I'm having the same problem with my 1 year old G2, but my rocker zoom does not work at all. The handle zoom works untill the "auto zoom" takes over, then nothing works till I shut the thing off and then back on.

Might be caused by bad contacts on the rocker switch.

I had this problem with my XM1 a couple of years ago when recording some stage shows. The zoom just kept doing its own thing in the middle of the performance and I had to fight for control of the lens.

Strangely, it only happened at 2 venues which were within a few hundred yards of the police HQ, where they were testing a new secure radio system at about the same time. I blamed RF intereference at the time, but was never able to prove it.

My church uses a Canon GL1 to record the weekly services. Right now there is NO post-production being done so its being recored live to a DVD burner directly from the camera. How do I get the GL1 to operate without needing a tape actively recording in the camera? It goes to sleep on me if I aren't recording. For now I am just recycling the same tapes each week but I know there must be a setting for this.

Sorry but there's no way around that on the old GL1.

I believe that it can be accomplished by leaving the tape door open. This is a crude work-around, and it can subject the inside of the camera to excessive contaminants.

I just bought a used GL1. The camera works in every respect except:

There are some black bars on the left and right side. This does not show up on the LCD or viewfiner. It only shows up when I download the video.
- This happens in 4:3 and 16:9
- I tried with PPro and Windows Movie Maker's capture and results are the same.

Questions:
- Is this normal for all GL1's ?
- If it is, what is the best solution for removing in post?
- Is there a way to capture WITHOUT the back bars?

I imagine the simple solution is to crop by increasing the size of the image, but then EVERYTHING on the timeline would have to be rendered. And that sucks.

HELP!!

An old question. You can find several threads on this issue here and in the XL1 forum.

The black bars correspond to the "overscan" area with normal TV sets. You do not see it on a TV. The bars are well out of the "action safe" part of the image, amounting to 8 pixels at each end of the scan line. It equates to a true 4:3 aspect ratio for a 480 line NTSC image, and is one of several standard standard formats.

However, overscan concept does not apply in the world of PC, so you do see the black bars on a computer with video shot on an older camcorders such as the GL1 or XL1.

How to deal with it depends on your NLE and what you are delivering. For most purposes producing video for display on a TV set you can usually ignore it.

The bars are in the video stream from the tape, so you get them if you do a IEEE-1394 (firewire) capture.

.

Thanks for the reply. Since I rely heavily on my content being delivered to the web, the black lines are a big deal.

Thanks for the input.

I try to remember, but i am not sure... it will works, if you use the camera on Power Supply and without tape inside.

I record timelapse footage straight into my laptop with no tape..had the power supply connected..worked fine, but I think the camera being connected to the computer via the firewire overrides the camera fallin "asleep." Do you have access to a laptop by any chance? that's probably ur best bet..capture straight into NLE..and you could edit if needed or just burn onto dvd from there..

You don't need a tape to accomplish what you're saying. Eject any tape. Run the AV cable into the DVD Recorder, the camera won't power down.

You can still do it off of battery and you can still do it with the tape door shut, as long as there's no tape inside.

I've done it many times.

What is the differnce between the Canon GL1 & GL1a?

I'm new to this site as you can tell

My grandmother gave me this video camera that I hardly ever use. So I think I might get rid of it but I'm not sure if it's the GL1 or GL1a.

There was no such thing as a GL1a. There was only the GL1.

Are you sure you're not asking about the difference between the GL1 and GL2? There's a world of difference between these two camcorders. So much changed going from the GL1 to the GL2 that it's a lot easier to tell you how they're the same rather than how they're different.

How they're the same: Both have a 20x zoom lens, optical image stabilization and Frame movie mode. Everything else between them is different.

Within the XL line, the DM-XL1A was the North American (NTSC) version
The letter "E" was used to designate the European (PAL) version; e.g., DM-XL1E.
The NTSC version of the HV20 is labeled HV20A, and the PAL version is HV20E.

