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-   -   Where to get high frequency flourescent ballast? (DIY Home made Kino Flo question) (https://www.dvinfo.net/forum/photon-management/75353-where-get-high-frequency-flourescent-ballast-diy-home-made-kino-flo-question.html)

Joe Carney October 22nd, 2006 07:03 PM

For the GE Cinema Plus biax (2G11) 55w, you can get the 3200K with 90+CRI from B&H for 22.95 (They're listed as ARRI, but are made by GE).
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ist&sku=384528

Here is the link for the 56K ones..
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search

Ari Shomair November 11th, 2006 05:42 PM

I just thought I'd mention a neat versatile mounting mechanism I recently discovered, as that seems to have been the "weak link" in DIY Kino-like construction. It costs about $35, but could work very well. What you need to buy is

1 Avenger Gab Gobo - $23.99 from B&H

and

1 Avenger Baby Wall Plate - 3"- 11.95 from B&H.

Just mount the baby wall plate onto the back of a standard 2 or 4 bank fluorescent light (found for $20-$30 at Home Depot), throw in some High CRI bulbs (Another $10-$20), and use the Gab Gobo to mount to a light stand, and you're done! Total Cost for lights, not including stands, $50-$60.

You may want to pull the ballast out of the electronic light fixture and mount it externally if you don't have heavy duty light stands though.

Greg Stout February 17th, 2012 11:01 AM

Re: Where to get high frequency flourescent ballast? (DIY Home made Kino Flo question
 
Ok, well been reading up as much as possible.

Since I don\'t need flightworthy cases or anything and am only using personally, seems like I can just get cheap fixtures from Home Depot that already include a diffuser in case I want it, and install some reflectors if missing.

Really just looks mainly like I\'l have to replace the ballasts and then get some real kino tubes.

I\'m assuming it\'s probably easier to go the t8 route as they\'re very common, other manufacturers make similar bulbs, etc, so maybe less stress if i need to replace something?

Would welcome input though if there\'s a strong reason for going with t5 or something instead.

I checked into all the ballasts mentioned here, and they\'re all pretty easy to find. If I go with a workhorse ballast, there are several models, though, and want to make sure I\'m grabbing the right one.

I\'m no electrician, so thought I\'d give a brief description.


Basically, I don\'t want to use dimmers. I don\'t want to have to deal with shifting colors, so I\'d rather just have lots of on/off switches. Looking to do at least a 5 point system to light a large 8x15 foot wide greenscreen stage that comes out 12 feet. I\'m figuring each one of those 5 points should probably have at least 4 bulbs... but I\'ll be looking at some software tomorrow to help figure out total light needed.

Correct me if I\'m wrong, but I think if I\'ve read correctly that the load shifts or whatever if fewer bulbs are running on a ballast, which changes their ballast rating or power rating or whatever... so if I want things even with no weirdness, is it best to say run only 2 bulbs per, and just have a separate on/off for each 2 lights?

If so, I just want to make sure I\'m pairing up the exact right ballast for the lights. If I\'ve read correctly, workhorse 5 would be ideal for a pair of t5\'s right? Is it still the right choice for a pair of t8\'s... and/or should I be going t5 for some reason?

From what I\'ve read about the workhorse ballasts, they\'re "self adjusting"... does that mean they can\'t be "overdriven" like the kino ballasts? Other than total light output, is there a good reason to "overdrive" them? ... just want to make sure I get the right ballasts. They all seem pretty easy to get... and on ebay now, a number of people have a few of this one or that at a substantial savings even over the big box stores.
thx.


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