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Old May 17th, 2007, 11:29 AM   #46
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This thread is a dream come true for me, thanks Charles. I'll be shooting a feature with the HV20 and the Merlin next month.
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Old May 25th, 2007, 05:12 PM   #47
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Does "Z" represent Gimbal turns?
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Old May 25th, 2007, 05:23 PM   #48
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Quote:
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Does "Z" represent Gimbal turns?
Never mind, got it.
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Old May 26th, 2007, 11:15 AM   #49
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Charles: am I correct in thinking there was some side-to-side motion that shouldn't be there? Especially in the beginning? Also a bit of horizon rotation. I assume all of this is due to you being new to this stabilizer?
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Old May 26th, 2007, 11:22 AM   #50
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Pretty much. As I said when I posted.

I have a suspicion that the gimbal on my Merlin is a bit dodgy, so I'm going to replace it with the metal one when it comes out. Never liked the plastic gimbals anyway.
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Old May 26th, 2007, 11:27 AM   #51
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Cool, just wanted to check if I was seeing what I thought I was seeing :)
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Old May 26th, 2007, 01:06 PM   #52
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For anyone who might be interested, here are the settings I've settled on for the HV20 and Merlin, using the stock BP-L13 battery:

Front weight: 1 finish
Lower weight: 1 start, 1 finish
Arc size: 10 1/4", measured from top of stage to hole
Mounting hole: N
Stage mark: +2
Z: -4
G-platz: no

When WD-H43 is added:
Add 1 mid weight to lower spar
Stage mark: 0
Z: -4/5
G-platz: yes

- Using the N mounting hole will not block the battery release, and is closer to the center of gravity than the J hole.
- Use one layer of gaffer tape between camera and plate so plate does not deform.
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Old May 27th, 2007, 12:47 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Shima View Post
For anyone who might be interested, here are the settings I've settled on for the HV20 and Merlin, using the stock BP-L13 battery:

Front weight: 1 finish
Lower weight: 1 start, 1 finish
Arc size: 10 1/4", measured from top of stage to hole
Mounting hole: N
Stage mark: +2
Z: -4
G-platz: no

When WD-H43 is added:
Add 1 mid weight to lower spar
Stage mark: 0
Z: -4/5
G-platz: yes

- Using the N mounting hole will not block the battery release, and is closer to the center of gravity than the J hole.
- Use one layer of gaffer tape between camera and plate so plate does not deform.
The N hole is a great tip, thanks. I was a bit bugged about having to take off the plate every time I wanted to change the battery.
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Old May 27th, 2007, 06:22 PM   #54
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Just wanted to give everyone a tip. I added a quick release Bogen mount to the rig and now I can change the battery and the center of gravity is lowered on the top side which gives the rig much better handling.

The bogen item I used is here:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...arch&Q=*&bhs=t

Have fun.

-Jonathan
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Old June 6th, 2007, 10:01 PM   #55
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Jonathon, do you have cookbook settings for that QR plate. Or the QR plate and HD wide angle lens? Thanks.
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Old June 7th, 2007, 12:21 PM   #56
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Probably the benefits of adding weight are what makes the rig with the Bogen quick release handle better more than lowering the CG of the overall camera mass--that camera is pretty squat to begin with. But it is always a good plan to keep the camera CG as low as possible, yes.

I think I posted in another thread that it is always possible to remove the battery regardless of mounting hole if you use a tool like a nail file or letter opener to slide in under the battery to access the release button. Probably Tiffen should sell something like this as an accessory but it would cost too much!
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Old June 21st, 2007, 01:23 PM   #57
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Charles,

Thanks for the info. That makes sense. The added weight it the key but as you point out the lower CG seems to be a good thing. Thanks for the tip regarding the battery.

Matt,

I don't have a cookbook setting but if you learn what each control does you can easily dial it in. I think I have two weights on the bottom (with the bogen mount) and then just started adjusting the arm. Fine tune with the gimbal adjustment. Not really a need for cookbooks in my opinion, and I haven't been using it for long...

You just want to slow the swing to a minium without introducing to much uncontrolled float (tiping off to the side.) Slightly more bottom weight when in windy conditions which makes it rock slightly but that's the trade-off.

Correct me if there is more to it than this...
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Old July 23rd, 2007, 08:14 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Gentry View Post
Just wanted to give everyone a tip. I added a quick release Bogen mount to the rig and now I can change the battery and the center of gravity is lowered on the top side which gives the rig much better handling.

The bogen item I used is here:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...arch&Q=*&bhs=t

Have fun.

-Jonathan
Jonathan,

Do you have a picture of the Bogen+camera+Merlin? I don't understand how you attached it. Do you use the whole Bogen assembly and forego the dovetailplate supplied with the Merlin?

Thanks,

Wolf
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Old July 23rd, 2007, 10:58 AM   #59
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Nice clip Charles. Looks really smooth. Even though itís just a shot around the house makes it look pretty expensive doesnít it? Steadicam magic!
I was wondering if a stabilizer shot would trigger the rolling shutter skew problems on the HV20. I guess it doesnít seem to be much of an issue. Did you see any of that in the footage you shot? I seem to see some mild jumps in the clip but I was wondering if itís just the compression, my computer or any other thing.
I have a ďGlidecam 4000Ē and I wonder if it would be too heavy for the HV20. What do you think? Iím thinking I will have to add some weight to the HV20.
Iím thinking of buying a HV20 so I shall see.
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Old July 23rd, 2007, 12:08 PM   #60
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I'd think you'd want to add some weight up top, but then again you could always try it with a minimum (or no!) weights on the GC itself and then add weights until it balances top-to-bottom.
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