How to remove the left and right cover on EX3
 

Anybody knows how to remove the left and right side covers of the EX3 camera? Due to a dissaster and no insurance I need to try to open the camera up, but I got stucked when trying to remove the left cover. I removed the three screws under the bottom plate, but cannot find the next step to unmount it. Has anyone done this before?

If the damage is so bad that you need to open up the camera, I would suggest biting the bullet and getting the camera fixed by a pro. It'll cost more but it'll get fixed. There's not a whole lot in there that's user-repairable unless it's a matter of just tightening screws.

What you have is a computer and a camera that's been merged. The electronics are proprietary and the mechanicals/optics are very precise. Attempting to do this yourself, without the necessary experience or proper documentation, may do more harm than good.

I have never tried removing either cover but if you do find out how to remove the left cover could you investigate whether it is possible to fit a better on/off switch? The fitted switch is too vague for my liking.

I'm still stuck at the same point. My guess is that there are more screws under the plastic cover that is stright under the handle, the cover with the buttons for transitions. My problem is that I don't know how to remove this plastic cover. It feels like a cover that just snaps on, but I'm not sure and I'm not brave enough to use much force on it until I know for sure how to remove it.

Regarding changing power button, I will look, but so far all the buttons I have seen are intergrated on circuit borads and that seems hard to replace with custom switches.

Regarding changing power button, I will look, but so far all the buttons I have seen are intergrated on circuit borads and that seems hard to replace with custom switches.

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It could be done by very carefully tinning the stripped end of three very thin insulated wires and tack soldering them to the three contact points on the PCB. You would then have to remove the slide switch on the camera. You would need a surface mount SPDT switch of high quality to solder the three leads to. You might be able to mount it where the old switch was, but you may also have to relocate it if there isn't even room behind that spot to attach fasteners for the new switch.

That switch is the dumbest thing I have ever seen since the old Volkswagen Beetle (Golf) that used the air in the spare tire to power the windshield washer so that when you got a flat tire and had to change it the spare was usually flat as well.

John

John, since you know how the powerswitch is working, you must have removed the left cover where the switch is. How did you do it?

The bottomplate first with the shoulder mount first.
To open the EX3 completely you must remove the (top)handle with the display too.
There are some additional screws under the handle that holds the side covers.
Becareful not to put much pressure. Besure to remove all screws on the top and the bottom.
Also don't forget to remove the 4 screws behind the battery in the battery compartment.
Check if you have to remove this first before taking the sides apart(Iam not sure)
Don't open the filtersection behind the lens(do not remove the coverplate).
If you have a spare camcorder, put it on a tripod while working on the EX3.
It will help you to reassembling the cam.
Good luck.

John, since you know how the powerswitch is working, you must have removed the left cover where the switch is. How did you do it?

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I didn't. I have seen other configurations that are similar. If the center of the switch is off and left and right activate something (in this case camera and media plaback)it is most likely a SPDT switch. Single Pole Double Throw. If it is contacting the PCB then the PCB is probably very close to the switch thereby not leaving much room between the cover and the PCB. Perhaps not enough even to mount a surface mount SPDT switch.

In terms of removing the covers, you would need the service manual to do that.

I usually download service manuals from here:

Service Manual free download,schematics,datasheets,eeprom bins,pcb,repair info for test equipment and electronics

But they do not have any for the EX series there.

John

Haven't stripped an EX3, but Sony is pretty consistent in their construction methods. I don't recall ever seeing any covers that simply snap on or off - there's almost always a series of screws that must be removed in the correct order, releasing one piece of the exterior shell at a time, thereby exposing MORE screws which must be taken out, sometimes they attach to the internal metal skeleton, there may be one of more that you need to locate to complete the removal - don't force anything, if you get stuck, back off, have a small flashlight handy and look for the spot where it seems to be "stuck" - there will probably be a screw nearby that may or may not look like it's "important", but IS.

One suggestion, before you get too far into it, get a small still camera and take LOTS of pictures, since you're working without a SM - take a shot of every screw and where it came out of... otherwise you'l likely have a few screws left over after surgery!

Sorry if this is a bit vague, but I've taken a few smaller Sonys down to the bones, just not anything quite as big or complex as the EX.

You didn't really say what the "disaster" was, more detailed info might help with further suggestions. SOME things CAN be "user serviced" if you are good with small fiddly micro-electronic stuff, but you may not be saving yourself OR your camera if you aren't, and some "disasters" simply aren't good "DIY" projects.

A tech in Holland who is a Sony savant has published stripdowns of other Sony cameras on a website as jpeg images and is apparently the go to guy in Europe for Sony repairs. The links will be buried fairly deep in the Sony PD150/VX2000 and Sony Z1/FX1 forums here on dvinfo.net. He may have one on the EX3.

Do you mean I need to completly remove the top handle from the body? I thought the handle was part of the "base structure" and can't see how to remove it from the body, have to take another look. Thanks for the info.

Where can I get hold of a service manual? If I google it I get several places that sells it, but are they for real and reliable? Any recomendations? I don't mind paying for it.

