Gary, is this what you're using?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ayphotohosting

Just finished adding barndoors to my clamps

Note the ACDelco neck attachment is by bolt, not by friction knuckle...I've gone through 10 of the knuckle based lights, but still use the same 5 ACDelcos! Paint is high heat paint for grill interiors. Bulbs are CFL GE Softwhite bulbs. They have wattage equivs up to 250 tungsten watts.

Wow, good job. Just like the one I did ;-). So your bulbs are drawing 60 actual watts? That's a pretty big one. Didn't know there were GE ones that big yet.

Looks like you decided to use all rivets. I'll be interested to hear how that goes. I found that with the thin aluminum fixtures, its better to attach the hinges to the worklight with machine screws, nuts and lock washers. More secure. Also, looks like you decided not to add the compression spring and wing nut to one side of each hinge. Sometimes I found that the rivets (after much movement of the barndoors) become too loose and the upper and lower barndoors (which are subject to gravity more don't stay in place as well). Hence the reason for adding a machine screw, compression spring and lock washer on one side of the hinge and rivet on the other. Allows tightening up the movement should it get too loose.

If you have time, could you post those pictures in my forum under the user articles DIY section? See link below:

http://www.coollights.biz/forum/index.php?board=6.0

Yes Mark that's it. I put 5 100watt daylight (5500k) in one circuit and 4 100watt 3500k in the other circuit.
Gary

I don't have the screws because the hardware store was closed when I decided I wanted the screws...they're open now and pop rivets are both cheap and easy to remove...after one night, I've already got some play in one of my hinges, so I'm switching it over.

I'm also going to double check the wattage of the largest bulb I can get from GE...their website says 26, but I'm sure I found one bigger at target.

Fresnel Bulbs? Wattage?
 

Richard - I was rereading this thread and thought of a question I have wanted to ask you about your new endeavors. Above, you talk about a "150w fresnel..." and I was wondering what kind of a bulb you were indicating in that. Also, do you mean an actual 150 watts of a tungsten equivalent? Because, unless I have it wrong, you can get an Arri fresnel (tungsten, of course) at 150 watts for way less than $1000.

I, for one, am very eager to see your new developments. I am in a position to wait (a little) to make some lighting investments and your new product ideas sound especially attractive. Keep us posted.

Thanks.
TVH

Hi Terry,

One thing you can count on, I never quote a product equivalent wattage up front and I always state that its equivalent wattage when I talk about a higher one. The 150w is a ceramic metal halide 150w bulb/ballast in a fresnel fixture. With metal halide you have from 80 to 140 lumens per watt. I usually quote 3 times for equivalent with HMI or metal halide to be conservative so the 150w actual is almost a 500w tungsten equivalent.

In addition, its not really a "cool light" as such. I call it a "relatively cool light" and certainly way more energy efficient than tungsten (which there are plenty of other people supporting so I don't see why I need to jump on that wagon). It's energy efficient in lumens per watt but it still puts out a lot of heat so we still need a bit of aircon to displace it's heat. Why? UV is the reason. These bulbs emit a lot of UV. Anything that emits UV is a great heat generator. It's why we'll have some kind of UV protection on our glass of these fixtures. This technology is about the most energy efficient point light source we have at the moment besides the 60w MLED I'm also working on--but that's only 60w and I don't know when we'll see bigger.

So, less than $1000 for a tungsten wouldn't be any news at all--you're right. You can find $200 brand new tungsten fresnels and even less in some cases. I meant we will break sub-$1000 prices for an HMI generic equivalent--ceramic metal halide. I'm not sure I can promise hot restrike yet though for the 150 but hot restrike may be possible on the larger wattage pars I have planned (575w and 1200w). What does "generic equivalent" mean? It means that HMI is by no means a proprietary technology (just a trademark that's way overused by some fixture manufacturers) and there have been other competitors in the same technology family which is basically ceramic metal halide for quite some time now. I wrote a Part I article on this recently:

http://www.coollights.biz/wordpress/archives/31#more-31

I'm completing part II very soon. What I'm basically saying is that you can find other less expensive HMI equivalent parts (bulb and ballast) to do the same thing just like you can find generic drugs that are cheaper than the original name brand...

200 W Cfl 5500k Cri90
 

Not cheap but look at this beauty:

http://www.teksupply.com/webapp/wcs/...7C35054&isDoc=

or try this link:

http://tinyurl.com/2a4lnx

Yes, you can use that one in my softbox fixture, the CL-SFT1. It's one of the ones I recommend to use with it. The other one is pretty good too and is quite a bit less but it seems like its back ordered a lot.

http://www.servicelighting.com/catal...m?prod=MX35871