Well so far (touch wood, and I have filmed nearly 20 events) I never had any dropped frames with my Z5. Ofcousre 90% of these were recorded in SD and most of them were also recorded on the MRC1 as well.

Stelios

Cf unit and tape the go
 

I have filmed about 40 hours now on the FX1000 via tape and had no dropped frames.

I certainly will be getting a CF unit soon though.

Anyone out there know how much a 32 gig card will cost? Approx.

Assuming 32 gig will give one around 150 minutes in SD.

How many minutes in HD?

As I have mentnioned in other posts I have a bad camera. My second camera doesn't have issues, only the first one.

Martin, Have a look a this post:

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/sony-hvr-...ash-cards.html

Whether you record in SD or HD the recording minutes are the same.

Stelios

Picasa Web Albums - Barron - Shed HDV-SD t...

The render settings in Vegas Pro 8.0c were MainConcept MPEG-2.
Template: DVD Architect 24p NTSC video stream

The camera settings were
Gamma: Cinematone1
Blk Comp: OFF
Knee: Low
Color mode: Cinematone1
Color level/phase/depth: 0
WB Shift : 0
Sharpness: 0 and -7 as noted on the pics
Skintone dtl: OFF

It still looks as though the in camera conversion has a *tad* more detail. There was more difference between the two methods in my first test when the sharpness was at +7.

Frame controls are key to quality
 

I'm finding that it is necessary to increase the quality using Frame Controls (the terminology in Apple's Compressor product) when doing the conversion from HDV to SD to make the SD DVD. This DRAMATICALLY increases the processing time, roughly 14 hours on an 8way system set up as a cluster.

Also you can get a 32Gb Ridata 233x card for $105 at supermediastore.com. They are working well for me.

Frame controls are key to quality
 

I'm finding that it is necessary to increase the quality using Frame Controls (the terminology in Apple's Compressor product) when doing the conversion from HDV to SD to make the SD DVD. This DRAMATICALLY increases the processing time, roughly 14 hours on an 8way system set up as a cluster.

Also you can get a 32Gb Ridata 233x card for $105 at supermediastore.com. They are working well for me.

Remember this?

Well, finally I did the test last night with some friends ( 8) that I have invited over and showed them a DVD mixed with scenes filmed in HDV and DV and marked those scenes in numbers, gave them a piece of paper with the numbers on the one side with two columns marked HDV and DV and all they had to do is to place an X next to the numbered scene if , to their judgement was filmed in HDV or DV. Guess what? I had 6 scenes, 3 HDV and 3 DV, I got the following:
Scene.... HDV... DV
1. HDV.... 3x... 5x
2. HDV.... 4x... 4x
3. DV..... 2x... 6x
4. HDV.... 5x... 3x
5. DV..... 6x... 2x
6. DV..... 4x... 4x

Explanation Note: If you take Scene No.1(shot in HDV) 3x=3 guys though that it was HDV and 5x=5 guys though it was DV

It seems from the above (for me at least) that the results are the same whether you shoot in HDV or DV and render to DVD.

Stelios

I found the same thing, no difference, at least no noticeable difference.

Stelios - well done - an interesting test and result.
What I'd like to see is the same test to find out whether downconverters make that much difference if you're watching a DVD into a big new 1080P TV.

OK, I know they do for test-chart zonies, but for real filmmakers?

1) Take an HDV camera and film in DV (i.e. downconvert between chips and tape).

2) Same camera but film in HDV and downconvert in the camera.

3) Same camera, downconvert the timeline.

I'm guessing the worst downconversion will give the best looking DVD if that disc is boosted by being played in an upscaling DVD player, say.

tom.

Well Tom someone else must do these tests now. I have done my part:-) Maybe you or Jeff. No more beers left in my fridge (for the moment)...lol

Stelios