AA Batteries

[John Hartney]

No, it is an old thread that's been brought back to life by someones need for information.

Your word choice had some humor in it, imho.

Main Entry:regurgitate
Pronunciation:(*)r*-*g*r-j*-*t*t
Function:verb
Inflected Form:-tated ; -tating
Etymology:Medieval Latin regurgitatus, past participle of regurgitare, from Latin re- + Late Latin gurgitare to engulf, from Latin gurgit-, gurges whirlpool more at VORACIOUS
Date:1653

intransitive senses : to become thrown or poured back
transitive senses : to throw or pour back or out from or as if from a cavity *regurgitate food* *memorized facts to regurgitate on the exam*


You're input to board users here and on the other sites you haunt, is always welcome and well informed.

Sometimes you have to feed info in small amounts to be understood, especially to newbies, hence the mother/baby bird metaphor.

[Johan Bollen]

Talking about reviving an old thread. ‘AA batteries’ seems like an appropriate title for a post I would like to make. Maybe it’s a little bit silly but something that happened yesterday got me worried about possible damage to equipment by AA batteries (or my use of them). I wanted to use rechargeable batteries (GP 2100 series NiMH AA 1.2V) with my SD 302 mixer, but the batteries where to wide and got stuck in the battery tube of the mixer, so I stripped them of their plastic jacket to get them in. Then I noticed that after 30 seconds or so the tube got very hot, and the batteries also. The battery light of the mixer was flashing although the batteries were recently charged and pushing the BATT button didn’t give me any reading. I didn’t give my time to check if the mixer was working properly. I got the batteries out quickly. After that I put in some disposable batteries in the mixer and everything seemed normal. I haven’t used the rechargeable batteries on delicate equipment since, but I put them in a flashlight and they seem to work well. I’ve used these batteries (with their cover) on other equipment before and never had any problem. They worked and they fitted.

Is the tube on the 302 maybe to narrow? Is there a compatibility problem. The 302 manual states AA batteries can be used. Maybe stripping the batteries causes some kind of short circuit… Any explanations? I’m puzzled.

Johan

[Abe Dolinger]

I'm interested to hear back on both of these issues . . I'd like to move to rechargeables for environmental reasons as well.

Doug, the G2 has done well for me in a bunch of places in NYC so far (where the original EW112 has failed) so I'm pretty happy with mine. Let us know how your test goes. (Also, the word you wanted might have been resuscitated, e.g. to bring back to life . .sorry, English enthusiast!)

[Daniel Epstein]

I use external power from an Np-1 and hawkswood adapter to power both my mixer and wireless receivers. The cost to gear up that way is fairly high but it a very nice solution and long term the payback is pretty good. For transmitters I still tend to use alkalines or Lithiums.

[Ben Winter]

Originally Posted by Troy Tiscareno

Not only can you use NiMH AA rechargables with the G2, Sennheiser even has recargable battery packs available for them (but why go proprietary?).

We aren't talking about NiCads here, which are obsolete. NiMH rechargables actually are capable of holding MORE power and sending MORE current than alkalines are. The only place I'd advise using something else is in extreme cold weather, where you're better off with lithium batteries that aren't as affected by it as either alkalines or NiMH.

Definitely get AT LEAST 1800 mAh batteries minimum. I believe the current top batteries are 2300 mAh, but it could be even higher now, as it seems to go up every few months.

I ran a pair of 2000 mAh batteries in my G2 lav transmitter for 6 straight hours and still had plenty of juice left (batt indicator was still full, and the batteries went into my cordless mouse, which ran for a week off the remaining charge).

Things change, DSE.

-Troy

I have a pair of 2500mAh AA's sitting here in front of me. Also, NiMH produce SMALLER current per cell, AA's for instance are 1.2v instead of its 1.5v alkaline brothers, which can introduce some issues in certain components.

[Roger Shore]

One element that didn't exist when the thread was started, but might now make a difference to the comments --- http://www.eneloop.info/
In theory at least, a possible answer to the dilemma of disposable v. rechargeables?

[Jon Goodman]

"NEVER use rechargeables in a wireless system.
Go to Costco or Sams Club and buy the huge packages of 50 AA's. Cheap, and well worth it.
Some wireless systems won't warrant their gear if you use rechargeables."

I bought some 9v rechargeable NiCads to use with a lectro system I recently purchased. Am I wrong in using them? Will they damage them in some way?

Jon Goodman

[Eric Shepherd]

NiCad batteries don't have the long-lasting power of Alkalines, Lithiums or NiMH batteries.

You may be alright with them, depending on the drain of the device and how long you're running it. Some wireless devices I've worked with will run for hours and hours and barely use any battery power, while others, in the same show, will require swapping batteries after every performance. (All using brand new batteries).

I use the green rechargeable Energizer AA's with my Sennheiser G2's. I wanted to charge/drain the batteries down a few times before putting them into service, to get the full life out of them (according to the manual). So I put a pair in my transmitter and a pair in my receiver and turned them on overnight. They were running I believe it was 11 hours before I finally had enough and put them into a flashlight. :) I used the same 4 AA's in a fluorescent flashlight. It ran I think about 12 hours and didn't appear any dimmer than when I started. I think the batteries were down to 1.2 volts or something when I took them out.

