I would be interested in hearing of user experiences of using the EX3 for wildlife. Pros and cons.

Thanks

Andy

Hi
I do not have that much experience with that camera yet but I think it make great pictures that mach my panasonic HVX 2100 camera well - special the overcrank funktion makes it possible to make great movies of flying birds.
Right now I use a standard 2/3" lens on an adapter and it does not make quite sharp HD pictures when the extender is used. I just orderd the ex3 to nikon converter - hope this will work great. How I should make a suport for my bigger Nikon and sigma tele lenses I do not know - hope this will come to work.

Hi Bo....any chance of some sample footage ? I'm interested in the cams performance too!?

Here is a link to some quick slo mo and fast motion I did with this camera almost 2 months ago (just with the stock lense so far). Very pleased with it's performance - the Vimeo Flash encoding does not really do it justice but it might be of interest for you.

Ely in August HD (Sony EX3 Timelapse) - The Digital Video Information Network (http://www.dvinfo.net//conf/showthread.php?t=134233)

There was a discussion on the Sony Cinealta forum concerning the "jello" look on fast pans because of the rolling shutter. Has anyone experienced this?

I recently shot some video with a prime lens attached. Tried it out as well with just the standard lens attached.

Overall, besides the lens, it seems very similar to EX1 in terms of the quality of video. It obviously can interchange lenses and has a lot more inputs/outputs.

Nice camera, but I really did feel like it was simply a nice upgrade to the EX1.

What was your assessment of the quality of pans? Did you see the "jello" look caused by the rolling shutter?

I have not noticed yet - guess I just use the camera in ways that do not make it visible :
http://ms1.tvmidtvest.dk/natur/video/Rovterne.wmv
This was the only chance I got to make the dive of this bird - it is not optimal but it give an idear of what you can use the camera for.

Bo,

This is the exact footage I was wanting to see, very fine.


I am very curious what your frames per second and exposures were to get this.

could you give us the technical information on the shot please.

Curiously what would a canon/nikon adapter for the lenses cost??

I used 720 25p overcranked to 60 fps - some say its only 50 fps when in 25p, but the framerate can be dialed from 25 p to 60 p.
I have learned one thing since I made this shot - the camera can very easy blow out in the white so you have to set the gamma knee manually - a level at 85 - 90 and a slope of maybe 50. You can find more discussion about that on ex1-3 side of this forum. It is a great camera to film birds flying - shots you could not use before is suddenly steady and long enough to be used because of the superslow it can produce.
Just paid £358.38 GBP for a EX3-nikon converter inclusive delivery from mike tapa - it should arrive today or tommorow - i'll let you know how it works. On the bigger cameras I use a Canon 11x33 SD lens and it is okay in HD when the extender is not used - it will be very interesting for me to se if a Nikon/Sigma tele lens can do the job better at a much lower price. The use of the Nikon macro lenses is also a grest thing. The adapter will make a 5x magnification so I can hardly wait to get it.

I agree with Dale that's it's the sort of footage you want to see as it's a white/contrasty bird, lots of movement/panning, wings flapping (nicely done too).BUT I would caution anyone against making any decisions based on web viewing!
Steve

Just got the EX3-Nikon adapter and i must say that this is a new world opening to me. I have used ENG broadcast lenses for years and they are absolutely the best when you have to zoom-focus and turn iris at the same time. But if you can live with a full manual lens where focussing is the other way on the lensbody then I must say that my Nikon and Sigma lenses produce very crispy and colourfull pictures in HD. My nikon 200mm macro lens is almost a microscope and the 120-300mm 2,8 Sigma lens does the job better than the 10 times more expensive 11x33 Canon broadcast lens.
Now I just have to buy a lens support because the stativ mount on the camera can hardly hold the camera itself.
Yes you cannot choose the Sony EX3 because of a film on the web - the movies it can produce is far way better than can be shown in a streaming video.
----Bo

Bo, with regard to lens supports, don't assume that you have to buy off-the-shelf. It's perfectly possible (and often better) to get a machine shop to make a plate for you, they're quite simple.
Steve

Bo,

I'll be receiving Mike Tapa's adapter in the next day or so. I'm planning on using some long Nikon teles--300 f/4 and 500 f/4. I'm still researching a proper tripod mount system for all this. Wondering if I need to start with the Sony plate or look for something else.

