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Old February 7th, 2006, 11:31 AM   #1
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Focus and Out of Focus, what about total Focus?

Hello Guys,
I am trying to find out how to make my XL2 just be in focus with sharp images just like when you are trying to make an object out of focus?.
Usually we try to make the background of an object out of focus or vise versa, but how can I make both the background and the object be on focus?
Is there a special type of lens that is needed to achieve this?
I use Nikon lenses with the M2 adapter and the distance to achieve a clear focus with the background on focus too is usually not that great.
For example if you are shooting someone, you will notice that if the person takes a step forward, they will be either out of focus or on-focus, so my question is, how can you make the person on focus througout a certain area just like a regular camcorder. I noticed that you really can not focus on a moving object when using an adapter or will I have to be adjusting the focus ring manually on the Nikon lens all the time?
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Old February 7th, 2006, 11:40 AM   #2
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Hello again Eniola,

To achieve a larger depth of Field, with or without adapter (best without) is to keep fully wide on the zoom and close down the camcorders aperture (or SLR aperture if using an adapter).

This will loose you some light, though.
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Old February 7th, 2006, 12:45 PM   #3
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Wayne,
One really can not zoom out because you don't want all the frames inside the adapter to show in your footage.
So there's no sort of lens or technique to make this to work apart from not using the adapter?
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Old February 7th, 2006, 12:52 PM   #4
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you need to close down your aperture to achieve deep focus - you'll probably need to add some light though
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Old February 7th, 2006, 12:55 PM   #5
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Yes,
Sorry, i meant go fully wide if not using an adapter.

If using an adapter, use a wide lens (28mm or wider) and close down the aperture. You will ofcourse need more light.
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Old February 7th, 2006, 01:03 PM   #6
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If you have a 35mm adapter, you could look into a split-focus Diopter. It makes foreground and background in focus, but there is a hazy area inbetween them. Used in "The Andromeda Strain" and "Final Destination 3"
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Old February 7th, 2006, 01:16 PM   #7
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Eniola, if you want deep depth of field...simple. Just remove the adapter. If you stop down your prime lens to get shallow depth of field you will have to add 1000's of watts of light to get proper exposure. It's far better to just remove it and let the cam do what it's good at....very deep DOF.

I've never used a film camera, but here's my understanding. Moving subjects are captured with manual focus lenses in the film world by using a focus puller (person whose job is focus only), generally using a follow focus unit geared to the prime lens focus ring. The focus units can be marked (or set with hard stops) to allow the focus puller to match focus at points in the camera movement.

In the adapter world you can deal with this by yourself but it takes practice and shot rehearsal. Your Nikon has focus marks on it already which you can use. The procedure is something like this, say to capture someone walking towards you. At the start of the shot, have the subject stand there while you determine correct focus. Note the focus mark alignment on your lens. Do this again for end of your camera/subject move. If you practice the entire move, you should be able to keep your subject focussed through the movement. You will have to use the Nikon's focus marks to guage focus whilst framing your shot, while operating your tripod....

It's this change in workflow that will be the hardest for adapter users to adjust to.
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Old February 16th, 2006, 05:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Wood
In the adapter world you can deal with this by yourself but it takes practice and shot rehearsal. Your Nikon has focus marks on it already which you can use. The procedure is something like this, say to capture someone walking towards you. At the start of the shot, have the subject stand there while you determine correct focus. Note the focus mark alignment on your lens. Do this again for end of your camera/subject move. If you practice the entire move, you should be able to keep your subject focussed through the movement. You will have to use the Nikon's focus marks to guage focus whilst framing your shot, while operating your tripod....

It's this change in workflow that will be the hardest for adapter users to adjust to.
ENG/EFP guys have to contend with this on a regular basis. It's not an easy skill to master, but the more you do it, the better you get at it. Granted, it's going to be harder again with 35mm DOF (although it's still no picnic with 2/3" CCDs), but with some practice you can pull some nice focus follows, even off the fly...
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