Hi Anna,

The DM-50 in my opinion is better than the on camera mic, but not as good as something like the Sennheiser ME66. I have the DM50, when it is in teh shotgun setting it picks up alot less ambient noise than the on camera mic.

A B/W viewfinder (the CRT type, not LCD) I think it costs more and surely consumes more power - not good for thouse economic camcorders. This is also why we have a fire by wire focus ring (and zoom ring in other cameras) and not a mechanical one.

My viewfinder and also the LCD screen are oversaturated and redish... Does not help me with the manual WB!

fwiw...

Hey guys. I just got to play with my spanky new GL2 a bit and I was wondering if any of you guys keep a written shot log to notate different shots, subjects, etc.

I always do this when shooting stills and will probably continue for video. Just wondering if any of you fine folks have devised other systems to do this type of thing.

Have a day,
Michael

I am wondering if I should be concerned that Premeire opens projects at 29.97 and I shoot at 30/60 frames per second. Should I always change the project settings to make these match when i go into editing.. say to 30fps instead of 29.97? Does this cause problems in the long run. What is the story with this difference and does it matter? Coudl this be why i cannot see the output when i run it back to tape?

NTSC is 29.97 frames per second, but broken up as fields. It's just that 30 sounds simpler.

ok' so what im capturing from my gl2 is interlaced video if i have my project set at 29.97?? Is this correct? SO if i put it to 30 fps in the project then import... then it wont be interlaced? Im not sure what is what and when i get interlaced or not. I am realy confused to when i get interlaced video "by choice" and when i bring video in as as frames and have to deinterlace it by setting it to lower field or upper to get rid of the jaggy steping of interlaced video.

Very simply, am i capturing NTSE interlaced video and working on it when i bring it in? HELP, im confused bigtime'

Michael,
If I'm shooting something structured and planned then yes, I will keep track of camera settings. Also, when taking test shots of tricky scenes I'll often slate various settings, making it easier to compare clips on edit previews.

But, in general, keeping track of camera settings is an excellent learning aid for getting the hang of cause and effect with any camera, whether still, video or film. As someone once said to me, "If you don't know how to get there what's the difference where you are?".

Keep logging and reviewing. Consider slating for convenience.

I definitely should, lol, will probably do it next production.

Don't worry about interlaced versus frames. If you capture
interlaced it will stay interlaced until you either tell Premier to
de-interlace it your export it de-interlaced. As Frank said,
the 30 is just easier talk. Remember that fields are half a frame.
So you have shot at 59,94 fields per second which is exactly
29,97 fps (frame per second). So no worries!

Hi All:

I went for the Century Optics 2x from B&H. Thanks for all your past comments on tele-converters.

I'm planning on taking video of mostly birds with 2x and posting the mini-clips on my website plus watch on TV. Might also do a 30 minute video and copy to VHS tape to send out to a few people. Based on my use for 2x do you recommend shooting in Normal or Frame mode?

I did a search on wildlife, nature, etc... but did not find what might be the best mode for web and vhs tape. I thought I remember seeing someone mention that normal mode would allow you to see more detail of the birds.

I did notice after screwing the 2x on the GL2 that when looking through the viewfinder it looked like viewing into a circle. Once I zoomed out to maybe 5x (time 2) really 10x now, the circle disappeared. The 2x lens if heavy but my large battery pack on the back sort of balances it off a little.

Thanks.

Steve

Is there anyway to save the setting so I don't have to press it everytime I turn on the camera? It's not that I'm too lazy to keep pressing the button, but I am just wondering if there is a way to save me one second of my life.

About 99.9% of the time I film in manual focus, so I would like to have it on at all times.

Thank you very much,
Ryan Krga

Instead of turning the camera off you could switch it to "Lock". It's not a good idea to leave it that way indefinitely but you can certainly use this method while shooting throughout a day.

I was just thinking that right after I posted, stupid me.

I finally got the chance to shoot in a perfectly lighted area at night tonight and wow, the GL2's quality is speechless. The only problem is that I zoomed in and for some reason it went out of focus, then I noticed that the manual focus was off.

