anamorphic with dvx100 and letus? at DVinfo.net

XiaoSu Han · September 19th, 2006, 02:08 PM

hi
is there a chance that a dvx100 with an anamorphic adapter (la7200 in this case) will work with the letus35 adapter?

thanks in advance for any experiences

Bob Hart · September 19th, 2006, 09:41 PM

Han.

I have done it with a PD150, Century Optics 16:9 anamorphic lens, home made adaptor to mate the 16:9 lens and the 55mm focal length Micro-Nikkor and a home-made AGUS35.

You will find some notes at the following files on this website.

www.dvinfo.net/media.hart

Will land you at an index list of files.

Look for these filenames.

agus3516.pdf
agus3516b.pdf
agus35in16.9+somefilmlook.JPG

Work from the index. Don't try to cut and paste these filenames.

The pdfs are a build method description and illustrations.

The JPG file is two frame grabs which were shot through the adaptor, 16:9 lens, Micro-Nikkor, in standard 4:3 then squeezed in AE5, then colour graded with the filmlook process which is published on this site to an approximate cinealta grade.

As well as the 55mm Micro-Nikkor, I have offered the 16:9 anamorphic lens up to an 85mm and 135mm. 85mm is okay but the image via the 135mm falls apart.

Provided you remain within the focal length range the Century lens was designed for, you should be okay. You may get corner cropping or vignette in wider lenses of course, depending on the area of image you are aquiring off the GG. In this case the image area was then about 22mm x16mm.

For a small range of lenses, the effort is worth it, but if you build up a larger array of lenses, especially wides or if you go for closer to the 36mm x 24m still-image frame off the groundglass, then you will have problems.

You will notice an optical artifact when focusing the SLR lens. There will be a vertical stretch on one side of the sharp plane and a horizontal stretch on the other.

Because the PD150 model of the Century 16:9 is most often a bayonet mount (I think 58mm is available) the adaptation is complex.

If yours is threaded for 72mm filter mount then things are so much easier. Simple stepdowns from 72mm to whatever filter sizes your SLR prime lenses use will get you where you want to be. The 72mm is going to cause less problem with the wide lenses. Ultrawides are not likely to work.

Good luck.

Frank Hool · September 20th, 2006, 01:13 AM

Bob i'll post Your link again(corrected): http://www.dvinfo.net/media/hart/

Bob Hart · September 20th, 2006, 07:00 AM

Frank.

Thank you for correcting the link. One of these days I will go back to school and learn how to spell web addresses properly.

Bob Hart · September 20th, 2006, 11:11 AM

Han.

I forgot one important detail.

This arrangement will only work for lens bodies which do not turn the entire front end when focus is adjusted.

If the front of the lens body moves so does you 16:9 adaptor which makes it impossible to use during a focus pull and requires resetting the 16:9 lens for each shot. - Very tiresome.

Most 50mm lenses are fixed. The new generation motorised lenses are also fixed. Some older or third party lenses have a moving front end especially the longer ones like 135mm or longer such as Tamron Adaptamatics.

XiaoSu Han · September 24th, 2006, 04:53 AM

uh, very troublesome for a few pixels

thanks very much for the rundown tho :)

Bob Hart · September 24th, 2006, 06:51 AM

Han.

In your case, probably a lot less trouble than you think. If you already have the bayonet mount version, it is a bit harder but not impossible. If you have or can get the 72mm thread mount version, then a bunch of step down rings is all you need as long as they are the flush face type, not the ones which make the lens stick out furthur with each ring you add to stack them.

With the vertical stretch you get all your pixels but more importantly, over the electronic form of 16:9 your resolution off the groundglass is preserved more and that is good to hang onto if you can.

