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Enlighten me on the shutter for the EX1
Can some one enlighten me on the shutter for the EX1.
I have just come from the Z1 and I always used this in manual everything. I shoot in Pal so my settings for the shutter would be 1/50 is this correct? And I assume that if the shutter is switched off the shutter is in automatic mode and changing exposure on me just like the Z1. But then I don’t see the shutter changing exposure on me, I need some more info an this if anyone has some. Simon |
shutter-off = 360°-shutter = shutter-speed of 1/framerate
shutter-on = manually set shutter Automatic shutter is used, if "full auto" is turned on (regardless of the shutter-on/off-switch). |
Ok have read heaps but I'm still none the wiser but this is what I think people are saying.
If I shoot in 25p shutter should be on and set to 1/50. If shutter is off I will get a I will get a lot of motion blur. 25p = 1/50 50p = 1/100 etc... If shutter is on and I set it to 1/50 I loose one stop of light which I can see. My next question is 50i what happens here? I cant find any info on this yet. Regards Simon |
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Shutter off = 360 degree shutter - in other words, the shutter is the same duration as the frame rate.
You need to do some tests. I rarely shoot at 1/50 because most of my subjects are moving and I hate blurred subjects (unless it's for effect). Grab your camera and shoot some test footage - see what suits you best. Forget the "rules" and be creative. |
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Of course, if you shoot interlaced, you have to calculate with fields per second. |
I have question about shutter too. On PAL mode when I select 1080/50i mode I can't select 1/50 shutter speed. Only 1/60 and next step is 1/100. The firmware is the newest.
So why on earth would I want to shoot 1/60 on PAL area since all the lights flicker according to 50Hz? |
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>>>So why on earth would I want to shoot 1/60 on PAL area since all the lights flicker according to 50Hz<<<<
That is a reasonable question and maybe the answer is that Sony didn't expect people to use a progressive camera in interlaced mode. Nevertheless, shutter 'off' does fix that problem. In terms of blurring at slow shutter speeds, Adam Wilt has mentioned that he prefers 'shutter off' at 24 fps because blurring gives the appearance of smoother motion. Stringing together frames without any motion blurring makes for jerky film, so test before making a choice. |
I just watched the Vortex Media training DVD and he says that you only use "Shutter Off" when shooting interlaced. For progressive shooting you double the frame rate to get your shutter speed. Makes sense when you think about it.
Obviously you can up the shutter speed to reduce motion blur in fast moving objects (you probably already knew that) |
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Sorry.....
If you're shooting 30p, set the shutter to 1/60 (double of 30) If you're shooting 24p, set the shutter to 1/48 (double of 24) etc... |
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Interesting. I need to watch the section of the video again....then do some testing.
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But anyway, to write something non-ambiguous: The generally recommended playback-rate - shutter-combinations are: 24fps - 180° 25fps - 180° 30fps - 180° 50fps - 360° 60fps - 360° |
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I'm still trying to figure out what setting to "Record" in, |
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I mentioned the playback-rate because of the possibility of over-/undercranking. The shutter-angle must depend only on the final playback-rate of the recorded pictures, not the recording-rate. Without a slomo- or timelapse-effect (and without droping frames) playback-rate=recording-rate. |
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So if my settings are 1080 x 25p and shutter is on @ 1/50 I lose 1 stop and less motion blur.
@ 1/100 lose 2 stops less motion blur. @ 1/250 lose about 3 stops and now way less motion blur on those pans. Am I on the right track? Otherwise just set the shutter to an angle of 180 and the camera sorts it's self out, is this correct? Simon |
for 25p use 1/50s (=180°)
for 50p/50i use 1/50s (=360°) if you shoot 50fps for playing back with 25fps (slow-motion) use 1/100s (= 180°) Again: shutter-angle = 360° x shutter-speed/framerate |
I set the frame rate to what suits the recording situation best. As has been suggested in this thread, carry out some test recordings when possible. Once you become accustomed to the shutter speed behaviour - and it can take a while - you start learning very quickly what suits.
Although there are a few shutter setting 'rules' (guides) for general recording, it does not work for all situations. You may want to have a 'sharp' look on motion so you need to adjust the shutter to a reasonable level. One popular effect for a car's wheels looking like they are standing still (or close to it) when following it along the road or track, is to adjust the shutter speed to a high level. I found that it takes practice and experimenting to find the best shutter speed for the job. Yes, one does lose a stop or 4, but pretty much most of my high level shutter speeds have been confined to the outside during the day, so I have not really had a problem with light levels. Sorry I cannot offer specific shutter speeds as they are all different. What I can say is that I have learnt a lot about the EX3 by experimenting with different settings. Some were very useful and others are for another time. I'm off to continue my experimenting with some detail levels in my Picture Profile settings. Best holiday wishes to all. |
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