FWIW: The Canon L2A was the NTSC version of the L2, and the old A1DigitalA (going back to to 1991) was the NTSC version.

I've not seen the "A" designation used in the the GL1 literature (owners manual or service manual), because the PAL variants have a designation (i.e., XM1). However, that nomenclature (DM-GL1A) is retained on the nameplate of the NTSC version of the camcorder.

Thus we can assume with some measure of confidence that the GL1A is just the North American (NTSC) version of the GL1.

...that nomenclature (DM-GL1A) is retained on the nameplate of the NTSC version of the camcorder.Now that I did not know. I learn something from you just about every time you post, Don -- many thanks,

Okay. I have the GL1 then.
On the botem of the camera it has GL1a, but on the side it has GL1.

Thanks for the help.

Obviously, there is no USB interface. Is there a way to allow it to operate as a webcam? I do a daily internet video program, and I own a GL1. I currently use a Panasonic sdr s150 as a webcam. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Marc

I have used my Canon XM2 as a webcam several times. So I believe you should be able to use the GL1 too. (you will have to use firewire)

I use 35mm as webcam. Really, works great, I get no complaints from my chat-partners!

only kidding, I think you should have no problem using the GL1 as a webcam, if the program and your computer recognizes it.

I plugged in the firewire, and my video app recognizes the cam. However, the camera goes into an auto demo mode, zooming, slimming and stretching.

How do I kill the GL1 demo?

I am running a daily internet TV program, and really want to use this camera! Thanks.

Marc

Camera Menu > Demo Mode > Off.

As described on page 23 of the GL1 operator's manual.

Hi everybody, I just got a used gl1 and now I'm confused about which brand of tapes should use,
the person that owned this camera recommended panasonic
but as I have seen various types and prices I don't know which will be the best for this camera
so the thing is, does getting the expensive ones makes a difference?
or it's is ok to get the cheaper?
also which is the one You use (if you have a gl1)?
and where you buy them, I think most of us (if not all) look for the best prices.

The GL1 is a great camera to get started with, especially if you picked up for a good price. Stay with Panasonic brand there is nothing wrong with them and it is always best to stay with the same brand.

I pick my tapes up at thetapguys.com. Fair price and good service. Since your still shooting standard def, I would suggest saving the money get their middle grade tape.

Chad

Went to turn on my GL1 and nothing happens. It was working absolutely fine a couple hours earlier. Batteries are all good. I hit the reset button to no avail. Wondering if there's a backup battery inside that would prohibit the camera from turning on. If there is a b/u battery how do you get access to it and what type of battery is it that I'd need to replace. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

I'm needing to eject a tape from my GL1 that just died. Wondering if anyone has a suggestion on how to get the tape out.

Around the record button there is a switch that will put the camera into standby mode, even if the main power is turned on. Try flipping this switch to the other position.

Well, that's a given but I have a suspicion that it's one of the three fuses inside the unit that isn't user accessable. But also, what my have caused the fuse to blow if in fact it is a fuse. Not too many people work on these cameras besides Canon Factory Service.., But thanks for your suggestion.

The backup battery is an internal rechargeable, not user replaceable, and it mainly stores settings and date/time. Not likely to cause the camcorder not to power on.

Most common cause is the Standby/Lock level position, but you said that you have already checked that issue.

Alternatives include the power switch operation/position or something preventing good battery contact.

Blown fuse is for protection of circuits in the camcorder, and possible causes include an over current caused by a short, component failure, or an improper connection of a power source to the camcorder (wrong voltage, wrong polarity, etc.) But that covers wide range of things and is of little help to yor problem.

Not too many people work on these cameras besides Canon Factory Service.And yet that is your single best option to take, short of replacing the camera.

you have to take the cassette cover off and on the chassis in the lower right corner there is a post kinda looks like a battery with the sticker removed it is called the capstan motor. There are two pieces of solder on top you have to apply power to them and then the tape will come out, just be careful because the ribon will not go back in you will have to do that by hand.

Just get a bigger hammer

ken