I completely agree with Jason,

I am using the studio one xlr box and the SGM-1x with my GL1 setup and it has made a big difference

Rick

I haven't yet made much use of shotgun microphones in my work, but I often connect to feeds from audio mixers. I use a Sign Video XLR adapter/2ch. mixer, and have found it an indispensable item for the GL1. I even use it on my XL1s sometimes.

Hi all.

I started experementing with a Canon GL1. I went to a race track the other day as I wanted to try to film some different shots off a pod that my friend had installed on his formula type race car. The footage was great until the cars started picking up speed and that's when I started getting this mosaic like noise on the screen and the footage came out drastically unusable. When the cars stopped again everything was back to normal which also rules out the DV tape being defected as well as a dirty video head issue. I tried messing with the shutter speed and the image stabilizer but this didn't solve the problem. What surprised me is that we installed a normal DV cam and the picture turned out perfect. What could be the problem? Is it a setting thing? Is it a mechanical thing where it was due to the vibration of the car at high speed? I tried to look it up in the canon catalogue but didn't really find a solution. Please could someone possibly help me with this? Thanks!

It might help if you were more precise in describing what you were shooting and how you were handling the camera.

And how close were you to this action?

I'd place my bet on vibration. There are a lot of ways that mechanical resonance can bite. Can you soften the mount at all to see if there is improvment?

BTW, Jeff are you in CT by any chance?

I have a GL1 and I know that the GL1 has 270,000 pixels per ccd and the VX1000 has 410,000 pixels per ccd. I was just wondering if pixels play a big role in quility and if the GL1 can produce an image as good as the VX1000.

Personal preference...

VX = cooler color/ sharper image
GL = warmer color / softer image

Sharper does NOT mean better, just sharper =o)



ash =o)

Ash is right, it's more a preference (hope that's spelled right).

I think it depends on what you want to make. Maybe (and this is still your own choice) the GL1 is better for moviemaking because it has a more 'filmic' image, via the warm colours and the some softer image, but the VX1000 is maybe the best for weddings, scate boarding movies,...

And also remember, what feels right in your hands.
I have an XL1s but for an event I played with the Sony PD170, but I preferred the Canon much more because where buttons are placed etcetera, and the menus, it was much easier, although the PD170 is image quality - wise, much better for event videography (better low light, much less noise).
But other people may find the Sony easier to work with.

So, if you have the chance, pick both up (or maybe in stores a VX2100 and a GL2 as they are easier to find and have a lot in common with their precedors) and look what you like the best.

Hi what do you want to do. Do you want to set up a internet tv channel or do want to use it as a web cam. if you want to set up a internet tv channel you will need severs. if you want to use it as a web cam you just select the camera in the msn messenger video/audio options. i use it all the time in msn messenger. it works great.

Can i just say something. the NSTC version of the camcorder is called the GL1 and the pal version is called the XM2

I just bought my first prosumer camera, the gl1. My problem is that it did not come with the manuel. Does anyone know if the manuel can be downloaded from any sites or maybe someone has a manuel that they are not in need of anymore? Any help would be great.

All the major camcorder manufacturers are now very good about this. Here you go:

http://alpha02.c-wss.com/inc/ApplServlet?RQF=MENU&RQS=WWUCA910&LA=1122991455646&SV=WWUCA900&menu=MA&TRF=MAIN

If you have any trouble with the link, let me know and I'll email you the .PDF file myself

The GL1's manual is also available from the Canon site:

http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=DownloadDetailAct&fcategoryid=326&modelid=7376

The GL1's manual is also available from the Canon site:

http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=DownloadDetailAct&fcategoryid=326&modelid=7376
Right. It's ultimately the same link.

You guys rock! I'm so glad I found this site.

. .and we are glad you found it too!

Have fun . .. Grazie

Oops, covered nicely.

Yes, you can run it live using Firewire. I've done it a few times on XL1s. I assume it would work using GL1 through Firewire.

Yep thats what i do is use it in msn messenger through firewire except you dont fit as much in

Hey guys, I have a question concerning the new Formatt matte box I got for my GL1. Ok, the box is cool and everything and now I can use 4x4 filters instead of the smaller Cokin filters I've been using, but I was curious as to whether or not I can use the matte box with my current WA and telephoto lenses. Since the lenses are 58mm, I would imagine the next step up would be 62mm on the lense's end, but Formatt doesn't make a 62mm thread. That's okay because there's a whole selection of 62mm threads on B&H's website. Another question I have is which filter should I get? One designed for WA lenses or one designed for filters? Or should I just forget the whole thing and switch when necessary?

Jack - which Wide angle do you have that has a 62mm end? I have the Canon WD58H, this has a 80mm end? I use the Kestrel matt box and use a 80mm adaptor.

Grazie

No, no, I was guessing and you're right, the WA lens isn't 62mm on the end (but the telephoto lens is). I bought a 62mm lense hood to try this out on today and I don't know what the WA lens is, but the 62mm was almost a close fit so maybe 67mm? I'm using some cheap lenses I got off of eBay, they work pretty good but have vignetting problems =P. They're Opteka brand. Strange though, because on Opteka's website the lens apparently has 62mm front threads, I wonder why the hood didn't work. Maybe I should try a 62mm wide angle hood to see if there's a difference?

