonder any longer. :-)

I'm just giving you a hard time, Bill. I thought it was hilarious that you through that out so casually. The build really is simple, until the lathing is thrown in. I'll probably be a customer for a pre-made version considering my skill level.

Thanks for that link, Jack, I was having trouble finding those pins with female threads for some reason. The ones with male threads (i.e. a bolt) don't have enough threads to accomodate going through the conduit and a couple of washers.

Marcus...

I'd be happy to share some of the techniques I've used to make things. Hadn't had to do a lot of that recently but sometimes there's little choice especially, as you said, when shipping is involved. Markertek called me once about an order for acoustic foam and they suggested I cancel the order -- the shipping was more than the cost of the foam! I managed to find a local supplier and that solved the problem.

I don't have a lathe but I can do short pieces, provided it can fit in the chuck of my drill press. I've done things like light stand stud adapters, fittings for fishing spears, etc. The drill press chuck can easily take a 5/8" diameter aluminum rod.

The idea of using electrical conduit sounds great. I'd probably use aluminum tubing just for the sake of weight. But depending on the type of aluminum, it could end up being costly. Also, I'm wondering if the added weight of the steel conduit might actually be an advantage for added wind resistance?

Dean,

I made one out of aluminum as well, the difference is 2 lbs 5 ¼ for the conduit and 3 ¼ for the aluminum tube.
If you will always be using stands for support I would go with the conduit, you can buy the parts, there is no bending and conduit connectors are inexpensive.
With the aluminum you need to make your own 90º bends and make your own connectors. I took the proper length of aluminum tube and put a 90º on one end.
(Yeah, I have the pipe benders too.) :-)

Now if you will be having someone had hold the frame then I would make the aluminum one.

Bill

I just realized that I have even more conduit around than I thought. If I can find the connectors locally, I am going to build one soon. I need to decide on fabric first. I want both the gauzy/net black and white. I'm considering going with synthetic mosquito net since I'm not so sure cotton bobbinet will survive the tropics. I can protect my camera from liquid sunshine, but a big piece of fabric is definitely going to get wet.

Doh! I just realized that I just got two of those clamp-on baby pins. Yep, they clamp to 3/4" conduit just fine. Tomorrow, I search for pre-made conduit bends. I have the bender, but it won't put the flare on the end for easy disassembly. I'm going to need some grip clamps, but I know where to get a pair cheaply.

I bought one of these kits from B&H some time back and I liked it so much, I bought another. I believe that "IMPACT" is the house brand of B&H and this is useful not only for reflection, but the base 42" diameter disc makes fine diffusion. In fact, I use it as such in lieu of of a 48" frame. One of the 'reflector' surfaces is black, which is handy, and the stand/boom is sturdy and reasonably compact. The best part about the kit though, is the price.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont....x=7&image.y=8

I have 32", 42" and 40"x60" collapsible reflectors with the holding arms. I have outlawed making crew hold reflectors. I am trying to eliminate as many of the unpleasant tasks needed for making independant no-budget shorts and holding reflectors is one of the worst. It is also better not to have a person hold the reflector since they can't hold it as stable as a stand. Also, it would be impossible to have a crewmember hold a 40x60" diffuser over the talent to cut down the sun.

I am interested in the rigid frame for larger shots and for a black gauze background to cut down backlight. I have a 35mm adapter, so I can keep the background out of focus enough that the gauze should never show. Backgrounds must be larger than the framed shot, so they need to be larger than a collapsible frame could accomodate.

I'm looking at polyester mosquito net for my black gauze. I will probably double it up for greater light reduction. I saw something interesting when looking at different netting products. There was an outdoor picture of a big collapsible netting tent. It is made much like the reflectors with a metal hoop around the perimeter that can be folded in on itself for storage. It was a 6x6x6' room for enclosing a patio area. What peaked my interest was the picture. The area of the sky behind the "room" was properly exposed, but the rest of the sky was blown out! :) So, two layers of mosquito net brings backlit sky into range. I don't think I will get the net "room" even though it looks nifty. I just don't see any way of properly supporting it in the shot.

Moire Patterns?
 

Should I be worried about moire patterns if I use more than one layer of black netting behind the talent? I don't want anything weird going on that will clue the audience into my lighting techniques/failures.

I have most of the parts necessary for the conduit frame. I am going to try to build it this weekend or early next week. I won't have fabric until later as I haven't finalized my choice. I think I'm down to either the hex-weave mesh used for breathable gear bags or mosquito netting. The mesh is heavier and probably easier to hang but the netting is smaller weave and more invisible.