So I've been testing and trying out profiles for the EA50, including ones made for the FS100. I wanted a profile that would require little grading in post, as the EA50 doesn't provide the best files for that purpose. I went from heavy adjustments in post to a nice filmic image, then kept adjusting the profile until it is pretty much spot-on with what I'm grading. The only post grading this may need is a correction like white balance or exposure in case you messed up in shooting. Again, this is not intended to be graded but rather be as close in-camera as possible. This is NOT a "log" style profile. I think it's really nice and I'll be using it for most projects and then switching to the F3 for stuff that I want to grade.

This is created for BOTH indoor and outdoor situations.

This is what I'm calling "CPF FILMIC 1.0":
(I'm throwing in explanations of the settings to hopefully pre-answer any thoughts that any of you may have.)

BLACK LEVEL: 0
GAMMA: Cinematone1 (Places the midtones to around IRE 35, where they should be for a filmic look)
BLK GAMMA: Middle, +7 (Pulls the detail out from the shadows)
KNEE: Manual, 75%, +1 (Nice rolloff while maintaining detail)
COLOR MODE: Cinematone1, 8
COLOR LEVEL: +2 (The magic number in my opinion with this camera)
COLOR PHASE: -7 (Helps keep reds from bleeding and skintones from being too rosy)
COLOR DEPTH: R+4, G+3, B+5, C+2, M 0, Y+3 (Positive numbers darken the color channel...make a more pronounce and punchy color gamut)
WB SHIFT: LB-CC, LB-3, CC-1, rest 0 (I have found that I always correct towards blue 99% of the time, so I pushed it a little more to this color temp)
DETAIL: +3, Manual ON, Type 3, Limit 7 (I debate this everytime, but adding sharpening in camera is always desired over doing it in post on AVCHD footage. I think +3 is the magic number)

Hope someone finds this helpful!

R

Hi Richard

Thanks for this! Certainly worth a try and the details you have added make your reasons for each setting self explanatory.

I have been sticking to PP3 with a lifted colour level for both indoors and outdoors but so many people here are still searching for a profile that will work inside and out!

Some feedback from others might be nice if you try Richard's suggested settings?

Chris

Nice work Richard - I'll have a play around with this setting :)

There is a EA50 in Rowlett, TX?

;)

Thanks for posting this.

thanks a lot, is there any other profiles you might be chasing down? maybe a log type profile?

Hope someone finds this helpful!

I don't have the camera anymore but I keep collecting valuable info about it, I hope you don't mind that I shared your findings on my blog (see link below), I have made a clear reference to this site and the fact that you made the preset. Thx for sharing!

Wow! I think someone just put a polarizing filter on my lens and replaced my SD card with Kodachrome! I don't know about "most jobs" but this will have a place. Thank you Richard.

Is it just me....I don't see much of a difference between preset #1 and OFF? So I dialed this one into #1 for now?

Steve

No plans for a log profile, but I don't see any reason you can't use CPF-LOG that we created for the FS100 on the EA50. In retrospect, what I really needed when I created CPF-LOG was the F3 with S-LOG. 8bit AVCHD and log profiles with heavy post grading are honestly a recipe for disaster. It's always best to not go so flat in these cameras.

I think the best profile to use if you want a neutral profile that you can grade that isn't so flat and washed out is the one I created to match the Sony 5n:

CPF_LOG2:
Black Level: 0
Gamma: ITU709
Black Gamma: Low, +7
Knee: Manual, 80%, -3
Color Mode: Standard, 8
Color Level: -1
Color Phase: 0
Color Depth, All 0
WB Shift: All 0
Detail: +3, Manual On, Type3, Limit 7

Wow! I think someone just put a polarizing filter on my lens and replaced my SD card with Kodachrome! I don't know about "most jobs" but this will have a place. Thank you Richard.

Ha! I did try to get an organic color scheme similar to Kodak film with this one. I think that's what makes the Blackmagic look so great is it seems to have that Kodachrome look right out of the gate. If you like a vintage film look try my "EKTACHROME."

EXTACHROME profile:
Black Level: +15
Gamma: CINEMATONE1
Black Gamma: Low, +7
Knee: Manual, 70%, +1
Color Mode: ITU709, 8
Color Level: +2
Color Phase: +3
Color Depth, R+5, G-5, B+5, C+2, M+3, Y+7
WB Shift: R-B, Rgain-3, Bgain+5
Detail: +3, Manual On, Type3, Limit 7, Crispening 4

Very handy info indeed - Thanks Guys I'll give it a go.