Hi all,

I'm making a video and without knowing I filmed a good chunk of it at frame setting. Looking at the finished work now even a relatively slow pan gives a real jagged effect that I don't want. Is there anything I can do at this stage to smoothen it out?

I tried messing around a bit more with the footage: When put straight to VHS it was fine (the orignal went to DVD via toast making it jerky). Tried last night putting it to DVD via iDVD - it wasn't as jerky at all but the definition was lower, and low contrast. The computer is a G5 using final cut pro (4.5 I think)

Thanks in advance,
Philip

Hey guys

I'm looking into buying a 3CCD video camera. I currently own a Canon 300D and a Canon 20D digital still camera, both of which I use for paintball photography. For those of you that don't know what paintball is, it's teams shooting at each other with guns propelled with compressed air or co2. The paintballs travel at 300 fps or roughly 200 miles per hour and of course can cause some damage to cameras. I have been photographing for about a year and am planning on starting to make my own videos.

Currently the only video camera I own is a Canon ZR80 which obviously isn't geared towards making professional quality DVDs. Right now I'm basically using it to mess around and learn how to use Premeire (which I must admit is the absolute hardest piece of software I have EVER tried to figure out.)

Anyways, as far as buying a new video camera, I have come across a well used GL1 and a fairly new XL1. Both were owned by a paintball DVD company that went out of business.

The XL1 (not an XL1s, just an XL1) is $1,500. There aren't any problems with it.

The GL1 is $600, but I can get them down lower since it has so many problems. Here is an exact qoute of how the owner described the GL1:

"The GL-1 has definitely seen better days. It's pop out LCD display on the side no longer works. There is a hairline crack by the on off switch. The lens hood is cracked, and the battery lock is broken so if you knock the back of the camera on something, the battery pops off."

They are also selling a GL2 in near mint condition for $1,200. It's pretty much out of the question because I would definitley give the extra $300 for the XL1, or else take the cheap route and get the beat up GL1.

I have 4 questions.

#1. How much would it cost for Canon to repair or replace the LCD and Battery Lock (an estimate is fine). I think I could handle using the GL1 without the LCD, and I could probably rig some sort of rubber band/duct tape to hold the battery in. Remember, I am filming paintball games and my camera is going to get the crap shot out of it no matter what I do.

#2. Being in near mint condition for the $1,500 XL1, would it be a better deal than paying $500 for the beat up GL1? I don't plan on buying any lenses for the XL1 at least for a good while, so that's not much of an issue.

#3. I have not ever personally used an XL1/s/2, how massive are they? Is it something that's going to be a burden to carry around on a paintball field for hours?

#4. How much better is the 2 than the S, and the S than the 1? Is an novice going to notice any difference?


Thanks a lot everyone for your time!

You are talking several hundred to repair the GL1. It was discontinued 3-4 years ago, as was the XL1. But you can call Canon at their 800 number and see what they say.

If you are just shooting and do not need the extra capabilities of the XL1 such as interchangeable lenses, arguably more convenient controls, and greater audio capability, give serious consideration to the GL2. A GL2 is about half the size of the XL1, and a smaller target for the stray shot.

Any used camcorder is a bit of a gamble, no warranty and in most cases an unknown history. Part of the trade-off for the lower price.

the near-mint GL2 sounds like the better choice for paintball, the compact size means you'll get better shots and a smaller target. one other advantage i find is that i can actually mount it on a very small tripod for these kinds of occasions and run around with it already tripod-mounted and still be carrying something which is easier to maneuver than my XL2. the GL1 sounds like too much work/too risky. an XL camera seems like overkill. with frame mode and a coupla filters, like a pro-mist or soft fx, you can get a nice signature look on the GL2.

I certainly wouldn't go for the GL1.
And although I would prefer an XL cam, I think the GL2 is in this case the best option for you. If it would be an xl1s I would doubt more, but if it's the old XL1... And if you have to bear it for hours...

Does anyone know where I can purchase parts for this camcorder. I am looking for the movable lens in the viewfinder, unfortunately the plastic cam on this part has broken off and I am unable to adjust the position or hold it in place

I sold a friend an Azden true diversity mic setup. He is using a GL1. With a regular vhf receiver his audio is fine, with the true diversity receivers the audio is very, very low. I used this setup with our XL1s before going UHF (worked fine). Anyone know the problem? Compatibility issue maybe?

You did not mention which model for the Azden setup. I'm guessing it is not one that mounts in the camera shoe and has a short 1/8 cord for input to the camera mic jack. Is it one which has XLR output from the receiver, and an XLR to 1/8 mini plug adapter cable is being used to input the signal to the GL1? If so, make sure the 1/8 side is mono instead of stereo. Or use a 1/8 stereo to 1/8 mono adapter. My Azden UDR 400 with XLR output does not work well at all with my GL1 if the 1/8 jack is stereo. Works fine if it is mono.

