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May 12th, 2006, 04:31 AM
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#151 |
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Major Player
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 508
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The reason I want a filter as protection different from a lens cap is because I want to film in dusty/dirty conditions such as out at sea.
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May 12th, 2006, 09:54 AM
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#152 | |
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Major Player
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Europe
Posts: 844
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Quote:
Either way it'll be visible so keep the front of your WA lens very clean. Manual focus would indeed fix it, but that's a bit of a pain to be constantly adjusting manual focus. Just keep all lens surfaces clean, and if you're shooting in low-ish bright sunlight, use your other hand to shield the front of the lens from the sun. You should easily be able to see on the LCD screen when you need to do this. |
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May 12th, 2006, 12:39 PM
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#153 |
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Major Player
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 993
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I have decided to opt for 37mm filters as they, as confirmed by Stu, show no vignetting in video mode (only a little in photo mode). Furthermore, it makes the set up cheaper and above all, lower in weight/size. A matt box or something would make it far less portable. The HDR-HC1 is a learning camera for me which I intend to use for learning purposes to get familiar with cinematography, editing and thinking about visual motion. I am addicted to getting everything, which I figured is not needed. With some filters and a good day/field bag and some cleaning materials, I am ready for my vacation as well as the documentary about my grandmother. The polariser is a certainity, as well as the ND filter. I am only not sure if I go for the 4x, or for the 2x, 4x and 8x ND filter. Not sure if it makes much difference. BH recommended me the 4x filter, which seems logical to me.
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May 12th, 2006, 01:17 PM
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#154 |
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Inner Circle
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Billericay, England UK
Posts: 4,711
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The 4x ND will soak 2 stops and is probably the most useful to have. Your HC1 has an automatic internal ND to stop the lens shooting at apertures smaller than f/8, so if it's bright that internal filter could well do with some help in the form of the 4x you'll screw up front. Of course you can stack filters but it's not recommended.
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May 12th, 2006, 02:04 PM
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#155 |
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Major Player
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 993
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I have one other question. The circular polariser can be turned around for a different effect. If it is attached to the Sony Y lens, how do I turn it around? I do not completely understand how this mechanism will work.
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May 12th, 2006, 02:15 PM
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#156 |
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Inner Circle
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Billericay, England UK
Posts: 4,711
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The polariser will take some getting used to. It'll soak 1.5 stops and it's polarising effects are determined by where you stand in relation to the sun and where the filter is rotated to on your camera. It's a bit of suck-it-and-see, but the good thing is our v'finders are wysiwyg devices working at taking aperture, so you do get some indication of what the filter is doing for you.
tom. |
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May 12th, 2006, 02:22 PM
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#157 | |
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Major Player
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 993
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Quote:
I have on more question. If I manually set the shutter speed to 1/30 of a second, the camera cannot control the light with the shutter anymore, but only by changing the iris, or in dark situations, increase gain. In a place with lots of sun, like italy, it seems logical to me that I do need the 8x ND filter as well, as the 1/30 shutter speed is pretty low. I remember that with my DSLR, in bright sunlight, 1/1000 - 1/2000 is a common shutter speed. That's 6 or 7 stops of sunlight from the 1/30 I might use. |
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May 12th, 2006, 02:33 PM
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#158 |
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Inner Circle
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Billericay, England UK
Posts: 4,711
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Why are you shooting at 1/30th sec? You're NTSC, right? Shoot at 1/60th unless you're after some special effect. You'll get better quality footage.