Richard,

I posted a sample clip I shot with the first profile:

http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/sony-nex-ea50-all-variants/521044-kit-lens-almost-macro-richards-profile-clip.html

Your the MAN!

Steve

Thanks! I've been shooting with all these profiles the past week and really like the CPF_filmic the best. :)

Has anyone got anywhere near these Canon Flaat profiles?

Here are PP settings to get the 5D Technicolor Cinestyle "look" for the Sony FS100, you'll have to play around with the settings a little for it on the EA50 but this should get you pretty close.

Forgot the link, oops!

FS100 Scene Files from AbelCine | CineTechnica (http://blog.abelcine.com/2011/07/25/fs100-scene-files-from-abelcine/)

P.S.

Many thanks - I'll have a look. :)

So I've been testing and trying out profiles for the EA50, including ones made for the FS100. I wanted a profile that would require little grading in post, as the EA50 doesn't provide the best files for that purpose. I went from heavy adjustments in post to a nice filmic image, then kept adjusting the profile until it is pretty much spot-on with what I'm grading. The only post grading this may need is a correction like white balance or exposure in case you messed up in shooting. Again, this is not intended to be graded but rather be as close in-camera as possible. This is NOT a "log" style profile. I think it's really nice and I'll be using it for most projects and then switching to the F3 for stuff that I want to grade.

This is created for BOTH indoor and outdoor situations.

This is what I'm calling "CPF FILMIC 1.0":
(I'm throwing in explanations of the settings to hopefully pre-answer any thoughts that any of you may have.)

BLACK LEVEL: 0
GAMMA: Cinematone1 (Places the midtones to around IRE 35, where they should be for a filmic look)
BLK GAMMA: Middle, +7 (Pulls the detail out from the shadows)
KNEE: Manual, 75%, +1 (Nice rolloff while maintaining detail)
COLOR MODE: Cinematone1, 8
COLOR LEVEL: +2 (The magic number in my opinion with this camera)
COLOR PHASE: -7 (Helps keep reds from bleeding and skintones from being too rosy)
COLOR DEPTH: R+4, G+3, B+5, C+2, M 0, Y+3 (Positive numbers darken the color channel...make a more pronounce and punchy color gamut)
WB SHIFT: LB-CC, LB-3, CC-1, rest 0 (I have found that I always correct towards blue 99% of the time, so I pushed it a little more to this color temp)
DETAIL: +3, Manual ON, Type 3, Limit 7 (I debate this everytime, but adding sharpening in camera is always desired over doing it in post on AVCHD footage. I think +3 is the magic number)

Hope someone finds this helpful!

R

I justed this picture profile out with my new zeiss sonnar 24mm F1.8
I always used the pp3 profile.

I looks sharp to me but the skincolor is so strange?

the face is orange.. nobody?

Did you manually whitebalance or used a preset?

Noa, I can't remember for sure. I think manual balance (not with a white paper) just pushed the white balance button and saw the camcorder changed the white balance. For my eyes it looked good at that moment

Pushing the whitebalance button without a whitebalance card is not whitebalancing , without a card your camera takes the entire frame to get an average reading of whatever is in the frame and that can result in the color shifting towards orange/red for instance like in your example.

Noa, did just some testing again between this preset and the pp5. Without a white card a face goes to orange color. With the pp5 it doesn't. there is much color into this picture profile.

I will experience further. I like a contrasty and sharper image preset. the pp3 I always used is too soft I realise now.

the face is orange.. nobody?

I would imagine that the PP's are set based on WB. IF you do not WB then you will have all kinds of variations. After you White balance see how the skin tones come out. I try to WB before shooting but sometimes it is not always applicable. So I WB the footage after the fact in post with Colorista from Red Giant. Colorista is a life saver for me. I think I rely too much on it though and has made me lazy when comes to WB.

Noa, did just some testing again between this preset and the pp5. Without a white card a face goes to orange color. With the pp5 it doesn't. there is much color into this picture profile.

I will experience further. I like a contrasty and sharper image preset. the pp3 I always used is too soft I realise now.

It looks to me like you white balanced to the back of the room which is maybe a 5200k bulb? Then the child looks like it is lit with incandescent bulbs (2500k or so). This is the perfect way to make people too orange. The profile I made needs to have proper lighting and white balance to work. It's not a point-and-shoot look like an Instagram filter.

Richard,

After testing I think this preset is not contrasty enough for me. When testing against the pp6 wich looks better to me. More contrast.

I like the look from a dslr camera.

pp6 is too dark in lower light. and the one from Richard is nice but i want more contrast, more a dslr look. Which settings will affect this?