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Old February 19th, 2006, 10:45 PM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 260
~$53.00 static 35mm adapter

I finally got my adapter working. Big thanks to everyone that helped! I thought i would give back and share how i did it. This is a static adapter that anyone can build.

1. First thing you want to do is order a Nikon F3 Type D screen. Try googles product search, thats how i found mine. $30
2. Go to Surplus Shed and grab the "RECTANGULAR DCX LENS, CTD" condenser $3 + $5 shipping http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l1584.html
3. While your waiting on that go to walmart and pick up some quick drying super glue and a box of toothpicks. ~$2.00?
4. Go to Home Depot or equivalent and grab a 2" PVC pipe connector. I'm not sure what its called exactly but its used to connect two pvc pipes together. $0.80
5. Finally you will need a rear lens cap and a ring to mount the adapter to your camera. i used a 52mm step up ring which fit nicely on the pvc pipe connector. $12.00

Total: ~$53.00


1. paint the pvc interior black, you should also probably consider painting the exterior something too.
2. Slide the focus screen carefully into the pvc till you reach the barrier in the middle. It should fit very well, and should not need any glue. Only touch the plastic edges. Make sure the ground glass faces the barrier located at the center of the pvc.
3. The condenser is too small so use the super glue to glue two toothpicks to both the flat sides of the condenser. be very careful not to get any glue onto the front or rear optic! Once the toothpicks are firmly attached to the lens, place it on top of the pvc suspended by the toothpicks. Mark the toothpicks where it meets the edges of the pvc and use some pliers or just break them there. Then carefully slide the condenser into the pvc connector on the opposite side of the focus screen. Move it till you meet the barrier. Your almost done.
4. Glue the 52mm step up ring to the focus screen side of the pvc.
5. Take the rear lens cap and drill a hole in it so when you mount the lens the optics are not obstructed.
6. Now insert the rear lens cap into the pvc connector. It should be a very solid grip. Once you find a good distance between your slr and ground glass by adjusting the lens cap, you can glue it in place.

slr -> condenser -> focus screen ||) -> camera

Comes together simple as LEGO

Cleaning dust off the lenses can be a pain. Use pliers to grab onto one of the toothpicks to pull out the condenser. Then you can carefully push out the Nikon focus screen.

I am not to be held responsible for any damages or injuries. The instructions I provided are general, so use common sense to fill in the blanks.

Possible problems:

I used a Minolta lens with a Minolta lens cap. Your lens cap size may vary and some may not fit into the pvc connector.

With GS150 I had to zoom in to 2x to fill the frame and did not need a macro. If you loose focus when you zoom into the gg, you will need a macro lens.
Daniel Lipats is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 19th, 2006, 10:59 PM   #2
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 48
Good job bringing that price down. I am glad the Nikon D screen worked for you because in my setup it gave me a horrible hotspot. You got any footage or grabs with your setup...?
Dmitriy Uchakin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 19th, 2006, 11:14 PM   #3
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 260
I can post some footage but its no different then the results everyone else is getting with the F3 focus screens. By no means is this a perfect solution. You will have a slight grain from the ground glass unless you find a way to vibrate it.

At first I had the same hot spot problem, check it out here:

If you try that condenser it should fix it. I tried 4 other condensers i had laying around none helped till i ordered that one.

I am ordering another condenser so i will have
slr -> condenser -> focus screen -> condenser -> camera

It should give even better results.


Here is a picture of the adapter itself:
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