As for my disaster, it was partly dipped in salt water. Sometimes I can start it up and it works for a short time before going black again. So my thought was to open it up and see if I can "clean" it, to see if that will help. Since I don't have any insurance, I thought I might try this before leaving it for service. Ok, I know you guys think this is not a good idea, but this is my hobby.

I'm just afraid that after opening this camera up, you won't have a hobby anymore. There are so many parts and connections under the hood that if one doesn't really know what they are doing it could end up that the camera will never get put back together in working condition again.
I realize it is expensive to take it into an authorized dealer but wouldn't it be worth it? Of course after being dipped in salt water it might not make any difference anyway but I'd hate to hear you took it apart and then after putting it back together it doesn't work and then you're stuck with an expensive paper weight.
Good luck and let us know how it works out.

I understand your concerns about me opening it. I'm quite sure I won't break anything by opening it, but if I can't reassmble it I can always pay the service guy to put it together.

At least it works intermittently, that's a hopeful sign that it's something that might be repairable, probably a corroded connection somewhere. The challenge will be finding the actual failure point in a complex piece of gear - after of course getting the shell open! and if it happens to be "under" one of the complex myriad digital chips inside these things, you'll be looking at an expensive board replacement.

Just a couple more hints - as you get inside, you'll find things are tied together with flexible "boards" - thin ribbons with copper trails running trough them - you want to be careful with these, as they can break if twisted the wrong ways, and you also need to take the time to figure out which tyle of terminating connector is at the ends - some just press into the "socket" connector, others have a black piece which either presses down (vertical socket) or flips up (horizontal socket) to release the end of the "flexible board" (and you reverse the process when re-assembling once the board is back in the socket). The horizontal ones are delicate, you need to carefully lift up near both ends to release them - a couple tiny jewler's screwdrivers can work if you're careful.

There is a guy who sells service manuals on eBay that I think is out of the Netherlands IIRC, don't know if he has the EX3 manual, but I've bought a few service manuals from him (download) for old Sony still cams (and he lists most other Sony cams along the way), pretty cheap. You can buy from Sony, but it'll cost ya... I've collected SM's from most of the small cameras along the way when I stumble onto them, but don't have any of the "big camera" SM's... or I'd probably be of more help with getting it down to bones.

Keep at it, be patient, the first time tearing down a camera isn't easy, but it can be educational, perhaps even fun if you like repairing stuff. Just be aware that you could also "brick" a very expensive piece of equipment if you aren't careful, and in some cameras (if they have a still "flash") there is a high voltage risk...

Dipped in salt water?

Take it from someone who works around salt water all the time: Don't waste time messing with it on your own. Get it to a Sony service center immediately.

Destructive corrosion isn't going to wait for you to figure out this puzzle. It'll steadily eat away at any metal it touches until it gets thoroughly cleaned off.

Even stainless steel isn't exempt from this kind of damage.

Get it properly cared for before it's too late.

I agree with Dean's "dipped in salt water" comments and add a couple more.

Firstly salt water is a good conductor and therefore parts of circuits could be shorted out and thus cause malfunctions and secondly if battery power is applied metal components will be subjected to electrolysis.

First aid should be to remove all batteries as soon as possible. Removing salt and corrosion will be very difficult even with good access..

I have some photographs of hte stripped EX3.
I will try to post them.

I have now managed to take the side covers off, thanks to the guiding tip from John that I had to remove the handle. I have also spent many hours cleaning with isopropyl alcohol and hundreds of q-tips. On a few of ICs i found salt crystals/corrosion between legs, I cleaned them off, some still shows marks of corrosion but at least they don't have contact with each other. I have not removed the CBs in the middle of the camera, much more work (and harder to reassemble) and they seem clean except on some edges which I can reach without removing them. The camera was under water for only a few seconds and the interior has not been floded with salt water, there are several spots here and there, but no large area with lots of crystals/corrosion.

The hardest part for me to take apart is the white flat connectors with separate wires for each pin. The plastic is very delicate and easly damaged with plyer or tweezer so I have left most of them unopened. This is also what's keeping me from opening the camera more, I'm afraid to break those connectors.

Anyway, thanks to all of you who shared constructive advice on how to proceed with the dissamble. If you have more advice let me know.

It sounds to me that you want to look into what insurance coverage you have.

If you have a commercial package like we do. You can probably have the camera pronounced "more expensive to fix than replacement". And get a new camera for just the deductible. I have had several claims like this myself over the years, and my agent has been very helpful.

Home owner/renter insurance here in the states at least will also pay for damaged gear.

I would call your agent. Usually all you need is a tech person to write a DOA note for you and they pay up.

The problem with saltwater dunking is it will keep corroding and causing more problems as time goes on.

Here is a little secret that us repair shops use.. https://servicesplus.us.sony.biz/sony-parts.aspx

We always buy the service manual, but if we don't have it then that site comes in real handy. You can view exploded diagrams of the camera from many different angles. Just search "PMWEX3" and then look for the exploded diagrams. I always recommend having a pro fix your camera of course, there is always a strong chances that you could make it worse.

