I hear 'ya, Andrew. "A good carpenter never blames his tools for a poor job". I'm a firm believer in that. However, after having the camera for only two weeks, I had to send it back (last Friday) because of the paint coming off AND finding dirt and crap inside the lens. I could have continued using the camera despite the paint wear but the schmutz inside the lens was appearing on my images. It also had some CA and IR issues.

I've known guys who would always complain about not being able to do a job well until they could buy this or that attachment or lens. That's why I'm so frustrated with this camera at this point. I can see its' potential and I'm very excited to be using it.....if only I can keep it here with me for more than TWO WEEKS!

I've used the EX1 since January and I love it.

My background is shooting film, so I do shoot for the look I like, which is mostly 7248 color negative film.

I shoot using these settings:

24P
1/48th second shutter
-3db gain (with sufficient light)
picture profile adjusted to one of the cine settings
a warmer white balance than the default
a warming polarizer
a graduated filter for over-exposed skies
lens at a longer focal length (if I'm after less DOF)

I'm having a great time using the camera and I highly recommend it.

Good luck,

Steve

Sorry about the dust and schmutz and CA and IR woes, but thats all fixable; and in the long run you'll have a lot more good experiences with the camera. I can tell you this, my dead LCD and EVF are a distant memory.

As for chipping paint, I'm ok with that, kinda like Stevie Ray Vaughan's Fender Strat with years of good use. (but years, not weeks)

I just wish I had more time to get out and shoot.

@Mims - nice setup - seems you have your ideal and are going for it. Look forward to seeing some shots.

sound sound advice. very much what I do. have you got any clips to post anywhere? hOW DO YOU EXPOSE? mY BIG PROBLEM IS THAT i AM ALWAYS UNDEREXPOSING??????

Mike, that's hard to answer without seeing what you're doing, and knowing what you call under-exposure. Are you using the histogram and brightness reading?

I'd be curious to know what method most people here use to set their exposure. I've been using the Zebra 1 function but raised the default level from 70 to 95 or 98.

Changing the Zebra 1 setting from its default 70% to 9x % prevents you from using it as designed, i.e. to control proper exposure of (Caucasian) skin tones.

Therefore, I am using Zebra 2 at its only setting (100%), and just observe that it doesn't appear anywhere except for small areas of pure white objects (not the sky - it's never pure white, and should not generate the zebra) - unless properly exposing the foreground but backlit objects is my priority.

When it's people faces that are important, I engage Both zebras.

So far so good.

Thanks for that Piotr. This will be the first camera that I've had that provided two levels of Zebra. As soon as it gets back from Sony Service, I'll do as you suggest and utilize both levels.

Another important note:
Zebra 1 is +-10% of the level set.
Zebra 2 displays patter for the video level OVER 100%

Setting Zebra 1 to 100% is (+-10%) is not the same as using Zebra 2 (which is over only).

Setting Zebra 1 to 100 would be 90-110 range (109 max actually)
Zebra 2 is 100+ only.

That's assuming the manual and my interpretation of it is correct. See page 41.

Another way of looking at it. Zebra 1 set to 100 might kick in at 90 whereas Zebra 2 won't kick in until you hit 100.

Just to be clear also Zebra 2 is locked at 100 (not programable). Given the way the menu functions some people mistakenly believe Zebra 2 is programmable.

Absolutely correct, Craig! The Zebra 1 actually covering a range rather than threshold, I should have mentioned it in my opinion against using it instead of Zebra 2.

So leaving Zebra 1 at 70 is supposedly the best indication for properly exposed Caucasian skin tones (acc. to Piotr) and getting Zebra 2 stripes should only occur on the absolute brightest values (sun on chrome, water reflections,etc.)?

In general you don't want to burn out highlights, so Z2 stripes should be avoided if possible. The histogram is very useful for checking that you haven't burnt out portions of the image, and for ensuring a good range of tones. The camera provides several indications of exposure and it's just a matter of testing, being critical of your results, and adopting a technique that works for you.

Serena: My problem is not so much technical as my poor eyes and the very bright desert. As i said over at the "High Light" post I have not found a hooded setup that allows me to use the LCD and the viewfinder is poor so I'm having problems just seeing the Zebras so i think I'm being over cautious. Last Spring when it was not so bright I had no problem but now I'm blinded by the light.

Heres some EX1 film look :) Shot with Canon F-1, 85mm f1.2 L lens on Fuji 400 asa film

Z2 setting has its problems though. While zebras hit at 100, it is possible to push to 109 before blow out. 100 might be safe for "broadcast" but there are many circumstances where 109 zebra would be useful instead.

In short, you can hit Z2 and you might not be clipping yet (actually losing information in the highlights).