Steve Harryman

Just got the EX3-Nikon adapter and i must say that this is a new world opening to me. I have used ENG broadcast lenses for years and they are absolutely the best when you have to zoom-focus and turn iris at the same time. But if you can live with a full manual lens where focussing is the other way on the lensbody then I must say that my Nikon and Sigma lenses produce very crispy and colourfull pictures in HD. My nikon 200mm macro lens is almost a microscope and the 120-300mm 2,8 Sigma lens does the job better than the 10 times more expensive 11x33 Canon broadcast lens.
Now I just have to buy a lens support because the stativ mount on the camera can hardly hold the camera itself.
Yes you cannot choose the Sony EX3 because of a film on the web - the movies it can produce is far way better than can be shown in a streaming video.
----Bo

Steve, personally I'd stay as far from the Sony plate as possible, they've always been awful for long lens work.
Just get a plate made up by an engineer, something like 2" wide, 1/4" thick and 15" long aluminium. Needs a countersunk hole underneath for attaching to camera base (ideally with a lip somewhere to stop it twisting), then a groove up front with a captive bolt in it to hold the lens foot. Then you can get spacers made for the lens feet of different lenses. Much more secure than anything off the shelf. See pics.
Steve

Hi
Now i see what you meen - an easy way to make a support for the lens. As you say it is quite expensive to buy and not very solid anyway. The two support pipes are quite expensive and your solution will do the same . at least. I´ll find someone to produce something like what I see on your pictures. Do you have some kind of drawing of the support ?

I have just made a similar support to this using 3mm Al strip, 50 mm wide and 2 short lengths of U channel Al to support the massive (in the strict Physics meaning) Century 2x converter which hangs off the front of my Sony V1E.

Two plates on the top surface of the channel section support camera and lens, a third plate on the lower surface carries the sliding plate from my Manfrotto Universal sliding plate. I have the camera and the tripod supports offset so that I can balance the camera both with, and without the very heavy converter using the 357 PLONG plate

I have not noticed yet - guess I just use the camera in ways that do not make it visible :
http://ms1.tvmidtvest.dk/natur/video/Rovterne.wmv
This was the only chance I got to make the dive of this bird - it is not optimal but it give an idear of what you can use the camera for.
Nice clip, Bo!

Do you use the camera handheld, resting on the shoulder, or do you have it on a tripod? Have you tried a monopod or a steadicam when shooting flying birds?

Cheers
Sverker

In this case I used a Canon broadcast 2/3" lens with an ex - 1/2" lens adapter. That was before I got the EX-2/3" adapter. I have both a Sachtler video 25 and a Sachtler video 18 tripod and in this case the video 18 holds the EX3 fine. Hope I will get the chance again - a little closer. But it is difficult to know when the bird hits the surface and stop diving - it would be easier in a larger picture but nicer in a closeup. Handheld could be fine for flying birds but I prefer the tripod and a tele.It is easier to follow them because the movement of the camera would not be so big.
Never tried a monopod or steadicam.
------bo

Never tried a monopod or steadicam.
------boI am considering a steadicam. The idea of being mobile and filming flying birds without putting up a tripod - well, that would be something. From a boat, a car, you name it.

Of course there must be a limit on long lens one can use. I think I have to hire a Steadicam to my EX1.

Those of you with experience of Steadicams, are they good for a tele lens?

/Sverker

Hi
When you operates with a tele you have to work with the focus all the time so I dont think you will be able to use a steadicam for filming flying birds. A steadicam is mostly used with a wideangle and and to soften your own movements - I dont know if you can handle the camera pans and tilts fast enough to follow the bird. But never say never - I do not have any experience in steadicam work myself. I'll b e very interested in whatever you find out.
Some birds are impossible to follow - small birds are unprodictable in their movements -- like butterflies moving up and down and sidewards all the time. One of the birds I am going to try soon, is the Kingfisher, but it is also to fast in their flight - only the dive from a tree would be possible.
.........bo

Good afternoon,

I shoot with an xl2 and have lenses already.