September 19th, 2006, 02:08 PM	#1
XiaoSu Han Regular Crew Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Vienna Posts: 26	anamorphic with dvx100 and letus? hi is there a chance that a dvx100 with an anamorphic adapter (la7200 in this case) will work with the letus35 adapter? thanks in advance for any experiences

September 19th, 2006, 09:41 PM	#2
Bob Hart Inner Circle Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: PERTH. W.A. AUSTRALIA. Posts: 4,476	Han. I have done it with a PD150, Century Optics 16:9 anamorphic lens, home made adaptor to mate the 16:9 lens and the 55mm focal length Micro-Nikkor and a home-made AGUS35. You will find some notes at the following files on this website. www.dvinfo.net/media.hart Will land you at an index list of files. Look for these filenames. agus3516.pdf agus3516b.pdf agus35in16.9+somefilmlook.JPG Work from the index. Don't try to cut and paste these filenames. The pdfs are a build method description and illustrations. The JPG file is two frame grabs which were shot through the adaptor, 16:9 lens, Micro-Nikkor, in standard 4:3 then squeezed in AE5, then colour graded with the filmlook process which is published on this site to an approximate cinealta grade. As well as the 55mm Micro-Nikkor, I have offered the 16:9 anamorphic lens up to an 85mm and 135mm. 85mm is okay but the image via the 135mm falls apart. Provided you remain within the focal length range the Century lens was designed for, you should be okay. You may get corner cropping or vignette in wider lenses of course, depending on the area of image you are aquiring off the GG. In this case the image area was then about 22mm x16mm. For a small range of lenses, the effort is worth it, but if you build up a larger array of lenses, especially wides or if you go for closer to the 36mm x 24m still-image frame off the groundglass, then you will have problems. You will notice an optical artifact when focusing the SLR lens. There will be a vertical stretch on one side of the sharp plane and a horizontal stretch on the other. Because the PD150 model of the Century 16:9 is most often a bayonet mount (I think 58mm is available) the adaptation is complex. If yours is threaded for 72mm filter mount then things are so much easier. Simple stepdowns from 72mm to whatever filter sizes your SLR prime lenses use will get you where you want to be. The 72mm is going to cause less problem with the wide lenses. Ultrawides are not likely to work. Good luck. Last edited by Bob Hart; September 19th, 2006 at 11:19 PM.

September 20th, 2006, 01:13 AM	#3
Frank Hool Major Player Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Barca Spain Posts: 384	Bob i'll post Your link again(corrected): http://www.dvinfo.net/media/hart/

September 20th, 2006, 07:00 AM	#4
Bob Hart Inner Circle Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: PERTH. W.A. AUSTRALIA. Posts: 4,476	Frank. Thank you for correcting the link. One of these days I will go back to school and learn how to spell web addresses properly.

September 20th, 2006, 11:11 AM	#5
Bob Hart Inner Circle Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: PERTH. W.A. AUSTRALIA. Posts: 4,476	Han. I forgot one important detail. This arrangement will only work for lens bodies which do not turn the entire front end when focus is adjusted. If the front of the lens body moves so does you 16:9 adaptor which makes it impossible to use during a focus pull and requires resetting the 16:9 lens for each shot. - Very tiresome. Most 50mm lenses are fixed. The new generation motorised lenses are also fixed. Some older or third party lenses have a moving front end especially the longer ones like 135mm or longer such as Tamron Adaptamatics.

September 24th, 2006, 04:53 AM	#6
XiaoSu Han Regular Crew Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Vienna Posts: 26	uh, very troublesome for a few pixels thanks very much for the rundown tho :)

September 24th, 2006, 06:51 AM	#7
Bob Hart Inner Circle Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: PERTH. W.A. AUSTRALIA. Posts: 4,476	Han. In your case, probably a lot less trouble than you think. If you already have the bayonet mount version, it is a bit harder but not impossible. If you have or can get the 72mm thread mount version, then a bunch of step down rings is all you need as long as they are the flush face type, not the ones which make the lens stick out furthur with each ring you add to stack them. With the vertical stretch you get all your pixels but more importantly, over the electronic form of 16:9 your resolution off the groundglass is preserved more and that is good to hang onto if you can.