Hi Martin,
"The hardest part for me to take apart is the white flat connectors with separate wires for each pin. The plastic is very delicate and easly damaged with plyer or tweezer so I have left most of them unopened. This is also what's keeping me from opening the camera more, I'm afraid to break those connectors."

Yeah, be very careful with these connectors. Search on the net how to remove them or use a magnifying glass to look at the locks at the ends. If you examen it closely, it is just that easy to remove, but always be careful not to break it.

Good luck!

If your dealing with salt, alcohol will not help, it will merely spread it around. You must neutralise the highly corrosive alkaline salt with a mild acid such as dilute vinegar or better still a commercial product such as salt-x or salt away. If you don't the corrosion will continue aided by the electrical current passing through the circuits.

I used to shoot the world windsurfing tour and sea spray would always find a way onto kit ending in fluffy white corrosion on any exposed aluminium and rapid rusting of steel. Keeping the cameras wiped down with 10-1 water/white vinegar or salt-x prevent most of this.

Need to read your homeowner's policy carefully. Expensive video equipment will normally not be covered unless the item is added as an "endorsement" or "scheduled" as a specific item to be covered. It costs extra for this type of coverage.

Regarding insurance, read my initial post. I have no insurance to cover this period (don't you think I have checked that?).

Alistair, I was recomened to use pure alcohol when doing this by a engineer, but your advise seems valid. Can the vinegar cause harm to the electrical components if wiped on the circuit boards?

Andy, thanks for the link tip to sony service.

Marten,
Sorry you took exception to my insurance comment. It was meant for others since I know you did not have insurance. I checked with a friend of mine who is an electrical engineer at a hydroelectric plant. He advises using isophryl alcohol 90% or higher to clean circuit boards. Lower content may contain harmful contaminates. Do not use acetone as it can melt some plastics. He also validated using diluted white vinegar follwed by the alcohol.
As a side note I dunked a camera in freshwater about a 2 months ago so I feel your pain. Fortunately I only had to replace the lens ($1,700) . Although it was still in warranty, water damage and accidental damage is understandably a warranty exception. Ironically, I sent it to Panasonic for another small warranty repair about 2 weeks later and the service tech thought the lens motor sounded a little noisy so they replace the lens again but for free.

Mark, sorry for being hard on insurance comments. My reply was meant to those coments suggesting to use my insurance. English is not my main language and I may have misunderstod things.

Anyway, when you guys talk about vinegar what is that? Here in Sweden we have "vinäger" and "ättika". "Vinäger" is made from wine and "ättika" is made from ethanol. "Ättika" is more pure in my understanding can be called acetum or acetic acid and it comes in 12% or 24% concentration. So is your vinegar the same as our "ättika"? If so, what concentration should I use for cleaning electronic komponents?

Vinager is "Edikk" in Norwegian... does that help?

I have now reassembled the camera. And it's almost working! I haven't tested everything yet but there is one major thing, the backup battery circuit board. The annoying thing about the backup battery not working is that the "command dial" on the left is not working to change for example shutter speed. I assume this is the same behaviour when there is little room left on the memory card, at least that's what remember. The "command dial" works when I enter the menu system with the menu button. Could someone confirm the behaviour when the backup battery is removed?

The circuit board that is failing consists of one battery holder, one resistor and one four pin connector. Can you guess what Sony charges for the replacement? $577! It's unbelivable for me.

I have only been running it for two hours so I don't count on it to be fixed. There are other issues as well, but it's more usable than it was before :-)

I'll get back with more info later.

I can only add my voice to those who have already said that propanol will not remove salt!
Distilled water would be much better and keep cleaning with it until ALL the salt is removed. If you don't humidity or condensation will cause it to migrate.
Once you have all the salt removed then use ethanol or propanol to dry the assemby out.
The clock battery PCB assembly sounds very basic and fixable by anyone with a fine tipped soldering iron.

Marten -
Sounds like you hit those "white flat connectors" - those were the ones I warned about <wink>. The flat ones where the cables goes in parallel to the main circuit board are delicate, but here's the trick - the "lock" is onthe far ends of the connector, so you have to flip up the black section - take two very small jewelers screwdrivers, slip one under one end and get it started, then get the other one and work from the other end - the black part should spring right up, releasing the flex cable - the reassemble, push the flex cable back in as far as you can, then use something where you can gently push the entire length of the black retaining clip slowly back towards teh closed position - it will again spring into place...

Hope that helps with those nasty connectors - the vertical ones are easier, you just have to pull up on the ends of the black retaining section.

There is some chance that the board that isn't functioning fully just has one or more flexable boards not fully seated - you have to be careful with those flex cables, as they can be tugged partially out of the sockets - even the white ones with the black retainer clip - odds are pretty good that that's why you've got a non-functional board. The good thing is typically it doesn't harm anything if you accidently don't get a board connected, reconnection should fix it.

fascinating story!!! I'm rooting for the underdog!!! Go Marten!!! It seems you are truly licking the salt from the biscuit of life.

p.s. vinegar in french is vinaigre