It worked!
 

Well, I must say, I was really happy with how the HC1 did after I played around a lot with the manual focus. I managed to blur the person in the background on the right, then got them back in focus and blurred the person in the foreground on the left of the shot. I didnt realise it would be that easy. I'm totally happy! I must say, this camera definately has its faults, and at times I have regretted getting it...but the more I use it, the happier I am that I got it!

Cool! Now experiment some and do rack focuses, etc.!

heath

I just did my first rack focus yesterday. A few tips if you don't have a 35mm adaptor. Open your iris (exposure) as wide as possible. Zoom in at least half-way, full zoom preferred (but that might be too close to compose the shot you want). Get physically closer to the foreground object. Your background object needs some distance from the foreground object, around 10 feet minimum (otherwise you can't achieve the small DOF). Make sure there is enough light all around so that your camera can focus.

Use spot focus (make sure the focus is on manual) to choose the area you want in focus. Use spot meter to properly expose the spot of your choosing. Then use shot transition and a tripod. Tripod is important to get a stable rack focus. Even the Spiderbrace is not good for this, because you are zoomed in so much. The rack focus will be subtle for sure, especially if you do a slow transition such as 4 seconds. You can play around with the transition curves too on the A1.

I love using the Z1/FX1's shot transitions to do more accurate shot transitions.

heath

What are some of the more acurate ways the Z1/FX1 can do shot transition over the A1?