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Wayne |
Planning on getting a 12 foot Loon (Dat's one big honker of a boid!) this week if something else doesn't break on the car - unexpectedly needed a new muffler yesterday :( I'll post a review when able.
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I use a ambient 4140, I prefer to have a longer pole (16 footish) because I find I need that extra reach. You can always make the pole shorter but not longer. So for your 1st pole go longer, then get a shorty later.
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So I am looking at getting a K-Tek KE110CCR. I would get a carbon fiber model, but budgetary reasons prevent it. Are any other peripherals I should get besides cables? I was told they make adapters you plug into mixers so that you connect cables to the adaptor instead of the mixer, thereby preventing wear on the mixer, but I don't know what they are called. Also, a guy I talked with mentioned I purchase I sort of short, cloth jacketed xlr cable that connects to the mic, and then has the normal xlr cable attach to it. Supposed to lessen handling noise or something.
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This?
http://www.ktekbooms.com/products.php?id=53 Adds seven inches and doubles as a handgrip. Personally, I've never needed a handgrip, so I'm a little dubious about that. Just seems like extra weight to me, but I've never used (or seen) one, so take that for whatever it's worth. I think the idea of the second section of cable is to prevent any vibration noise coming from downstream on the cable. Never felt that it was needed (and I have that same pole you're looking at, except for the side adress), but who knows what I've been missing. Anybody ever use one of these things? Biggest handling noise issues I deal with are at the shockmount. I've actually banged that pole (aluminum and all) on the inside of a doorway and had the editor not even notice. I did, but still pretty impressive for a budget pole like that. |
That wasn't it, no. Hmm. Thanks for trying to find it though. I know my description was vague.
Anyone heard of Digiflex cable? That is what they sell at Lorne Lapham in Vancouver, the place I am thinking of getting my boom from. |
Hi Spencer,
I really wouldn't worry too much about connector wear & tear on your MixPre. I've had one for 5 years and it's built like a tank. You can always provide strain relief by hooking a carabiner or velcro loop to your mixer bag and suspending any excess cable through that. Having said that, I generally use a 7' coiled jumper cable from my boompole to my mixer--less chance of getting tangled up in dangling cable. Here's one from Remote Audio, but plenty of other companies make them as well: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...LR_Jumper.html Again, I definitely recommend an ENG breakaway cable for the mixer to camera connection for the reasons mentioned in my previous post on this thread. Remote Audio, PSC and Canare all make good ones that run about $200-$225 US. Yrs, Hoi |
What exactly is an eng breakaway cable?
So I should get a coiled jumper cable, a longer xlr to attach to that and the mixer, then an eng breakaway cable to run from the mixer to the cam? |
You need the breakaway cable most of all.
http://www.trewaudio.com/store/produ...&cat=13&page=1 Don't skimp either. Get the 25' extension too: http://www.trewaudio.com/store/produ...&cat=13&page=1 Worth every penny. I promise you. |
Hi Spencer,
Marco's definitely pointed you to the right breakaway cable for your MixPre. If you look at the photo, the end with 3 connectors goes into your mixer--1 XLR left channel out, 1 XLR right channel out, 3.5mm stereo male mini plug to the tape return jack. The 4 connector end goes to your camera--1 XLR L, 1 XLR R, 3.5mm stereo-M plug to the headphone jack to send a return signal to the mixer and the 3.5mm stereo-F jack so that the camera op can still monitor audio as well. About 3' from the camera end there's a quick-release connector (visible at the bottom of the photo) that allows the camera op to quickly disconnect so that he/she can change camera positions, etc. with minimum fuss. Much easier than running 2 separate XLRs and an unshielded headphone cable! Plus as Marco points out, it's really easy to add extensions if needed. Caveats about using the camera headphone jack for confidence monitoring: A) Make sure that the headphone jack volume is actually turned up enough to send a return signal--some shooters I've worked with get lazy about audio monitoring when working with an sound recordist and actually leave the headphone volume all the way down unless reminded otherwise. B) On many cameras, the headphone jack is pre-record, which means you at least know that the audio signal is reaching the camera, but it still doesn't tell you what the final recorded audio sounds like. As for how everything hooks up, here's what I usually do when I'm booming and mixing: Short shotgun mic-->boompole w/internal XLR cable-->coiled 7' jumper cable-->mixer-->breakaway cable-->camera No need for anything between the boom pole and the mixer in this scenario but the coiled XLR jumper.... Yrs, Hoi |
I have been told that internally cabled booms, especially when made of aluminum, can have more handling noise, so I may get one that is externally cabled. What is the sound-chain like for an externally cabled boom? Mic>coiled jumper>mixer?
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It's possible to get a rattle if you handle the pole roughly, but in practice it's a non-issue. I've never had a blown take over it. Some people prefer externally cabled poles, but they can be way more difficult to manage. Depends on your style I guess.
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Marco, I ordered those cables from Trew...to avoid having to look elsewhere. Thanks for saving me time. I ordered a K-Tek KE 110 and a twenty five foot XLR from Lorne Lapham. Thanks guys. I wouldn't have made a purchase this quickly without your advice. I would be flying blind without this forum, given my lack of technical gusto. Haha.
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I've had an interesting relationship with boom poles. Built my own painters pole boom.... relativelycheap, but subject to handling noise greater than whatI expected. used a non internally wired Gitzo carbon fibre... love at first sight. Bought a Gitzo internally wired aluminum pole on E-bay relatively cheaply.....discovered that: a) aluminum poles are not as bad as my painters pole experience might have suggested. b) Gitzo makes a quality pole it seems. c) internally wired poles are more convenient and frankly the allegations of increased noise from internally wired poles are not being born out on my use. Not sure if this helps, hope so.
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Hey guys, I've just purchased (well offered to purchase, let's hope the seller hasnt sold yet) a used K-tek 110CCR. I was in debate between this and the Rode boompole and felt the price difference between the new Rode Boompole and the price I Was getting the K-tek for was not large enough to justify getting the "better" K-tek.
The seller was the same person who I bought my XH-A1 from last week. Prior to owning this XH-A1, I had been using a Sony HC1 for a couple of years. Now, I'm looking forward to getting more serious about video production. I plan to mainly recording stand-up comedy around the DC area but also would like to get started on some short film projects. I hope the boom pole will be a good addition to what I personally have (the two cameras mentioned, a Sony MZ-RH1 Hi-MD Minidisc recorder, and an AT-822) plus what others who work with me will have. A lot of posts in here in regards to the K-tek caught my eye: Quote:
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Sorry for the newbie questions. Like I said, I'm pretty new to this so any advice would be appreciated. |
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