So I have a small Mackie mixer thats bringing in audio from the wireless mic to my GL1 what port should I be connecting to and what settings should I be picking in the GL1 menu for the best recording.

Thanks
Mike

One apprach is to set the Mackie mixer output to MIC level and using the approprite adpter cables connect to the mic input jack on the GL1 You might need to use the MIC ATT setting as well.

Hello All,

I’m a new member and first of all I got to say that I love this place. There is so much knowledge floating around.

Well, I am hoping that some of you can help me out. For the life of me, I cannot figure out how:

1) Clean the inside of the viewfinder. How do I even access the inside of it?
2) Remove the rubber eye piece so I can wash it out?

Any ideas? I appreciate all the help. Thanks for your time!

chances are its just on the magnifying glass at the eyepeice and not on the lcd. so just look for a way to detach the top portion of your eyepiece to clean it with a q-tip

Hi Tim,

Thanks for repling. I looked into what you mentioned. I unscrewed two screws at the at the very begining of the eyepiece towards the bottom hoping to remove the rubber eyepiece and giving me access to the top portion of the eyepiece. No success. The rubber eyepiece of the viewfinder will not come off. Any other ideas?

Is the GL1 a good camera to shoot short "films" or am I better off saving for another camera such as the DVX100B? As far as I can tell the GL1 does not have 24p capability - how much weight should I put on that? Thanks for any comments.

Depends on the budget...

If you have the budget, of course a DVX100A or B will be better, but the camera is more expensive and is much newer too...

The GL1 NTSC doesn't have a 24p ability, only a frame mode, which is 30p.

AJ,

Search this site, there are examples of short style footage, it is quite amazing what can be done with a gl2!!!
with a bigger budget you can get an xl2 and have all kinds of options!!!

The GL1 is more good enough. Its 30f image is pretty nice. Although, honestly, I suppose if the story fit the format you could shoot on an old VHS camcorder.

Hello,

Sorry i don't mean to hog this forum but I have so many questions and you are all rather helpful!

I am not convinced that my Camera is showing colours properly. I have had it serviced recently and they changed the heads/drum assembly (and hopefully calibrated it) however all my footage seems to looks dull and lifeless. I think it should have more colour to it.

As the camera doesn't have a test signal built in and I don't have any fancy test pattern cards does anybody know how I might do a simple test to see if it is roughly ok?

Thanks in advance.

Alex

i do it by eye to be honest, but make sure saturation is turned up first, or do some boosting in post.

Umm, yeah. I was just wondering if there is any device control setting on the GL1, as I couldn't find one. I know the GL2 and the XL series cams have this feature, but I have been unable to find it on the GL1, so am I correct in assuming it simply doesn't have it? My situation is this. I use a Firestore FS-4 to record tapeless, but would like to use the Stop/Start button on the GL1 to initiate the Start/Stop on the FS-4. Without Device Control on the GL1, is this possible?

Sorry if this doesn't belong in this forum, but I thought this was the most fitting place to ask.

Thanks

Hi Brian,

Sorry, the GL1 and XL1 do not have device control. That feature came starting with the XL1s. So I'm afraid you are stuck with manually starting and stopping your Firestore unit with that camera.

-gb-

Hi,
I have owned a used GL1 for over five years (I'm guessing the camera has almost 8 years of usage under its belt) I recently encountered massive amounts of artifacting and pixel shifting that seemed linked to motion (both camera motion and object motion). I also noticed that after recording, the tapes had a slight concave that had not previously existed. While the GL1 is my back up camera (my primary camera is a GY HD 100) I wanted to repair it or replace it promptly. I sent the GL1 to Canon and asked them to take a look at it and give me a repair cost estimate. The e-mailed me back and told me that a repair would cost about $600.00.

I have been very happy with my GL1 but I am wondering if $600 would be better spent upgrading. After 8 years can I expect the camera’s other parts to function reliably for another few years after a repair? Should I repair or should I upgrade to a GL2?

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

-Michael Anderson

Maybe save up some money and go for a maybe slight used GL2?

Does anyone know if you take a tape shot on the DVX100 in 24P and put it in a GL1 for capturing into a computer, if it will work? Any problems with this?

Thanks!

Kevin

Yes. It will work. No problem. 1's and 0's.

The DVX inserts pulldown when it writes to tape, so the 24p will look like regular old 29.97i to the Canon.

is all dv cam capable of playing back 24p
do you have any loss in quality

Dv is DV is DV is DV is DV. The data format is the same no matter whether it was shot on a $4000 XL2 or a $300 ZR-25. NTSC DV is 30 fps interlaced, 720X480, @ 25mbps. It will play back on any DV camera, regardless of the frame rate, aspect ratio, etc. that it was shot at, and with zero loss of quality.

Cameras (like the DVX100 and XL2) that can shoot other frame rates and aspect ratios basically work by taking the 24p data and fitting it into a 60i stream, because that's all the DV specification allows. Since all DV is technically exactly the same as far as any camera or playback device is concerned, you can play it back on any camera, no matter where or how you shot it.