Can I use these canon lenses (you said you used a canon) or will I need another adapter??

I was going to go with the canon xlh1, but the ability to over crank would be a huge asset for my type of filming, mostly Waterfouwl and Raptors.


thanks for the comments!!!



the link below is an example of the kind of shooting I do.

Hunting the Hard Way, Uwol 7 on Vimeo (http://www.vimeo.com/747391)

Dale, if they are autofocus lenses you can't use them on the EX as they don't have aperture rings.
Steve

Good evening,

Even on the xl2 the lenses have to have seperate zoom and focus rings.

eg. I use a 100 to 400 l series zoom lens. It can change aperature through the camera body.

However: I use a 200mm macro lens& a 500 mm lens where i set the aperature manually and this works just fine.

the real question is, will these EF and/or FD canon lenses work on the ex 1 or 3!!???

On the xl2 i use and ef adapter or with a fd converter as well.


Can I make these lenses work!!???

Dale
Mike Tapa is planning to fabricate an EX3 FD converter, you can contact him personaly.
To make an EF lens work on EX3 or any other camera, the converter will have to engage some electronics to operate the aparture (can be done , but not practical).

Sassi,

I could live without the fd lenses, but what about the canon EF lenses!!!

I am considering a steadicam. The idea of being mobile and filming flying birds without putting up a tripod - well, that would be something. From a boat, a car, you name it.

Of course there must be a limit on long lens one can use. I think I have to hire a Steadicam to my EX1.

Those of you with experience of Steadicams, are they good for a tele lens?

/Sverker

Hej,

I shoot SteadiCam and cannot imagine that you could shoot birds while moving in a boat or from a car, let alone with a telephoto lens. SteadiCam is difficult and requires a lot of time and practice to master. Since I haven't mastered it entirely, I cannot say definitively that it would be impossible, but I think it probably is. Plus, you have to realize that you cannot operate a SteadiCam and make adjustments to the focal length, aperture, or focus (without additional rigging, and even then it would be very, very hard to do it all at once if possible at all). So following the flight of a bird would just be near impossible. Have you considered investing, instead, in a high-quality stabilizing lens? And budget aside, watch the making-of features on the Winged Migration DVD. That's how to shoot birds with a tracking shot!

skål!

Ramsey

For those of you that are unaware the EX3 as a poorly designed tripod mount and needs to be reinforced especially when using longer lenses! This can be bough from either DM-Accessories (http://shop.dm-accessories.com/products/ex3-plate) or VF Gadgets (http://www.vfgadgets.com/grip-camera/ex3-heavy-duty-base-plate-system). It’s essential!!!

Also the microphone holder is prone to breaking away so I highly recommend changing it for a cold-shoe mount again from DM-Accessories (http://shop.dm-accessories.com/products/ex1-flat).

I use my EX-3 with lenses up to 600mm and high recommended the RRS (Really Right Stuff) Kennan Ward Super-Tele Package (http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/Customkititems.asp?kc=KennanWardPkg&eq=/).

Fore/Aft Plate for the EX-3 (http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/items.asp?Cc=BodyCamAll&iTpStatus=1&Tp=&Bc=/) and an additional required 80mm Clamp with Dual Mount (Platform) (http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/Itemdesc.asp?ic=B2%2DPro%2FL&eq=&Tp=/).

I am also using the MTF Services (http://www.mtfservices.com/mtf-products-list/mounts-and-adaptors/21-nikon-to-sony-ex3-adaptor.html) Nikon to EX Mount Adaptor with great effect!