Hello. I posted nearly the same thread/question in the PDX10 section as well, but hadn't heard from anybody with GL2 experience. I'm admittedly new around here, and so far I haven't found any posts that answer some of questions so I thought I'd venture forth.

At this point I've narrowed down my purchase options to a GL2 or PDX10, and am leaning towards the PDX10, except for a few concerns. I confess to being a Canon lover (from my AE1 days to Elan, to my digital G3) so I'd previously been set on the GL2, but as a former editor, the DV Cam of the PDX10 is appealing, as is its 16 x 9. But I've been put off by the threads I've read (around here as well as at Apple's FCP site) that mention the PDX10 being poor in low light (not good when I'll be shooting things like a night grunion run). Does anyone have any experience with both cameras? The GL2 seems to have its low light issues as well. Has anyone had any real success with the GL2 in, say, moonlight? Are there any options to punch up that capability beyond hauling out the lights? (Forgive me if this is a no brainer question... I'm new to this end of the production line.) I like the size of the GL2 over the PDX10.

I'm ready to plunk down my money, but these issues have been hanging me up. Well, these and the hard time I've been having getting my hands on an actual PDX10 to check out how it feels to me. But any and all feedback would be very appreciated.

My hope is, down the line, for whicheve I select to become my B cam, and shell out for the XL2 when it hits later this year. But that will depend entirely on how my present efforts pan out, so for now, I need the best I can come up with at the start. So much to buy, and so little money!

Thanks in advance,
Marcia

For the web you might want frame mode (that way it is deinterlaced and better for computer monitors). If you might want to extract stills then use frame mode. Otherwise, and especially for video, use movie mode. The best way to find out what works for you is trial and error.

Some tips on the teleconverter -
1) You were experiencing what is known as vignetting. As you found out, it goes away once you get zoomed in far enough.

2) Finding birds with the teleconverter on can be a bit&*. You will likely have to zoom out, find the bird, then zoom in. This is a time when I REALLY wish zoom and focus were on the lens rather than just focus.

3) Tripod use is a must. Moreover, ANY movement around the tripod will be transmitted to the camera even with the stabilizer on. So, make sure you run the video for a few seconds before and after the footage you want until you can get your hands away from the camera. The heavier the tripod probably the better. One thing to watch out for is being set up on a boardwalk. People walking on the boardwalk transmit vibration through the wood, through the tipod and you get minor camera shake (carbon fiber might be better here).

4) It is tempting to stay zoomed in tight on the bird or just part of the bird. This is what I call the Questar view. On the other hand, following the bird becomes more difficult then. Consider backing off a bit on the zoom, the bird will still be impressive even if it isn't just its head.

5) Manual focus will serve you better than autofocus.

6) Consider heading out to the local zoo for practice. You will quickly learn that bird feeders are your friend if you want good, long shots with the teleconverter on.

Good luck.

What are and do I need the computer s/w on Canon's site? Here's the link:

http://www.canondv.com/downloads/camcorder_software.html

There's a driver section for the GL2.

once in a while it's just refusing to focus, in perfect light! I don't know why.
OK, maybe I know: the UV filter gets in the macro focus range. Maybe a litle dust on the UV and the bright light just "good" enough to show the dust... I'm not sure.

Hi Jeff:

Very helpful information!

I was down at the Plum Island National Wildlife Refuge in Newburyport, MA Sunday morning testing out the 2x. I found
that it opens up a whole new world of shots that I would never consider taking before because of the distance. Most of the birds I shot were ducks or the larger shore birds (Greater Yellow legs, etc..) at a distance using the tripod.

I did notice the camera shake as you push the record button and then put it back in pause mode.

I have also been experimenting with frame and normal mode in with the backyard birds. I'll check out the manual focus.

I took the 2x off when we walked through the tall tree section on the boardwalk when looking for warblers and needing quick reaction time. In the future I'll plan on just staying in one spot with the 2x and tripod and see what I can get for the smaller birds.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks!

Steve

I think those drivers are needed when you want to extract
photos from the memorycard on the camera (if you stored them
there)

Thanx Rob - Yeah, guess so.

