Anybody ever use one of these? Any reason to go with something more expensive?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/68154-REG/Audio_Technica_AT8451_AT8451_Wire_Hanger_Adapter.html

For what application?

When hanging very small (clip-on lav size) mics in a permanent installation (i.e. for low-profile choir mics), there is really no practical alternative. They are rather fiddly and require perhaps days to get the cable to uncurl completely and get the mics aimed properly. But once set, they are the perfect solution.

OTOH, they are not really suitable for any other kind of application. None come to mind. What were you thinking?

Oh I didn't realize they were so small. I need to hang a pair of hypercardiods (akg and schoeps) straight down from the ceiling over a table.

Looking for a cheaper version of this - Schoeps H20G Cable Hanger For CMC MK | Full Compass (http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/171932-Schoeps-H20G)

Since you mention "need to hang a pair of hypercardiods ... straight down from the ceiling over a table":

Don't know how heavy your mics are, but I have done this by running cables in a suspended ceiling, dropping them through at edges or corners of tiles and hanging the mics directly by their (high quality) xlrs cables. Takes a wee while to set up but is a no-cost solution IF you don't cause any damage to the ceiling.

I have seen mics hung by their xlrs (sounds a bit painful doesn't it :-) fitted in theatres, probably for cctv audio in dressing rooms rather than sound reinforcement. Not sure this is best practice nowadays though.

I would like them to be angled somewhat. The mics are an AKG se300b ck93 and schoeps cmc6 mk41.

Then you will indeed need some kind of hanger, though as mentioned by Richard don't be surprised if the mics take a while to stablise their rotation.

Does it have to look "professional"? I have used simple woven nylon cord to suspend the 4-inch mic post and swivel clamp removed from a table-top mic stand. It worked fine but obviously looked home-made. Essentially a DIY version of the Schoeps you linked.

If you are careful with the woven (not twisted) cord, using a new roll and un-roll it rather than un-coil it, it shouldn't take long to stabilize.

To work on a suspended ceiling without having to get above the tiles, I have used ceiling scissor clamps, female to female threaded adapters and either threaded hooks or eye-bolts that were spread open or a small section cut out to form a hook. I have seen now there are ready made loops to go on ceiling scissor clamps, but mine cost pennies versus dollars back in the day when I made 5 of them.

I guess that would work. If the clamp is in the middle I guess it would balance on its own. DIY look is fine for this. Still, if there was a decently priced dedicated product for this I would pick it up.

The more I think about it, I'm really looking for a stereo mounting bar of some kind and then hang it upside down.

One other note, in my use the cord supported the mic and mic holder, and the XLR cable was anchored to a slightly offset location on the ceiling and not tied directly to the supporting cord.

So it was very easy to aim in rotation by adjusting location of the XLR cable anchor point and the rig never moved (unless someone bumped into it).

This method also reduced noise from vibration, because the XLR cable was only supporting its own weight and was slack enough to have a slight curve.

You could sometimes see slight vibration in the cord, but that was lost in the mount before it got to the mic, and couldn't get into the mic cable because they hung separately from each other by a few inches.

A stereo bar would be an easy addition to my system, you would just mount the stereo bar to the 4-inch micstand stud just as you would normally, except hanging upside down.

Yeah that makes sense.

The AT wire hanger adapter is made for the small diameter 'choir type' mics so a standard 19-22mm SDC probably wouldn't fit (w/o a serious mod). A standard stereo bar could be attached to the Schoeps mount with decent quality XLR handling the (static) weight of the bar and two SDCs.

I made some of these with some heavy gauge copper wire. You need to use something that you can bend easy enough but still maintains it's shape in use. I think I used 10 gauge wire with a black coating. To get the shapes find something that's the right size and shape and bend the wire around it. I made them for small choir type mics, but you could make them with a larger diameter for bigger mics. They really do help position the mic where you want it if you get the twists out of the cable.

I reassembled what I used to use and added the stereo bar (and an additional new and helpful adapter).

The only eye bolt I had handy had been sliced open to make a hook. If you want full security use a fully closed eye bolt.

I also added a 1/4-20 stud in the middle of the stereo bar so you can mount your action camera as well!

Use the micstand trim ring and/or the lock nut on the eye bolt to adjust the rotational position as needed.

When using a fully closed eye bolt, a fast way to attach the suspension cord without having to later untie any knots is the following:

Use a bowline hitch to form a non-slipping loop in the end of the cord. This loop should be large enough to pass the entire apparatus through.

Pass the loop through the eye bolt, then pass the apparatus through the loop in the cord.

When pulled back tight, the cord will be trapped in the eye bolt but can be easily removed without having to untie the knot, just reverse the process.

This is also more stable and quieter than using a metal quick link connected to the metal eye bolt.

Wow Jay that's exactly what I need. You should patent that.

You're welcome, glad I could help!

I'll call my attorneys (Kludge, Tinker and Bashem) tomorrow and hopefully start pulling in some retroactive royalty checks.

It seems funny in the internet age, but 30 years ago actually finding a mic stand to 1/4-20 adapter was not that easy.

So this new version looks a lot better than my original that just used a knot... It stayed up for 3 years and never came loose though.

If you used all black hardware it actually would look official, but even in the internet age finding black common hardware like the eyebolt without paying rigging equipment prices would be a pain.

If you used all black hardware it actually would look official, but even in the internet age finding black common hardware like the eyebolt without paying rigging equipment prices would be a pain.
Wipe everything down and apply flat black spray paint!

Go over any scratches that may occur in the paint with a sharpie...

If it looks good, it is good!

Consider using two cords (e.g., something like black paracord) , tied to opposite ends of the stereo bar and running up to the ceiling at a roughly 45 degree angle. (This will keep the bar, and mic) aligned to the stage rather that rotating or moving laterally in any breeze.) Use thin mic cable, at least until above the ceiling, to minimize its visibility. The mic cable could serve as a third non-weight bearing line to minimize swinging forward and back if needed.

Paracord 550 - Black (http://www.paracordplanet.com/paracord-550-black/?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&attributes=eyI3NTEwIjoiMTkxMiJ9&gclid=CI-Y8OrzydECFZyCswodn44M5w)

Another easy option for hanging microphones- http://www.acebackstage.com/abc_downloads/ABCI_SLUG.pdf

--Ben

Nice and simple product.

If you didn't want to use the mic cable itself to hang the slug the way it's originally designed, you could easily drill a pilot hole in the Delrin and add a screw eye or a screw hook for additional rigging options.

Either way it's certainly fewer pieces and non-reflective black too.