Also a cheaper alternative to the SxS Pro Memory Cards are great as long as you don’t over crank them! The adaptors can be purchased from E-Films (http://e-films.com.au/) and can be used with very successfully with Transcend Secure Digital Card SDHC Class 6 - 16GB (http://www.picstop.co.uk/Secure-Digital-SDHC/Transcend-Secure-Digital-Card-SDHC-Class-6---16GB) the overall saving is about 90%.

Also a UV filter that allows the Lens Hood back on once fitted is the Hoya 77mm SHMC PRO1-D UV (http://www.warehouseexpress.com/product/default.aspx?sku=1011139)

Hope this helps anyone looking at the EX-3 as a wildlife camcorder! I love mine!

Andrew - I did a quickie review of the Sony EX3 and posted it at:

Camcorder and Equipment Reviews for Nature and Wildlife Videography (http://www.pronghornproductions.com/Equipment%20Reviews.html)

In my opinion, when you look at the entire package, the EX3 can't be beat for wildlife work (interchangeable lens, relatively portable, widely accepted format, tapeless, overcranking, reasonable price, etc.). My only complaint is the lack of a pre-record cache. Last, I've had great success with the Kensington adapters and Transcend cards so I suggest saving a few bucks and going with those versus the Sony cards (but have at least one Sony card for maximum overcranking).

Many thanks for posting the review. Have you come across any problems associated with the rolling shutter "jello" look that some others have made reference to? This may be evident on fast pans.

Andy

For those of you that are unaware the EX3 as a poorly designed tripod mount and needs to be reinforced especially when using longer lenses! This can be bough from either DM-Accessories (http://shop.dm-accessories.com/products/ex3-plate) or VF Gadgets (http://www.vfgadgets.com/grip-camera/ex3-heavy-duty-base-plate-system). It’s essential!!!


I have been using the EX3 almost every day for the last 4 or 5 months and I am not sure I share this view.
Since when using long lenses I mount the camera+lens combo on the tripod via the lens "foot" - the camera is simply hanging on the lens - there is no need for this reinforcment.
I don't use any support to my camera+lens combo and it works fine for me.

Cheers,
http://www.oferlevyphotography.com

Hi Ofer,

I used mine for several months without any problems too but never felt it was the strongest design in the world though. However when I received an email from a friend telling me that his EX-3 had fallen from his tripod I decided to investigate.

The tripod fixing plate at the bottom of the camera is made out of plastic and is held in place by four microscopic screws. It wouldn't take much for this to tear out at all! Just one accidental nudge and bang!

As far as I aware this problem is now fairly common knowledge and has been discussed at length somewhere else on this forum. I agree that if you are careful then you don't need to reinforce it but when using long lenses, placing microphones, external monitors on the camera then I feel it is essential.

To be honest I rather pay the small asking price for the reinforced plate that is mounted in three places than have to foot the bill if it fell off my tripod. Just to replace a lens would cost in excess of a £1000+, how much to repair a damaged camera???

I just felt obliged to inform potential EX-3 buyers and existing users of the problem. Don't get me wrong I love my EX-3 and wouldn't swap it for anything else - for the money it's an awesome wildlife camera.

Happy shooting,

Paul

Hi Paul, I totally agree with you regarding the camera base being too weak!
I am only referring to the use of long telephoto lenses when the camera is not attached to the tripod but hanging on the lens which is attached to the tripod via its "foot".
Have a look in here:
Ofer Levy Nature Photographer - New Photos (http://oferlevyphotography.com/NewPhotos.aspx)

This is how I use the long lenses and it works great! I do have to be careful as the camera-lens attachment is a bit fragile. So far so good.

Hi Ofer,

Man that's some set-up. I would prefer to support the camera as well as that is putting some stress on the EX Mount! That's why I use the RRS Telephoto Rail! The camera weighs 4kgs plus you dropped in the larger 60 battery increasing it's weight further! If you support both you'll reduce the risk of vibration problems too (i.e. camera shake!).

Happy shooting,

Paul

I use my EX-3 with lenses up to 600mm and high recommended the RRS (Really Right Stuff) Kennan Ward Super-Tele Package (http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/Customkititems.asp?kc=KennanWardPkg&eq=/).

