You can't classify all static screens as being like the Nikon D. I tried one, and the Nikon D is great for $30, but there are better static solutions, as we've seen from others around here.

Oh, I'm not saying there aren't, I'm just saying that in general, vibrating adapters will reduce grain at greater apertures more than static adapters will.

What would happen if you kept the iris BIG and used a further ND filter?

Just a thought . .Grazie

Graham,
I beleive this to work, but I think its best to keep the SLR aperture open, and adjusting the exposure of the image with the camcorders aperture.

Wayne.

I agree, it's best to do your "darkening" [i]after/i] the screen, i.e. with camcorder's internal ND filter or iris.

Actually I was referring to if someone wanted to deepen the DOF using aperture control. But, of course, we're all in this for shallow DOF, so why not...

Yup.

One reason to use these devices that is totally aside from depth of field is simply lens options. The DVX for example is quoted at being 4.5-45mm focal length, supposedly translating to 32.5-325mm in SLR equivalent. I don't have a 32.5mm SLR lens to try on my adapter but I do have a 28mm and it offers about the same angle of view as the DVX with no adapter. When I've used SLR lenses shorter than 28mm with my shallow-DOF adapter, it has given me the ability to capture wider angles of view than my camera could with its original lens.

You could always use an add-on wide angle adapter lens like the Raynox, Century Optics, etc., though I never have, so I don't know how the optics of a single element add-on lens compare to a nice wide angle SLR lens. I would assume the SLR is far better since the camera manufacturers have to use several elements to get a nice image. Still, from what I have seen, the add-ons seem to work.

Would it be possible to sandwhich the Nikon D focusing screen between two 52mm UV filters for protection from dust and easier installation? I was planning on just using some regular 2" tubing, not threaded like the ones listed. Also, what macro steppings would work? I currently have a +1, +2, and +4, would a stack or one of these work? Or will I have to get a much higher macro like +7-10? Basically, what's the minimum macro that works with this?

It completely depends on your camera and its ability to focus on things up close. A +4 macro that works for you on one adapter will probably work on another adapter provided the ground glass is the same distance away from the lens.

Yes, the ground glass can be sandwiched between UV filters.

If you need a +7 +10 macro, I have one for sale, let me know. Less glass is always better when you stack +1 +2 +4 you have three pieces where with +7 you have one, but that is something that you have to decide.

Oh good, sandwhiching the Nikon D screen should save me a TON of trouble, I was going to go with the wax route and that looked pretty iffy to me. I've got a GL1 and all the guides seem to be using different macros, some use just a +3, others use +7, and then most common is a +10 macro, I figure you'd need to zoom in anyway so why haul out for a big macro like that? BTW, I'm building my adapter with stepping rings so I can use it on my GL1 now and use it with a future 72mm camera when I upgrade to HD.

One thing about the sandwhiching thing, the Nikon D screen won't be jingling around between the two filters will it? I don't know how small the screen is.

Just a note: the more you zoom in, the higher power the macro you need.

You'll have to glue in the screen. It's a rectangular-sized thing that, if placed in the ring of a 52mm UV filter, will barely touch at the corners.

hi!

can any of you guys please tell me how do you manage to keep the focusing screen clean?
I keep cleaning it but i still get little dirt sitting on it!!

thanks in advance

Use compressed air to completely blast out all the tiny particles, then seal the deal and only open the ends sparingly.

thank you Ben.