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Btw, I would interpret the terms "contrast" and "dynamic range" in this way:
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So by shadow-contrast you mean shadow gradation? If not, a graphic would be great ;-) Quote:
Really? Pretty much every EX1 has IR problems. Are you using a 80a or 80b filter or just bluing all your lights and avoiding tungsten all together? Maybe that could explain why IR wouldn’t affect your camera much as tungsten is most responsible for accentuating IR contamination? Quote:
To sum it up, what gamma do you think: Produces less noise? Records more dynamic range? Best for High contrast situations? Best for low light situations? Best for low contrast situations? |
from what I've seen, all the cine settings make compromises of some sort. If you want a RAW spectrum captured, that has as much data as this cam/cmos can capture, use a STD setting.(not std2). Then post process to get the best image possible. All the cine settings are compromises to make the monitor look good.
OK, I'm sure I'll get an argument, but, trust me....LOL |
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The auto-iris won't change because the gamma-curves get applied after exposure-measurement. Quote:
(These curves aren't measured but customly set up by my estimation/experience.) Quote:
I just checked it out again without filters and yes, there are some reddish colors even after white-balance. I guess I oversighted it becauce I was used to that tungsten has very warm colors. Quote:
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I don't like cine3 a lot, because it's got some built-in negative black stretch. Quote:
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Dominik, it has been an useful and interesting conversation. But I’m still confused with what you are trying to say, especially that you seem to be starting to contradict some of your earlier posts.
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And so you recommend Cine4 for high contrast but use Cine1? Quote:
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By the way, I found a post by you from another thread which I don’t understand either. :) Here it is: Quote:
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Interesting discussion. It seems Dominik (whose observations / opinions I share almost 100%), gives the term "contrast" a meaning I proposed, which was rejected by Michael :)
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STD gammas are producing some very strange white lines (halos?) in high contrast areas.
So I won't recommend using them. Dennis |
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-no highlight-information is gone -the average brightness is middle-gray -the main-subject in the picture is exposured well If you use the first, then it doesn't make a difference which (cine-)gamma-curve you choose. If you take the second, then it does matter. But because you can do all that gamma-stuff in post, you should concentrate on capturing most relevant information, which almost doesn't deppend on the (cine-)gamma. "Relevant" shall express, that capturing all highlight-information can be a bad idea, if your (darker) main-subject then vanishes in noise. Quote:
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Using more sensor-range allows to use more of the available light by increasing exposure. But increasing exposure won't increase sensor-noise, so the signal-to-noise-ratio increases. |
sorry, guys. got pulled into this discussion once before. not this time.
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I’m assuming the aperture was the same for all gammas right. Because to my eyes, Cine4 doesn’t really look as bright as std3 in those pictures. It seems just a bit darker than std3 in the shadows. At least less contrasty in the shadows, to try to speak in your terms :) Also, looking at your samples, I don’t see why Adam Wilt called cine3 “brighter cine” since cine3 seem to have darker shadows than cine1. Quote:
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But what you are saying is all cine gammas has the same amount of visible noise? : Quote:
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By the way, you totally bypassed my reply about gamma having an effect on low light and the F900R having a hypergamma preset for low light while you said it wasn’t related to gamma. Mind commenting on that? Dominik, although I think this is an useful discussion, let try to be objective rather than getting lost in technicalities which will probably just add more confusion as it’s clear there are some words getting lost in translation here. ;) The shorter way sometimes is the better one. Cheers. Mike I |
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Michael...
Lighting situations, especially outside, are wide and varied. You're right about knee and slope. Every situation requires custom tuning. Really can't provide a "one size fits all" for you. Setting up requires judicious use of the histogram and the zebra's. The non-linear nature of the way gamma is applied really demands that over-exposure be carefully controlled. I'd MUCH rather under-expose than over-expose. |
Ah, how easy was life when we still used old "chemical" film ;-)
Underexposed slide films (positive) and overexposed negative films. Sooo easy. I have now clue what to do with video. P. |
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