Fore/Aft Plate for the EX-3 (http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/items.asp?Cc=BodyCamAll&iTpStatus=1&Tp=&Bc=/) and an additional required 80mm Clamp with Dual Mount (Platform) (http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/Itemdesc.asp?ic=B2%2DPro%2FL&eq=&Tp=/).

The above will support both the lens and the camera!

I would prefer to support the camera as well as that is putting some stress on the EX Mount!


We discussed this before, I agree with you Paul that it's quite a heavy thing to hang off the back of a Nikon mount! But each to their own, and Ofer's results speak for themselves.
My suggestion was getting a left hand pan bar and rotating it up under the camera base just to give it a bit a bracing.

Ofer, any clips to show now, always enjoy your work?

Steve

We discussed this before, I agree with you Paul that it's quite a heavy thing to hang off the back of a Nikon mount! But each to their own, and Ofer's results speak for themselves.
My suggestion was getting a left hand pan bar and rotating it up under the camera base just to give it a bit a bracing.

Ofer, any clips to show now, always enjoy your work?

Steve

Hi Steve, I have been filming like mad in the last few months, however, I still have to get the MacPro and the FCP so I can sort out all the endless hours I got.
I got my new website ready for video clips presentation as well so I hope it will happen in a few weeks. (I have been saying this for a few months - I know...)-: )

Hi Ofer,

Man that's some set-up. I would prefer to support the camera as well as that is putting some stress on the EX Mount! That's why I use the RRS Telephoto Rail! The camera weighs 4kgs plus you dropped in the larger 60 battery increasing it's weight further! If you support both you'll reduce the risk of vibration problems too (i.e. camera shake!).

Happy shooting,

Paul

I guess we will have to agree to disagree...(-:
I don't feel the camera is too heavy to be hanging on the lens and I am certain that adding the support system has nothing to do with reducing vibrations. I got perfectly vibration free footage even when using a 600mm lens on a Z7 as long as I don't directly touch the camera/tripod/head. I always use a rubber band to get the camera movement and it works like magic. I have also managed to solve the problem of wind induced vibrations by using a hide.

I have to say that 4kg is a lot of weight without support though. It's the same as mounting a stills camera body on a tripod head then putting a 500mm f4 lens onto it hanging off the front - also about 4kg. You'd never ever consider doing it, you'd mount the lens onto the head and have the body hanging off the back of it.
But, I do know that you're critical about your work and you wouldn't do it if you thought it was causing your results to be less than perfect.
Steve

I have to say that 4kg is a lot of weight without support though. It's the same as mounting a stills camera body on a tripod head then putting a 500mm f4 lens onto it hanging off the front - also about 4kg. You'd never ever consider doing it, you'd mount the lens onto the head and have the body hanging off the back of it.
But, I do know that you're critical about your work and you wouldn't do it if you thought it was causing your results to be less than perfect.
Steve

The body is only around 2Kg and not 4Kg so it is not that much heavier than the stock lens to which you won't consider using any support...

Ofer that true! I forgot to subtract the lens you took off! Silly me! 2kgs isn't so bad! But I'd still like to support my nonetheless! As you say each to their own! It's the end results that matter most!

If I set-up my camera look you I know I'll knock it off within ten minutes - I get so engrossed with the subject that'll just forget it's hanging off!

Just been browsing through your site - you have some nice work! Will keep an eye out for your new vids.

I keep meaning to upload some to my site but never seem to get around too it!

Happy shooting,

Paul

OK, so 2kg is not so bad, not that much more than a Nikon D3 etc. I suppose.
Steve

I don't understand why all video cameras aren't made to accept a heavy duty 2 screw tripod mounting plate. What I've done to stop any shifting is by using clear silcone between the camera and mounting plate. If you have to remove it for any reason simply use a sharp utility knife and carefully cut around the perimeter than pry it off with your hands.

Leon Lorenz
Canadian Wildlife Productions: Grizzly Bears, Bighorm Sheep in Alberta & BC Rockies DVD Videos (http://www.wildlifevideos.ca)