Nice dark gray on the japan model, ha?

www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/dv/data/2002_xv2.html

www.dvworld.com.tw/product/xv2/

www.soundweb-asia.com/products_test/canon_xv2/page_1.htm

www.canon.com/camera-museum/tech/report/200209/report.html

Thanks, Cosmin. Yes, it seems like that only the GL2 for the Japanese market is a different color. Where in Romania do you live?

It looks better in dark gray!

I'm in Timisoara.

I prefer this color to the standard they offer in the states and in Europe. Why don't they offer it every where else?

is there anyway to turn the auto-standby/automatic turn-off option off on the GL1. and if not...when it starts to beep before it turns off what do I do to keep it from turning off. as far as I know right now the only way to stop it is press the record button.

I selected the custom key to "STOP" video. So when I need to keep the camcorder on stand by I push the custom key and the video part of the camcorder stops. The rest of the camcorder works.
There is something in the meniu where you can chose if you want the camera to switch off or STOP the video part. I just don't remeber where you can find that...

thanks

I just upgraded from a JVC single chipper to the GL1. So far I love the cam...the overall picture quality is great. Question I have...I mostly do skateboarding films and I was wondering if I should shoot in auto mode or manual mode? Now I don't know much about manual with a camcorder but I have been taking digital stills with a Nikon D100 for sometime now. So...the concept of apeture, shutter speed, and their relationship means something to me. So am I better off filming my skating in Auto or can I get a better picture using Manual? thanks

It depends on how you are shooting. If you are shooting from a stationary position then manual is probably better. If you are shooting from your board then AV or TV mode is probably the go as as you move your exposure conditions change. Generally, I stay well away from auto/green box modes as I always seem to end up with home video looking footage.

One other thing you want for shooting skating is a wide angle or fisheye adapter. If you go with a fisheye, get a good one that gives you a full frame, not one that gives you the terible circle image.

I'm going to be ordering a GL2 from Zotz this weekend. I am planning on trying to shoot an hour long shot of a sunset or sunrise. I would then speed this up to a fast timelapse in post. My concern is how this is possible without damaging the CCD on the camera. The only totally safe option I have come up with is the physically extensive method of doing frame captures every 30-60 seconds and using cardboard or something to cover the lense in between.

Can this be safely done with UV and ND filters? Seems like it have been done before with some type of camera in even more light that near dust or dawn, when you see time lapse of the sun crossing the frame with clouds moving by.

I shot with the Gl2 for a few days while my Gl1 was getting repaired. It looks like I'll have to get the Gl2 since they are going to swap them since the Gl1 is under the lemon clause and it is the only three chip cam they have to replace it. The problem is from the few days that I used the Gl2 it seems like a downgrade.

When shooting in subjects without the sun behind me it was very difficult to get the lighting correct. The subjects always were too bright or too dark using the auto exposure shift and the exposure button. With the Gl1 I usually was able to get the proper lighting by keeping the ae on +.5 and putting the exposure on about +1 to +5 depending on where the sun was. Is there a way to stay in auto focus and have good lighting with the Gl2? Some of the problem may be with the skin tones as discussed before but since I'm a little color blind it's hard for me to know.

The viewfinder is bad. The field of vision is even less than the Gl1. Putting the bigger one on helped some but it is still smaller vertically.

On the positive it is a little lighter and the picture quality would be a little better if I can get the lighting fixed.

Will Canon put out a Gl3 this year or wait another year or so?

Thanks,
Tony

There is already a thread on this (http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9880).

I'm closing this one. Please continue the discussion there.
Thanks.

Tony,
I shot with a GL1 for quite some time until getting a GL2 last year. I can say that the GL2 is certainly no downgrade; quite the contrary. But I will also say that it's also not the same camera as the GL1. Like any new camera it just takes some dedicated practice to learn its nuances and its best uses. Start with the factory-default settings and work your way through all of the new tweaks available. I would leave the ae setting at neutral for now, and most of the time.

I have not heard of any plans for a successor to the GL2 in the immediate future.

The GL2 is an upgrade from the GL1. There are more exposure options, the focus ring is more sensitive and there are audio meters and level controls for both channels. Unless you were wearing headphones all the time, there was no way of knowing if you were recording audio with the GL1.
Bob

Anyone know if the 540EZ flash will work on the GL2?