For what it's worth, I've tested the voltages on many brand new alkaline 9V batteries, and Duracell consistently has a higher voltage, usually around 10.4 volts. Energizer is usually around 10 Volts, and the other brands, Ray-o-Vac, etc, are generally lower.

Hope this helps,
Eric

[Chris Medico]

Originally Posted by Johan Bollen

Talking about reviving an old thread. ‘AA batteries’ seems like an appropriate title for a post I would like to make. Maybe it’s a little bit silly but something that happened yesterday got me worried about possible damage to equipment by AA batteries (or my use of them). I wanted to use rechargeable batteries (GP 2100 series NiMH AA 1.2V) with my SD 302 mixer, but the batteries where to wide and got stuck in the battery tube of the mixer, so I stripped them of their plastic jacket to get them in. Then I noticed that after 30 seconds or so the tube got very hot, and the batteries also. The battery light of the mixer was flashing although the batteries were recently charged and pushing the BATT button didn’t give me any reading. I didn’t give my time to check if the mixer was working properly. I got the batteries out quickly. After that I put in some disposable batteries in the mixer and everything seemed normal. I haven’t used the rechargeable batteries on delicate equipment since, but I put them in a flashlight and they seem to work well. I’ve used these batteries (with their cover) on other equipment before and never had any problem. They worked and they fitted.

Is the tube on the 302 maybe to narrow? Is there a compatibility problem. The 302 manual states AA batteries can be used. Maybe stripping the batteries causes some kind of short circuit… Any explanations? I’m puzzled.

Johan

Hi Johan,

It is likely that the battery tube has a piece of metal running down it that is one of the conductors. When you took the shrink wrap off the batteries and put them in the tube it caused a short.

The lucky thing is you got them out before they went into thermal run-away. That would have destroyed the device they were in.

Some AA NiMH batts are slightly larger than the standard. They push the edge a little to gain some extra room for the higher capacity. I recommend you take some base measurements using batteries you know fit well and comparing it to what you can find online from other battery manufacturers.

I've considered using rechargeables in my wireless setup. So far the aggravation of trying to charge 10 AA batts at the same time on the road doesn't sound too appealing.

Also, NiMH batts have a very low internal resistance which is good for supplying current when needed but very bad for internally loosing charge. What this means is to get the actual stated capacity of the battery you have to use them right out of the charger. NiMH batts can loose 20% of their capacity in a couple of days sitting out of the charger and on the way to your shoot.

Chris

[Steve House]

Originally Posted by Johan Bollen

...I wanted to use rechargeable batteries (GP 2100 series NiMH AA 1.2V) with my SD 302 mixer, but the batteries where to wide and got stuck in the battery tube of the mixer, ...

Is the tube on the 302 maybe to narrow? Is there a compatibility problem. The 302 manual states AA batteries can be used. Maybe stripping the batteries causes some kind of short circuit… Any explanations? I’m puzzled.

Johan

Check the Sound Devices website - I seem to recall that they were having problems with stuck batteries in the tube due to it being slightly undersized and were offering to fit a replacement tube at no charge.

[Raymond Toussaint]

Nimh batteries work fine in a G2 set, I use 2300mh , keep the same set in the loader and in the receiver /transmitter. So use batteries in pairs, mark them for that. Never had any problem doing so, use fresh loaded AA's (trickle-charge mode) the day before you use them. You can charge in your car too.
Environment is important enough.

[Eric Shepherd]

Why same pairs? They should all get a full charge and be back to normal when recharged.

What's a loader? Or do you mean a charger?

The Energizer setup I have is nice. It was $30 at Costco and came with 6 AA's, 2 AAA's, a charger with an AC plug and a 12V lighter plug. Charges in 15 mins on either power. So you could get to a job with say 8 batteries fully charged and when the first 4 run down, swap them with the others, and charge all 4 back up in 15 mins. Then replace them 6 hours later when the others go dead finally. :)

[Raymond Toussaint]

loader = charger (my bad)
I'll keep the batteries together -thats why I marked them- to prevent to mix up half charged and full batteries while changing sets in a car or in the dark. So I always charge and keep them together.

[Eric Shepherd]

Ahh i got you. So not from a performance standpoint, but an organization standpoint. :)

Though I suppose you could do the same thing with 2 containers labeled 100% and 'to be charged', and then not have to keep track of individual batteries. But then you'd know if some start dropping in performance which ones they are.

[Johan Bollen]

The lucky thing is you got them out before they went into thermal run-away. That would have destroyed the device they were in.

Isn't it amazing that such professional equipment can be destroyed by such a silly thing? I didn't know the plastic on the batteries acomplished some function other than informative. There should be a big message on batteries "DANGER: don't take wrap off" or something like that. Don't you think?

Check the Sound Devices website - I seem to recall that they were having problems with stuck batteries in the tube due to it being slightly undersized

I wrote sounddevices because I could't find the information you are refering to. I'm waiting for an answer? I don't like to change the battery compartment if there would be a simpler solution. Maybe I just had bad luck with extra thick batteries. Being somewhat isolated in La Paz I have to order by mail, so I need to know which rechargeable batteries will work before I order. I hope sounddevices can give me a list of models of AA batteries that do work with their equipment. Apparently it is not all AA batteries as their manual pretends.

Johan