Your camera has an inbuilt ND that will soak 3 stops. The aperture blades close to f/4 as it gets brighter, then they stay at f/4 as it gets even brighter, the internal ND pretending that the lens is going to f/5.6, then f/8 then f/11. If it gets brighter still, the aperture starts to close again, going to f.5.6 (equal to f/16) then f/8 (its smallest actual aperture, equal to f/22). It's for this reason that I believe an ND4 will be all that you require. Alternatively you could up the shutter speed to 1/125th sec and not bother with external ND. Have fun in Italy. I've been to Venice three times and you just can't stop shooting, believe me. tom. |
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May 12th, 2006, 04:06 PM
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#159 | |
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Major Player
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Europe
Posts: 844
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Quote:
But don't overtighten the pol filter - its quite easy for it to go on TOO tight and then a real PITA to get off. I know - i´ve sliced skin off my fingers trying to get a too-tight filter off before. If you can - buy a 37mm filter-wrench before you go. It´s simple and effective. Try B&H or a good photo store as cheapNcrappy stores won´t have a clue what you´re talking about ! If you can´t get a 37mm filter wrench i recommend a thickish rubber band round the pol filter before you attach Y lens. Helps get it off if it´s stubborn. Max. polarization is when you are shooting about 90degrees to the sun´s rays. i.e. sun is approx. left or right of you. When sun is directly in front or directly behind there´s little pol effect. But you just shoot any angle you want - it´s not an exact science at all. Rotate the filter slowly and look at LCD and you should see the effect vary. Don´t forget to take the filter off after day shoots - if you´re doing evening / twilight filming there´s no pol effect and all it´s doing is absorbing 1.5stops of light which is not good (especially with A1!) So remember to take it off when sun´s gone. Also there´ll be very little to no effect at all or a cloudy day. Try it out on surface of water (eg a boat trip). It can give good reduction in reflections, making water look deeper /darker / nicer. Recommend you use all this new gear before you depart. - you want to concentrate on the subject when you're there, not trying to figure out new equipment. |
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May 16th, 2006, 10:56 AM
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#160 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 30
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Hey Laurence, or anybody.
I have an A1 and have been trying different matte boxes and sun shades; including the LH77, all of which I am not satisfied with. Century optics looks like they have a nice sun shade, but I can't find the correct step down ring. Could you please tell me which adapter ring to use with this century sun shade ? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...=274303&is=REG Thanks, Lou |
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May 17th, 2006, 02:09 AM
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#161 | |
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Major Player
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 993
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Quote:
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May 17th, 2006, 02:11 AM
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#162 | |
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Major Player
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 993
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Quote:
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May 17th, 2006, 08:07 AM
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#163 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 30
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I tried a chrosziel 4x4 matte box with 104mm opening. However, 77mm of the Sony WA seems to be and odd size to step down. I could not find the proper adapter, plus this matte box is over kill. I also trie a Century optics sun shade, 4x4, Model #FH4400. I can get this sunshade to fit with 2 rubberbands, but that seems too Mickey Mouse, plus the position and the size of the filter opening seems to be to small for the lens. I like the shape of the LH77 because the sunshade flares open immediaterly as it leaves the lens, thereby decreasing the chance of any vignetting. What I didn't like is that it has 1 set screw to hold it on rather than a CLAMP. Because the sunshade is made of rubber, the set screw distorts the the sunshade when you tighten it. On a tripod, it works fine, but I think if you were shooting on a windy day, it would fall off. It's just not heavy duty enough for me.
Now the Century optic sunshade #DSFA8200, looks like the LH77, but it is made of metal. It also has a CLAMP. So, I will put this question out again- Does anyone know where I can get an adapter ring that fits this sunshade to match the 77mm WA? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...=274303&is=REG |
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May 17th, 2006, 12:10 PM
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#164 | |
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Major Player
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Lou, the answer you're looking for is on the FIRST PAGE of this thread. Lawrence used that very same sunshade (the Century Optics DSFA8200) and this item: 7) Stepdown ring from www.cavision.com Ask for the one to step down from their LH80 M/P lens hood to a Sony VCL-HG0737Y wide angle lens. The Cavision LH80 M/P also has an internal diameter of 80mm. I'd suggest calling them and asking for what Lawrence posted. 2Ē |
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May 17th, 2006, 12:24 PM
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#165 |
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Regular Crew
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Vista, California
Posts: 25
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Only slightly less Mickey Mouse
Lou,
I have/had the same problem with fitting the Cent. Opt. 8200 sunshade to the A1U/Sony 737Y lens. It was originally purchase for my VX2100 and a Cent Optics wide angle which it fits perfectly on. I have been following this thread all along hoping for a solution for the A1U and this sunshade. I searched myself and was unable to find a step down ring anywhere but am not convinced one doesn't exist. I noticed that the sunshade fit on the Sony 737Y lens if the lens cap was on so I called Sony and ordered an extra lens cap. I believe it was right around $30 shipped. When I got it I cut out the center so that just the part that fits on the outside of the lense was left. Slip that on the lens and then the sun shade onto that and I have a stable fit. I don't know that this is a reasonable solution if you have not purchased anything yet but for me, already having the sunshade it made sense. |
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