I think the camera requires the EX series. The EZ series is for older EOS cameras. It will not work, to the best of my knowledge.

I bought GL-2 partially for the Character Recording capability on this camera. But so far I have not able to record "only" the date/time onto it. Actually I could record other information (useless to me) but date/time. Will anyone shed some light on me. What am I missing here?
Thanks in advance.

Max,
See this thread (http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7393). I think you'll find it helpful.

I am using an external mic without Canon's adapter (plugged right in to the port on the side). The manual does not address this (I guess to sell more adapters) and I can't get the on board mic to shut off when I'm using my shot gun.

Can anyone tell me how to shut off the onboard mic?

Alex,

As soon as you plug a mic in the jack, it should disconnect (physically I beleive) the built in mic. If that is not happening, service is indicated! Anything that you do using menus would affect both mics equally so there would be no way to isolate the on camera mic.

When you use an external mic (usually mono) you would expect to only see one channel of audio on the VU meters. Thats a pretty good indication that the external plug is connected correctly. If you still have both channels indicating (unless your mono mic is wired to both left and right) then I suspect your external mic may not even be providing an input to the camera.

This may have been covered before, but does anyone have a good recommendation for a wireless handheld mic for my GL2? Since the GL2 is "stereo" can the camera receive 2 wireless signals? Also, nobody seems to know which type of headphones works best with the GL2 - impedence etc?

Hello Joseph,
You'll often see members remarking that they have had good experiences with Sennheiser's Evolution systems. Audio-Technica also has an excellent system, their U100 series (http://audiotechnica.com/guide/wireless/u100.html), that also features a handheld mic plug-on modulre. (I have the system but not the module for the handheld mic.)

Regarding headphones, I've been a big fan of the Sony MDR-7506's and their slightly more compact MDR-7505's.

Hi Guy's great forum!
Me and my partner have been creating some stopmotion animation for a short film we are making using the xm2. So far the cameras performance rocks. We only had a one chip mini dv camera before( no comparison at all) We have been shooting directly into premiere via fire wire and also previewing to another computer via svideo for our low res animation loop.

Everything was going great until I stepped on the firewire cable and crunch!......The camera was fixed strongly on the tripod and the computer was siting on the table directly behind it. I bent the firewire socket on the back of our xm2 aswell as the fire wire cable aswell as the firewire card in the computer! I can tell you I was not a happy camper and neither was my parner when she returned back.

(We have only had the camera for two weeks and we both love it .........so it took us a while to come to grips with our first xm2 nightmare)

So......anyway luckily it still holds in and it still works by it's self but it is very very loose.

Our solution to anyone out there doing any filming with cables running off your xm2 or any camera for that matter...... is to gaffa tape everything to the tripod arm and don't risk any cables being ripped out of their sockets. This is what we will do for evey shot from now on.

Writing this down has given me a head ache!

Anyone else had similar or worse experiances.....might make me feel better.


Miles

hi guy's
Just wondering if anyone can tell me if my mic sony(ecm-ms957) will fit in the ma-300 adaptor? In the manual it says that the ma-300 can take a 25mm wide mic.......the sony is 32mm wide....but I was hopeing that I could maybe replace the screw with a longer one so it could take any extra thickness? Would thuis be possible?

Any answers would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Miles

Thanks a lot, Ken. I was able to get time/date. Now the second....

GOD NO!
Why should you feel better?!
You did a bad thing! You must suffer! :-)

Any pics of the loose socket on the back the xm2?
Also, could you run some more tests and tell us how much can the xm2 take?
:lol

Please don't mind me....

You're right, the EZ series will not work. Just for grins I tried my 540EZ on my new GL2 and no luck. Oh well.

I also use the Sony MDR-7506. When I'm working with them on my wife can yell and I can't hear her. Meantime I'm getting great clarity. They even allowed me to hear the faint zoom motor noise on my GL2 that was giving me a problem before I solved the problem.

In the low cost arena, consider the Azden WD-series of VHF wireless mics.

YOu can conenct two wireless receivers to the GL1/2 if you use a "Y" adapter, available ar Radio Shack and other fine audio accessory sources.